The "Z" Family Theater - Page 12

/\\ What he said

If you want to look further into building one of these, do a search on this forum, Home Theater Shack, and/or Google for "Sonosub" and you'll find LOTS of these builds. Mine is very, VERY tiny compared to many of the builds out there. Also, check out the link below for sizing your build.

http://www.subwoofer-builder.com/sonosub.htm

You can use it in conjuction with WinISD (also freeware) to help really fine tune a setup.

EDIT: BTW, where in Iowa are you located?

Just for fun really. I had a spare driver sitting around doing nothing.

I built a few in the 90's as well, but aside from a refresh on the sub in my signature, I haven't built my own sub in at least 10 years. This is the last sub I built in 1999 or 2000... I could have gotten away with only one of those subs, but it was fun. I wish I had kept the drivers as I would have love to build a couple sono's with them.




Got a chance to do a little more work on my current build today. I'm going to get the other baffle glued tomorrow and then go use a drill press to drill my holes and install Hurricane Nuts.





With the gasket on the port, it sits just a tad high. Screwing it down should make it flush.


Couldn't find the "egg crate" stuff, but this should work. It's a bit more dense than the old egg crate stuff I have for my blow up matress which I purchased about 8 years ago.



Couple of questions... I know a lot of people use about 6" of fiberglass on the port end, but I really hate that crap. Anyone know of an alternative that won't be so nasty and is nearly as good. I've been searching the web, but I haven't really found anything.

Also, I've seen some like to dampen the port as well. I have quite a bit of extra Dynamat from a computer build and was wondering if it would be beneficial to stick that on the OD of the port and then wrap with some more of the foam. Any thoughts?

I might give that a shot and see how it does. I really don't like working with fiberglass.

It just a mattress pad found at Wal-Mart for $10 or so.


I couldn't help but try out the unfinished sub at the back-side of the theater and boy did it make HUGE and very positive diference. There is more even sound throughout the room and more importantly it moved lots of clean bass to the seating position.

I must say that this has exceeded my expectation. The Klipsch sono sounds very smooth, hits low and and still has plenty of output. So far, I have less than $100 in the build. My buddy came over to hear it and all he could say was "wow". He thought it made the original Klipsch box sound like a toy.


EDIT: I've been running test tones and 20's to low 30hz tones showed in projector movement, rattling sconces, and doors.
Anyway, I'm very happy. I've been playing some scenes from movies just to experience the bass!

It's still not done, but here is what I have so far:








I need to find some time to go to the base wood hobby shop and use their drill press. Once that's complete, and I receive more Hurricane nuts, I'll be able to stain and poly the wood and then assemble.

Thank you. I'm trying to figure out how I want to do the legs now to ensure they are symetrical and straight. I think I'm going to go with 1" wood doweling and use a 1" forstner bit to sink it in about 1/4" to both the baffle and bottom plate. I'll screw and glue it to the baffle, then just use a screw/bolt for the bottom plate... It sounds good in my head anyway.


I am not sure of the power handling of the subwoofer driver itself. In the RW-12d conifiguration, it is powered by a 350w BASH amp. I have this currently powered by a 300w PE BASH plate amp and it seems like it's doing just fine. I was considering the Oaudio 500w amp, but I think I'm just going to pick up another PE 300S. I wish I had purchased it before the new year as they were on sale for $100.

I actually am running this sub wirelessly with the Outlaw OAW3 and it's been working GREAT. I was afraid it might sound off running it wirelessly, but I can't tell a difference. This saved me from having to run a wire since I didn't plan on putting a sub in the rear from the beginning.

I will actually be running it as a downfiring sub, but had to turn it up to test without bolting anything together. My SVS have a 2" gap, so I was looking at 2-2.5" gap on mine.

I think the upfiring looks cool, but I'd have to run a grill on it all the time as it would be easy to damage.

I actually have plywood ready to be cut for it. I was looking to put a 3/4" and 1/4" pieces together to make an inch thick plate.

What's the need for a strong reflection? It won't absorb the frequencies coming out of this thing.

I actually have plywood ready to be cut for it. I was looking to put a 3/4" and 1/4" pieces together to make an inch thick plate.

I wouldn't imagine the wavelength being produced would be effected by the difference of plywood to MDF base plate.

The are quite a few downfiring subs tha do not use a plate and actually suggest to be placed over carpet. Where are you getting your information?

SVS uses plywood

I've seen more and more speakers using plywood these days.

I own two PC12-NSD's and pulled back the fabric a little and there is plywood. Also: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post15335691

I can't tell you what my base plate is made out of, it's laminated. How did you determine what yours is made of?

My response was to your plywood comment on current speaker builds. I'm sure SVS also used MDF (especially on the boxes), but what I have seen so far with the cylinders is plywood.