The Official Pioneer 9G Kuro Settings/Issues Thread - Page 268

I have no idea what you guys are talking about. This "plus green" thing is a mystery to me because I called Pioneer today and talked to a cs rep and they have never heard of "plus green."

It's not something they would know about but that's irrelevant. Look at the sticker on the back of your panel and check the build date. If it's in 2009 then there are no D-Nice reference settings for you and his panel aging process doesn't apply.

The "reference" settings have to match the panel. If your panel is "Plus Green" the reference settings will reduce the green. If you're panel is "Minus Green" then "Plus Green" settings would make it worse (more minus).

There's already been enough wailing, gnashing of teeth and begging related to the 2009 151FD panels. There are still no "reference" settings.

For more insight search this thread for 151FD and you'll find this:

I just got my Pioneer KRP-600M calibrated this past weekend by D-Nice. This is my 2nd Pioneer panel that D-Nice has calibrated. I also bought the IFCc patch from Turbe. The results are unbelievable. Anyone on the fence with buying this TV find one and buy it!!! Once you get it buy the IFCc patch from Turbe. A big Thank You to D-Nice and Turbe both are top notch!!! D-Nice is the best calibrater in the business!! Demand the best and get him to come do your TV! D-Nice is worth every penny and both my Pioneer plasma's look amazing!!!

Aaah ok, now it's much clearer. Thanks a bunch. I read couple of conversations regarding the green tint issue but didn't make the connection with "plus green." I know gf will be pleased to hear the news and that we can proceed with watching our tv shows and movies =]

Seriously, don't you think this topic has been confusing enough? (Just review the posts about from the last 24 hours. ) Making up new nomenclature at this point not only doesn't help anything, it's just silly. "Panel aging?" Hell, my panels are aging as I write...I wonder if I'm using the right settings???? OMG! Do I need a disc? See the problem?

One final point. There is absolutely no reason you cannot try any settings you want and see how you like them. They can't hurt your panel....the worst that can happen is that they don't look quite right. Do keep in mind that the pixels settle the most over the first couple hundred hours so any given settings are apt to look a little different in a few weeks. But still, there's no reason you can't try any and all settings you want.

Good info. Btw, amidst of all the break-in process I totally forgot to mention that the PQ looked amazing out of the box. By default it was set to standard. I was really impressed with that. I switched to movie mode and though it wasn't as saturated as the standard mode the overall image was very pleasing to me.

so, 151s bought now do not break in

I've used the Spears and Munsil disc to adjust the settings on my 600M, and while I'm able to see all of the black bars I'm supposed to on the Dynamic Range Low with a gamma of 2 and brightness of +2, these settings don't work on real world content. I had to go with gamma 4 and brightness +3, and I still feel like there's still some loss of shadow detail near full black.

Here's a rough idea of what I'm seeing (or the lack of).

Sweeney Todd HD trailer on:

Mackbook Pro (screen grab)


Kuro 600M with +2 brightness and gamma setting of 2


Kuro 600M with +6 brightness and gamma setting of 4


Of course with a brightness of +6, it ruins the ultimate black level.

Thoughts?

Not for the original purpose of using D-Nice's settings. But if you are anxious to get a bunch of hours on the panel to help stabilize the picture settings, the break-in images are a great way to do that. Many owners have used them this way. In that scenario, don't worry about following the detailed "protocol;" just run the disc when not using the TV for something else.

Thanks for your calibration report. I've included it in the flat panel (Post#2) list that's linked at the bottom of my post.

Oddly this sounds like you think I coined this new name for the D-Nice protocol. Surely not though, I must be misunderstanding you.

No, I understand where it came from. But we're not sheep....in thread discussions, we can choose to continue using the same words that everybody knows and have used around here for as long as I can remember. Sorry if it seemed I was attributing the term to you. But I am suggesting we think twice before perpetuating it......before we start a whole new round of endlessly confusing posts that serve no purpose other than to "correct" terminology. I really do think it's silly at this point.

D-Nice -

What do make of the problem I posted up at post #8019?

D-Nice - OK thanks.

I don't think it's silly. Sloppy terminology and the concomitant sloppy thinking is endemic in the threads I frequent and I support any effort toward correctness and precision in communication. I believe that will ultimately result in greater clarity even at the cost of short term confusion.

I particularly like panel aging because it's likely to help people think in terms of uneven aging rather than "but I have burn-in at the top and bottom from watching movies".

I'm well aware of that. I wasn't addressing you, as you seldom engage in the actual discussion about it anyway.

NO... I don't want my panel to age or to burn... I vote we now call it "Massaging the Pixels".

(The humorless can ignore this post.)

I'm no calibrator but isn't it the contrast you would want to adjust and not the brightness...

Thanks for your Report

The contrast is already maxed, but it the brightness and gamma are what control low level detail anyway.

Jitu:

I have a 2009 151 that I recently made some measurements on. It turned out that DNices settings for Pure mode with the Color Management and Color Detail settings at the 0 values weren't bad. The data I collected is in post http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=7904. I suggest you use DNice's settings with the color management and color detail at default setting and enjoy your new set.

D-Nice, can you pm me on how much you charge to calibrate and availability?

Thanks

I understand that not everything in the dark portions of the picture should be visible, but I'm very familiar with that scene from Sweeney Todd that I posted pics of and I'm certain that I should be seeing more than what I am getting.

I know you take the hard line on the need for measurements to properly calibrate a panel, and I respect that. But I've read through hundreds of posts for the 600M and it is almost unanimous that the "proper" gamma setting is 2 and brightness settings range from +1 to +3. I can understand that adjusting the 9 point gamma would require a meter, but when dealing with the 5 presets, what would a meter tell you that you don't already know? In other words, have you ever calibrated a 600M that required a gamma setting other than preset 2 and brightness of 1-3?

Well, anyway, I thought that I had found the answer to my poor shadow detail, but it turned out to make no difference. The "black level" setting in my prepro was set to 0 IRE, when it should have been 7.5 IRE. I made the switch, which I expected to lift the black level, but nada, nothin', no change.

Speaking of "black level" settings. In the pro adjust menu of the 600M, there is an option to turn the "black level" on or off. Is this the 0 / 7.5 IRE setting? If so, it does nothing when I turn it on or off. Shouldn't it have some visible effect on the black level / shadow detail?

Nope, I watched the entire clip. That dark frame should look just like that. In the photos the highlights are clearly blown.

Thanks for the feedback and taking the time to check out the shadow detail on your panel with that scene. Did you watch the HD movie trailer available on Apple's website, the BD or the DVD?

I spent a little more time on the issue, and finally made some headway. I had the wrong color profile selected for the Mac Mini. Now the image I posted looks very close to the same on on both my MacBook and the Kuro, but with the Kuro winning out on the black level of course. Shadow detail now looks perfect for that source with a gamma setting of 2 and brightness of -4 no less. I think I've also come to realize that the Sweeney Todd BD and DVD both have crushed blacks in the movie its self. I still think there is room for improvement in how this BD is presented by my Kuro, but my expectations have adjusted down.