The Official Pioneer 9G Kuro Settings/Issues Thread - Page 4

I always thought it was just a USB Memory Stick with the Burn-In files on it. No?....

Would there be any point in trying these reference settings on euro 9g models (I have PDP-LX5090)? We don't have the "Pure"-mode over here, but maybe it's quite close to our "User"?

Thanks!

no offense guys, but this is stupid. I was under the impression that this is a settings thread. now it just seems to be turning into another general 9G thread....

Hi D-Nice;

Great job on the new thread. How close do you think that us non-elite owners

XX20's can come to D65, D55, D75 on our displays?

D, your new settings look amazing on my set so a big thank you first off for your hard work there as well as starting this thread! The question I have for you now is, and I know your not hot on this A/V mode but will you have any settings for "performance" mode which I happen to like for daytime viewing in particular or any daytime viewing settings for that matter like you did for the 8g Elites?

Aside from changing contrast, color, and turning brightness up to +1, I basically duplicated your reference settings on pure mode on to performance mode this morning in my sun light filled living room and I thought they looked almost identical when I would hit the tool button to compare the 2 with the exception of perfromance mode obviously having more pop which I welcomed in my daytime enviorment. I know some reccomend optimum mode for daytime viewing but I personally cant stand how blue it looks. At least with using your reference settings on Performace I get that warmer look I perfer.

All this said my next question to you is if its even possible to get Perfromance mode close to D65?

geez get over it, all of them turn into general threads. people need info so they ask a general question. just like i'm making a general observation......

You the man

Anyone?

mr2828, you're misunderstanding what the orbiter does. It physically moves the picture around to ensure that it is not in the same place. Now, what that means is if there is overscan on the bottom portion by 3% then the top will be underscanned by 3% and the same will be true as it is shifting from side to side. It's not changing the size of the picture at all, it's just simply shifting it. Each pixel is getting a single pixel of information, it's just instantly switching which pixel the information is getting sent to.

Again, if there is 5 pixel rows missing from the bottom then there'll be 5 pixels missing on the top. What it does is simply adds black bars to portions to of the screen that don't have any information, so it really isn't noticeable.

Yes, it is STILL not displaying all of the information, which is part of the benefit of dot-by-dot, but it is NOT expanding the information to each pixel so there's no scaling involved. Thus preserving most of the benefit of dot-by-dot.

I think that if you ran the Break-In DVD with the Break-In settings now for some hours I think it should be just fine.

Even though you didn't follow the break-in period, the idea behind the break-in sequence is to uniformly wear the pixels. I think that with the settings you used, you simply just didn't wear the pixels as much as if you used the 'Break-In' settings. Which is why I think that if you just ran it a little bit longer, you should be fine.

The whole idea behind D-Nice's reference settings seems to be just that - 'a reference'. By definition a reference is - use or recourse for purposes of information. My enterpretation is it's a starting point. It is to get people's sets close to the ISF standard as possible. Of course, it will vary ever-so-slightly for everyone and their individual situations, but it will still be close.

You can still use his settings and if they look good enough (possibly they will look great to you, anyway) then use them. Tweak the settings to your liking.

I thought you can't use game pref unless you are on the game AV selection? Can we have some Game AV selection settings?

So can we have game AV mode settings???

Nice job on the new thread D-Nice.

Since you are both the OP and the Unofficial/Official AVS cszar of all things Pioneer Plasma can you clarify the intended use of this thread?

It seems obvious from the title of the thread I know but to clarify, is it your intention to consolidate all information related to settings for both Elite and Non-Elite 9G Kuros and if so then can you link to (1st post of thread) if not merge with the previous Non-Elite settings info thread started by Hun? That could make that the "old" thread so Non-Elite users know where to post going forward.


There are some game mode settings re-posted, orginally from D-nice in the above referenced thread along with some other helpful info related to game usage on the Kuro Non-Elites.

It would be helpful to merge or copy those post to this consolidated thread IMHO, assuming this thread is intended for Elite and Non-Elite users.

Thanks for the settings. Will there be any settings for cable boxes or sdtv on pro111? I watch a decent amount of sdtv and was wondering if I should have any of the noise reduction features on for that.

Repost from old thread:

Sadly, I have the 151 , so these don't apply to me . I could use some reference (ish) settings for game AV selection.

Hmm, someone send D-Nice a game console for calibration purposes, maybe an Atari 2600 or such fine example

Long & Short from the Kuro on lag appears to be that the Game Mode has a setting for increasing responsiveness in case input lag becomes noticeable.

Not all games or all players are sensitive enough to slight amounts of lag to be an issue at all. Some games and some players are extremely sensitive to even the smallest lag.

Pioneer implies that it may sacrifice some PQ when the game control pref is on so the option is yours. You may not notice any difference in quality with it on anyway but maybe someone can do an A/B check on a few games and report back if so inclined.

For rock band though, it may be pretty critical. I'm back away from my replacement 151... It looks AMAZING. Much better than the old one. Only thing wrong is that I think it has streaks (vertical) going down the center of the screen.

First off, thank you DNice for all of your work, research and contributions - I have learned a lot from you and several others on this great forum.

I did the 150 hr. break-in almost perfectly and only watched a few hours of planet earth in between sessions. After adjusting the Pure mode with the Post-Break-in Reference settings for the 151 last night in complete darkness, here are my impressions:

My test material were two movies on HD stations - one an older movie (still color though) on MOJO HD and the other a newer movie with Matthew Mcconaughey on TBS HD (I forget the names because I wasn't really watching the movies!). I thought the image looked a little flat/dull compared to what I was used to. There also seemed to be a subtle, yellowish haze/filter over the image. The image was not displeasing, just different. It reminded me more of the big screen and had a slightly washed, cinematic look to it. Skin tones appeared to be very accurate.

In comparison, optimum mode did not have any yellowish haze/filter and looked much more "clear" to me. The brightness of optimum was hit and miss for me - in some scenes, it made things seem more real and life-like, while other instances made it seem artificially bright. Skin tones with optimum varied as well, but many looked enhanced and fake - like a TV news anchor with too much make-up on (glowing skin). I will be curious to test both of these picture modes with a few blu rays in the near future.

More than anything, I realized how conditioned I was to enjoy a brighter image with more/over-saturated colors even if it wasn't always accurate. On Discovery HDT, I definitely preferred optimum mode because it made all foliage and flowers appear very vibrant and saturated. I came away from this testing thinking that for movies I would probably most enjoy settings that fell between the two (D65 Pure and Optimum). I think Optimum will be great for sports/daytime viewing and I'm anxious to try the D75 settings as well. I'm sure the reference settings will also grow on me as I watch them more.

DNice - is there a way you might suggest I make the Reference settings appear more clearly with less of a filtered look? Should I even bother tweaking the reference settings to begin with or just start fresh with another picture mode/new settings?

.

Focused, the point of D-Nice’s settings is to get it as close to a certain standard as possible. This ISF standard is what moviemakers use as a point of reference and as such an ISF calibration is preferred to truly see the director’s intent when viewing a movie. The “filtered” look you referred to is two things. The D65K grayscale will yield a little bit more of a yellow-reddish look, especially when comparing it to Optimum. I find the Optimum mode to be just the opposite, not so optimum. Grayscale is too cool, colors are overly saturated, sharpness is too high, and black levels tend to be crushed.

The thing with a calibrated image is you need to set it and leave it for a few days to get used to it. It is proven that compared to the out of the box settings, a properly calibrated set will yield a more natural look, better shadow detail, truer colors, more detail and also be easier on the eyes, especially when watching in the dark. Focused, I would say, give it time. True, a properly calibrated image may still not be for you, but I still say give it time to see if you start noticing a difference.

You said it yourself, you have been conditioned to enjoy the brighter, punchier image.

Ultimately, you don’t have to use the settings, just use what looks good to you, since its your TV.

If I choose powersave mode 2 to reduce buzzing on my 151, will D's reference color settings change significantly? Also, would there be any point in turning up contrast to make up for the sl decrease in brightness? Although I'm thinking that will just result in clipping.

Another question--could someone please explain how the 3 different gamma settings affect the picture? Is one of them supposed to be more correct?