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"Official" Denon AVR 2809CI/989 Thread - Page 185

post #5521 of 5668
Depends on your local market of course ... Dakmart wouldn't list it at $689 if it wasn't selling at that price. wink.gif
post #5522 of 5668
IMO Dakmart is overpriced, especially for older models like this. You can get a refurb 3312ci for $599 from accessories4less, which is the successor to the 2909ci but three generations newer. Even Dakmart lists the 3312ci for the same price as the 2809ci ($689), which doesn't make any sense.

I also don't see any eBay completed listing for $400 that actually sold. The last two sales have been for $260 and $340. There's been a couple of listings for $399 that went unsold. Obviously it depends on the used market in your area but in my experience, with the down economy, the market is a lot softer than you would expect and people are really looking for bargains, especially for something that is now 4 years old. But it really depends on how quick of a sale you want... if you are OK with letting it languish on craigslist for weeks or months, then go ahead and try to get more. I would bet you will have trouble getting more than $350, so keep your expectations realistic if you want a relatively quick sale.
post #5523 of 5668
I've got it listed at $395...fair and realistic starting price and I'll just have to ignore the usual craigslist "will you take $200" replies....

Thanks for your help guys.
post #5524 of 5668
You might want to PM the guy in this thread to see if he's still looking ...

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1418391/im-looking-for-a-denon-avr-2809-or-avr-989/0_100
post #5525 of 5668
anyone know where I can get a remote..my remote just went..replaced batteries but nothing. think it's dead. which universal remote will work? don't want to
spend too much money. I'm thinking a harmony remote but want to keep expenses low.
Edited by davide128 - 9/16/12 at 6:16pm
post #5526 of 5668
which model do you have, the 989 or 2809? They use different remotes.

I use a Harmony 670 remote with my Denon 989. Also tried it with my Harmony 650 which works too. I think the original remote sucks. It has two sides and a flip door on the back side.

they sell replacement remotes online. RC-1105 is for the 989.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Denon-RC-1105-Remote-Control-Part-307010021002D-/170808237426

http://remotecontrolmart.ecrater.com/p/14328537/denon-rc-1105-remote-control-part

http://www.remotehound.com/denon-replacement-remote/denon-rc-1105-remote.html

The 2809CI uses the RC-1102 remote which cost much more.
http://www.electronicadventure.us/Merchant2/merchant.mv?screen=prod&store_code=EA&product_code=RC-1102

http://www.newremotecontrol.com/denon/catalog_item.php?catnum=307010024001D

Found one used 1102 on Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0034J5WAM/ref=dp_olp_used?ie=UTF8&condition=used
post #5527 of 5668
I'm having an issue with my 2809ci. No sound and nothing on the display. I tried the microprocessor reset and all I got was a blinking HD and Audyssey light at about 2 second intervals. After about 7 or blinks it goes to a blank screen again.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
post #5528 of 5668
What happened leading up to this issue? Was it working one day and then not the next? Was there a recent thunder storm? If the entire front panel display isn't flashing when doing the reset procedure, it likely needs to be either repaired or replaced. Try doing the reset procedure a few more times. Otherwise, try popping the top of the AVR to see if there is anything unusual (eg. blown fuse).
post #5529 of 5668
Nothing unusual happened. No lightening storms....just worked one day and not the next. I'll try the reset a few more times and then lift the lid.

Thanks.
post #5530 of 5668
First off, I'm not much of a AV person, so my question is likely to come off as pretty basic to all you experts. But I appreciate your help.

I have a set up with a Denon AVR-2809CI connected via Component Video to a very high end Pioneer TV (sorry don't have the model number, looking for the manual, it's a four year old model, 1080). I know, it should be HDMI, but that's how it was wired in through the wall, and it's kind of a hassle to change it out right now. I also have a Blue Ray player connected to the Amp via component video.

I'd like to replace the 4-year old Blu Ray player with one of the new ones that offers the streaming apps, and WiFi connection. I had hoped that I could just buy a new player, pull the cables out of the old player, and swap in the new one. Then I'd have no potential configuration issues. But I see that none of these new players have component video connections, just HDMI. So I can't do that.

My question is, will I have any issues connecting a new Blu Ray player via HDMI to the appropriate ports on the Denon amp, and having it just work? Will I have to reconfig something? Will the video be degraded for some reason since it's HDMI to the amp, yet component from the Amp to the TV (I know it won't be the full experience, but would it downgrade all the way to 480 or something?)

To be clear, I really don't care about the Blu Ray so much, as I'm really more interested in getting the streaming apps. So I also wonder if I could/should just buy a Roku and connect it (only via HDMI as well it seems) to the amp. But would that work, without any major issues given my Amp it connected to the TV via HDMI?

Thanks very much.
post #5531 of 5668
unfortunately you will have issues because HDMI cannot be "downconverted" to component video output by the receiver. Even if you used component video from the BDP, modern players restrict analog video output to 480p because of the "analog sunset" rules. Basically, the content providers want to force you to use the digital HDMI connection to ensure digital copyright compliance.

if you can't change the wiring in-wall to add an HDMI video connection to the display, your best bet is to purchase an aftermarket HDMI>component video converter box (research HDFury) which will allow you to connect your component with HDMI and use the video switching and HDMI output of the AVR. Then, after the HDMI video signal leaves the AVR, it will be converted to component video to the display.
post #5532 of 5668
Thank you very much for the info, I really appreciate it. After considering all this, I think it's best I bite the bullet and and replace the Component Video in the wall with HDMI. I'm just putting bandaids on if I try and avoid doing this.
post #5533 of 5668
You can get quality in-wall certified HDMI cabling from forum sponsors Monoprice or Blue Jeans Cable. Also consider the new technology Redmere HDMI cables for lengths up to 65' otherwise consider adding an HDMI extender to your order if the cable length is > 20'. Also note that if you plan on upgrading the cable/sat box to HDMI as well, many have HDMI handshake issues that either require connecting the HDMI directly to the TV w/optical from the box to the AVR or connecting component/optical from the box to the AVR.
post #5534 of 5668
to add to JD's post, if you are going through the trouble of re-wiring the in wall cables (assuming it's at least somewhat of a PITA) build in redundancy, e.g. don't just run one HDMI cable, run TWO. It would suck if one failed and then you had to re-do it again, or if (as JD notes) you decide to run the cable box directly to the TV to avoid HDMI handshake problems. It might even be worth running an optical cable as well in case you want to pipe audio back from the TV.
post #5535 of 5668
i'd pull cat6 too as long as i was at it... just in case...
post #5536 of 5668
Thanks. Good idea to pull an extra hdmi.

What about this coming technology? HDbaseT
post #5537 of 5668
^^^

i am using that now, and it works VERY well... roughly 100' of cat6... no dropouts, no funky hdcp errors...

i have all my sources (except my disk spinner) remotely located... they feed a matrix switch... which feeds the hdbaset base unit (and another display downstairs)... hdbaset receiver into the avr.... avr out to a switch... switch out to the radiance and a 3dbee... both those out to the pj...

so while it's no guarantee you won't have issues with one, it works ok in my rather complicated setup...

i use the monoprice one with the built in network switch...
post #5538 of 5668
I just bought an Apple TV and want to hook it up my 2809CI. I know the receiver has a limited number of assignments, but I haven't found that in the manual yet. Anybody know the max number of assignments is? I really haven't done anyone thing with the receiver (except use it) for so long, I've forgotten how find and change things.

The AppleTV has an hdmi and optical outputs, of course I'd need to use the hdmi for video and sound.
post #5539 of 5668
And I've thought of another question: does this receiver support 3D? Considering it's age, I'm guessing not.
post #5540 of 5668
You guess correctly. 3D support started with the xx11 models.

I have no idea what you mean by the "number of assignments".
post #5541 of 5668
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Angell View Post

I just bought an Apple TV and want to hook it up my 2809CI. I know the receiver has a limited number of assignments, but I haven't found that in the manual yet. Anybody know the max number of assignments is? I really haven't done anyone thing with the receiver (except use it) for so long, I've forgotten how find and change things.
The AppleTV has an hdmi and optical outputs, of course I'd need to use the hdmi for video and sound.

Unless of course you want to pass the ATV audio to Zone 2, then you'd also need to connect an optical cable from the ATV to the AVR.
post #5542 of 5668
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

You guess correctly. 3D support started with the xx11 models.
I have no idea what you mean by the "number of assignments".
I finally found the spot in the manual that talks about it. On page 38 under item 8-"Assign Input sources to input connectors."

Here's my situation: the new DTV HR34 supports 3D, but this AVR does not, so I have to run the HDMI out of the HR34 directly to the TV. The HR34 has a coaxial digital out which I will connect to a digital coaxial input on the receiver. I will have to assign that coaxial input to an "Input Source", probably SAT. That's an assignment.

Here's what I'm asking: there are 3 digital coaxial inputs and 3 digital optical inputs. There are 4 HDMI inputs, and various other inputs on the back of the receiver. I believe their are fewer "Input Sources" than there are back panel connections. So that's why I was asking about the max number of assignments.

Do you see any problem with connecting only the coaxial out of the HR34 to the coaxial input of the AVR and the HDMI out of the HR34 directly to the TV. I'm already doing that with my Oppo 93, I connect one HDMI to the TV and the second HDMI to the AVR. This will be a little different, with only audio into the AVR. I'm wondering if I'll have any audio sync issues.

Another question about these various "Input Sources". They have names like DVD, HDP, TV/CBL, SAT, VCR, DVR, V.AUX, CD, SIRIUS. Are these just labels are must those input sources be strictly used for what the label says. You have to hook up your blu-ray player to the DVD assignment, and the DVR has got to go to DVR input source. Or, if I wanted, could I hook up the DVR to VCR?
post #5543 of 5668
OK, I'm with you know. I take it then you haven't looked through my website, because I discuss both input assignments and the issue of number of inputs vs. number of "names" and how they relate.

Anyway, the limiting factor on assignments is the total number of 'logical names' available, although as I discuss on my website you CAN do some "stacking" if necessary (i.e., you have more input sources than available names). The names themselves are simply arbitrary starting points, and through assignments and renaming you can do whatever you want (e.g. turn the "DVD" input into the "VCR" input). The only restriction is that the "old school" inputs (standard RCA red/white/yellow and s-video) cannot be reassigned; only digital audio, component video, and HDMI can be assigned.

As you found on pg 38 of the manual, there are a total of 7 assignable video inputs: DVD, HDP, TV/CBL, SAT, VCR, DVR, and V.AUX. The V.AUX input name also corresponds to the front panel RCA auxiliary inputs, so in general you should leave that one for last and only use it if you need it.

Additionally, there are two audio-only names (CD and PHONO) which cannot have video assigned to them, although you can assign a digital audio input to "CD" if you want to hook up your music player with digital SPDIF audio (optical or coax). The SIRIUS input is dedicated to an external satellite tuner module so you can basically ignore it for these purposes.

So, effectively, your "max assignments" is seven video inputs plus the audio-only CD input (the PHONO input being only useful for an actual record player since it has a pre-amp stage).

With those seven video inputs, you can assign as you wish and also rename them if you want. You can also delete unused source names under Option Setup > Source Delete (pg 33) if you want to streamline the inputs to only the ones you actually use.

I don't foresee any issue with connecting video straight to the TV and audio direct to the receiver. If you find there is some sync latency, you can also adjust the audio delay by input up to 200ms.
post #5544 of 5668
Thanks, Batpig, you answered all my questions in that post.

BTW, though I live in Arkansas now, I was born and raised in San Diego. Late December we'll be rushing through town for one day and evening and visiting my wife's brother.
post #5545 of 5668
glad to help smile.gif

Although I've never been, my wife's family is all from Arkansas -- Stuttgart and Arkadelphia areas. I'll have to make it out there one of these days now that I've got a daughter so the in-laws can enjoy the little batpiglet tongue.gif
post #5546 of 5668
Need some assistance.

Sorry if this question has already been asked but my 2809 has issues with the front channel and surround channel speakers. I can only get audio from the center channel and that is it. Does that mean the amps are shot? Is it worth to try to repair it? Anyone have similar issues?

Thank you in advance...
post #5547 of 5668
try a microprocessor reset; if you still can't get any sound from any other channel using the test tones, then it's probably shot frown.gif

reset procedure instructions pasted below (note that POWER refers to the little "hard power" button, not the big ON/STANDBY button):

post #5548 of 5668
Thank you so much. smile.gifsmile.gif I did the reset and it seemed to work. Didn't think that would do anything. Really didn't want to spend the money right now to get a new receiver. Hopefully this will work for a while. Again thank you.smile.gif
post #5549 of 5668
Great. needed this info too to reset my device after a power outage that made the system unresponsive!
post #5550 of 5668
I'm curious if anyone else has this problem. When I'm watching football (usually NFL but happens with college too), often the crowd noise makes it hard to hear the announcers. I really have to strain to hear them. I'll find myself turning up the volume to hear the announcers. Of course this makes the crowd noise louder too.

I'm wondering if this is just the way the networks are presenting the game or does it mean I need to adjust the receiver? Would boosting the center channel help with this?
Edited by Johnny Angell - 1/14/13 at 11:11am
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