The Official Pioneer 9G Kuro Settings/Issues Thread - Page 10

I'm sorry for a newbie question.. what's the difference between D55 and D75?
what are D55 and D75?

these refer to white points. 5500k, 6500k and 7500k approx. 6500k is said to be ideal and neutral. 5500k is warmer, while 7500k is cooler as it refers to the white balance.
d55 is preferred by some for black and white, while d75 is preferred by some for sports, or for more pop.

Ok Guy's,

What AV mode and settings is everyone using for playing PS3 games on their 111FD's?Looking for the best PQ not necessarily worried about Lag as I don't online game.

I ran the break-in DVD as much as my wife would let me, also had normal viewing content thrown into the mix (I didn't count it towards my break-in hours, though)

Do what you need to. If you can get it all done all at once, more power to ya! I couldn't, partially because of my wife and partially because I was too anxious.

I found the best way to remove it is drop G LOW. I also notice all the rgb lows are set to high. Which is why when you turn the brightness up only a notch or two the brightness jumps up so high. And how color can interfere with the blacks.

For green the only true green control is the low. Cms won't take the green push away imo.


Using 0 as a reference they are all boosted to high imo. Drop them all to -5 say and compare, not much different than all 0, plus you can better black level control. Just my opinions from messing around with it.

That unit was also green when set to Pure mode and Manual color temp. The initial condition of that set was something like neutral color temp.

Forgot about green high. I'll try that and compare but green low seemed to get rid of the green push i see. We are only talking a few clicks.




Makes sense, but not trying to get it blacker, but more dynamic range with the blacks. Turning brightness up only a couple nothches results in poor blacks, droping the lows gives it better range and shadow detail. Actually you would be raising the blacks only slightly for better shadow detail. I have not noticed a drop in brightness. But i will compare. Thanks.

lol.. I'm convinced on pure.


I know it affects brightness control. The way it is now i can adjust it much past +2 with better shadow detail and still deep blacks. Another reason is some space movies i see color getting in the way with the blacks. Droping the lows seem to get rid of all that. Yes i agree calibration equipment would be fun to play with.

I have a question that dissapeared during the weekend. It's a question for D-Nice or some other knowledgeable guy, and it's a theoretic question about the break-in procedure.

1. How come the recommended break-in settings have changed over time? Do you have several sets which you break in with different settings, then after X hours compare the results and how accurate they are when putting in reference settings?

Several people have in this thread asked something like "oh, I used your old break-in recommendations have I know screwed something up". The answer is always No, no worries.

But how do you then get to the point where you change the recommended break-in settings with roughly AV Standard and color +15 to AV Sport and color +20 for example? Is the latter better? Something have made you change the recommendations, right?

I guess why alot of people ask is because alot of people follow the recommendations and then the recommendations change, of course you start to wonder if you could have (in theory at least) a better display by using the newer recommendations from the start.


2. Second question, following a break-in procedure is there any theoretic chance it could be bad for a display? I don't mean putting in the "extreme settings" and then leave a static picture on ruining it yourself but I mean if you follow it and it works as it should, any more chances of stuck pixels or something like that compared to normal viewing (with faster moving pictures and pixels)?

Are the break-in files supposed to contain 20 images (5 grayscale, 5 red, 5 green and 5 blue)? How is that supposed to go for 45 mins at 30 seconds apiece?

Thanks!

If you are using the break-in files on disk, the disk is configured to repeat endlessly.

OK, I am FREAKING OUT a bit. Ran the thumbdrive last night before going to bed but apparently it didn't "repeat all". When I got up this morning it is on the menu screen to select pictures. Have I done damage? Eveything looks ok-I resarted the thumbdrive and made sure it was repeating this time. There doesn't appear to be any image retention from that menu screen. Am I OK?

Welcome to the club. I have talked to others who have ignored my advice and risked damaging their display with this silliness.

Well, unfortunately I haven't had the pleasure of your advice before. The question remains, am I ok?

It is difficult to be aware of all that is discussed here. I would contact D-Nice for help with this since he is a resident expert on this technique.

Your lack of knowledge is showing. A lack of effect cannot be proved only the presence of one. The proof of which is in your camp not mine.

Thanks D-Nice. I figured since there was no obvious image retention then I was ok but still I was a little worried. Not sure what happened. I thought I selected repeat all but apparently not. I have restarted the slide show an dit has been running for about 2.5 hrs and seems to be finen now. I have notice one other thing but don't believe it is a big deal. Between each slide the screen goes black for about 6-7 seconds. I assume this is just part of it loading the next image and is no big deal.

By the way, umr why so down on breakin?

D-Nice-once I complete the "breakin" do I need to do a calibration specifically for my unit or are there reference settings that are pretty universal? I would want the setting for 65K range so I get the most natural/balanced look.

I work on hundreds of displays a year some of which use this process others of which have not. I see no positive effect from it. While I do get reports of problems with it. If there is no obvious benefit and possible negatives. It seems silly to me to do it.

Hey D-Nice any rough guess as to when you think you will be releasing the SM calibration info on the 5020/6020's? thanks agian