"Official" RX-V1900/RX-V3900 Thread - Page 198

You can set the amp to always "stay on" in the Harmony's config. Then it won't power up when you start any activity - and it won't shut down either, when you exit any activity. Then you can work around this by setting a "power toggle" button to any unused button, or to the "additional buttons" in the LCD, in each applicable activity. If there's no "power toggle", you'll need to add "power on" and "power off".

I hope that helps.

VMat

I just code the activity again without amplifier, copied AV2 command from the amplifier remote control of a television command and inserted it in the process - so now it works. NICE!! ;-)

I'm planning an AVR upgrade from the Yamaha RXV 465 to the RXV1900 I'm thinking I don't really need a 3900 since I have a PC allready connected w/ a HDMI cable to AVR for internet radio.

1.is it true or false that the 1900 won't display volumne on the TV screen?

2.on a scale from 1-10 how much better will the 1900 sound compared to the 465?

3.doe's the 1900 have a builtin cooling fan?

4.is the 1900 known to create alot of heat like the 2700 is known for.

5.I believe the 1900 has 1.3 HDMI what version doe's my 465 have?

Thanks STB

The 1900 is several generations old. Any reason why you don't want to go with a new model?


1. True, no volume overlay over HDMI (to me that's actually a good thing in a home theatre setup. Having the volume pop-up is too distracting during a movie)

2. It has a lot more power (more than the specs might indicate), and some better quality components. But it's hard to say how much better it will sound. At low volumes they might sound similar. Speakers upgrades make a lot more difference that receiver upgrades.

3. No fan.

4. My 1800 gets fairly warm (and the 1900 is almost exactly the same design). If you play loud and the room is warm, you could always add a fan, but it shouldn't really need one.

5. The 1900 and 665 are both HDMI 1.3 (so no 3D video support). The x67 models were the first to support 3D.

can you suggest a a newer model for me.

when is the best time of year to buy new amps?

I'll probablley never need more than 3 HDMI ports, I like the 12V trigger, HD radio and the clean power .04% distrotion.

aventage looks kindof good however I'll be paying for 8 HDMI ports I'll never use.

I recently upgraded my entry level Polk M30 (fronts) w/ Def. tech SM450 from Polk CC CS1
to Def. tech C1 and added suround Def. tech satilites so now I'm thinking the 465 is'nt providing enought clean power to do justice to my new upgraded speakers.

the Def. techs are very effiecient speakers and are not known as power hunry speaker they sound very good even w/ the 465 just thinking it could be better the 465 new was $350. the 1900 new is $1400.

Kindof dissappointing to hear that at low volumnes the 1900 may sound just like the 465.
Thanks STB

$1400 is MSRP for a model that's been out of production for several years. I didn't even know you could still find them new, but I wouldn't pay anywhere near that. The closeout sales on the 1900 a couiple of years ago were not much more than $700.

Right now there are good deals to be had on the RX-A1010/2010/3010, because the current models are the 1020/2020/3020. If I were upgrading my 1800 (which I'm not because it's working well), I would have to go with at least the 2010, as it's got significantly more features than the 1010 (e.g. EQs the sub, has independant crossovers). Check the last few pages of the 1010/2010/3010 thread, and I think you'll see people posting deals that are around $1000 for the 2010.

And I can't say for sure how different it will sound. It just seems than most amps should be able to drive efficient speakers at low volumes. But you'd have to listen to be sure.

The Dimensions of the 1900 are (W x H x D) 17-1/8" x 6-3/4" x 17-1/4" is the volumne nob included in depth?
Thanks STB

17-1/4" includes the volume knob at the front and the speaker terminals at the back. But remember you really need several inches extra for HDMI cables to avoid stressing the connectors.

I just saw a 1900 used go for $430. I did'nt think it was whorth more than $350-$375. what do you think the used 1900 is whorth?

I would'nt mind obtaining a high end amp w/ out a remote or calibration mic, how much doe's a missing remote devalueate the amp.?
STB

I'll have to pass on (you'r choice of upgrade) the RXA2010 it's depht. of 18.4"s is to big for my cabinet plus I don't really want 9 speakers all over the place.(if I have ports I'll buy more speakers)

The YAMAHA RX-A1010BL & RXA1000 has possiabilitys (both will fit my cabinet) HDMI room included) what doe's the BL stand for ? I believe I read somewhere it's for not first rate has somekindof blemish or a returned purchase?

Looks like the RXA2000 & RXA3000 would be my desirabley choices. are these 2 Yamahas the previous verision of the RXA2010 -3010?

couple more ?s
what is the inbetween year model from the RXV1900 and the RXA1010?
What is Digital Coaxial Audio used for?
Thanks STB

I don't tend to buy used stuff, so I don't know what a used 1900 should go for. It would be a bit of a pain w/o the remote, but all the codes are known so you could use a programmable remote instead. For the YPAO mic, I don't think you'd lose a lot if you set it up manually instead.

The model numbers by year were roughly:
RX-V1900/3900 (introduced in late 2008)
RX-V1065/2065/3065 (2009)
RX-Vx067 and also RX-Ax000 (2010)
RX-Vx071 also RX-Ax010 (2011)
RX-Vx073 and also RX-Ax020 (2012)

The A2000/3000 preceeded the 2010/3010. They are good but have one issue that's a deal breaker for some: any time you change volume you will see it on your TV screen (in a big black rectangle) and there is no way to turn that off. Following models let you turn this off.

Digital Coax is used by some devices instead of Digital Optical. They pass the same kind of audio.

The BL just stands for Black as far as I know.

The A2000/3000 preceeded the 2010/3010. They are good but have one issue that's a deal breaker for some: any time you change volume you will see it on your TV screen (in a big black rectangle) and there is no way to turn that off. Following models let you turn this off.

Yes this could be a possiable deal breaker exactly how big is the volume display? is there a video on this display?

Thanks STB

Volume OSD: see this post. Pretty annoying - but not so much that I'd regret choosing an A1000. Besides, once I set the volume to watch a movie, I rarely change it.

About the remote and mic: The remote can be replaced with a decent universal remote (I'm thinking Harmony). But no, you shouldn't get one of these receivers without a calibration mic, in my opinion, unless you can get a separate mic afterwards, or if you have an SPL meter and know how to use it. The calibration should give you a significant improvement in sound, I don't see a point in getting a high-end receiver if you don't calibrate it. Also, I would recommend getting a network-capable receiver, to be able to use the web application and at least backup your configurations. Configuring these AVR's once is already painful. If you need to do it again from scratch...

The additional surround speakers are not required, you can turn off the corresponding channels in the receiver. You may want to use them later. I've been playing with the front presence speakers, and I like it. I added them long after the other ones.

VMat

I actualley am constantly adjusting the volume however I could live w/ the OSD how long doe's it stay on?

I personalley would like to see two displays first for regular volume second for potensionale volume you know when all of a sudden you get blasted w/ effects sound.

I allready have a Harmony remote so I would'nt mind obtaining like a open box deal that's missing the Yamaha remote (that I'd probablley never use anyway).

Think I read up on the RXA 1-2-3000 threads mite be to late to snag a deal on these as clearanced or refurb. kindof want a warrenty.

Doe's Yamaha themselves sell refurbs or do they just let places like new egg do the refurbs.

Thanks Guy's for advice.

Approx. 3 seconds after releasing volume buttons.


Sorry, don't know what you mean. Can you rephrase that?


The Harmony should do the job. However, there's still the mic issue. Of course, if you find a really good deal (I'd say less than $300 for a fully functional A1000), you can probably get a mic somewhere else and still have a decent overall cost.

VMat

I personalley would like to see two displays first for regular volume second for potensionale volume you know when all of a sudden you get blasted w/ effects sound. best I can explain this is like when a explosion or car crash ect. happens the volume like doubles.

couple more ?s


1.I've read that the RXA1000 has a substandard FM reciever is this true or false?

2.what quailifies a amp. as clean power? the rate of distrotion?

3.I'm still confussed on why some Yamahas have BL on the end of there model #. Kirk thought it could stand for color being black however New Egg has models listed w/ the BL on model # then list the unit as a Walnut color (whatever walnut is)?
NE also lists other units color as black w/ the BL as part of the model #. I'm thinking BL stands for not first rate product w/ a minor blemish.

4.w/ a 7.1 Yamaha amp. is it more designed for front present speakers than wides?

Thanks STB

Well... I'm sorry, I'm still not sure what you wanna see. What does the car crash has to do with the volume bar? The volume bar has always the same black background.


1. I don't use it, so I can't tell you. Maybe someone else.

2. Several specifications may be related with "clean power", but manufacturers don't always publish the complete specifications, and sometimes they even twist them a little bit to make their products more attractive. Don't get too obsessed about specifications. Having that said, rated distortion may be an indication of "how clean the power is". But in order to compare products of different manufacturers you'd need to have the exact same test condition - number of channels, output power per channel, frequency (or white noise), etc.. They don't always perform these tests in the same conditions either.

3. BL means black (SI means silver). Someone at the Egg wasn't paying ANY attention...

4. Again, not sure what you mean by "more designed". But anyway, the RX-A1000 supports only "front presence" speakers - although, of course, you may want to try placing your speakers in a different position and see the results.

One more thing... you should probably ask about the A1000 in its own thread (the one that has the picture of the volume bar). Otherwise the moderators will get mad at us both.

VMat

Thanks V Mat for advice.

I'm inbetween the new RXV1900 and the RXA

I've read that the RXA 1-3000 has a sub standard FM radio reception. I haven't read this intire 1900-3900 however I'm leaning toward the 1900 model

? doe's the 1900-3900 have a decent FM radio and HD FM/AM radio reception?

Thanks STB

The RX-V3900 has excellent reception of FM and AM. I am an AM DX'er. With a decent outdoor or indoor loop, I can DX IBOC (HD) AM signals very well with the RX-V3900. I also find that the FM reception is very good. However, most of my listening nowadays is done via the Internet Radio reception of the RX-V3900 (I'm a big fan of WFMT in Chicago and its reception over the FM band is spotty here in South Bend since there's an interfering rock station in Grand Rapids, MI that's on the same frequency).

doe's the 1900 have the option to either have or havenot the OSD of volume?

STB

what is AM DX'er I'm assumming distanse AM that would be good because I sometimes listen to Chicago Cubs on AM. wonder why Yamaha put a sub standard tuner in the RXAs.
STB

No, the 1900 has no on-screen volume when you're using HDMI to the TV. The 3900 does because it's a very different design. The 1800/3800 were basically the same receiver with a few extra features on the 3800, but the following year the 3900 was a whole new design while the 1900 is basically an 1800 with minor changes.

yea thats what I was thinking (about OSD) after reading page one here.


the minor changes from the 1800 to 1900 was this making firmware upgrades unnessary?

I've read in you'r previous responses that there isn't a FU for the 1900 is this still true? hoppefully yes one least headach to deal w/.

note: (slitely off topic) about my 465 I have two cables connected to TV from AVR. out TV (HDMI) input AVR. seciond optical tosh link in AVR audio one AV1 from output of TV.

When fastforwarding recorded TV from either DVR or PC I sometimes (not often) hear a sharp pop noise from my right front speaker after reading up on AVR threads I believe my 465 needs a firmware upgrade?


STB

There are no firmware updates for the 1900. But on the new models updates are done via USB memory stick (or network), and they are not difficult to do. The old CD method for updating firmware can be a little tricky, and that's what the 465 uses. But I don't know if that will fix your problem with the pop noises.

post #8371 in this thread lead me to believe my 465 needs a firmware upgrade.
http://www.avsforum.com/t/888942/the-official-yamaha-rx-v1800-rx-v3800-thread/8370#post_22575424

"Depending on how old your firmware is, then apart from the BTB/WTW video issue you could have the "bitstream bomb" bug, which was a decoding error that produces a loud bang during a few specific movies when sending a DTS-HD MA bitstream from the player to the receiver"

in addition to the sharp pop noise from the right front speaker during fastforward.

sometimes during sporting events like football (not fast moving pictures but just people walking around slowly) the picture pixelates maybe 2 or less % of the time.
I've never done a FW upgrade on a AVR and would prefer not to take a chance on ruining the 465.
Thanks STB

The "bitstream bomb" bug was in earlier models than the 465, it won't have that problem. And pixelation problems with TV are usually just problems with the TV signal, not the receiver.

I contacted Yamaha about this sharp pop noise though the right front speaker there recommending the 465 to be serviced.

Have you read about this pop noise besides from me?

Do you think this pop will eventaully ruin my right front speaker?


I find myself constantly adjusting (at the subs. volume) the amount of bass FM radio can handle 95% of subs output however TV can't handle alot (seams like TV mulitplys bass output) usalley 65-75% of subs output.

adjusting the subs. volume is not real user friendly I would like to set the subs. volume at 95% then have the option to lower it w/ the 1900.


what exactly is bass control is like a tone control for the LFE sub. or is it like a seprate crossover for bass out of all speakers?

is bass volume displayed numericalley on the 1900.


Thanks STB

Not sure about the pop noise you're hearing. The fact that it's only in one channel might mean there really is something that needs fixing. If it's not very loud, it's probably not going to damage the speaker, but I suppose it could if it's loud enough.

If some sources (like TV) have too much bass, then reducing the sub level in the receiver for that source is one solution. With the 1900 there's a LEVEL button on the remote that lets you adjust individual speaker levels quite easily. But the 1900 also has several system memories which can store all your settings. So with one button on the remote you could switch between two or more settings, one of which could have lower subwoofer volume.

The bass and treble are part of the tone control. Reducing bass affects all bass from the front speakers and subwoofer. For some reason the tone controls can only be change using the front panel (not the remote), but you can then save the modified settings in one of the system memories, and switch between memories with the remote. The bass/treble settings (and speaker levels) are all displayed numerically on the front panel while you're changing them.

I'm thinking this pop noise I'm hearing is not AVR related but hard disk related, see both DVR and PC use HDD for recording I came to this conclusion because when I fastforward a DVD in my BD player I never hear the pop noise.

Also this pop noise is always a ratio of the set volume at AVR the louder the set volume the louder the pop and vice versa. remember I hardly ever hear this noise but it there like 2% of all fastforwards.


The TV base differs from each HD channel.

setting up a remote w/ differnt settings would reduce base adjusting thus improving the listening experience.

I only want to adjust the sub. level, it's small but very powerfull at 1200Watts/ 2400RMS. However it's a joke the way Polk has me adjusting the volume though it's remote very time consumming and andiquated however it's really the best way to adjust the level from you'r listening position w/ a remote.

1.How many memerories doe's the 1900 have? and provide a few examples of what you use these memrories for. seams like the 1900 can be fine tuned maybe setting up a tone for speakers sub surrounds for each individual channel.

2.Can this memerories be labled w/ words and #s w/ the Yamaha remote or the Harmony?

3.The speaker level is this a ratio of the actuale set volume? my 465 has this level setting for each speaker, is default the middle of the bar graft? and moving to right increases level?
4.how do you have you'r levels setup for fronts and surrounds & sub.?

( I haven't experimented much w/ this except when I recently connected my surround speakers could'nt really hear much so I bumped the level up a tad, still don't hear much out of the surounds).
I understand that the surounds only play upto 15% of audio so I usalley won't hear much from them (usalley just effects)? I diffenitly don't want to turn them up too much where they will interfer w/ the fronts.

I have more comments and a few more ?s for later did'nt want to make this post too long.

Thanks STB
Edited by stevethebrain - 1/30/13 at 4:21am

That's a lot of questions

The 1900 has 6 system memories, and the first 4 have dedicated buttons on the Yamaha remote (they can't be labelled, but with a programmable remote you could presumably do something to help you remember what was saved in each memory). Each memory stores all settings, so you set everything up the way you want it and then save to a memory. Then change as many things as you want and save to another memory, etc.

Speaker levels are a numerical offset between -10 and +10 dB. The slider control is a poor way of showing the level, because you can't tell the exact value, but when it's in the middle it's 0.0. Using the LEVEL button on the 1900 remote you see the actual numerical value.

Someone else's levels won't help you, because they depend on many things. You need a sound meter if you want to adjust levels manually using the built in test tones. For sub level there's an element of personal preference. For surround levels, I recommend setting them so the surround speakers measure a bit (maybe 2dB) louder than the front speakers. This is because we never watch movies at reference level where all speakers are supposed to be matched, and when we use a lower volume the surround levels need to be raised in order to sound (subjectively) like they match the fronts. What you hear from the surrounds depends on the movie you're watching, and sometimes there's not much there.

I have been narrowing down the creater of the pop noise I believe it's a combonation of the DVR/PC
being fastforwarded w/ the 30 second skip and FF button the BD player only has FF, I will continue my awareness of this issuse untill resolved meanwhile I'll mute or lower the volume when FF just to protect the speaker.

OK so it's a rule of thumb the surrounds be set around 2DB more than the fronts?
I have'nt looked real close when adjusting the level slider on the 465 for a nurmaric display.(will do later today) the speaker level slider on my 465 each time it move once in either direction what doe's that equate to in DB increments?I just read in the manuel each step is .5Db

1900?s
On the back of the 1900 I observe these connections.
Preout Terminal F/C/Sr/Sb/Sw I'm assumming the 1900 can be used as a pre-amp?

Remote input/output I don't have a clue what this connection is used for maybe a IR blaster (remote reciever for second zone)?

Eventualley I'll have 7.1 speakers. since the 1900 does'nt have Pro logic IIz
this could be a deal breaker.

I have a old Kenwood main amp. KC207 150WPC 2 channel
since my 465 has Pro logic IIz would it be worth the effort to connect this old amp. to the 465 and a spare set of speakers (going from 5.1 to 7.1) just to see if I really like/ need Pro logic IIz ?
Thanks for taking the time to share you'r knowledge STB
Edited by stevethebrain - 1/31/13 at 6:04am