"Official" Denon AVR 2809CI/989 Thread - Page 52

I've taken a peek at that and it is very informative. I will be reading it over the next few days. I notice in it that you are from San Diego. That's my home town. Born and raised there till my wife and I left for my job transfer. Now we're in Arkansas. Boy, what a change.

Go Chargers!

That short post above about selections you make depending on the source is quite helpful.

How do I reset to factory defaults guys? Thanks in advance.

hah! I might be around your way sometime soon, the wife's family is all from Arkansas (although she grew up in northern Virginia). Dad's from Arkadelphia, Mom's from Stuttgart...

That did the trick, thankyou.

I just ran audyssey and obtained the settings below.
My current setup is 5.1 with athena towers for fronts
and regular athena speakers all around and an svs pb13 ultra sub.
Should I adjust the fronts to small or change any of the other settings?
Also I'm curious if I should leave the sub at "LFE+Main" or change it to only "LFE?"

It helps when speaker model numbers are posted, however, based on what I could pull up, those crossover settings are probably 20db too low, and in the case of the "satellites", 60db too low (unless they are bookshelf as well). Did you run Audyssey at all 8 positions? I'd suggest running it again, and as most would agree, your towers should be set to SMALL. With all speakers set to SMALL, the LFE setting is moot.

Hi cudwortho,

by coincidence I've got the same 40Hz XO setting for the S/SB channels (JBL E-30's), but I then readjusted to 80Hz though.

As for the SW (SVS PB-10), I initially got 80Hz, but after some listening I readjusted up to 100Hz and it's all fine now for my listening tastes.

I'd also suggest you to leave the SW setting in LFE only.

Regards, Chuck

Edit:

I forgot to mention, but you better set the fronts to small either.
As for the XO, listen to them at 80Hz initially and then to 60Hz, as to cross-check final results. The 40Hz XO setting, as per Audyssey, seems too low, IMO, but YMMV.

Hi all,

I just joined the 2809 family this week. My new "baby" arrived Tuesday, and I am waiting for my new DefTechs to arrive (likely tomorrow). I will be playing around this weekend...like another Christmas morning for me (not so much so for may wife ).

I've been reading a lot about placing the 2809 in enclosures, and I wanted to get some thoughts on what I'm "stuck" with. My houes was purchased with a built-in entertainment center. The shelves under the TV are enclosed around the sides and rear, and have doors on the front with some lattice-looking screens in a wood door frame. It seems to allow for good circulation while hiding all of the equipment (although I would prefer to have the Denon out to look at....). If the Denon is on it's own shelf, would anyone imagine that I'd have any heat-related issues? I'd imagine I have 1" to 1.5" of clearance around each side. Thoughts?

Congrats and welcome. The Denon does not run hot in general but I think a few more details about your shelving would be helpful to us. Does the screening allow infrared to pass for the remote(s) or will doors be open during operation? How much air circulation does the screening allow if doors will be closed? Had any heat problems with other components? Do you mean only 1" clearance on top of the Denon?
You could also just monitor the unit's temp, even with your hand, as you operate it the first few times.

Hi Sound,

yeah, the doors allow IR signals. I keep the Tivo, cable box, and DVD player behind it with the doors closed. The cable box runs hot all of the time, but it's an old POS that I will likely be upgrading to the newer HD Comcast box.

I would likely have a couple of inches free above the top of the Denon...tough to tell until I get it in there and set everything up. I'll keep a close watch on it and I can always add a quiet fan back there if it gets too hot. At first glance, I would think there is enough room for circulation. I'll post some pics when I have a chance.

I have this fan installed in my equipment cabinet, and it can't be heard running. It's there just to keep air circulating, and turns on with the receiver.
http://www.coolerguys.com/sff21.html

So I just picked the 2809 yesterday and am really impressed with it. It was an upgrade from my "old" 2308 hehe. The audio sounds amazing, but I really have some issues with the video and it's driving me nuts. Please bear with the long post.

First, here's the components -
Panasonic TH-50PHD7UY Plasma -This is the "industrial" model, so I have the TY-FB7HM add-in HDMI board (HDMI ver. 1.1). Native resolution of the tv is 1366x768.
TiVo HD - Set to a fixed resolution of 720p
HTPC - Ubuntu 8.10 running XBMC with an ATI Radeon HD 3450. (Will be upgrading to an nVidia 9500GT tomorrow). Set to a fixed resolution of 1280x720. Only has HDMI & DVI outputs.
Denon 2908 - HDMI Color Space set to YCbCr, Video conversion enabled, i/p scaler set to A to H, Resolution set to 720p, Progressive Mode set to Auto, Aspect set to Full.
Nintendo Wii

Now the connections -
TiVo HD ---HDMI--->Denon 2809
HTPC------HDMI--->Denon 2809
Wii---Component--->Denon 2809
Denon-----HDMI--->Panasonic Plasma

...and the problem
The problem is that I'm getting a "No signal" display on the plasma when changing sources. I can be watching the Tivo fine and try to switch over to the HTPC and I lose signal. Sometimes I can get the signal back by power cycling the plasma or power cycling the Denon, but it's never consistent. What usually works the best is just powering everything off and back on...but even that isn't 100% foolproof. I'm guessing there's some sort of HDCP handshake issue somewhere.

What I've verified
1. Running the HTPC directly to the plasma with HDMI works fine.
2. Running the Tivo directly to the plasma with HDMI works fine.
3. Running the Tivo directly to the plasma with component works fine.
4. Tried the HDMI board in both slots of the Panny. No change.

What I'll be trying this afternoon
1. Running the Tivo to Denon with Component, HTPC to Denon with HDMI and Denon to Panny with HDMI
2. Running the TiVo to Denon with Component, HTPC to Denon with HDMI, and both Component/HDMI from the Denon to Panny.
3. Running the Tivo to Denon with HDMI and Denon to Panny with HDMI. Will have to leave the HTPC out of this test.

Other possible steps/questions
1. Replace HDMI board with DVI - I don't think this would help as the board works fine when the Denon is bypassed.
2. Run the HTPC with HDMI directly to the Panny and S/pdif to the Denon. Connect TiVo with component & optical to the Denon and then component from the Denon to Panny. What do I lose by using the s/pdif & optical audio connections?
3. Throw everything out the window and drink myself to death.

Anyone have any other suggestions or ideas? Thanks so much.

I did the same type of thing years ago with my current Sony receiver, bought a fan at Radio Shack and it plugs into a power outlet on the receiver so that it turns on when the receiver is on. I think I'll transfer it over to the new 2809 when it arrives.

The nice part about the linked fan is that you can't hear it at all. The 'muffin' fan that I used before could be heard within the cabinet, and at times was annoying.

Interesting, especially considering the low end spec on the JBL E-30 is 50hz, meaning the crossover should be no lower than 60hz. Did you run 8 positions as well? Also, AFAIK if all speakers are set to SMALL, the LFE and LFE+MAIN settings produce the same results.

Suggest you read through the last 10 or so pages and learn more about HDMI handshaking issues and the resolution.

I have this fan installed in my equipment cabinet, and it can't be heard running. It's there just to keep air circulating, and turns on with the receiver.
http://www.coolerguys.com/sff21.html
(from Post above)

Is this a 12 v or 120volt version, and how do you get it to turn on automatically ?

I've read the entire thread......I see no resolution.

12 volt fan and you also need to purchase the power supply. Plugs into the switched outlet on the rear of the receiver.

I just ran audyssey and obtained the settings below.
My current setup is 5.1 with athena towers for fronts
and regular athena speakers all around and an svs pb13 ultra sub.
Should I adjust the fronts to small or change any of the other settings?
Also I'm curious if I should leave the sub at "LFE+Main" or change it to only "LFE?"



Fronts - Athena F2.2

Rears - Athena B1.2

Center - Athena B2.2

Sub - PB13-Ultra

I ran Audyssey at 8 positions on my sofa.

The easiest resolution is to change to component cable.

Hmmm .. if you look at the freq specs for the surrounds, the low end starts at 60hz, so how would anything below that make any sense (if the mfr spec is correct)? The settings you ultimately use are based on your likes and dislikes alone. If you're looking for alternative settings, as suggested, set your MAINs to SMALL with crossover at 60hz and raise the Surround crossover to 80hz. Compare that to what you have now. Try some tweaking on your own as well as we cannot tell you what you prefer.

Were you using a tripod with the mic? Was it set at "ear" height for all 8 positions? Was each position taken within 1-2' of each other, all in the sofa area and at least 2' away from a back wall if the sofa is sitting against the back wall? Measurements don't have to be exact, but the closer to the ideal measurement taking as described in the Audyssey thread, the more accurate your Auto Setup numbers should be.

Obviously....but I'm trying to find out why I'm having the handshake issues.

But for the sake of my sanity, let's say I go ahead and do the following, what will I be missing by not using HDMI (beside the headaches).

HTPC - HDMI direct to TV, s/pdif to Denon
Tivo - Component to Denon, Optical to Denon
Wii - Component to Denon
Denon - will have component to TV

Thanks.

Check out the Audyssey FAQ on the Audyssey thread. It has a great step by step guide - it's VERY detailed.

Change from LFE+Main to LFE as you don't want bass coming from your mains. Make sure your mains crossover is 80Hz and don't ever move the crossovers lower than what Audyssey sets as it only corrects to what it sets or *higher*. I'd bump your mains and surrounds to 80Hz also. The Audyssey sub filter resolution is MUCH more detailed than the mains/satellites, so by going to 80Hz for all your speakers, you not only let the SVS do the heavy lifting, you let Audyssey flatten the SVS as much as possible. You also free up your amp to power the easier higher frequencies on your mains and not have to worry about the 20Hz-80Hz range.

Yeah,

I've found that kinda weird too and that's why I changed to 80Hz though.
Yes I did run the 8 positions with the mic. on a tripod and it was a breeze.

On the other hand, I've got 60Hz for the L/R and 90Hz for the CC (my front array has 03X SVS SCS-01), which seems to be spot on, but I was really surprised with the 40Hz on the E-30's

This new Audyssey seems to be much more accurate than the previous version on my ex-3806, as I could never get the speakers as small ones.
My current setting is 80Hz to all speakers + 100Hz on the SW and that seems to be my "sweet spot" in terms of speakers settings though.

It does seems logical to think that SMALL and LFE+MAIN produce the same results, but I can't tell you that for sure.
Someone would like to chime in on this particular?

Regards, Chuck

From one of batpig's earlier posts, quoting from the Audyssey website I believe:

Mains - Large
Sub - LFE
In this setup, the mains run full-range, no bass is redirected to the sub from the L/R channels. The sub only gets the LFE channel. The crossover setting in this setup is ignored.

Mains - Large
Sub - LFE+Mains
In this setup, the mains run full-range as before, the sub gets the LFE channel. However, in this arrangement the frequencies below the mains crossover setting are sent the mains AND the sub. This is the so-called "double bass."

Mains - Small
Sub - LFE or LFE+Mains doesn't matter
Here, the mains only play frequencies above whatever their crossover is set to. Anything below the crossover is redirected to the sub. The sub plays the LFE channel and the redirected bass from the mains regardless of what you set it to.

small vs. large is discussed in all the Audyssey FAQ's. Audyssey DOES NOT set your speakers to large! It just reports the measurements to the receiver and the receiver makes the setting based on its own internal logic:

http://www.audyssey.com/faq/index.html#largesmall

LFE vs. LFE+MAIN is the "double bass" setting for large speakers. It is irrelevant for speakers set to "small".
EDIT: Thanks JD, I was too lazy to look up that post. It's a quote from the Audyssey Official thread....

Aenima99x - I have a suspicion (since you are reporting handshake issues with all devices) that the problem is the 7UY's HDMI board being out-of-date at this point. Are you using the 7-series HDMI board I'm assuming?

Now it may not seem to make sense because there are no problems when you wire the HDMI directly to the panny, bypassing the AVR, but the problem with HDMI switching is that when you insert a third "switching" device in the middle you can get all sorts of new HDCP issues.

Unfortunately, the "crippled" HDMI implementation we get with all this HDCP handshake crap doesn't do that much to make our lives easier. IMO, for anything except blu ray / hd dvd players which have hi-res audio and true 1080p video, there is no point to using HDMI.

Anyway, here's a thought: have you tried turning off ancillary HDMI features like HDMI Control on your AVR? Trying to keep the HDMI "talking" as simple as possible may help.

When you get "no signal", does it ever come back or just stay blank forever? Does this happen only with HDMI>HDMI connections or also for component>HDMI connections?