Samsung BD-2550/BD-P2500 Master Thread - Page 98

I have 24fps mode enabled AND going through my receiver. No issues at all.

Using:
BD-P2550 (w/ 2.4)
Sony 52XBR4
Pioneer Elite VSX-84TXSi

Thanks.

Mike

Actually, you can force it to work with this player. Try using the "B" (green) button on the remote during playback or whe the screen is paused. It works on every BD I've tried, and creates a perfect bookmark The marker key has proven pretty much useless for now though...

if i did that will i be able to get TrueHD and DTS-HD

My understanding is that you need to use HDMI for yoru audio as well in order to decode those audio types

You're welcome Mike. Hope it helps.

Note:---> Instead of pressing Exit for the second button push, press "Cancel".

So, first you press "Audio", and then you press "Cancel".

That annoyed me in earlier versions but I haven't seen it occur in 2.4.

I don't think so, unless the problem only occurs with certain AVRs. Two weeks ago I upgraded my AVR to one that handled HDMI (a Yamaha RX-V3900) and re-cabled my 2550 to go through the AVR (to decode DTS-HD MA in the AVR), and Netflix streaming still works fine (with the 2550 set to 24fps).

Wow: thanks! Between this and that other post about BonusView I'm beginning to wonder how many "secret" key clicks there are for this player!?

The short answer is: you can also decode the HD audio tracks by using the 5.1/7.1 analog audio outs on the player; there's also the potential side benefit of decoding secondary audio (depending on how you configure your digital outs). Sounds like you just need to decide whether you want to go 1080p on the video (with HQV) and use analog outs on the audio, or go HDMI with everything and settle for 1080i. Both are OK, but they require completely different cabling.

I do the former because I don't have an HDMI receiver (and like what I have so won't be getting one anytime soon).

I don't believe this has been posted yet. It's a review of the P2550 by PCMAG.com. In a nutshell, they liked the player - alot.

http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817...129TX1K0000530

Enjoy

I am connected with all HDMI thru the AVR. The 24fps doesn't work for me. If I switch to HDMI direct to the tv (Samsung HLS6187W) and do analog audio to the AVR, would that allow 24fps? Can I use optical audio and still get all HD audio?

Does anyone know if it is possible to play DVD/BD with PAL (25/50 hz) content?

I suggest you look through the "audio" sticky in this area, but what you're asking depends upon the TV as well as the player. The Toslink (optical) outputs will NEVER give you "HD" audio; you get a down-converted version of it (like DD or DTS 5.1).

Thanks for the audio info. I'll stick with HDMI for now. I need to investigate this 24 fps stuff tho.

I just learn that the latest version fixes it, glad to know that Samsung scores on this one. Wish I can say the same with their internal bass management!

While watching The Dark Knight on BRD the aspect kept changing from full screen covered to letterbox (black bars top and bottom) in different chapters. If I would replay chapters the same ones would always display the same as before. I am running HDMI out thru an Onkyo 670 to a 65' Toshiba DLP. The 2550 is set for 16:9 normal, 1080p at 24fps.

How can I make this stop? Thanks

EDIT: Never mind I just found the thread on this.

Yeah, unfortunately that was a director's choice to flip flop between different aspect ratios. It gets distracting for me. I suppose I tend to have a purist attitude towards that.

Yep, I was distracted too. Kept thinking something was wrong with my setup as this was the first BD I've watched on the 2550.

Hi,
I wonder if anyone has the same problem as me. I have a BD-P2500 connected to an HDMI switch that outputs to 2 different devices: an HD TV that can support 1080i/60 and a Sony PJ that can support 1080p/24 and 60.

The purpose of the switch is to be able to display the output to 2 displays without having to mess with the HDMI cable wiring every time you switch display (I only watch one or the other display).
When I watch on my TV I have to manually change the setup on the player to set it to 1080i. WHen I watch on my PJ, I need to change it back to 1080p.
Anybody has the same problem connecting the HDMI output to 2 displays with different resolutions?
I thought the HDMI protocol would be smart enough to check the highest resolution supported by the connected display and downgrade automatically. That way I would just set it to 1080p and let it downgrade to 1080i when connected to the TV.
Is this a limitation of the BD-P2500 model or do other players behave differently?

Thanks!

No I don't think you do. The purist wants it displayed exactly as it was shown and in the case of DK, having 16:9 aspect to use the most of the iMax transfer is as close as it gets on TV.

With 24 fps enabled, netflix streaming usually results in a garbled picture for me. My setup is:

BD-P2500 (v2.4)
Denon AVR-1909
Pioneer Kuro PDP-5020FD

not sure if anyone is keeping track, but i'm experiencing the 24p/scrambled Netflix problem, too...

brand new BD-P2550
december 2008 mfg date on the back
upgraded firmware to 2.4 using USB stick
video HDMI 1.3a cable direct into Sony 52XBR6
audio optical S/PDIF into Panasonic IR Headphones

the XBR6 does a nice job with 1080p/24p source material, so its a shame to have to make changes in the setup menu every time i want to watch something in my Netflix queue...

cheers
r

Besides my BD-P2500 I have a Toshiba HD-XA2. The XA2 settings in the menu read "Up To 1080P/24", I think this means it will automatically adjust, . I've only used it on a Pioneer 6010 Kuro though so I can not prove this.

I just saw that the Sony S550 allows you to set the resolution as well as the 24fps option to "Auto", it will determine automatically the best setting.
Too bad the P2500 does not seem to be able to do that.

Thanks for checking.

It is supposed to do that regardless when the 24p is set to "on". In fact, it worked up until the 2.4 firmware was released. I think the problem is that it doesn't always re-check the source every time a new source is displayed. You can tell in Netflix if it's going to display properly or not even before a movie is buffered, if your in the movie queue and the display still shows 24hz. If it does, you'll get gibberish... If it shows 60hz, you'll be good to go. I just push the "info" button on my Samsung TV and it tells me.

Hey everyone,
I want to bounce an issue off of the group.
I have a newly install system consisting of an AE3000 panasonic projector, an AVR2809 Denon receiver and a Samsung 2500. Everything is new out of the box. The denon and projector work very well with each other over HDMI (that is my only ouput to the projector). I hooked up the Samsung for the first time last night and it seems to be having a handshake issue. I will get an image at first of the splash screen which will last a couple seconds before it tries to recycle itself/rehandshake. I will get the occasional image after that and occasional sound but nothing consistent. The 1080p LED on the player will keep turning on and off in conjunction with the rehandshaking. I have also noticed an occasional loud (not normal) speaker pop during the reconnection phase.
Things that I have tried:
1. Upgraded the firmware - no help
2. Changed all the HDMI cables except the one in the wall - no help
3. Disconnected the player from the receiver and plugged it directly into the cable that goes to the projector - no help
4. Deactivated the samsung interactive HDMI protocol - no help

Component and composite out work just fine.

Am I looking at a bad HDMI port here?

Other thoughts?

No, you're looking at a long HDMI cable (in wall) that is not up to task for 1080p with HDCP. The issue you have is a typical syptom of HDCP handshake error. Long HDMI cables are usually the suspect in this kind of setup. When you only connect Denon AVR to PJ, there is no HDCP required. Hence it works. However, when you connect Samsung player (or any other HDMI DVD/BD player), it will need to get a HDCP handshake from your PJ, passthrough AVR, to the player. The player will do so every few seconds to make sure the digital connection stays secure. Whenever a new handshake fails, the player will stop sending out audio and video.

You can try downgrade to 1080i or 1080p/24 (if your PJ supports it) instead of 1080p/60. This will reduce the total bandwidth requirement on the HDMI cable and less likely fail.

Well Crap.

The cable is long (35 feet) but 1.3 and CL2 rated. Is there another cable solution that would work? What would be a more acceptable cable length?

How about the HDMI to cat5 converters? Would those help at all?

Another thought. The cable run has multiple connections. PJ to ceiling:ceiling jack:long run:wall jack:wall to receiver. Could that be the issue?

Hi guys -

I've read the first 50 pages of this thread and probably the last 10 or so. I have an issue that no one else has mentioned (unless it's in those 25 or so pages I didn't look at):

I have the 2500 hooked up to a Samsung HL61A750 via HDMI for video and an Onkyo HT-R540 via 7.1 analog. Picture quality is beautiful and audio is good except one thing. The TV also spits out audio. Is there any way to disable audio via HDMI? I don't want the TV playing audio from the player, and really don't want to have to turn the volume all the way down on the TV before I watch a movie. Pushing the mute button leaves a nice big icon on the screen to let you know that you've muted the set.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I'd say < 15ft. Anything over 25ft needs to have all the stars lined up when you install it


I don't have personal experience with them but read the manufaturer's information would be a good start. IMO, they should be better for your situation.