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Mitsubishi WD-XX735,736 and 835 Settings and Tweaks - Page 5

post #121 of 795
8/26/08 at 7:13pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by MadsenD View Post

This may be useful to some that are trying to dial in their colors a bit better using the service menu controls. After playing around with the controls a bit I was able to get a general feel for how each of the settings affected the color coordinates.

For each color there are 3 individual controls for what I'm assuming is gain, saturation, and hue. You'll want to use these settings to help bring the colors in to the reference levels.

GL - The gain control will control the luminance (or Y) value of the selected color. This doesn't change the x,y coordinates much but will have a definate impact on the luminance. The corresponding PerfectColor seems to control the same thing this service menu control does, but at a larger granularity and with a different range. This is the control that affects the brightness of a given color.

SL - This controls the saturation, or amount of color at any given brightness. As you drop this control to 0, the color will shift toward a shade of grey at a similar brightness. If you are looking at the colors on the CIE94 plot, this controls effect will seem to move the colors coordinates inward toward the white point.

HL - on the CIE94 plot the hue control will adjust the angle of the color from white. For those with PerfectTint controls, this is probably similar to adjusting that.

If you imagine there being a circle placed with it's center at the white point, the hue will adjust the color along the circumference of the circle, while saturation will adjust the radius.

I'm not an expert or professional calibrator so YMMV, but after entering and exiting the service menu many many times (and this is quite tedious!) in the process of my calibration this is how I saw the x,y points behaving after changing the service menu controls.

Madsend,

Good explanation - makes things clearer to me. Also good tips on how to use each control.

Have only used saturation and hue in service menu with pretty poor results.

Haven't used Gain in service menu at all. Also haven't used 'perfect tint' but will try tomorrow.
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post #122 of 795
8/26/08 at 9:41pm
Oh boy.. Twas a wonderful night as about 2 hours ago I ordered the 60735 to be delivered free on Sep 2 (for 1350!!) then I rushed to avsforums of course to read more.. Don't get me wrong, still extremely stoked to be replacing my all too soon-failing Hitachi 57f59 set, but it looks like I've got my work cut out for me to make this thing look its best..

I've read the entire thread and was hopin for some out of the box settings that will at least get this baby lookin good for the beginning of football season until it breaks in and I can tweak further. Maybe I missed em, I was reading fast, but seem to only remember deeper SM tweaks. TIA
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post #123 of 795
8/27/08 at 6:51am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by billyboygolf View Post

ksbarnz

Thanks for that specific advice.

I've been using saturation and hue in the service menu -for exaple SRH + HRH for Red to adjust the x and y coordinates for Red (SGH + HGH for Green and so on). That's all - nothing else. Is that right? Should I also use 'perfect color' and 'perfect tint' to adjust x and y coordinates for each color?

I didn't look at the Y value (luminance) of each color at all . So 'perfect color' will adjust the Y value up or down - correct?

How do I tell if the Y value is high or low for that color - how do I know what it should be?

Thanks, Bill


Here is what you are going to try and adjust each color to.

Rec. 709 (High Definition)
--------------x-------y-------Y
Red----------0.640---0.330---0.2127
Green--------0.300---0.600---0.7151
Blue----------0.150---0.060---0.0722
Yellow--------0.419---0.505---0.9278
Cyan---------0.225---0.329---0.7873
Magenta------0.321---0.154---0.2849
White--------0.3127--0.329---1.0


The chart shows the x y and Y value for each color. I'd start with Perfect Tint to try and dial in each color's xy value but it might take a combination of Perfect Tint and the service menu to get it perfect. Use Perfect Color to dial in the Y value for each color. To find the Y value for each color take a 100% white reading and look at it's Y value. Now multiply this value by the Y value in the above chart. The result is the Y value you are shooting for for that color.

To make it easier to calibrate a color, show a 100% color window from you calibration disk and pause it. Start taking a continuous reading with ColorHCFR and start making your adjustments and notice how they affect the xyY values for each color. Once you start to get a feel for how to adjust them it should go pretty smooth, but it will definitely take some time.
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post #124 of 795
8/27/08 at 7:23am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hagfish View Post

Oh boy.. Twas a wonderful night as about 2 hours ago I ordered the 60735 to be delivered free on Sep 2 (for 1350!!) then I rushed to avsforums of course to read more.. Don't get me wrong, still extremely stoked to be replacing my all too soon-failing Hitachi 57f59 set, but it looks like I've got my work cut out for me to make this thing look its best..

I've read the entire thread and was hopin for some out of the box settings that will at least get this baby lookin good for the beginning of football season until it breaks in and I can tweak further. Maybe I missed em, I was reading fast, but seem to only remember deeper SM tweaks. TIA

Honestly out of the box every set is different, but so far none have seemed to be close to correct, color wise. You might start with these settings until you can calibrate your set.

Color Temp: Low
DeepField Imager: Off
Contrast: Somwhere between 45-50 (whatever looks good to you)
Picture Mode: Natural

Without a colorimeter or color filters it might be hard to tell how far your colors are off. There really has not been any "rhyme or reason" to these sets colors, just that most of they have been pretty far off. These settings above should make it look better than what it does out of the box.
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post #125 of 795
8/27/08 at 7:30am
my Eye one lt is not giving me consistent readings across different calibration sessions. I get it perfect one day than go back the next and the measurements will be different by a good amount. is anyone else experiencing this. how can i know whats accurate if the eye one gives different readings each day.
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post #126 of 795
8/27/08 at 7:43am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cid67 View Post

my Eye one lt is not giving me consistent readings across different calibration sessions. I get it perfect one day than go back the next and the measurements will be different by a good amount. is anyone else experiencing this. how can i know whats accurate if the eye one gives different readings each day.

You might have a bad i1. My readings are different each time but they are by a very small amount. What mode are you taking readings in CRT/LCD in ColorHCFR?
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post #127 of 795
8/27/08 at 3:37pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ksbarnz View Post

Honestly out of the box every set is different, but so far none have seemed to be close to correct, color wise. You might start with these settings until you can calibrate your set.

Color Temp: Low
DeepField Imager: Off
Contrast: Somwhere between 45-50 (whatever looks good to you)
Picture Mode: Natural

Without a colorimeter or color filters it might be hard to tell how far your colors are off. There really has not been any "rhyme or reason" to these sets colors, just that most of they have been pretty far off. These settings above should make it look better than what it does out of the box.

Thanks for the quick tips! Will brightness and sharpness be cranked on this thing by default or pretty acceptable?
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post #128 of 795
8/27/08 at 4:57pm
Quote:


You might have a bad i1. My readings are different each time but they are by a very small amount. What mode are you taking readings in CRT/LCD in ColorHCFR?

I use LCD. I tried crt but it wouldn't calibrate because it tries to detect the crt refresh rate and fails. how did you get your Eye one to read in crt mode?

perhaps the inconsistency has something to do with the lcd mode. The constant reading mode tends to lock randomly, especially with very bright patterns. it does come back eventually but it sometimes takes a few minutes. I wonder if this problem is linked to my inconstant readings.

its funny, I don't believe this was always happening but it could just be that the inconsistency of the readings only sometimes happens between sessions.
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post #129 of 795
8/27/08 at 5:31pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cid67 View Post

I use LCD. I tried crt but it wouldn't calibrate because it tries to detect the crt refresh rate and fails. how did you get your Eye one to read in crt mode?

perhaps the inconsistency has something to do with the lcd mode. The constant reading mode tends to lock randomly, especially with very bright patterns. it does come back eventually but it sometimes takes a few minutes. I wonder if this problem is linked to my inconstant readings.

its funny, I don't believe this was always happening but it could just be that the inconsistency of the readings only sometimes happens between sessions.

My i1 would freeze also when in lcd mode. Almost to the point where it was unusable. Switching to CRT fixed the problem, and I was able to get constant readings which also matched the lcd readings.

Strange, I don't know why yours will not work in crt mode? When you say it won't calibrate, is it the initial calibration where you put up a 100 percent white screen to calibrate the i1?

I didn't do anything on the back end to make my i1 work in CRT mode. I wonder of others here are switching their i1's to CRT or are able to use them in LCD mode.
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post #130 of 795
8/27/08 at 7:05pm
I had the same lockup issues with the i1 running in LCD mode. Switching to CRT and calibrating it on a 100% white screen fixed those lockups.
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post #131 of 795
8/27/08 at 7:43pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by cid67 View Post

I use LCD. I tried crt but it wouldn't calibrate because it tries to detect the crt refresh rate and fails. how did you get your Eye one to read in crt mode?

perhaps the inconsistency has something to do with the lcd mode. The constant reading mode tends to lock randomly, especially with very bright patterns. it does come back eventually but it sometimes takes a few minutes. I wonder if this problem is linked to my inconstant readings.

its funny, I don't believe this was always happening but it could just be that the inconsistency of the readings only sometimes happens between sessions.

LCD mode was locking up and driving me nuts.

I couldn't get my i1 to calibrate for CRT mode either if using a 100% white screen (on TV). Think it said "couldn't detect refresh rate".

Then noticed that my PC was displaying a white downsized box (not fullscreen)when attempting to use CRT mode so I put the i1 against it (on PC) and that worked fine for me.
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post #132 of 795
8/27/08 at 7:57pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ksbarnz View Post

My i1 would freeze also when in lcd mode.

I assume that you are using HCFR. It is a bug in the software.
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post #133 of 795
8/27/08 at 9:23pm
Second calibration results

This one came out way better, thanks to everyones tips and advice!

Decided to have another shot at calibrating everything in 'Brilliant' mode since I like the brighter picture. Seems that these sets still look good like that - unlike my 06' Mits. Left the contrast up at 45 this time which gave me around 75ftL on a 100% white screen - way above recommended I know but it didn't cause any problems.

Used GRH + GBH for upper end and BMR + BMB for low end of greyscale.

Did the luminance on all colors first this time using mostly 'Perfect Color'. Tweaked the service menu gains a few times but not much.

Adjusted xy of colors with 'Perfect Tint' first and then saturation and hue in service menu after that. That was good advice - ksbarnz. Definitely the most tedious part tho.

How does it look? Really nice! Natural skin tones, just natural looking scenes -no neon out-of-place colors.

With such a high contrast setting I left Deep Field Imager on. With that on I didn't lose "lighter details into white" (white clipping) as the manual says or have trouble getting a flat greyscale. So you definitely can have a brighter picture and still get an accurate calibration.

Any comments or advice are welcome.

Attachment 118018

 

after greyscale calibration 2.zip 3.517578125k . file
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post #134 of 795
8/28/08 at 5:24am
I had previously reported that after calibration with my Blu-ray player the colors were off for my DVR. I am pleased to say, after recalibrating correctly this time, the same color settings look great for all inputs. My first calibration, incorrectly, did not include all three color components.
I also have had computer lockups especially reading the secondary colors. It’s good to know it’s just a software glitch with HCFR.
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post #135 of 795
8/28/08 at 6:16am
I wish i could afford calman but starting at around 150 bucks ts hard to swallow.

Strange that some of us can use the crt mode and some of us get the cant detect crt refresh rate error I assume its supposed to say that on non crt screens.
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post #136 of 795
8/28/08 at 7:16am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cid67 View Post

I wish i could afford calman but starting at around 150 bucks ts hard to swallow.

Strange that some of us can use the crt mode and some of us get the cant detect crt refresh rate error I assume its supposed to say that on non crt screens.

I completely agree. I thought about CalMan as well but couldn't justify spending the money on it. I'm going to post in the ColorHCFR thread in display calibration to see if we can get some help on this. I know there is a new beta coming out and maybe it addresses this problem.
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post #137 of 795
8/28/08 at 9:03am
Hey guy. I've had my 73835 for about a week and a half now. Out of the box, it was obviously off, so for the time being, I grabbed a DVD with a set of basic THX test patterns and attempted to tweak. It improved things by about half a frogs hair. I tweaked a little more by eye and got an acceptable picture considering. Well, my copy of DVE on Blu-ray came in yesterday, so I started tweaking last night(BTW, I am going to have the set ISF calibrated). I used my PS3 hooked up via HDMI(BTW, PS3 won't do blacker-than-black).

So, on my first attempt, I use the NATURAL setting and COLOR TEMP: HIGH. I set the brightness and contrast(setting contrast seems very tricky with these sets because no matter what, you still see everything and the extremes). I then move on to COLOR. I use the blue filter and with the COLOR and TINT adjustments I get everything close, then I move on to PERFECT COLOR and PERFECT TINT to dial-in the colors that aren't displaying properly. After getting everything to display properly with the blue filter, I move on to the red filter and repeat untill they're right. Go back to blue and tweak again. At this point, with both the blue and red filters, everything is "perfect". Now to the green filter. Holly crap!!! CYAN is the only color to disappear. GREEN will pretty much blend in if you crank it all the way, but then it becomes neon. Blue will turn black, but only turned down all the way, which obviously isn't right and the rest are off, too. Not even RED looks black-black. For the time being, I gave up on the green filter and started playing the test/demo material. It looked pretty good, so I applied these settings to my DirectTV HD DVR input as well. I pop in a Blu-ray(Pirates of the Carribean 2) and skin tones are way off in most circumstance, major YELLOW push(you'll see why on my settings below) and most scenes are taking on a yellow tint. I flip over the the satellite input and it's the same thing. I dial yellow back on the satellite input and it looks a little better, but still far from right.
Settings:
NATURAL
COLOR TEMP: HIGH
BRIGHTNESS: 30
CONTRAST:28
COLOR:44
TINT:37
PERFECT COLOR/PERFECT TINT
M:46/57
R:28/33
Y:44/31
G:32/31
C:31/31
B:30/31

So, I try again with COLOR TEMP: LOW. And for the record, if LOW is anywhere even remotely close to 6500K on my set, I'm going straight to the eye doctor. I'm a cameraman and I have two proffesional HD monitors I use in the field, so I know what a proper picture should look like . Once again, I was able to get everything "perfect" with the BLUE and RED filters, but with the GREEN filter, nothing except CYAN would line up. This time around, skin tones look much better, but WHITES are "dirty" and too warm and the overall picture, especially on the satellite is too warm and looks "dirty". I toggle back and forth with HIGH and LOW color temp settings and going back to HIGH improves the overall look and brings whites closer back to white, but then skin tones go to hell again at times. Again, the demo material on the disk looke pretty good, but when playing movies and sattellite, it doesn't.

Settings:
NATURAL
COLOR TEMP: LOW
BRIGHTNESS: 30
CONTRAST: 28
COLOR:28
TINT:27

PERFECT COLOR/PERFECT TINT
M: 43/16
R: 39/31
Y: 37/31
G: 31/31
C:31/31
B:31/31

I know that these sets are way off out-of-the-box and need professional calibration, but I'm hoping to get a good picture to hold me over till I can get a calibrator to adjust it. Any thoughts or ideas about how I may be able to dial the color in a little closer without getting into the service menu(I don't have any of the proper instuments or hardware). It really bothers me that i can get the colors to line-up under the BLUE and RED filters but under GREEN it's sooo off.

Also, does anyone know the proper codes and keys/key sequences to use to adjust geometry/keystone and over/underscan?

Thanks...
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post #138 of 795
8/28/08 at 12:28pm
How does the Eye-One LT work with a MacBook OS 10.5? I have BootCamp hooked up and can use Windows XP Home with the MacBook if needed.
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post #139 of 795
8/28/08 at 7:28pm
Hey guy. I've had my 73835 for about a week and a half now. Out of the box, it was obviously off, so for the time being, I grabbed a DVD with a set of basic THX test patterns and attempted to tweak. It improved things by about half a frogs hair. I tweaked a little more by eye and got an acceptable picture considering. Well, my copy of DVE on Blu-ray came in yesterday, so I started tweaking last night(BTW, I am going to have the set ISF calibrated). I used my PS3 hooked up via HDMI(BTW, PS3 won't do blacker-than-black).

So, on my first attempt, I use the NATURAL setting and COLOR TEMP: HIGH. I set the brightness and contrast(setting contrast seems very tricky with these sets because no matter what, you still see everything at the extremes). I then move on to COLOR. I use the blue filter and with the COLOR and TINT adjustments I get everything close, then I move on to PERFECT COLOR and PERFECT TINT to dial-in the colors that aren't displaying properly. After getting everything to display properly with the blue filter, I move on to the red filter and repeat until they're right. Go back to blue and tweak again. At this point, with both the blue and red filters, everything is "perfect". Now to the green filter. Holly crap!!! CYAN is the only color to disappear. GREEN will pretty much blend in if you crank it all the way, but then it becomes neon. Blue will turn black, but only turned down all the way, which obviously isn't right and the rest are off, too. Not even RED looks black-black. For the time being, I gave up on the green filter and started playing the test/demo material. It looked pretty good, so I applied these settings to my DirectTV HD DVR input as well. I pop in a Blu-ray(Pirates of the Caribbean 2) and skin tones are way off in most circumstance, major YELLOW push(you'll see why on my settings below) and most scenes are taking on a yellow tint. I flip over to the satellite input and it's the same thing. I dial yellow back on the satellite input and it looks a little better, but still far from right.
Settings:
NATURAL
COLOR TEMP: HIGH
BRIGHTNESS: 30
CONTRAST:28
COLOR:44
TINT:37
PERFECT COLOR/PERFECT TINT
M:46/57
R:28/33
Y:44/31
G:32/31
C:31/31
B:30/31
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post #140 of 795
8/28/08 at 7:28pm
So, I try again with COLOR TEMP: LOW. And for the record, if LOW is anywhere even remotely close to 6500K on my set, I'm going straight to the eye doctor. I'm a cameraman and I have two professional HD monitors I use in the field, so I know what a proper picture should look like . Once again, I was able to get everything "perfect" with the BLUE and RED filters, but with the GREEN filter, nothing except CYAN would line up. This time around, skin tones look much better, but WHITES are "dirty" and too warm and the overall picture, especially on the satellite is too warm and looks "dirty". I toggle back and forth with HIGH and LOW color temp settings and going back to HIGH improves the overall look and brings whites closer back to white, but then skin tones go to hell again at times. Again, the demo material on the disk looks pretty good, but when playing movies and satellite, it doesn't.

Settings:
NATURAL
COLOR TEMP: LOW
BRIGHTNESS: 30
CONTRAST: 28
COLOR:28
TINT:27

PERFECT COLOR/PERFECT TINT
M:43/16
R:39/31
Y:37/31
G:31/31
C:31/31
B:31/31

I know that these sets are way off out-of-the-box and need professional calibration, but I'm hoping to get a good picture to hold me over till I can get a calibrator to adjust it. Any thoughts or ideas about how I may be able to dial the color in a little closer without getting into the service menu(I don't have any of the proper instuments or hardware). It really bothers me that i can get the colors to line-up under the BLUE and RED filters but under GREEN it's sooo off.

Also, does anyone know the proper codes and keys/key sequences to use to adjust geometry/keystone and over/underscan?

Thanks...
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post #141 of 795
8/28/08 at 8:43pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Run&Gun View Post

So, I try again with COLOR TEMP: LOW. And for the record, if LOW is anywhere even remotely close to 6500K on my set, I'm going straight to the eye doctor. I'm a cameraman and I have two professional HD monitors I use in the field, so I know what a proper picture should look like . Once again, I was able to get everything "perfect" with the BLUE and RED filters, but with the GREEN filter, nothing except CYAN would line up. This time around, skin tones look much better, but WHITES are "dirty" and too warm and the overall picture, especially on the satellite is too warm and looks "dirty". I toggle back and forth with HIGH and LOW color temp settings and going back to HIGH improves the overall look and brings whites closer back to white, but then skin tones go to hell again at times. Again, the demo material on the disk looks pretty good, but when playing movies and satellite, it doesn't.

Filters are for setting color decoding controls only. They have nothing to do with setting the gray scale.

Use the Green filter to set the brightness of green and the hue of yellow. Use the Red filter to set the brightness of red and the hue of magenta. Use the Blue filter to set the brightness of blue and the hue of cyan. The remaining adjustments: gamma, grayscale, hue of primaries, brightness of secondaries, and saturation of all colors requires calibration equipment and expertise.
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post #142 of 795
8/28/08 at 9:05pm
Thanks Tom. I figured that I was probably stuck without getting into the service menu to make "real" adjustments, which I don't have the equipment to do properly.

I have a little over 50 hours on my set now. How long should I wait until I have it calibrated? I've seen posts saying anywhere from 100 hours, to some saying at least 200 hours...
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post #143 of 795
8/29/08 at 3:32am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Run&Gun View Post

Thanks Tom. I figured that I was probably stuck without getting into the service menu to make "real" adjustments, which I don't have the equipment to do properly.

I have a little over 50 hours on my set now. How long should I wait until I have it calibrated? I've seen posts saying anywhere from 100 hours, to some saying at least 200 hours...

75-100 is what I usually recommend.
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post #144 of 795
8/29/08 at 1:45pm
OK, please help me with this.

All the H (hue as we're told) settings start at 0 (zero). You cannot move this to less than zero (at least on my 65736) but you can increase the number. As such, doesn't this mean that that hue can only be corrected in one direction? You can increase the number (which should shift the color in one direction, say green towards yellow), but you can't decrease the number--which would shift the color in the opposite direction, say green towards blue.

Doesn't really make sense to me.
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post #145 of 795
8/30/08 at 6:56am
sdickins, It may not be a problem for you. My calibration resulted in all 6 H(hue) values increasing from zero.
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post #146 of 795
9/2/08 at 8:39am
Thread Starter 
The past weekend I was able to calibrate my WD-65736 with CalMan and I can tell you the results compared to ColorHCFR are much more accurate. I am also happy to report that the freezing problems we were having with ColorHCFR are non-existent in CalMan, which dramatically reduced calibration time. The program is also very user friendly and recommends what to adjust, which takes most of the guesswork out of calibrating. One thing that really surprised me was how different the readings were between the two programs. The readings were so different that I actually reset my TV to the factory settings and started from scratch with CalMan. After testing the settings recommended by each program I think CalMan looks much more natural and shadow detail could not be better. I hadn't noticed it before, but blues seemed to be over exaggerated and colors seemed a little "muddy" when viewing my set with the settings I came up with when calibrating with ColorHCFR after viewing with my CalMan settings.

I'll be updating my the first post of this thread with my CalMan settings and will be removing my ColorHCFR settings since I do not think they are accurate now. Yes, they did make my set look much better compared to the out of the box settings, but after calibrating with CalMan I now know that my set is as close to perfect as I can get it. I knew the results were pretty dramatic when my wife even commented on how good the picture looked over the weekend! I highly recommend this program to anyone, and if you do go the CalMan route I'd be glad to help if you run into any problems calibrating your new Mitsubishi.
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post #147 of 795
9/2/08 at 12:04pm
ksbarnz, I’m glad to see you posted your CalMan observations in the Display Calibration area. Hopefully one of the experts will reply.
I’m surprised that there is a significant difference. It’s hard to imagine the results being better than the HCFR results. I don’t think I’ve ever seen a TV look any better than mine looks today.
I guess I’ll have to give CalMan a try. Did you use the trial version?
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post #148 of 795
9/2/08 at 12:12pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by vandu View Post

ksbarnz, I'm glad to see you posted your CalMan observations in the Display Calibration area. Hopefully one of the experts will reply.
I'm surprised that there is a significant difference. It's hard to imagine the results being better than the HCFR results. I don't think I've ever seen a TV look any better than mine looks today.
I guess I'll have to give CalMan a try. Did you use the trial version?

No, it was the full version. The trial version only lets you try the program with a simulated meter. The way I look at it is that it is still cheaper than having someone come out and calibrate and you can calibrate anytime you need to. Plus with CalMAN you know that you are getting correct readings. They are an OEM reseller of X-Rite, (i1), which allows them access to x-rite's advanced development tools, which could explain the difference between the two programs. I was really surprised also with the difference between the programs. I thought my set looked good with ColorHCFR but after using CalMAN I could see the difference.
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post #149 of 795
9/2/08 at 12:19pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ksbarnz View Post

No, it was the full version. The trial version only lets you try the program with a simulated meter. The way I look at it is that it is still cheaper than having someone come out and calibrate and you can calibrate anytime you need to. Plus with CalMAN you know that you are getting correct readings. They are an OEM reseller of X-Rite, (i1), which allows them access to x-rite's advanced development tools, which could explain the difference between the two programs. I was really surprised also with the difference between the programs. I thought my set looked good with ColorHCFR but after using CalMAN I could see the difference.

Was it easier to use? Did it give user friendly names, or were there the ultrachromafish levels that are mentioned through here?

So how much is this I1 (eye one) piece of kit?

With the sw costing 199, it's only 100 out of having someone come out and do it for you.

How often are you planning on using the unit?

This kind of puts a dent in the shine of doing it yourself.

Seggers
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post #150 of 795
9/2/08 at 12:26pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by seggers View Post

Was it easier to use? Did it give user friendly names, or were there the ultrachromafish levels that are mentioned through here?

So how much is this I1 (eye one) piece of kit?

With the sw costing 199, it's only 100 out of having someone come out and do it for you.

How often are you planning on using the unit?

This kind of puts a dent in the shine of doing it yourself.

Seggers

The i1 is around 140. You might be able to find it for cheaper by searching online. With a bulb based DLP you are supposed to calibrate as the bulb life lengthens due to dimming and you are also supposed to calibrate after a bulb change. At least from what I have read. I also plan on calibrating my bedroom TV as well so from my stand point the software more than pays for itself.

CalMAN is very easy to use. It actually has a basic, intermediate, and advanced mode to select from when calibrating. The basic and intermediate give you step by step instructions on what to adjust, (hue, color, etc.).
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