*Official* Denon AVR 2309CI/889 Thread - Page 65

you select whatever input you have left over. since the video isn't running through the receiver, you don't even need to use up one of your video input "names". There is nothing special about that input, just treat it like any other audio device like a CD player or whatever. The only thing you have to do is assign that optical input to the correct name and you are done!

You have two audio-only input "names" -- "CD-R/TAPE" and "CD". Just use one of those, rename it to "MAC MINI" and assign the optical input to it, and enjoy

Thanks!

I'm sure I'll be posting again in this thread once the unit arrives. I can't wait!

The whole question may be moot anyway because Today Apple announced a major update to the IPHONE software

this is why I hate 3rd-party docking solutions, they are always fraught with issues as Apple's itunes/ipod/iphone software is a moving target.

Apple TV = the winner

You said a mouthful in 4.5 words

if you already have an iPhone and/or ipod touch, and all of your music is already on iTunes, then Apple TV is the perfect integrated solution. You can pick up a 40GB model for $150 or less on ebay (not much more than most decent 3rd-party docks) and it will blend in seamlessly, and you can even control your music from your iPhone from anywhere in the house! I love my Apple TV, but it seems to be weirdly unpopular, more a niche market thing...

I have read Batpig's FAQ and the Audyssey FAQ. I have run the auto setup. Dynamic volume doesn't seem to do anything for me. Any tips?

Thanks

Now that I've moved further along in the manual, I've reached the Assign page. Appears I missed a step in the set-up. When I got to DVD, I found it said "None" for the HDMI 1. I thought since the slot was labeled, it did it automatically. Oh well, everything is humming nicely now - I even did some "renamings."

Thanks Batpig for helping me see thru this maze.

You could try different Dynamic Volume settings. You'll find them under "Parameter -> Audyssey Settings", when Dynamic Volume is on.

Awesome, glad it clicked for you

The effect can be subtle if you aren't watching the right program material.

Try turning Dynamic Volume off (leave Dyn. EQ on) and just watch some TV. When you happen to hit a pretty egregious transition from normal programming to a blaringly loud commercial, rewind a bit (back to the normal program) and turn Dynamic Volume on at MIDNIGHT setting. Then, start re-watching the last stretch before you hit the commercial, you may have to readjust the volume up a bit to compensate. Then, notice when you hit the loud commercial that the volume swing is greatly reduced.

Another good test is to pop in a DVD with huge dynamic swings, like a big action movie with loud explosions. Find a scene where you hit one of those "I turned the volume up so I could hear the dialogue and then when the explosions started going off I had to rush to grab the remote before my wife screams at me to turn it down" moments. Try rewatching that scene on various Dynamic Volume settings and notice how each settings successively restricts the dynamic range.

Thanks. I didn't realize that. I'll check it out.

Ok, I just received my eD A2-300 sub today and ran Audyssey. Below is what I got.

This is what I got with Audyssey:
FL=-3.5db
FR=-1.5
c=-6.0
SW=-11.5
SL=-4.0
SR=-8.5

All speakers set to large. However after running Audyssey I now get no sound out of the SW???? When I hooked up the sub straight from the box I was getting sound and Audyssey picked it up at all positions.

I'm confused! I'm not sure what the difference is between LFE and LFE+Main nad if I need to change that setting.

if ya wanna be topdog, ya gotta read the Guides-batpig's and Audyssey Setup. At this point you should at least reset all speakers to small & raise crossovers as appropriate (what are your autosetup xovers?). LFE is left at default=LFE (with Small speakers, LFE & Main doesn't do anything anyway) and raise the LFE LPF to 120. You should hear the sub then.
Audyssey link:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=795421
batpig link:
http://batpigworld.com/

Some other thoughts: is your sub on "standby"? Did you pay attention to the subwoofer settings (filters, phase, etc.) before running autosetup?

BTW, if at any point you're gonna rerun Auto Setup, first turn the vol knob down a little on the sub, if you want the SW trim to come out closer to 0. Oh, yeh, one more thing. I'm curious as to what's the AVR's SW distance vs tape measure distance to the sub?

Ok, I can agree that I could spend more time in the guides, and greatly appreciate the knowledge on this site, and I really have been reading them and the threads.....but still getting confused!

Sub is not on standby; I did put the sw settings as instructed in the Audyssey set up guide; Distance from auto setup was 18.7 ft, actual distance is 12.2ft. All other speakers were pretty darn close to the tape measure distance.

Ok, good. I just wanted to establish that you had followed the basic guidelines. So...let's go back to:

"At this point you should at least reset all speakers to small & raise crossovers as appropriate (what are your autosetup xovers?). LFE is left at default=LFE (with Small speakers, LFE & Main doesn't do anything anyway) and raise the LFE LPF to 120."

autoset up xovers are at 40 for everything; speakers set to small; LPF raised to 120 (should this be at 120 on the sw itself also?).

Been testing with the IronMan scene where he first appears and seems my center is putting out most of the bass currently.

Should I manually change the sw distance also since it is so far off?

I re-ran auto setup with the level at 10ish, phase=0, LPF=120. SW came back at +2.0db but still at 19ft.

Back down to the basement for more tweaking!! (I'm driving my dog crazy with these tones)

The sub LPF should have been set to max (before autosetup), whatever that is, and is left there. Never, ever, manually change any distance setting.
Again, (battle cry) "Raise The Crossovers and damn the torpedos!" Send that bad boy sub more stuff! 60 or 80.

BTW most bass should localize to your CC/ Fronts from nl listening position. After you raise the xovers, go put your hand on/ear by the sub and report back.

well, that is what setting a speaker to "large" means -- you have told the receiver send the full-range signal to the speakers instead of the sub.

if your speakers are set to "large" the ONLY thing the subwoofer will ever get is discrete LFE content.

set your speakers to "small" and raise the crossover to 80.

gee, that good advice sounds familiar, bp

ok, definatley getting stuff now (thank you!). Going to keep tweaking a little to see where she goes as it seems to me the sub should still be "heard" a little more than it is. On another note, the reast of the speakers sound amazing. As I was testing with Iron Man I ended up with the whole family in the basement wanting to keep watching.

I just picked up a 2309 and have a question about "Amp-assign". I have a second set of speakers in another room I want to drive with whatever is output on main fronts. I don't really want a "zone 2" because the source selection is not needed -- it should always be whatever is on the fronts.
On my previous receiver I connected the speakers to "front B" and that's how I have them connected to the 2309 now. Since I only have a 4.1 system (that's another story) I thought I could use the extra "surround back" amplifiers to drive the speakers in the other room. Would setting the "Amp-assign" to "Bi-amp A" do what I want?

dunda, if you always run that 2nd set, yes it makes sense. Of course leaving them on B allows switching. Dude, 4.1?
Actually what about Front B Bi amp-best of both worlds??

As mentioned before, it's highly unlikely that "bi-amping" your "B" speakers will produce any noticable difference, although as SOM mentioned, you would select "Front B Bi-amp" (rather than "Front A Bi-amp") and wire the "B" speakers with the SBL and SBR speaker wires as well.

jd, if I am understanding correctly, he's not "passive bi-amping" the B speakers, he just wants to drive them with the surround amps rather than using the front L/R amps to drive 4 (A&B) speakers at once. Do you think that's worth worth a try?

Okay .... I misunderstood. He wants to swap from the "B" jacks to the SBL and SBR. No bi-amping, just taking advantage of the way the Denon sends the signal out. Might work.

Ok, dunda. Sounds like you've got the "OK" to go ahead and give it a try-and report back!

You are right, set receiver "Bi-amp A" mode, and connect second pair of speakers to "Surround back" terminals.

ap, we're moving pretty fast this am, buddy, and so we've already gone from A to B. Are you with us now, or arguing for A?

I agree, go "B"!

(that's a nice campaign slogan)

SoM is correct, the appropriate configuration is "B" speakers connected to SURR.BACK L/R and amp assign set to "FrontB BI-AMP".