Magnavox H2160MW9 with 160GB HDD - Virtual Clone of Philips 3576H? - Page 88  

No, I didn't forget the option of replacing the Oppo. I just didn't want to go that route at this point.
It wasn't mentioned. No, there is no problem playing back on it's own drive.
I don't have access to another stand alone recorder.
I only opened up one recorder. I didn't notice any 'looseness' to the optical drive. The problem exists on both of the recorders, so I'm reasonably sure it's not that.
BTW, I would use soft rubber feet to absorb vibrations, not hard.

Thanks. Does the 2160 format the new HDD also? Would I be able to install one larger than the 160 GB?

Thanks . I read the article after I posted the message. DOH! So it looks like if I order a newer 2160 I will be getting a SATA drive according to the post.

Forgive me if I missed the info in this thread...

Is there a list of the differences between the H2160MW9 versus H2160MW9A ? Can someone point me to it or share it?

Also, have the refurbs from J&R been reliable? If any failed, what was the specific failure(s)? I'm considering ordering a J&R refurb, and would greatly appreciation the info.

Thanks in advance!

Just wanted to start by saying thank you to all that contributed to this thread. It's nice to have a reference point (w/ pictures & diagrams) when you are getting started. Furthermore, the suggestions and detail of posts have been extremely helpful.

I have a few questions, but I thought it would be best to tell you why I recently purchased the 2160A. Currently, I have two modded original Xbox's and an Xbox360 that are networked (locally) with a 3 TB NAS. About a month ago, I pulled my HTPC (myth) out of the network because of IR Blaster issues. Initially both the NAS and the HTPC were my storage/archiving spots for my video files. However, the primary purpose of the HTPC was recording TV and I was looking for a good alternative. As a sidenote, the best replacement for the HTPC would have been a networkable DVR, but I couldn't find one.

So, the route I'm going to take (unless a better way is suggested) is to archive on DVD then rip for network usage. I'll be recording quite a few basketball games and the occasional movie. My best available feeds from STB (sat) are S-Video and composite audio. Since the Magnavox will be connected to "extra" composite ports on the TV and I'll be manually recording, scheduling timers are not an issue.....plus a blaster is something I don't wish to deal with again.

As for sporting events, what recording mode do you suggest? It seems like quality/framerate could play a big factor in regards to choppiness/pixelation. Also, what is a good chapter setting for such recordings?

This is a little outside the scope of this thread: Currently I can stream ISO/wmv/avi files w/ the modified Xbox's, but the 360 can only handle a properly encoded wmv/avi(divx/xvid/mp4). Could anyone suggest a good format which would be compatible with all these machines?

After a few minor glitches, the magnavox seems to be performing like a champ. I must say I am very impressed with it's capabilities and the quality of video (while testing). Since I've done a little work on the original Xbox's and built quite a few PCs, the hard drive upgrade wasn't too intimidating. Actually, one of the first things I did was rip out the 160 GB drive and replaced it with a 500 GB. Goodbye Warranty.

Thanks for the insights!
Can you provide more details on the HDD upgrade?
Which brand/model of HDD did you use? Simple swap? Any fiddling or hack required? Thanks in advance!

The upgrade wasn't too tough. Remember to format the drive. Here are the specific details that both you and wajo asked for:

Installing/Upgrading 2160A to 500G w/ HDP725050GLA360 (Hitachi Desktar)


Some extra Precautions:

1. It's always good to wipedown/clean the area you will be working on before you start.
2. Try to work in a low/no static area. It is also a good idea to touch the case BEFORE touching anything inside it (in order to discharge any existing static on your body).

Warning:

1. By removing original drive, you will not be able to access existing information/data stored on it (recordings, etc). However, if you choose to re-install the drive, the information/data should still be in tact.
2. Opening up this unit will void the warranty.


Instructions:

1. Unplug the 2160A for at least 10 minutes

2. Remove case (cover) screws: There will be 5 to remove from the back, and 2 to remove from the side

3. Pull outer case (cover) toward the back of the unit to remove it.

4. Gently pull away the data cable that is taped to the top of the hard drive. (You just want to temporarily remove it from the TOP of the drive).

At this point, leave all cable connections alone. Take a look at the hardrive connection. Notice that it is NOT connected to standard SATA cable, but rather to an adapter.

5. Remove the drive bracket screws (3 screws from mainboard)

6. Lift up drive bracket and remove electrical tape (located on bottom of bracket, holding adapter and bracket together)

7. Disconnect SATA ADAPTER (NOT CABLES) from original drive.

8. Unscrew drive and replace with new drive. (side note: these screws can be kind of tough to get out) Use original screws to attach new drive to bracket.

9. Attach SATA ADAPTER to new drive. Use electrical tape to fasten to bracket (as originally done) to hold it in place.

10. Set drive bracket back on mainboard and fasten it using the 3 original screws.

11. Press the data cable (from step 4) onto new drive (it should still be sticky enough to hold in place)

12. Replace original cover and screws.

Power on 2160A and use the SKIP 079 method to test the hdd cable connections. If everything is okay, press the OK button to format your new drive. (side note: "SKIP" is labelled as "V. SKIP" on remote control). Once formatted (assuming you turned your unit back on), press HDD and record a small clip of anything (10 sec will do). This will initialize/activate the drive (so that the HDD menu shows up). Enjoy!

Actually, they do. The Jitterbug phone (aka fogey fone) has no camera, no email, no texting function and it even has a real DIAL TONE. My wife and I could no longer read the buttons or screens on our TracFones so we went with Jitterbug.

$147 for the phone? Wow. I paid $30 for a Moto V195s. Not fancy by any means, but reception is excellent. I do like to use its calculator when shopping. Something tells me the Jitterbug doesn't have a calculator.

I'm kind of shocked our senior citizens are willing to part with that much scratch up front. Their rates are 20 - 30 cents per minute for their "cheap" plans, too. Not good. I'm more of a prepaid guy, anyway. I don't have to worry about monthly bills or expired minutes. Oh well...guess I'll put up with the T mobile scam until something better comes along. Thanks, though.

That is a very well written, thorough walk-through/explanation of things wajo. Thanks for posting the link. Although I may need the "dummies guide" version.

I wonder how long college bb games are with all commercials/half-time cut out. It would be great to record in all HQ, though I highly doubt the full recording would fit on DVD. One thing I noticed with the HTPC (using PVR-150) was the wider the shot the worse the quality and the smaller the players the higher the distortion of picture/movement. Similar to what stated in the linked post about the football field.

I'll have to look your post over again to figure out a good way to do things. Thanks again for the tips.

Newegg is still sold out of the "GLA" and it looks like the "SLA" is not even available on the market. I did a few searches and couldn't find it. Going by these specs, it appears the SLA can handle more mileage. It's good to know that Funai is packaging a more reliable drive. I guess you have to weigh the capacity factor with the reliability factor and make your decision.

To be honest, I didn't check the other capacity drives. I just did some searches for the 500G. Looking over things again, I may have searched for the wrong model number. DOH!! (For the SLA) Yeah, those reviews will not inspire too many customers to place orders.

As far as the GLA drive, time will tell. I'll be sure to post details if issues arise.

On the sports topic: I just recorded and edited the first game. Where is the WIN button on the remote control!!!!???? Joking. At SP, after editing, the game was a little over 3.3 gigs and ran slightly past 1 hr 1/2. There will be absolutely no way to record in HQ and fit on one disk (barring some real hardcore editing). However, since I'm using S-Video/composite audio this probably isn't that big of deal

Do you have to use a proprietory 160GB Hitachi HDD for a replacement in the 2160 or can you use any brand? I've had really good luck with WD in my PC's. Also aren't the newer 2160 SATA drives?

> Auskck used a Travelstar 5K500.B HTS545050B9A300 (0A57915)
> 500GB 5400 RPM (externally I think)

2.5" drives can be used internally.

> Do you have to use a proprietory 160GB Hitachi HDD for a
> replacement in the 2160 or can you use any brand?

Any drive will be fine, just be wary of power demands on higher capacity. Since you like WD, go for the 3.5" greens.

The WD Scorpio Blue 500GB notebook SATA drives work fine internally. A riser was needed because the PATA/SATA adapter clearance required mounting upside down. Screwed a 5/8" wood riser (about 2" x 3") to the mounting plate and velcroed the 2.5" to that.

The 2.5" internal is cooler, quieter, and uses less power than the 3.5" but is a more expensive solution. My experience with consumer electronics power supplies is why spending the extra seemed worthwhile.

Just a quick note off subject for you OTA viewers. Check this out! It's the Echostar TR50 available at Sears as the DTVPal DVR. Looks like the ticket for OTA viewers. It records in SD or HD and has a TV schedule. NO FEES!

BTW I've had few problems with my H2160WV9. Any questions/problems I've had have been solved by coming here.
Thank you.

For anyone thinking about the Pal, you should first read this thread and maybe this long thread. It's definitely a buyer beware product IMO but buying from Sears protects you a little bit if you don't like it.

The list of negatives makes this look problem free. You loose signal for a few seconds and the whole recording gets dumped. How dumb is that?

On another note, it is appearing by using 4X RW media (minus or plus), this recording problem (notice I said recording, not playback since it isn't only on one player where the problems shows), seems to have been reduced to the first second or two of playback. Within two seconds, the playback will 'lock up' correctly, playing the video without any 'hiccups'. I had some store brand plus and minus RWs' that I decided to try and after viewing a few of them for only a couple of minutes, the studdering playback clears up after a second or two. Though, if you FF or skip ahead and then resume playback, it still takes a second or two to regain sync again.

Question is, is it because there are RWs', or is it because they are only 4x?

Separate question;
I do NOT have the clock set on the recorder. The listings for recordings on the HDD do not show the time & date. But, on the burned DVD, there is a default date of Jan 1 08 showing. Is there any way to prevent this?

please tell us what problems u had....and what solved them....

update on my 2160A.

Before returning i wanted to try another unit from wal-mart. wal-mart site-to-store took 15 days to deliver. I hooked up wal-mart unit, it works same as J&R unit. no surprise there. Few channels received as scrambled signal, here is my comcast channel lineup http://www.silicondust.com/hdhomerun...lineup_1119627, all are recieved by 3576H but not by 2160A.

I returned wal-mart unit, J&R customer service is great. got free return shipping label. if anyone want this unit in bayarea, want to pickup, PM me.

I just wanted to thank everyone for their help and advice on the Maggie 2160. I ordered it today, for Christmas for my wife, from Walmart with the free shipping to the store for pickup. I received an email saying it will arrive at the store between December 1-4. So if anyone is going to order one for Christmas I would recommend ordering it now. I'm just wondering when the warranty will start? Will it be the order date, today, or the day I pick it up at the store? The reason I am having it shipped to the store is just in case it arrives damaged. So after Christmas I'm sure I will have more questions for the forum.