"Official" RX-V1900/RX-V3900 Thread - Page 140

^Yeah.

90 seconds is bad! My 1800 drops audio for about 1 to 2 seconds when the HDMI monitor is turned on or off. Do you have the latest firmware (version 1.08 I think for the 3900)? If not give it a try, although I wouldn't be too optimistic it will help (at least the notes mention something about improved HDMI stability).

I thought it was a bit ordinary, but normally I just turn the small screen on to scroll through menus as I listen to music

I'm a bit undecided about the firmware update. Normally, my maxim is "if it ain't broke, don't fix it", and I'm undecided whether it's 'broke' enough to worry me yet.

hi
I have a question I think its simple my Yamaha Rx1900 it shows DTS-HD Master Audio is thes bitstreaming now because I useing acopy of abluray in my htpc in file in the two files and one of the film and one of the license idont have them in iso format do i now downsampling my bluray to 16 bit How do I get audio information from yamaha

ihave tmt3 3.0.1.140 asus slim xp32bit

my htpc Sometimes when you run the program stops and show a black screen than ihave to restart the computer

Sorry,
I'm having difficulty understanding your problem. Are you able to explain again what the problem is?
Cheers,
Stuart.

Hi all. I've been doing some testing on my subwoofer setup lately, have found a lot of distortion and been trying to get to the bottom of it. In doing so, I've uncovered an issue with the rx-v1900 and was wondering if anyone else had noticed this.

Basically during my testing I found that with a 31.5hz test tone, I was getting a lot of output at roughly 3x that, at approx 100hz. Same again with 40hz (distortion at about 125hz). This was quite severe with the amp set at -10db, and sub level midway. Distortion dropped out almost completely when the sub level was dropped to -10db (giving a total sub level out of -20db equivalent).

My assumption was that this was all due to the sub amp, crossover, port noise, etc. But after I made a lot of fixes I found that at a level of -13db on the amp, the distortion kicked in. Drop it by 0.5db, and it disappeared. Very strange. And to get a very obvious tone added to the sub with a 0.5db volume change to me says that this *must* be the amp, nothing to do with the sub amp, crossover, etc. Volume change from the sub was pretty minimal with a 0.5db increase, apart from the tonal noise that was added.

Has anyone else with the 1900 come across this? Also, if someone could test their sub and see if they get a difference at that volume level (or maybe a level around that anyway) as I'm concerned I may have a problem that will need a warranty check.

Cheers,
GS

I'm sorry my question was not clear
I have purchased Asus Xonar HDAV1.3 Slim Audio Card for bitstreaming my bluray movies
backups in my htpc to my yamaha 1900 my question my 1900 shows DTS-HD Master Audio and truhd is this bitstreaming in Full-HD Blu-Ray audio or not


Because Im not Useing iso imge of my bluray movies and Virtual CloneDrive Only use file like thes BDMV file and CERTIFICATE file and tmt3 menu disk files
tmt3 3.0.1.160 asus slim xp32bit

I'm afraid Because im I reading a lot about downsampling the audio if im not Useing iso and anyhd and Virtual CloneDrive

Well basically. I've been borrowing a fancy sound level meter which displays the SPL and frequency for every 1/3 octave. The original intention was to use it to balance my sub, set the crossover, etc (differently to how YPAO wanted to do it) but that was when I noticed how poor the sound quality was.

What I've found is that by playing a 31.5hz test tone (wav file) I'm getting strong tones from the sub at around 100hz. Speculation is it seems to be 3times the frequency, but the meter will only display every 1/3 octave.

Here are some readings for example from my testing - first row is 25hz tone, 2nd is 31.5 hz tone, 3rd is 40hz tone:

LZeq 20Hz	LZeq 25Hz	LZeq 31.5Hz	LZeq 40Hz	LZeq 50Hz	LZeq 63Hz	LZeq 80Hz	LZeq 100Hz	LZeq 125Hz	LZeq 160Hz	LZeq 200Hz
67.39	87.7	68.56	56.21	69.13	78.6	92.68	67.67	62.95	64.75	62.78
56.78	70.06	91.16	71.83	56.8	73.03	80.81	94.86	69.7	76.18	68.44
51.76	55.91	72.65	94.75	76.34	57.16	61.9	73.25	88.43	64.02	71.97

The middle row (31.5hz tone) is particularly bad, 91db at 31.5hz, 95db at 100hz!

In any case, I believe I've solved the issue (keep volume below -13db to the sub!) but not really a perfect one. I may want to turn it up louder in the future!

To be honest, I didn't need the sound meter to test it - it sounded pretty crap at that frequency. I swapped between bass out from the sub and the fronts, the difference in tone was very obvious. So that was why I was wondering if anyone else had noticed this, or if they may be able to test and see if it is a common thing.

Cheers,
GS

You are dealing with standing waves in your room. Every room has them so don't be concerned. There will be spots in your room that have peaks and/or nulls at certain frequencies. If you have a rectangular room it is easy to predict, odd shaped rooms you have to measure.

The frequencies that cause standing waves in your room will also cause problems at multiples of those frequencies. In a rectangular room the biggest problems will happen at the 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 points of the dimensions in your room. Don't put your seating (head position) in any of these spots.

There are four main things you can do to fix your problem.

1. Seat placement - Don't put your seating in a peak or null of the room.
2. Subwoofer/speaker Placement - Unless you sub is underpowered for your room corner placement of your sub is the worst spot for a single sub system. It will excite the most energy but your peaks and nulls will be at their greatest with corner placement. Two or more subs is defintely recomended as the best placement for one sub to eliminate these problems is not always practical such as the middle of the room.
3. Acoustics treatment - Bass Traps or Hemholtz resonators
4. EQ - Do not try to boos any nulls, just cut the peaks.

1/3 octave is not enough resolution for looking at the bass frequencies you need 1/12 octave or better.

I'm not sure if you a wording some of your tests correctly. I'll asume you are using a real time analyzer from what your describe. If you play a 31.5 hz tone you shouldn't have any other frequencies on your RTA except for the ambient noise level of the room. So you shouldn't see 100hz with a 31.5hz tone. Are you using pink noise which plays at all octaves and then you can see on your RTA what each frequency is doing?

Hope this helps.

Bob

Surely he's not describing standing waves if those different frequencies measured in the output are coming from a single input frequency. And the sudden onset of the issue at a specific volume level does suggest something is broken.

If he is playing a single frequency and getting multiples out that would be a problem. I'd say it is highly unlikely and would be quite unusual. Possible explanations could be an item in the room resonating as in a rattle and buzz test but this wouldn't happen with all frequencies. A ground loop or other type of hum/buzz in the equipment/sub.

Since pink noise is commonly used with an RTA I figured it was just his terminology and wording and the most likely explanation. We'll have to wait and see his reply.

Bob

Hi Bob, sounds like I need to clarify a few things.

Room effects are not the culprit here. When I noticed this issue, I wanted to make sure this wasn't part of it. Similar issue when I moved it to a long hallway (with front door open), also did the test (with the numbers above) when outside in the backyard. I did get a fair bit of the fence vibrating at 63hz, but def nothing at these frequencies (nothing noticeable anyway).

Test tones are from a software tone generator played as a wav file and created in 1/3 octaves (to match those displayed on the sound meter). I'm sure there are no issues with the original tones as they are audibly very clean when played on my front speakers.

Sound meter is a Bruel and Kjaer digital spl meter. Not sure what model but I'm told it's $20k worth of meter so I'm beig very careful when borrowing it! Basically has a touch screen with a frequency spectrum and unweighted db levels. The levels I posted are LZFeq levels, so RMS basically, when playing a pure test tone.

If it is a ground loop or some other issue with the sub amp then that would be a helluva lot better, as I do plan on replacing this sub eventually, maybe in a year or two. Short of plugging the sub output into an oscilloscope (which I don't have), any other tests that I could do? Or any other thoughts?

If your RX-V1900 display is showing DTS-HDMA or TrueHD then you're getting the full HD audio experience. Congrats!

I also have a HTPC with blu-ray drive connected to my 3900 but I can't get the HD audio yet with the sound card I have. My PS3 does the job though.

Cheers,

Stuart.

Are you using a computer for the signal generator/ test tones? I'd connect your source directly to your meter (most have an audio input) if possible and see if the anomoly is not coming from the source device or test material itself.

If that tests fine the next step is to connect the source to the sub and take the receiver out of the mix. This will isolate the problem to the sub.

If everything is OK then the problem must come from the receiver. Make sure you run it in pure direct mode to eliminate any processing or EQ that might take place which could alter the signal.

Lastly, check EQ and processing modes.

Distortion can happen at odd order harmonics but not typically as loud as you describe.

Bob

You could feed the sub output into a computer sound card. Then there's plenty of free software that can be used to display the frequency content (either live from the sound card, or after you record and save a sample).

Have any of you fellow 1900/3900 users tried the new Pace Summit HD Cable Box/DVR's?

Link: http://www.pace.com/americas/product...=DCABLE-DC758D

The model number is DC758D, goes for about $225 on sale locally.
it has an available external 1 TB HD for an extra $150 that I could move to/from the new STB box
to my old Motorola 3416 (yes its compatible) with a simple Serial cable connection.
(Benefit...would be able to watch stored HD movies/sports on any STB in the house)

My local cable provider is in the process of switching over to Pace from the old Motorola DCT boxes
I currently use the Motorola DCT3416 PVR and DCT6200 models and I'm thinking of adding a third HD STB anyway.
I'm just curious if the Pace unit will eliminate the resolution reset problems due to the EDID. If it does it will find a new home in the mancave.
The old 3416 will go to the master bedroom, and the 6200 that was in the master can go on the main floor where we only have SD cable currently.

I almost considered the Gefen HDMI Detective Plus (item#200376907883 on ebay) to stop the STB resolution reset but
I'm concerned that I may need two of them because I often switch my 3900's output between two different displays (Plasma and Projector)
that are different native resolution. (768p/1080p) the on/off cycle of either unit triggers the 480 reset currently
$220+ could be better spent on a whole new (Pace) Cable box "IF" it resists a resolution reset by the display(s) on/off cycle.

I guess if the Pace box it doesn't solve the res reset issue, I'm stuck with manual switching it back to 1080i every off/on cycle, like I currently do
The other alternative is just going to component/optical connections instead of HDMI
...but doesn't that negate the use of HDMI pass-through on standby?
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Edit Note: Nov.27/09

So far it looks like the new PVR's from Pace don't play nice with Yamaha AVR's,
at least not with the new RX-V765 model.

See this thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1200548

Think I'll hold off on this idea and stick with Motorola a while longer

Hi all,

I've got the 3900 and am loving it so far. However, i am experiencing two odd problems. I'm not sure if the problem is the reciever or the source, but thought i would try here first. Everything is connected to the 3900 via HDMI

Problem 1: Whenever i turn my xbox 360 on, my reciever only detects 2 channel audio. The only way to fix it is to specifically go into the output settings on the Xbox and switch the Dolby Digital output off and then back on. Has anyone else seen this and is there a way to fix it?

Problem 2: I am using a Bell Epressvu 9242 HD PVR - when i am watching a show that is supposedly broadcast in Dolby Digital, again my reciever only detects 2 channel audio and always displays "PCM" instead of Dolby. I have verified that the PVR is set to output both Dolby Digital and PCM but i can't figure out how to get the 5.1 sound.

Any suggestions or solutions out there??

THanks,

Scb

Plenty of tests... you can try feeding the sub directly from a PC or CD/DVD player, so long as the equipment has analog audio line level output. If the single tone wav file sounds like it should be, your sub is good... You can also try to beg/borrow/steal another subwoofer to test out whether the sub or the RX-V1900 is at fault.

Is there a chance that the subwoofer amp has maxed out and thus the clipping and distorting of the signal?

Also, did you try to run YPAO and see what YPAO gives for the sub level trim, if it is way out from the rest of the channels, then the gain knob on the sub is set wrongly. I have a 400W RMS sub that has the gain at less than a quarter up (at 9 o'clock position) just so that my sub's level trim can be within the YPAO'ed +/-2dB trim settings for all my other speakers.

My Sirius Internet has been working fine until recently. Although I can't be certain, it is possible it stopped working with firmware upgrade 1.08. I seem to recall accessing just before upgrading and all was ok. I upgraded last week and can't access it now, using the same set up. After several tries failed, I unsubscribed on the receiver and tried entering the username/password (which I validated works in a browser) but I get an immediate access error every time I try.

My network is working fine, I can still access streaming music, meaning dns and connectivity are all working.

I just started a two week free subscription to Rhaposody but can't access it either, same error. Neither formal registration nor the Trial registration ever access Rhapsody.

So, it seems the login part must be broken.

Don't know if I can downgrade to 1.07, think I'll give it a try, though I suspect the firmware blocks that.

Sirius Internet was an important feature for me, I'm very interested in Rhapsody, I certainly hope there is some resolution.

My experience trying to get help from Yamaha when I first got the unit convinced me that is not a helpful way to resolve problems, we'll see if this is different.

Downgrading is possible, I did so, but it didn't fix my Sirius Internet Problem.

Under Setup, HDMI, Audio Output, try changing from 'AMP + TV' to 'Amp'.

Problem 1 and 2 may be related and I beleive it's an HDMI detection issue with the XBox. If you turn on the XBox before turning on your sound and tv sources it defalts to two channel because it can't detect the HDMI sound mode. I had the same problem so I changed the order I turn components on. My sequence is TV, Amp, and then XBox. I hope this helps.

Happy Holidays!

Rayven

Wondering if anyone can help me with an HDMI issue. I have my Yamaha 3900 connected to a new 50 inch Samsung B850 plasma via a 10 metre HDMI cable. The cable is connected to the HDMI out 1 port on the 3900. I also have the TV connected to the 3900 via a 10 metre component cable (both are installed in the wall).

I have no trouble getting a picture with the component cable but I just can't seem to get a picture with the HDMI cable (the TV is telling me that there is no source signal and the red "HDMI" indicator on the AMP's front display doesn't light up). My DVD player and TIVO are currently connected to 3900 via component cables (which I will be upgrading to HDMI once I sort this problem out). I have tried the following:

- updating the firmware on the 3900 to 1.08 (this seems to be the current version in Australia)
- updated the firmware on the plasma to the latest version
- tried using HDMI out 1 and 2
- tried connecting the 3900 to a 22 inch samsung TV via a 1.8 metre HDMI cable
- turned off the HDMI-CEC control on the Samsung TV
- in advanced features on the 3900, set the monitor check to 'skip'
- tried every combination of HDMI/Video setting I can think of in the 3900 setup menu
- tried connecting the 10 metre HDMI cable directly from my TIVO to my TV (no problem with this connection)

The only time that HDMI will show up on the display of the receiver is when I set it to standby and set up the receiver to pass through mode.

I am really at a dead end. Can anyone help?? Is there an HDMI handshake issue with Samsung TVs?

Thanks

Couj

Get a powered HDMI restorer, it will solve your problem.

Bob

Have you tried the "HDMI out" button on the remote, this had me stumped for a while, could not get HDMI video out as it was set to "off" on remote. Cheers ...John

I currently own a rx-v2700.. sounds great. A buddy of mine has a rx-v663 with the truehd and dts-ma decoders built in.. when he plays blu-rays.. using the decoders in the receiver sounds a bit fuller to my ears compared to decoding pcm on my 2700. Evrything else i have hooked up to my system sounds excellent (turntable, etc) but i notice i always have to balance the volume when i run blu-ray(s).. I am thinking of upgrading to the 3900... will it not also improve the audio from the hdmi inputs as it has digital pll clock generator reducing jitter? (that is from the spec sheet).. thanks

Mike

Best Buy has one on clearance for $760. It has nothing with it, just the reciever. No remote, mic, manual, nothing. What do you guys think? Should I get it. They say it has full warranty and I have the regular 30 days. The guy thought it had been there about at year.