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The Official Pioneer 9G Kuro Settings/Issues Thread - Page 358

post #10711 of 10771
I tried it, still no go.
post #10712 of 10771
Quote:
Originally Posted by pier0188 View Post

I tried it, still no go.


have you tested the line? try connecting another device that uses an antenna to the same line on the set now and see if you get reception.

post #10713 of 10771

Hi D-Nice,

 

I'm sure you get 100's of these questions, but as a brand new PRO-101fd owner, I just wanted to know if the 500M settings are OK to use for my 101fd?  If I'm not mistaken, the 101fd is the best consumer display ever made.  Thanks so much!  BTW - I bought the display used so I know it already has over 1000 hrs on it.

post #10714 of 10771
Thats a ready made/nicely run in Kuro right there smile.gif

My 500M is over 700hrs now and from what i can tell it starting to settle in now properly.

Be no harm in trying the 500M setting's on the 101 although nothing will ever be ideal as no two plasmas of the same model are alike exactly.

I find it strange that a display like the 101 can be classed as "consumer display" as it hands down beats other consumer plasma displays, and behaves more like a professional display. The 500M is classed by Pioneer as an industrial display, and shares virtually the same parts as the 101 except for two less HDMI's and slightly different audio circuitry.

Pioneer had strange marketing strategy... The 101's and 141fd must have been classed as the industrial monitors for the "consumer class" eek.gif

'Turbe'... If you are reading, except for the ISF not being activated on the American KRP's until after your updates - what after Pure mode calibration and full ISF calibration would have been the difference between the two displays however slight out of interest ?
post #10715 of 10771
Signature Elites / KRP-M - really no significance difference from a calibrated pq point of view.

The KRP-M's in NA were originally for the custom installer market, not any retail. Of course that changed after Pioneer's decision to exit.

The Elites (both the TV's and Monitors) were for Pioneer's authorized dealers.
post #10716 of 10771
Quote:
Originally Posted by turbe View Post

Signature Elites / KRP-M - really no significance difference from a calibrated pq point of view.

The KRP-M's in NA were originally for the custom installer market, not any retail. Of course that changed after Pioneer's decision to exit.

The Elites (both the TV's and Monitors) were for Pioneer's authorized dealers.

Thanks for the reply... Makes sense originally - custom install market who presumably didn't need the extra HDMI's etc... So what was with the no ISF (originally) for the NA KRPM custom install market... Didn't Pioneer think absolutely anyone buying wouldn't ever want the extra controls ?

Anyway i love my KRP but it needs a service menu RGB calibration. But i won't attempt it myself as i don't have the necessary equipment. As much as i enjoy tweaking Pure and Movie mode and can most certainly be tweaked 99% in the greyscale department. It had too much blue and green in the low end of the scale and although it can be tweaked out fully by eye there will be stuff further down in there that i can't see with my eyes using the 5 gamma presets and 60 step brightness control. And would love a SM RGB calibration, then i can play and tweak until my hearts content with the AV presets.

My low end RGB' are in the minus twenties approximately -23 ish, in using Pure and Movie and Game modes - in all truth i could probably go further down when using the brightness control to highlight low scale but it looks grey to me as it is and it seems to help the rest of the image including blacks and shadow details etc but don't want to try lowering it further as i don't have any equipment tbh except disks and my eyes.

Is it normal to have low rgb in the minus twenties on the KRP500M's ?

Thanks
post #10717 of 10771

Thanks, Stu03.  I appreciate the quick response!  I got a great deal on the 101fd.  Only $700 and he threw in the stock stand.  I lucked out and am loving this display.  I looked at a Sony 4K yesterday at Best Buy and even my wife was like "your TV looks just as good, maybe better, than the 4K".  She was soooo right.

post #10718 of 10771
Went back to my darkened room lol and anyway on my basic greyscale/brightness control cal i ended up being happy and leaving it there as i doubt i could do much more by eye now with one of the AV presets i was doing with RGB low's at -39 -38 and -41 eek.gif

Thank goodness it has 60 steps brightness/black control for shadows afterwards
Edited by Stu03 - 12/2/13 at 3:23pm
post #10719 of 10771
Quote:
Originally Posted by KuroDummy View Post

Thanks, Stu03.  I appreciate the quick response!  I got a great deal on the 101fd.  Only $700 and he threw in the stock stand.  I lucked out and am loving this display.  I looked at a Sony 4K yesterday at Best Buy and even my wife was like "your TV looks just as good, maybe better, than the 4K".  She was soooo right.

Well 4K (or 8K) is only going to be a stunning requirement when OLED sorts out it's numerous early issues whilst at the same time using that massive resolution.

1080P looks lifelike to me as it is so i'm in no hurry especially as the Kuro comes out of it's deep deep black so well
post #10720 of 10771
Question about the ISF modes. After i unlock them with CC will i be able to change settings using my remote, or do i need to use CC everytime?



I still haven't gotten around to getting CC yet though, unfortunately. I need to get the cables and borrow a laptop. I've been meaning to do it, but the little things of life gets in the way. Eventually though. smile.gif

I'm also going to do what somebody here mentioned and print out the pages to make it easier.

Do the ISF modes drive the panel harder in any way?
post #10721 of 10771
Quote:
Originally Posted by saprano View Post

Question about the ISF modes. After i unlock them with CC will i be able to change settings using my remote, or do i need to use CC everytime?



I still haven't gotten around to getting CC yet though, unfortunately. I need to get the cables and borrow a laptop. I've been meaning to do it, but the little things of life gets in the way. Eventually though. smile.gif

I'm also going to do what somebody here mentioned and print out the pages to make it easier.

Do the ISF modes drive the panel harder in any way?


the ISF modes are activated by controlcal, and the adjustments are made in controlcal. I have not seen any way to adjust the ISF settings from the service menu, and in the user menu any picture settings for the 3 ISF modes will be unavailable. (greyed out)

post #10722 of 10771
Quote:
Originally Posted by vega509 View Post
 


the ISF modes are activated by controlcal, and the adjustments are made in controlcal. I have not seen any way to adjust the ISF settings from the service menu, and in the user menu any picture settings for the 3 ISF modes will be unavailable. (greyed out)

 

I have connected to my PRO-101FD from my computer using an ethernet cable and KuroReader 2.0.  I was able to access the ISF Auto, Day and Night modes.  I have not played with adjusting any of them, but it may be an option for you?  I'm no expert on this stuff, so can't answer any technical questions about KuroReader but jdbimmber is the creator of the software and posts here.

 

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1175615/free-kuroreader-software-for-pioneer-krp-500m-krp-600m-pro-101fd-pro-141fd

 

If you look at Post #2 in the forum link above you will see the information below in the Q&A section:

 

"Q8. How do I create, enable, or adjust ISF Auto, Day, & Night modes using KuroReader?
A8. ISF Tab Instructions (for 101/141, Euro KRP's, and patched NA KRP's only):

1. Select the ISF tab.
2. Select the Input from the drop down list and press the Set button. Do this even if the display is already on that input.
3. Select the ISF Mode (Auto/Day/Night) and press the Set button. (Tip:Try creating Day mode first if you have trouble initializing other modes.) The page should refresh and display your current or the default settings. The display should show the 2 line on-screen ISF information.
4. Change each setting (contrast, brightness, white balance, etc) one at a time and

press the Set button next to the setting after each change. Sometimes the web page will not reflect the change, but the monitor will display that change onscreen. Pressing the Refresh button or pressing the Set button next to an unchanged setting should get things back in sync.
5. When you are done with your changes, press the Save Settings button. The Pioneer display will show the "ISF Calibration Completed" message.
6. To exit the Calibration mode, press the "Exit" or "Exit Without Save" button - KuroReader modifies the behavior of these buttons so they both provide the same functionality. The ISF onscreen display should disappear. If it does not, try turning the display off and on again."

post #10723 of 10771
Quote:
Originally Posted by vega509 View Post


the ISF modes are activated by controlcal, and the adjustments are made in controlcal. I have not seen any way to adjust the ISF settings from the service menu, and in the user menu any picture settings for the 3 ISF modes will be unavailable. (greyed out)

So when I want to play with settings I have hook everything back up with my laptop? That's dumb. It shook be accessible via your remote once you unlock it.
post #10724 of 10771
Quote:
Originally Posted by KuroDummy View Post
 

 

I have connected to my PRO-101FD from my computer using an ethernet cable and KuroReader 2.0.  I was able to access the ISF Auto, Day and Night modes.  I have not played with adjusting any of them, but it may be an option for you?  I'm no expert on this stuff, so can't answer any technical questions about KuroReader but jdbimmber is the creator of the software and posts here.

 

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1175615/free-kuroreader-software-for-pioneer-krp-500m-krp-600m-pro-101fd-pro-141fd

 

If you look at Post #2 in the forum link above you will see the information below in the Q&A section:

 

"Q8. How do I create, enable, or adjust ISF Auto, Day, & Night modes using KuroReader?
A8. ISF Tab Instructions (for 101/141, Euro KRP's, and patched NA KRP's only):

1. Select the ISF tab.
2. Select the Input from the drop down list and press the Set button. Do this even if the display is already on that input.
3. Select the ISF Mode (Auto/Day/Night) and press the Set button. (Tip:Try creating Day mode first if you have trouble initializing other modes.) The page should refresh and display your current or the default settings. The display should show the 2 line on-screen ISF information.
4. Change each setting (contrast, brightness, white balance, etc) one at a time and

press the Set button next to the setting after each change. Sometimes the web page will not reflect the change, but the monitor will display that change onscreen. Pressing the Refresh button or pressing the Set button next to an unchanged setting should get things back in sync.
5. When you are done with your changes, press the Save Settings button. The Pioneer display will show the "ISF Calibration Completed" message.
6. To exit the Calibration mode, press the "Exit" or "Exit Without Save" button - KuroReader modifies the behavior of these buttons so they both provide the same functionality. The ISF onscreen display should disappear. If it does not, try turning the display off and on again."

unfortunately KuroReader does not work on the 151.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by saprano View Post


So when I want to play with settings I have hook everything back up with my laptop? That's dumb. It shook be accessible via your remote once you unlock it.


just for the ISF modes, everything else remains as it is now. I had the same feeling when I got the ISF activated, but once the set was calibrated, I've found no reason to alter any of the settings. I set ISF Day to output 49fl and ISF Night to 36fl, both with a gamma of 2.3.

post #10725 of 10771
I will soon be in possession of a brand new 151 elite from pioneer it is a warranty replacement for my old 6020 pioneer let me upgrade to the 151 but at a cost. tv will come with extra 2 remote 2 sets of side speakers a power board 2 sustain boards and the board to turn a 6020 into a elite.so if you are interested make me a offer thanks
post #10726 of 10771
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcapprotti View Post

I will soon be in possession of a brand new 151 elite from pioneer it is a warranty replacement for my old 6020 pioneer let me upgrade to the 151 but at a cost. tv will come with extra 2 remote 2 sets of side speakers a power board 2 sustain boards and the board to turn a 6020 into a elite.so if you are interested make me a offer thanks

That's a lot of stuff, shame you're in the US and me here in the UK/Scotland smile.gif

I would have probably be interested otherwise.
post #10727 of 10771
Why I will probably end up keeping it is because when th ZT came out and the Reviews were in and also the reviews from the flat-panel shootout it gave people another option then buying a used kuro.so when they became available to the public the prices dropped on the kuro quite a bit in April I remember seeing a 141 new on eBay that went for $5300 no sweat but now you could probably never get that because the ZT and the vt are out but I'll tell you one thing I will not give my TV away I can't get what I want I will buy a warranty and I will keep it because I think it's every bit the TV that the new Panasonic's
post #10728 of 10771
Noticed an issue with my KRP-500M and it's freaking me out!

There's an abnormal electricity/static noise from the panel, I'm not talking about the regular plasma buzz as I'm used to that by now owning 2 Kuros. This noise is specially pretty bad when the panel boots up (the phase where the blacks look grey then it dims to normal black levels in 10 seconds or so). Here's a sample I recorded (when turning the Kuro on) because I can't explain how it sounds, make sure to crank the volume a bit to hear it properly because I recorded it with my phone so sound quality is pretty poor:

https://soundcloud.com/metallicaband/krp-500m-noise

It's like random electric charges are going through the circuit boards or something, noise comes from throughout the screen but mostly from the upper left and lower right corners of the screen, not located in one specific place for sure. After it boots up, the set behaves normally for the most part but it does make those noises and it's very noticeable when the Kuro is switching signals (like going from 720p to 1080p) or when I put it on a blank input with no signal.

With regular content, I can Still hear a tiny electricity static pop noise every once in a while which might be related to big contrast shifts on the screen, but those happen pretty rarely and are barely noticeable if I enable the sound (was testing without audio while being OCD as hell). It's not normal behavior though and I'm afraid using the set might lead to something getting really messed up if I ignore this issue, I have no clue what's causing this!


2 things that I'm randomly thinking about right now that might have caused the issue:

1- There could be something wrong with my room's electricity, my 5020FD functions normally in the living room, I'm going to check the circuit breakers tomorrow to see if they're running on the same circuit and to calm my OCD I'll probably take the panel to the living room (they're right next to each other) once my brother happens to be at home and test it there, just to confirm 100% nothing in my room is causing an interference or something.

I've already tried plugging it on a different socket using a different power cord as well, but nothing changed. Changing power save modes doesn't eliminate this issue as well. I also tried unplugging the only HDMI cable connected to the TV and it didn't make any difference.

2- Second thing is really random but I'm kinda desperate here lol, my KRP-500M wasn't installed using an official 500M table stand, another pioneer stand was used which fits perfectly fine, but there's a small issue with the screws, I'm assuming the stand bolts were meant to be used for Kuros that are thick like my 5020FD so the upper screws are larger than what my KRP require and a part of it sticks out, here's an image. It's not possible that after a year + somehow those washers is causing a short or whatever electricity issue, right -_- ?

Couldn't get my hands on the proper bolt length to change those (m8 23mm if I'm not mistaken, probably should look for 'em again), the stand is stable though, but I'd be pissed if this somehow caused the issue I'm having now.

Could this be a power supply going bad symptom btw?

For the time being I fully unplugged the Kuro and cursing my stupidly bad luck now that my 5020 has the red tint issue and I'm facing this weird as hell issue with the 500M, I was looking forward to at least use it for the next 2-3 years until a worthy HDTV is available to upgrade to and was really excited to get a PS4 in March along with MGS:Ground Zeros to enjoy an amazing red-tint free Kuro image, really sucks this happened now.

Any help/ideas would be much appreciated guys.

ps: I'll post this in a couple of Kuro threads since people aren't usually subscribed to all of them!
Edited by metallicaband - 12/21/13 at 2:40pm
post #10729 of 10771
metalicaband,
Do you have a power conditioner/surge protector for your tv? If not, i would recommend one. The power that goes to your home is likely not clean. In other words it can vary from 120v to 130v, which can cause power supply issues, buzzing, etc. If I plug my 5020 directly into the wall, the buzzing is louder. When I connect it to my surge protector, the buzzing is a lot less. As far a red tint, I did the full reset on my 5020 and it cleared up that red tint.
post #10730 of 10771
Thanks for replying,

I don't live in the states, power here is rated at 230/240v. I use a multi-input extension that I assume has surge protection in it, nothing fancy though and it definitely doesn't have power conditioning.

The thing is though that this isn't like normal plasma buzzing at all, listen to the clip I posted in-case you didn't already.
post #10731 of 10771
Yet if it does not do it in another room outlet, it's the strip.
post #10732 of 10771
I tried it in the living room today using a different power strip that I use for my 5020FD(which doesn't have this issue), still the same thing. I already tried different power cords. Living room and my room run off the same circuit, but I really doubt it's the room's electricity that's causing this issue.

I hate it when I face literally the weirdest issues that I can barely find any info about online, so if anyone has ANY idea about this sort of issue (zapping noise from the panel, specially when turning it on), please share your thoughts.
post #10733 of 10771
Quote:
Originally Posted by metallicaband View Post

I tried it in the living room today using a different power strip that I use for my 5020FD(which doesn't have this issue), still the same thing. I already tried different power cords. Living room and my room run off the same circuit, but I really doubt it's the room's electricity that's causing this issue.

I hate it when I face literally the weirdest issues that I can barely find any info about online, so if anyone has ANY idea about this sort of issue (zapping noise from the panel, specially when turning it on), please share your thoughts.

Hate to make you think I can help you out, but I'm just posting to say my PRO-111FD starting doing the same thing a couple months ago. It had never done it before being plugged into the same power strip for 3 years and it really freaked me out the first time it happened. It stops after it's warmed up a bit and so far it's been fine. Still though, I am worried it could be a sign my Kuro is on it's last legs frown.gif Would love to hear anything you find about it as well.
post #10734 of 10771
Anyone have any experience with blue dots appearing on the panel while on? It's on a 5020 panel. Is this a part replacement? Thank you
post #10735 of 10771
Also, I can't seem to find the process of doing a hard reset on this panel (5020). Anyone know where I can find a step by step? Thank you.
post #10736 of 10771
this should be the right thread to ask

i have a problem
i want the gamma curve from the Optimum mode on my LX5090 smile.gif
overall i think it gives the best depth and punch to the picture without losing details.
my calibrated values with a flat gamma curve at 2.3 looks flat and washed out compared to the optimum mode.
so there goes the reference numbers wink.gif

the question is
what does the Optimum mode chage besides contrast for different environment lightings?
does it also changes the gamma curve based on what content is displayed?
then its mission impossible to copy that gamma curve.
post #10737 of 10771
I know this is an old thread but I just wanted to confirm that tweaking the pot on the power supply board of my 151FD fixed the purple sparkles that have started to appear on my display when switching from a dark to light image.

The potentiometer is marked Vo ADJ (below the pot) and the pot is located to the left just below a group of 4 capacitors on the AXY1201 board (see photo). I tweaked the pot about a quarter turn clockwise with the TV unplugged (for safety) and then checked. All the sparkles are gone.

I hope this helps someone else. The purple sparkles have been driving me crazy so I'm thrilled this has fixed the problem. It was a pain in the butt to unmount the TV and remove all the screws holding the back cover but at least I didn't have to pay for a service call. I don't know how long this fix will hold but I will post again if it doesn't.

Many thanks to the posters who posted this fix. I don't want to replace this TV until I absolutely have to. Love my Kuro. smile.gif

post #10738 of 10771
Quote:
Originally Posted by jellow View Post


The potentiometer is marked Vo ADJ (below the pot) and the pot is located to the left

I wonder if this pot is the same as the one i adjusted.
VS ADJ ?
I also adjusted the VA ADJ pot to reduce sparkles near black.

On my LX 5090 i have no VO ADJ pot.
Wonder what pot is similar to that one on mine.

Can you remember the names for the other pots ?
post #10739 of 10771
Quote:
Originally Posted by pg_ice View Post

I wonder if this pot is the same as the one i adjusted.
VS ADJ ?
I also adjusted the VA ADJ pot to reduce sparkles near black.

On my LX 5090 i have no VO ADJ pot.
Wonder what pot is similar to that one on mine.

Can you remember the names for the other pots ?

I'm sorry, I can't remember exactly what the other pot was marked. I want to say VS ADJ or VS1 ADJ but take that with a big grain of salt.
post #10740 of 10771
Quote:
Originally Posted by jellow View Post

I'm sorry, I can't remember exactly what the other pot was marked. I want to say VS ADJ or VS1 ADJ but take that with a big grain of salt.

so the Vo ADJ that you adjusted should be the same as the VA ADJ pot.
it helped me reducing sparkles near black so it must be the same.
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