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The Official Pioneer 9G Kuro Settings/Issues Thread - Page 357

post #10681 of 10764
$600 plus the tax man got his cut. I am so happy. I have wanted one of these for awhile and it was just dumb luck that I even stopped at this Bestbuy let alone them even having it. Bezel is scratched but the screen is in great shape. Updated the firmware and have been enjoying the hell out of it.
post #10682 of 10764
Cool thanks for the info
post #10683 of 10764
Im having a problem with with 500m. I hope Im posting this in the right place if not please let me know. The picture on my Kuro isn't black anymore and really hasn't been for while. It's really a dark grey. It used to be pitch black. We got it back in 2010 or 2011. It kind of just happened and got worse over time. I know the HDMI 6 port is messed up because I was using it and it all of sudden started motion blur stuttering while watching anything. I changed it to port 5 and It's way better. I've tried bypassing the receiver, going directly from different bluray players and even switched out the power cable. Nothing changes it. I've been using settings from d-nice and even tried others which some made a very slight difference but I don't know if it was of a color thing then anything else. I'very tried turning different settings on and off and nothing seems to be working. Anyone have any ideas as to could be causing the issue? I forgot. I don't know if this is normal but pretty much since the beginning every so often the screen will do this kind of weird effect like paint is thrown and running down it. It happens pretty quick but I didn't know if anyone's has seen that. Also when I first got it the screen would start out like a bright grey then change quickly to a darker grey then go down to black. It doesn't go down the third time to black It's only doing the first two. If any of that makes sense. Thanks guy.
post #10684 of 10764
Something doesn't sound right thats for sure - when you described something like paint running down it is it one colour ?
post #10685 of 10764
Quote:
Originally Posted by snsguy View Post

"every so often the screen will do this kind of weird effect like paint is thrown and running down it.
This is normal. The people in the KRP and 141 threads have more experience with monitors. I don't know if they all follow this thread.
post #10686 of 10764
Quote:
Originally Posted by snsguy View Post

Im having a problem with with 500m. I hope Im posting this in the right place if not please let me know. The picture on my Kuro isn't black anymore and really hasn't been for while. It's really a dark grey. It used to be pitch black. We got it back in 2010 or 2011. It kind of just happened and got worse over time. I know the HDMI 6 port is messed up because I was using it and it all of sudden started motion blur stuttering while watching anything. I changed it to port 5 and It's way better. I've tried bypassing the receiver, going directly from different bluray players and even switched out the power cable. Nothing changes it. I've been using settings from d-nice and even tried others which some made a very slight difference but I don't know if it was of a color thing then anything else. I'very tried turning different settings on and off and nothing seems to be working. Anyone have any ideas as to could be causing the issue? I forgot. I don't know if this is normal but pretty much since the beginning every so often the screen will do this kind of weird effect like paint is thrown and running down it. It happens pretty quick but I didn't know if anyone's has seen that. Also when I first got it the screen would start out like a bright grey then change quickly to a darker grey then go down to black. It doesn't go down the third time to black It's only doing the first two. If any of that makes sense. Thanks guy.

For the picture stuttering issue, I assume the issue you are having is with cable?
I found my Pro-111 stuttered with a cable source but not Blu ray, when the Pure Cinema Film Mode was set to "advance", and was resolved by setting it to "off".
post #10687 of 10764
Stu03- It's darker in color. More black then anything else.

Bodosom.- Thanks for letting me know. That sets my mind at ease with that issue.

Dsskid - Nope not the cable. Already tried switching it out. It only happens in port 6. Port 5 doesn't do the motion blur stuttering. All settings are the same on both. My players settings are all the same. I did notice that the " black levels", which are really dark grey right now, on port 5 gets slightly brighter and are slightly more grey even with them being on the exact same settings as port 6. So to compensate I turn the brightness down a notch. I have tried turning things down such as brightness to see if it will make it darker and the content is but the dark grey doesn't get any blacker.

Its really frustrating me because its always there. It's very distracting. I can't watch a movie in complete darkness.
post #10688 of 10764
Quote:
Originally Posted by snsguy View Post

I did notice that the " black levels", which are really dark grey right now,
Normally the first thing to check on monitors is colorspace. Ideally you feed a 1% stimulus and try each colorspace (other than Auto). Three of them will be obviously wrong.
post #10689 of 10764
Quote:
Originally Posted by bodosom View Post

Normally the first thing to check on monitors is colorspace. Ideally you feed a 1% stimulus and try each colorspace (other than Auto). Three of them will be obviously wrong.

Do you mean color management? I have color space set on 2. If your referring to under the service menu I don't have the software. I want to get it but haven't been able to yet. I don't know much when it comes to stimulus and such. I do want to learn about that stuff though.
post #10690 of 10764
Quote:
Originally Posted by snsguy View Post

Stu03- It's darker in color. More black then anything else.

Bodosom.- Thanks for letting me know. That sets my mind at ease with that issue.

Dsskid - Nope not the cable. Already tried switching it out. It only happens in port 6. Port 5 doesn't do the motion blur stuttering. All settings are the same on both. My players settings are all the same. I did notice that the " black levels", which are really dark grey right now, on port 5 gets slightly brighter and are slightly more grey even with them being on the exact same settings as port 6. So to compensate I turn the brightness down a notch. I have tried turning things down such as brightness to see if it will make it darker and the content is but the dark grey doesn't get any blacker.

Its really frustrating me because its always there. It's very distracting. I can't watch a movie in complete darkness.

The only thing i can think of thinking back is when switching on the Kuro when it starts at darkish grey it had like black ink running down in the middle - but only for a split second before it went normal again and went into it's three stage drop in MLL before it gets to it's idling MLL.

It happened on my first 500A - but not the second - and it doesn't happen with the 500M either.

Presumably they are set up/driven/voltages differently and varies from panel to panel but yeah it's pretty normal afaict.

Lol at first I thought you meant perhaps all the colours of the rainbow smile.gif
post #10691 of 10764
Quote:
Originally Posted by snsguy View Post

Do you mean color management? I have color space set on 2. If your referring to under the service menu I don't have the software. I want to get it but haven't been able to yet. I don't know much when it comes to stimulus and such. I do want to learn about that stuff though.

Rather confusingly there are two 'colour space' settings. The one you are referring to is in the Pro Adjust sub menu and sets the size of the colour gamut, where 1 is native (wide) and 2 is normal. The is another setting in the Input section where the signal colour space can be set to either Auto, RGB(16-235), RGB(0-255), YUV422 or YUV444. This setting normally works ok on Auto, but I believe that the Monitors have an issue with incorrectly identifying the correct RGB colour space, which can give really elevated black levels and other issues, that's what you were being asked to test earlier.
Regards, Mike.
post #10692 of 10764
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu03 View Post

The only thing i can think of thinking back is when switching on the Kuro when it starts at darkish grey it had like black ink running down in the middle - but only for a split second before it went normal again and went into it's three stage drop in MLL before it gets to it's idling MLL.

It happened on my first 500A - but not the second - and it doesn't happen with the 500M either.

Presumably they are set up/driven/voltages differently and varies from panel to panel but yeah it's pretty normal afaict.

Lol at first I thought you meant perhaps all the colours of the rainbow smile.gif

You're seeing what I used to see. A drop down of the MLL a total of three times. Mine used to do that. Now it is only doing it twice. Why would it stop at the second and not continue to the third. That seems to wherethe issue lies.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AV_mike View Post

Rather confusingly there are two 'colour space' settings. The one you are referring to is in the Pro Adjust sub menu and sets the size of the colour gamut, where 1 is native (wide) and 2 is normal. The is another setting in the Input section where the signal colour space can be set to either Auto, RGB(16-235), RGB(0-255), YUV422 or YUV444. This setting normally works ok on Auto, but I believe that the Monitors have an issue with incorrectly identifying the correct RGB colour space, which can give really elevated black levels and other issues, that's what you were being asked to test earlier.
Regards, Mike.

Thanks for clarifying that for me. I have it set to 444. Thanks for the help guys. Keep it coming. I really want to get this figured out. It's driving me crazy. It doesn't matter how I can connect anything the 3 drop to the island MLL isn't happening anymore. I think if I can figure out why it stopped doing that it might at least let me know if there is anything that can be done to fix it. The dark grey is killing me.
Edited by snsguy - 9/27/13 at 11:02am
post #10693 of 10764
I've owned the Elite Kuro Pro-111FD for over 4 years. This set has recently exhibited a strange problem. A few months ago while watching a movie from a Sony BDP-S380 via HDMI, an onscreen alert appeared stating that there was a short in the speakers (I've never used the speakers or hooked anything up to the terminals) and within a few seconds,the screen went blank and the blue LED started flashing. I powered off the set via the remote and the red standby LED lit momentarily and then switched back to the blue and it kept flashing. This went on for sometime and then eventually,it settled back to normal. A short time later,it happened again,with the same results.

Since the Sony player was new,I suspected the Sony to be the source of the problem. I've owned an OPPO BDP-93 prior to the Sony and I never encountered this issue. Thinking the Sony was problem via HDMI, I removed the HDMI cable used component cables and the set never had the issue. The Sony only displays 480i over component, so I hooked it back up with the HDMI. Again, problem came back. Moved HDMI cable to another input with no problems (but I hadn't watched anything for a good period of time) .

I just picked up a used OPPO BDP-95 and within a week, the problem came back. Couldn't tell if the onscreen alert stating a short in the speakers message appeared because I was on a different input. I shut down the power by operating the switch on the back, by removing the power cable and the remote. Each time, the power off (standby) red LED would light briefly and then it cycled to power on with the blue LED flashing. Eventually,it settled back down and would start working normal again.

The only other piece that has been the same is the HDMI cable. It has been moved to different inputs and they've all exhibited these anomalies. I'm suspecting the cable as the source of the problem, but I don't have another one on hand to test that.

Watching from the cable box via the component input or TV direct is fine,never a shutdown.

I'm just curios if anyone who owns this series of sets have had a similar or same problem.
post #10694 of 10764
Quote:
Originally Posted by DuaneS View Post

I've owned the Elite Kuro Pro-111FD for over 4 years. This set has recently exhibited a strange problem. A few months ago while watching a movie from a Sony BDP-S380 via HDMI, an onscreen alert appeared stating that there was a short in the speakers (I've never used the speakers or hooked anything up to the terminals) and within a few seconds,the screen went blank and the blue LED started flashing. I powered off the set via the remote and the red standby LED lit momentarily and then switched back to the blue and it kept flashing. This went on for sometime and then eventually,it settled back to normal. A short time later,it happened again,with the same results.

Since the Sony player was new,I suspected the Sony to be the source of the problem. I've owned an OPPO BDP-93 prior to the Sony and I never encountered this issue. Thinking the Sony was problem via HDMI, I removed the HDMI cable used component cables and the set never had the issue. The Sony only displays 480i over component, so I hooked it back up with the HDMI. Again, problem came back. Moved HDMI cable to another input with no problems (but I hadn't watched anything for a good period of time) .

I just picked up a used OPPO BDP-95 and within a week, the problem came back. Couldn't tell if the onscreen alert stating a short in the speakers message appeared because I was on a different input. I shut down the power by operating the switch on the back, by removing the power cable and the remote. Each time, the power off (standby) red LED would light briefly and then it cycled to power on with the blue LED flashing. Eventually,it settled back down and would start working normal again.

The only other piece that has been the same is the HDMI cable. It has been moved to different inputs and they've all exhibited these anomalies. I'm suspecting the cable as the source of the problem, but I don't have another one on hand to test that.

Watching from the cable box via the component input or TV direct is fine,never a shutdown.

I'm just curios if anyone who owns this series of sets have had a similar or same problem.

I've owned my Kuro Pro-111FD since June of 2009 and have not observed what you're describing. Have you considered just hooking up the speakers to see if it goes away?
post #10695 of 10764
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drkseid View Post

Got Lucky at local Bestbuy last night and found a Kuro PDP5020FD on display for $1700. After asking the guy if they would accept between 500 and 600 for it. I walked out the door with it for 600. My question is how do I know how many hours are on the TV. Thanks

How did i miss this post. I didn't even know BB still had display models. My BB's was void of any kuros since about 2010. I think i might check again. tongue.gif

Since it's a display model i'm guessing it has to have over 5000 hours if it was on 13 hours a day. But it depends. If you want to check it yourself you're going to either need the service remote or control cal.

htwaits, any update on your kuro?
post #10696 of 10764
Quote:
Originally Posted by saprano View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Drkseid View Post

htwaits, any update on your kuro?
The new main board is installed and working. I've reentered UMR's (Jeff Meier) user settings, but didn't go into the service mode to do anything stupid. I'm not sure about getting it calibrated again. So far so good.

I may have been squeezed by the repair company for $95 over what was covered by the extended warranty. At the last minute, they refused to remove the set from the wall unless they brought their own extra person. It was an "insurance" issue that didn't come up when they did their bid. Since I couldn't help, I would have had to have two people here for a morning to dismount and mount the set and avoid the extra $95. I wimped out. wink.gif
post #10697 of 10764
Oh, man they got you for $95? I would of told them the two people that's coming to help will take hours to get here. Do you mind waiting? Haha.

At least the TV is fixed. smile.gif
post #10698 of 10764
Quote:
Originally Posted by saprano View Post

Oh, man they got you for $95? I would of told them the two people that's coming to help will take hours to get here. Do you mind waiting? Haha.
Not exactly. I had to arrange for two people before the work was scheduled, or pay for them to send two technicians. What they wouldn't do is send one technician and have someone help the technician move the set. The set is working fine, and look good. We've mostly watched NFL and NHL games and some TV episodes from disks. We don't seem to have time for many movies this time of the year. wink.gif
post #10699 of 10764
Hello Members,


I would like to see if somebody could help me with a problem with my Pioneer KRP-500A (Europe)


My situation:

Yesterday i upgraded to the last FW version that is on the official Dutch Pioneer website. This is the version 0908-0601



How i did it:

1) Used an original (provided with the Kuro) Pioneer 1GB usb stick (clean format to fat)

2) I checked to see if the file size was correct once on the computer and USB stick

3) Powered up the tv and media receiver of the Kuro

4) Disconnected the power cord from the receiver

5) Installed the usb stick in the front usb port on the front of the receiver

6) Power cord connected again

7) Blinking correct leds (red and blue flashing , en orange was on)

8) Once the orange led stopped (waited a little more but nothing happend any more with the orange led) i disconnected the power cord again and disconnected the usb stick.

9) Power cord connected again and after that i used the remote to start up the tv. After that the message saying : update completed.


The problems:


The tv started up just fine but once in the home menu i found out that options like : Channels, favorites, input , EPG and home gallery were grey colored (usual white) and can't be selected anymore.

The same story for system settings and the button tools on the remote don´t work anymore.

Picture and sound settings are normal and can be adjusted. The Kuro also remembered my previous picture and sound settings from the firmware before.




What i have tried:


Disconnecting both power cords for one night. Result : no effect


I tried to intall the same firmware again and downloaded it again from the site. This time not on a windows computer but on a Mac pro. Result : The Kuro orange led blinks two times meaning no need to upgrade.


I tried to downgrade the firmware but no luck. The same two blinking orange led.



Is there anybody who know's about this problem and could help me?


Thanks in advance !!



My hardware info : 0x353

: KRP-500P/WYS5
post #10700 of 10764
Hi guys, I'm having an issue that I was hoping someone could help with. I have a 9g Kuro E-Lite, and am wanting to use my XBOX 360 and PS3 in RGB Full mode for the expanded grayscale, but when I set the Kuro HDMI color mode to 4 (0-255), the screen just turns pink/magenta, and I can't seem to figure out why. The systems are set correctly, so the TV should be receiving a 0-255 signal, so I don't get it. Also, I am using D-Nice's settings for the ISFccc modes, so will those settings still provide a correctly calibrated picture in this mode (assuming I can get it to work correctly)?

EDIT: It appears that the issue may possibly be that my Arcam AVR400 receiver won't properly pass a 0-255 signal/won't properly interface with the Kuro when it's set to color-4 (0-255). I am basing this on the fact that if I cut the receiver off, the pink screen goes back to being black (that particular input on the TV is connected to the video-out on my receiver), which would imply that despite being set to "bypass" in the video output section of the settings menu, some type of processing is occurring that is causing a problems. Anyone have any thoughts on why this would be occuring?
Edited by Traxion - 10/30/13 at 8:13pm
post #10701 of 10764
Traxion, as a test, is it easy for you to connect the Xbox or PS3 directly to the TV?
post #10702 of 10764
Quote:
Originally Posted by jiarenbaby View Post

Is it possible to get a true D65 gray scale with just user adjustments? If so, I'm tickled.
qdXa

Positively !!
post #10703 of 10764
Yeah, I'll get back there and test it later to be sure, but I'm fairly certain that's the issue. My concern at this point is really more about my calibration; since D-Nice's settings are probably dialed in for a YCbCr / 16-235 grayscale, how will switching to a 0-255 grayscale impact this? I'm assuming I would need to have the display custom calibrated on a separate input dedicated to my game systems if I wanted to use the 0-255 range, but wanted to check first before venturing down that road. Assuming I am on the right track so far, would it even be worth it to bother with all of this? Are there tangible benefits to be had by switching to the expanded grayscale that 0-255 offers for gaming, or is the difference so small that I'm better off just "leaving well enough alone?"
post #10704 of 10764
ok this is it smile.gif
im going to sell my new Sony 55" W900A for a PDP-LX5090
that tv has been the dream tv since it was released but the price was just to high at that point.

instead of reading all the 357 pages i just ask here

What brightness level can i expect from the LX5090?
120cd/m2 should be no problem right,but can it go higher and still contain the same pure blacks?
post #10705 of 10764
I would suggest you go to the calibration thread and look at a few reports for calibrations done by someone with a good reputation. They will give you a good idea of what to expect for output while maintaining the black levels.
post #10706 of 10764
Quote:
Originally Posted by smurraybhm View Post

I would suggest you go to the calibration thread and look at a few reports for calibrations done by someone with a good reputation. They will give you a good idea of what to expect for output while maintaining the black levels.

will do that
thanks
post #10707 of 10764
ok before i go and check it out i have one more question.

my Sony W9 looks completley black even in daylight with strong sunlight
how is the Antiglare filter on the PDP-LX5090 ?

in some pictures of the Kuro in strong ambientlight the screen looks totally washed out.
black that supposed to be black suddenly is gray and the meaning of KURO is dead imho.
also the dynamic range is lost

a tv must look good even in daylight viewing
it doesnt matter of it can deliver true blacks with 0 lightleak when the screen itself doesnt look black..

i belive it has happend alot with the antiglare filters in recent years for the better.

so how bad is the Kuro and at what light does the display start to look gray?
post #10708 of 10764
Are you from the UK presumably talking about the LX5090 ?...

Try not to go by too much posted images online, every plasma (and i mean every plasma) looks grey at times in posted images. Tbere are dozens of images where they look black and dozens where they do not.

You would be better off waiting until you get it home to make a decision - most people are happy with the filters on the non KRP 's.

But if not you would be better sticking with the Sony W9.
post #10709 of 10764
I am trying to get OTA on my Kuro and I can't pick up any channels. I have it set to "air" and do a DTV scan and nothing shows up. I get this error message when I try to put in channels.

"this is an invalid operation because there is no channel table in dtv".

I have a Mohu leaf and I'm less than 15mi away from most transmitters, less than 5 from a couple, and I am picking up nothing at all. Please help!
post #10710 of 10764
There was a firmware update for 9G non-elite displays that was related specifically to OTA. I never applied it since when I did use an antenna I ran it through my directv receiver. Just throwing that out.
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