"Official" RX-V1900/RX-V3900 Thread - Page 182

Thanks for the info... here's the result:

Front Left: +7.0 dB
Center: -4.5 dB
Front Right: +4.5 dB
Rear Left: -2.5 dB
Rear Right: -7.0 dB

That is with just one sample point. I took a roll of paper towels and stuck it into the couch vertically, then put the mic on top of that. (About where my head would sit.)

The Original Carver Amazing Loudspeaker is very inefficient. I don't have the spec sheet in front of me, but I want to say it's about 82 dB @ 1W/1m. Minimum wattage recommended is 300 per channel, maximum of 1,000 watts I believe. I knew when I bought them that I would need an external amp, and my old receiver didn't have a pre-out so that lead to the purchase of the 1900.

I found an older Carver TFM-45 amplifier on eBay and got it for a good price... unfortunately, the people that sold it to me had to go out of town and it won't get shipped for two to three weeks. (Listing said 6-10 days for processing and shipping.)

Thank goodness that patience is a virtue, and that I got the amp at a good price... I realize that "life" happens, but you would think that somone with an eBay rating over 99.7% positive and over 8,000 transactions would have their stuff together better than that.

I can't wait to get the amp hooked up and rerun everything. It sounds great now... I can't imagine how it will sound with the right amount of juice.

Mark

Hi Mark,

Are the distance between the listening position and L&R rear bipolars close to being the same?

Do you feel you get similar sound output from the L&R rears at your listening position?

Congrats on the Carver TFM-45 -- ~375W 2ch that ought to give the Carver's electrostatics a shot in the arm.

I had gotten a PM from another member that NewEgg has the 1900 for $499 now. I am planning on contacting them to see if they will honor the new sale price for pre-30-day prior purchases.

Here are a couple pics of my setup. Again the rear Mirage bipolars are facing toward the listening position and firing against the walls behind them. The Rear Surround Back speaker is a Pioneer Elite TZ-MS-09. Small but nice. I would like to upgrade the Mirage MCCR center to a Mirage MC3 or OM-3 so that the tweeters are matched to the front 1090's.

At the back the manual, there are a couple of pages showing speaker settings and diagrams that helps.

That pretty much eliminates having to use Zone control that doesn't really apply.
The two rooms are used with the same source, pretty simple.
It now works much better, and like I hoped.

What I'm not sure of is, am I getting the full range out of the RS62's in the office?
Not sure what I need to see this. Making frequency adjustments in the settings for them, I did see some notes about the settings made then sends the balance to the sub circuit.

So I set them (RS62'2) to the lowest for now. Pretty much a guessing game.
I'd assume using the mic to listen and make adjustments is only going to
make having two rooms divided by solid wall confusing for the unit.
I guess it wouldn't hurt to try anyway.

Much to learn,
Thanks

Hello!

I'm new on here and have a v3900 arriving tomorrow. I noticed on the Yahama support site, that the latest firmware they have listed is 1.11, but I've seen some previous posts on here that talk about a 1.13 update.

What's the story about that? The download link that someone listed no longer works.

Does anyone know where I can get the 1.13 update?

Thanks!

Gary

I'd also like to get my hands on the 1.13 update. I have always had audio drops with my 3900 and the wife has had enough of it.

Would the last person to receive it send it to Gary and me please?.

Thanks,
Patrick.

Me too, if possible, or if anybody has a link (the ones previously posted are broken)?

Thanks in advance.

Hello,

I am looking to purchase a receiver to use as a prepro for my home theatre and SACD music listening. A member on another forum said to check out the Yamaha 1900. I have an Oppo BDP-83 blu ray player connected to a Carver 125 watt by 5 channel amp. I will still use my Carver amp, but it would be nice to have a powerful receiver as backup in the event my main amp dies. If you were planning on spending around $600 would you purchase the Yamaha 1900 or would you look at something else. Thank you for your comments.

Miccar, what you're looking to do is exactly what I just went to a few months ago when I picked up my RX-V1900. I had an Emotiva MMC-1 pre/pro paired with an Emotiva UPA-7 (125w x 7) and wanted some of the newer HDMI connections and Hi Res audio via HDMI options and having owned an RX-V2500 in the past with good success, thought it would be a good time to revisit Yamaha as a pre/pro.

After re-visiting some of the setup features of the Yammy and learning some of the new ones, I'm more than happy with my decision and have no regrets whatsoever. The nice thing about having the internal amplification available from the receiver is I can use either Zone 2 or Zone 3 w/out fear of overworking the amps and as you mentioned, if there's any issues with the external amp, I've already got a built-in backup.

I can, without hesitation, suggest the RX-V1900 as a pre/pro, particularly for it's current going price. I would also suggest checking NewEgg on the weekend to see if the price comes down lower than what you'd mentioned (currently @ $579). If I recall, it has once or twice dipped down a bit lower, but even if it doesn't, IMO, this receiver is quite a value at that price.

Good luck and enjoy! -TD

Thank you Tom.

Hi Yamaha RX V1900 owners,

Could you tell me the power requirements for this avr...? Is it 110 only or is it also 240 ? Is it dual volatage ?

Basically i'm trying to find out if i can buy this and use it in asia...?

Thanks

Hi rana_kirti, by Yamaha website RX-V1900

120 Volts
630 VA
60 Hz
500 Watts

You need to locate a retailer that stocks the (e.g.) Asia or General models [see manual page 122] . . . probably NOT generally available in US or Canada.

jc & sound,

Guys Thank You both.

I received a copy of the firmware from a forum member.

If anyone else wants a copy, just PM me your email address and I'll forward it.

Please be aware that Yamaha has not officially released this firmware and I take no responsibility, if it doesn't work correctly.

For those who have already done the update, please post your thoughts about it, good or bad.

Thanks to GaryInSeattle, here's the download link for 1.13 if anyone who wants to use it.
http://rapidshare.com/files/432091498/RXV3900v113.zip

I am looking to upgrade my receiver to the RX-V1900's equivalent model that is 3D ready / HDMI 1.4. Does anyone know when Yamaha may be releasing such new units?

I see Yamaha has the lower powered RX-V867 and 567 out. These are nice but I am looking for more around the 130w x 7 range for power. Basically I'm looking for the equivalent upgrade for the 1900 to HDMI 1.4, but it appears these are not available yet. That is a bit surprising so I'm wondering if anyone has info on when we may see that.

There's no exact equivalent, but I would say it's somewhere between the RX-A1000 and the A2000 (the 1000 has at least as many features as the 1900, but you may need the 2000 for equivalent power). There are also virtually identical models called the RX-V1067 and 2067.

All these units are out already, but if there's some particular feature of your 1900 that you can't live without, check the new manuals carefully first. For example, the system memories are gone (replaced with something not quite as flexible), if you're using RS-232 control you'll have to switch to different codes, or to network control, and there are probably other things too.

There are also ways to watch 3D without upgrading your 1900 (e.g. get a 3D Blu-ray player with two outputs).

Thanks for the great info and the heads up about the system memories. I use that feature extensively. I can't believe they would dumb that down. Can you please elaborate on the ways in which the newer approach is less flexible? What do we lose in this area?

The one feature I really want in particular (besides the 3D support) is OSD and GUI over HDMI. I've had the RX-1400, 1700 and 1800 none of which have this feature. I mainly just want to be able to see the volume control as I adjust up and down, rather than guessing and going by ear. Any of the models you mention have this feature?

In looking at the units, yes I'd need the A2000 for equivalent power. 8 HDMI inputs huh. Wow, that's a lot. I only need 4, but what's a few more for growth I guess. Wow I just had a look at the street price for this unit.

Typically I've been getting these receivers from authorized dealers for a lot less. I'm tempted to look for another AVR perhaps more suited, but I really like the sound of the Yamahas and don't want to chance it with something else...

Check out the thread for the A1000/2000/3000, which includes a summary in the first post. And look up the SCENE feature in the new manuals. Basically a selection of settings get stored per "scene", but not as many as with the old system memories.

I'm keeping my 1800 for now. If I were buying now the 2000 or 3000 look good, except I that you can't actually turn the on-screen volume display OFF, which I can't live with. They won't get my money until they make that feature selectable.

I was watching a Blu-ray movie disc (HDMI connection) the other night and it had a very stange audio drop out with hissing sounds and nothing else. I don't know if it was a disc problem or what, but it scared the heck out of me because the volume level was pretty high.

So, I installed the 1.13 update yesterday. It loaded up correctly and everything seems to be working just fine so far.

I replayed the same section of the movie (The Dark Knight) and the audio was perfect.

Yes, surprisingly. I used a tape measure and checked the distance from the listening position, and it was very close. The output was close, too... and I checked it with my SPL meter and it was within a dB from what I remember.


Thanks. I am STILL waiting for it to arrive, though. I was supposed to receive it by last Friday, but they didn't ship it until Saturday. To top it off, I paid for them to ship it UPS Ground (3 days) and they sent it USPS Parcel Post. What does that take, a week? Smooth move... right into the Thanksgiving holiday when most people are gone with family/friends.


I saw that after you posted this up. I didn't bother to call NewEgg because I have dealt with them for many years without any issues. I was okay with the price I paid, which was a lot lower than retail... so I just wrote it off as a missed deal. No worries though... it's a great receiver at almost any price. (Below MSRP, obviously.)


Nice... I bet those Mirage's sound nice. If you upgrade the center, you can move the existing one to the rear... if you have space for it.

I'm thinking about adding a second set of rears... or moving what I have behind the couch and then putting something different on the sides. But for now, it sounds great! Best receiver I have owned to date.

Would anyone with the V1900 confirm if it will pass thru the HDMI signal when the unit is in standby? From the manual it appears not, but I have seen other comments that may suggest that the V1900 and V1065 both can do this, which is a feature I really would like to have.

Thanks.

Dzd9fy, I can confirm the RX-V1900 will not pass through the HDMI signal when the unit is in standby mode.

The RX-V3900 does do so and possibly some of the other newer Yamaha Advantege units, but unfortunately, this is not available on the 1900. -TD

Here is an interesting video presentation on Diffusion, and could help those
setting up Theater room on the cheap or extreme.

http://www.vimeo.com/1522217

RX-V1900 $500 vs. RX-Z7 $1,200. Is it worth buying the Z7?

I would say all is well with this firmware update. The service people for Yamaha in New Zealand sent me this v1.13 firmware. The Service Bulletin from Yamaha that accompanies this firmware update (maybe this didn't get passed on to some) doesn't leave any doubt (in my book anyway!) that it's official. At the bottom of the Service Bulletin (no. E-1368) it states 'Servicing: Update the firmware when brought in for service'. I can say my RX-V3900 is running fine with this update.

I am having an issue where the AVR is incorrectly selecting my TV Audio Input source instead of HDMI 2 when everything first powers up. This causes me to have to manually select HDMI 2 after the TV is on and warmed up in order to have sound.

Here are the details:

SETTINGS:
Under the Setup HDMI menu on the AVR I have HDMI Control set to ON, ARC set to ON, and TV Audio Input set to AV1.

I have my Comcast STB connected to the AVR via HDMI 2 input, and the HDMI output from the AVR is connected to the HDMI ARC input on my Samsung PN63C8000. The STB remains on at all times and when I finished viewing my AVR is always on HDMI 2 and I power off the Samsung and AVR.

ISSUE:
When I power the AVR and TV, the AVR correctly shows HDMI 2 **at first** - while the TV is warming up. However after about 5 seconds the TV warms up as soon as the picture comes on the AVR switches to AV1!

It seems like the TV Audio Input setting of AV1 is causing the AVR to say "Oh, the TV is on, I need to switch to AV1". However that is wrong. I get NO SOUND that way. The receiver needs to be on HDMI 2 in order for me to get sound.

In fact as soon as I manually switch it to HDMI 2, I get sound and everything is good. But the problem is the next time I turn on all the components I have to manually choose HDMI 2 again. And I can't set a macro for the remote to switch this because its about 5 seconds after power up before the command would need to be sent, and no family members are going to keep the remote pointed at the TV that long...

If I change the TV Audio Input setting to something else, then when everything powers up the AVR switches to that setting. So this setting is definitely dictating what input gets selected.

If I set the HDMI Control setting to OFF, then the problem goes away. However that is not a viable solution, because for other viewing I need the Audio Return Channel feature. And ARC does not function if I set HDMI Control to OFF.

Ideally there would be an option I could use to tell the AVR not to auto switch. But apparently there is no way to do this (short of turning off HDMI Control, which would then cause me to loose ARC).

Does anyone have some ideas on how to best handle this? Thanks so much in advance!

YPAO set my subwoofer to 22 feet away, when in reality it is only about 15 feet. It got the other speaker distances perfectly.

I was going to override it back to 15 feet. But then I thought maybe the room acuositcs (its not a dedicated room afterall) are such that its effectively like the sub is 22 feet away...

Do you guys think I should leave it as is? How can I tell whether its better off leaving or changing it? Thanks.