Signature Elite 141 Owners Thread - Page 64

Right, I know they're somewhere in the threads. The problem is, where? This thread is 64 pages long, and the 9G thread is longer. Searching for break-in brings up zillions of hits. You wouldn't happen to know roughly where in the thread they're posted?

Here you go. Look for the 141 break in settings.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post14384866

When I used D-Nice's break in setting's. I set contrast at 45 and color at +10.
I broke my 141 in for about 150 hours, but that's only because I only watch BD films.
The main thing to remember is use source material that fills your screen and no static images for more than 15 min at a time for the first 150 hours.

Thanks!

thanks i will give it a try, will try to pull a cable to it. Wish they had wireless like the PS3

Hello and happy holidays. I am taking delivery of a 141 next week. The room in which the 141 will be setup includes a couch that is about 12 feet away from the wall the 141 will be mounted on. What is the conventional wisdom on how high the bottom edge of the 141 should be off the floor?

Thanks.

I have D-Nice's recommended breakin settings to be used on the 141 with the breakin DVD. My question is what do I do after I am done with break-in. Do I return the changed settings back to where they were before I started the breaki-in, or is there something else that I am supposed to do?

Thanks Vancouver. I'm already scheduled for a calibration in March. So if I understand the process correctly: 1. Use the Evangelo2 Break-In DVD with D-Link's recommended break-in settings, for 150 hours. 2. After Break-In and before calibration, use PURE mode to watch TV and movies. 3. Have professional calibration performed.

Thanks.

"What is the conventional wisdom on how high the bottom edge of the 141 should be off the floor?"

We set up displays by figuring out the average height above the floor of a viewer's eyes when sitting on the couch and looking straight and level at the wall, and make the display's horizontal centerline have that same height above the floor.

Once you've established a centerline that way, it works for any size of display (because the viewer's eyes will always be in the same location, unless you get a different couch), so mounting new displays just involves positioning the bracket's centerline on the established centerline.

it's your display and you need to determine what you like the best for your viewing setup. until the Pro141 comes in just get a peice of cardboard cut to the pro141 size and experiment to see what you like the best.

Our 141 is being installed today. Once it's installed, I'm going to follow the break-in steps (and thank you very much everyone who has contributed to those!). But I have a question I haven't seen answered anywhere:

I have an external scaler. Once the display is broken in, I plan to set the display in dot-for-dot mode, and drive it from the scaler. But during break-in, should I do that, or should I send an un-upconverted DVD signal to the display, and let the display do the upconversion, or does it matter? I can't put the display in Orbiter mode 1 with dot-for-dot enabled, and the break-in instrucations say to use mode 1, which is what got me started thinking about this.

Assuming I should let the display upconvert during break-in, what should I send to it from the scaler? Just 480i?

The reason for the break-in is to accelerate the break-in time and to have a uniformed pattern on your display.

As far as up converting goes. It doesn't matter. What ever you like best.

As far as using a external scaler goes, why do you want to use one with your 141 ?

Does the break-in instructions call for Dot to Dot mode? Why do you want to use Dot to Dot for break-in ? And as long as your break-in pattern doesn't hang up there is no need for Orbiter. However you could put Orbiter mode to 2.

I leave Orbiter off, because I only use my 141 for movies. Therefor there is no static images and no need to have Orbiter turned on.

Thanks!

I use the external scaler because it is better than what's in the 141.

Hey guys, quick question

If I were to buy a user friendly home based calibration DVD, what would you reccommend?

And does anyone know of professional calibrators in Edmonton, Alberta?

Thanks for your input

"I leave Orbiter off, because I only use my 141 for movies. Therefor there is no static images and no need to have Orbiter turned on."

Do you resize 2.35:1 movies to fill the screen vertically? If not, you still have black bars, and those can cause image persistence.

I found a glitch with our 141 I'm hoping someone can help with.

We live in the Santa Cruz mountains (about 90 minutes south of San Francisco). We have bad power from the power company, and no generator. So, every time there's a storm, we get power outages, ranging from a couple of minutes to several days (the record for our neighborhood is six).

On our old flat panel, which we replaced with the 141, when the power went out, we had to be very careful to unplug the panel, because otherwise when the power came back on, if we had been watching something, it came back on not in standby mode, but in display mode. And when the DVD player came back on, it opened the tray and displayed "OPEN" on the flat panel. For however long it was before we found this out and shut it off.

We had hoped the Pioneer engineers would realize that this is dangerous, but, sadly, when I tested the 141 by pulling the power plug out of the wall while playing the break-in DVD and then plugging the power back in, the thing came on in display mode, not standby. So it has the exact same potentially fatal design flaw.

Does anyone know if there's a way to configure the 141 to fail open instead of closed in the event of a power outage? Ideally it would not even come up in standby mode, but stay off until the power switch is pressed. But I'd settle for it coming up in standby mode.

If there's no solution to this in software, I'll have to install a deadman cutout in the wall.

what are the advantages of the signature series over the standard elite? other than a thinner set? also, i thought these sets were exposed to 100hr break in before being able to be sold? are there any nags with the signature series as opposed to the standard elite?

thanks.

Thinner was a consideration for us--it improves the imaging between our front speakers.

The 141 is *really* thin. We're liking it so far. Just wish it wouldn't burn out after a power outage.

No I do not re size anything. Orbiter will not help much with letter box film. imo Orbiter may cause jidder in some scenes. Thats why in my ISF settings I have Obiter off. I also have a Lumagen, but would never use it in my chain for my 141.

I don't mount my 141 on the wall because of the benefits I gain by having my 141 2 feet from the wall so my back reflects off my light gray wall.

I have one goal. And that is the best picture I can get from my 141.

Have you considered the power management options? Section 5.6, p.45 of the manual. You have "AV Source - No signal" and "AV Source - Non operational". Using those, I believe that the most the screen could be on is 3 hours, which should not be that much of a problem if the "Open" message from the DVD is not torch white....

Dan.

The "OPEN" message is pure white!

I'll see if I can figure out what AV source non-operational means. The "OPEN" message is a signal, so AV source no-signal doesn't look like it will work.

Some initial impressions of the 141:

- Very thin. Lays practically flat against the wall.

- Looks great when turned off.

- Looks great when turned on.

- No sign of blotches.

- No dead pixels. None.

- No fan noise. None.

- Slight (very slight, almost inaudible) buzz if we put our heads closer than 18" to the screen, but we tend not to watch TV from 18" (more like 12'), so it's really not a problem.

I'm running the break-in DVD, and the player sees chapters. I thought it had no chapters--was just one big chapter. Is that not the case? I burned it using the .iso file in the Zip, so there wasn't much I could screw up.

Based on some work I participated in at SRI International a few years ago, you should be more concerned about surges when your power comes back on.

I have son and a sister-in-law that live in your area, so I'm very familiar with your power problems. In your situation, I would also look for a surge protector that includes line conditioning.

I would also disconnect the display from it's power source any time there is a power failure. That's the best surge protection possible.

The problem is, we might not be home when the power comes back on.