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Signature Elite 141 Owners Thread - Page 126

post #3751 of 5242
Thanks, Dan. I try to keep up on this stuff, but you guys are really the experts.

You are right about the auto-size. I have this on for TV viewing, to compensate for program switching between 4:3 and full screen (mostly local news and commercials). However, the Bluray player is connected to a different input, where Dot-by-Dot would be a better choice.

I misstated the problem. More accurately, the Pioneer PDP does not remember screen size for each video input. Because the PDP is set to auto-size, when I turn it on for viewing a Bluray movie, I have to reset the screen size. Ideally, I would program this into the remote using a discrete IR code--but these don't seem to be working.
post #3752 of 5242
Quote:
Originally Posted by info_dan View Post

You can login to Logitech's web site (http://logitech-en-amr.custhelp.com/...acct_login.php) and enter an issue asking them to add hex codes to your Harmony account, it is free to do so. They didn't even complain when I asked them to enter all the missing codes from the 141 & my SC-07 (over 100 new codes!)

Dan - thanks, I'll get on that later this week. Do I have Harmony support add the HEX codes individually (ie, via one "request" for Dot-by-Dot HEX code, another "request" for FULL1 HEX code, etc), or can I include your entire HEX code list at once?

I've used Harmony remotes for many years now (even before Logitech bought Intrigue Technologies), but have never had to request this kind of service. I'll report back when I've got everything programmed in...

Thanks again!
post #3753 of 5242
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vernn View Post

Nonetheless, it's not fixing the problem.

Yeah. I'm going to fiddle with this for a while and see if I can resolve the problem either by splitting the commands or converting them to a single sequence (or something else). My long term solution is probably going to be switching to RTI and serial control.
post #3754 of 5242
Quote:
Originally Posted by sillysally View Post

Umm. I don't know if there is a big difference between build dates.
However its not the different players we are using to calibrate. Both the BD-83 and the BD-09 are neutral.

You may want to try and leave red high at 0 and green high at 0 and bring Blue high up to over +10.
You are always better off leaving Geen high and low at 0.

I think that the 101 are much differant than the 141.
I did a 101 for a AVS member that is local to me and the settings were much differant. I hardly had to make any changes to the H/L grayscale.

ss

I am going to look at it tonight, question though, my green and blue hover around 100% but the red is like 113% or so. If I add more blue instead of take red away wont that make them read the same but all of them over 100%
post #3755 of 5242
I was using a canister of compressed air to blow off the surface dust from the screen of my 141 and some compressed air in liquid form sprayed onto the screen- Should I be worried about there being any damage? I used the microfiber cloth with a little water so far! Anyone have any advice as to what I can expect? Do I run the risk of removing some coating on the surface of the screen? Could anything behind the surface glass be damaged by such a chemical?
post #3756 of 5242
Quote:
Originally Posted by mak99 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by info_dan View Post
You can login to Logitech's web site (http://logitech-en-amr.custhelp.com/...acct_login.php) and enter an issue asking them to add hex codes to your Harmony account, it is free to do so. They didn't even complain when I asked them to enter all the missing codes from the 141 & my SC-07 (over 100 new codes!)
Dan - thanks, I'll get on that later this week. Do I have Harmony support add the HEX codes individually (ie, via one "request" for Dot-by-Dot HEX code, another "request" for FULL1 HEX code, etc), or can I include your entire HEX code list at once?

I've used Harmony remotes for many years now (even before Logitech bought Intrigue Technologies), but have never had to request this kind of service. I'll report back when I've got everything programmed in...

Thanks again!
Yes, you can request more than one code at a time (I did not send them over 100 different requests ). I have attached a corrected version of the original Pioneer list as an mht file in the .zip. You can send them this file with your request and tell them which codes you want added.

Dan.

Edit 20090822: Added zip file (ooops!)

 

CORRECTED ELITE 9G MONITOR IR & HEX.zip 78.01171875k . file
post #3757 of 5242
Quote:
Originally Posted by Parrish View Post

I was using a canister of compressed air to blow off the surface dust from the screen of my 141 and some compressed air in liquid form sprayed onto the screen- Should I be worried about there being any damage? I used the microfiber cloth with a little water so far! Anyone have any advice as to what I can expect? Do I run the risk of removing some coating on the surface of the screen? Could anything behind the surface glass be damaged by such a chemical?

Parrish, Pioneer does not recommend use of any liquid on the plasma. After a lot of research and talking to my dealer, I settled on AudioQuest Gel that I apply only if I see figure prints or smudges. Else, I just use a microfiber cloth to clean the screen. It is very difficult to say if the spray liquid has peeled off the AR coating. Stay away from water.
post #3758 of 5242
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheaterLover View Post

Parrish, Pioneer does not recommend use of any liquid on the plasma. After a lot of research and talking to my dealer, I settled on AudioQuest Gel that I apply only if I see figure prints or smudges. Else, I just use a microfiber cloth to clean the screen. It is very difficult to say if the spray liquid has peeled off the AR coating. Stay away from water.

Luckily I didn't get any liquid behind the screen, but in an area about the size of half a dollar bill, there is some slight discoloration leading me to believe that there is still some chemical residue that could come off or after using the microfiber and few drops of water, I removed some of the resin in that small area- I can only see the discoloration if at an angle with the sun illuminating a reflection. I will consider myself lucky and be extra careful from now on! Damn dust!
post #3759 of 5242
Quote:
Originally Posted by madkaw View Post

I am going to look at it tonight, question though, my green and blue hover around 100% but the red is like 113% or so. If I add more blue instead of take red away wont that make them read the same but all of them over 100%

What are you using to get H/L measurements ?

No not necessarily. Raising blue may lower red but keep green inline so you don't have to + or - green. Of course all this depends on what CS you are using and what gamma you are using, along with your luminance.

Also you want to make sure that whatever your pattern source is, that its neutral.
Its for that reason why you shouldn't use any enhancements in your BD/HD/SD player or what ever your source is.

btw. I am not saying that +/- red is a bad thing, all I am saying is you are better off not +/- green.

ss
post #3760 of 5242
Quote:
Originally Posted by Parrish View Post

Luckily I didn't get any liquid behind the screen, but in an area about the size of half a dollar bill, there is some slight discoloration leading me to believe that there is still some chemical residue that could come off or after using the microfiber and few drops of water, I removed some of the resin in that small area- I can only see the discoloration if at an angle with the sun illuminating a reflection. I will consider myself lucky and be extra careful from now on! Damn dust!

I wouldn't worry about it. Chances are the liquid that came from your air can is just condensation. And what has happened is you made a clean spot. I doubt you can see the spot when you have something displayed. After time it should just blend in.

I would not use any type of cleaner on your screen. Just use the cloth to dust off the screen, and make sure before you use the cloth to check for anything that might be abrasive. If you feel that it is really necessary, then just lightly dampen your cloth with distilled water. But if you do that then you will get a clean spot.

ss
post #3761 of 5242
Hello forum - I have not been here much this summer and it was nice to see some new names / owners here...

I am having a scary scary problem I just notice on my Elite Signature

About 11 inches from left side and exactly 50% of height of screen from bottom is a 1 Pixel wide green line. YIKES.

I have a good dealer who even traded a over buzzing unit and this one is so so quiet. Funny how I almost want them to fix this - maybe some board problem because why would it be exactly 50%

Troubleshooting - TRIED ALL INPUTS, RAN THE SCREEN BAR (WHITE) PROGRAM and the line exists definitely.

Any reset ideas that might help? Is there a name for this so when I call Pioneer of Canada I can get the jump on the problem. I dont think my dealer will be too excited about replacing another unit ...

Hope everyone's summer has been good. Oddly I am not too freaked - yet!

So go easy on me

Cary
TORONTO
If you wish to PM me instead no problem. I am sure I will PM Silly Sally for his thoughts tomorrow. He's my Pioneer flock Shepperd !!
post #3762 of 5242
Quote:
Originally Posted by info_dan View Post

Yes, you can request more than one code at a time (I did not send them over 100 different requests ). I have attached a corrected version of the original Pioneer list as an mht file in the .zip. You can send them this file with your request and tell them which codes you want added.

Dan.

File is now attached to my previous post...
post #3763 of 5242
Folks,

My setup is {Oppo BD-83 and Satellite TV} connected to DVDO Edge connected to Pioneer Pro-101FD. When watching standard definition interlaced program on the Satellite TV or standard definition DVD on the OPPO, I notice that there is a thin black bar on the right hand side. It sometimes goes away on its own. It also goes away when I enter by screen menu (I actually notice the entire screen image shift a bit to the right). I have tried this with various screen size and auto size settings. Any insights?

Thanks
post #3764 of 5242
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheaterLover View Post

Folks,

My setup is {Oppo BD-83 and Satellite TV} connected to DVDO Edge connected to Pioneer Pro-101FD. When watching standard definition interlaced program on the Satellite TV or standard definition DVD on the OPPO, I notice that there is a thin black bar on the right hand side. It sometimes goes away on its own. It also goes away when I enter by screen menu (I actually notice the entire screen image shift a bit to the right). I have tried this with various screen size and auto size settings. Any insights?

Thanks

I was curious in that I have a similar setup with the Oppo and the Edge and the 141- do you run the Oppo through the Edge? Others have suggested
bypassing the Edge and going right to the Pre/pro which in my case is a Denon 5308.

As far as the thin bar on the right side of the screen, I have been playing with a media server that I just built, and I notice something similar happening when that is the input to the Edge.
post #3765 of 5242
Quote:
Originally Posted by richpat View Post

I was curious in that I have a similar setup with the Oppo and the Edge and the 141- do you run the Oppo through the Edge? Others have suggested
bypassing the Edge and going right to the Pre/pro which in my case is a Denon 5308.

As far as the thin bar on the right side of the screen, I have been playing with a media server that I just built, and I notice something similar happening when that is the input to the Edge.

I indeed run OPPO through EDGE and set Source Direct on OPPO. As far as video processing is concerned, it should not make much of a difference since OPPO and EDGE both have the same AnchorBay chip. For Audio, I don't think EDGE does any audio processing and will essentially pass it untouched to your amp. EDGE does allow you to control audio delay to address lip sync issues.

I think I have figured out part of the problem: the shift in the picture when I enter the screen menu happens only if the orbiter is on. It is interesting that for standard definition interlaced video, the pixel shift is "significant" but not noticeable while watching content. In some ways, it is good news as this eliminates burn-in.

Still looking for answer to why the bar on the right side.
post #3766 of 5242
Quote:
Originally Posted by info_dan View Post

File is now attached...

Dan - I didn't see any attachments? Am I not looking at the right posting?
post #3767 of 5242
Quote:
Originally Posted by mak99 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by info_dan View Post

File is now attached...

Dan - I didn't see any attachments? Am I not looking at the right posting?

I meant that the file is now attached to my original post, sorry for the confusion.

Dan.
post #3768 of 5242
Signature owners, I need your help.

I recently purchased a Signature 101 and it appears to be a good one. Minimal buzz, only 1 stuck pixel in the lower corner of the screen, no streaks or blotches.

However, I just noticed that my back panel isn't perfectly flat. The back panel is the thin piece of metal that covers the back of the monitor. It has the air vent holes. Anyway, this piece of metal isn't perfectly smooth and flat. There is a slight bulge on the right side over one of the air holes and about 6 inches in length. It's almost like a mild dent front the inside. It's not that obvious, but you can see it from an angle and feel it with your hands. I know this is purely a cosmetic issue, but the signature monitors come with a certificate attesting to their performance and cosmetic perfection, and this isn't perfect and it irks me. I'm struggling with whether I should fight with my dealer for an exchange, or live with it. I'm afraid of getting another one with a perfect back panel but a louder buzz, or more dead pixels.

Can you please check your back panels carefully and tell me if they're perfectly uniform? It helps to see them in bright daylight and at an angle. Also feel with your hands.

Thanks a lot for your help!
post #3769 of 5242
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rosso_Corsa View Post

Signature owners, I need your help.

I recently purchased a Signature 101 and it appears to be a good one. Minimal buzz, only 1 stuck pixel in the lower corner of the screen, no streaks or blotches.

However, I just noticed that my back panel isn't perfectly flat. The back panel is the thin piece of metal that covers the back of the monitor. It has the air vent holes. Anyway, this piece of metal isn't perfectly smooth and flat. There is a slight bulge on the right side over one of the air holes and about 6 inches in length. It's almost like a mild dent front the inside. It's not that obvious, but you can see it from an angle and feel it with your hands. I know this is purely a cosmetic issue, but the signature monitors come with a certificate attesting to their performance and cosmetic perfection, and this isn't perfect and it irks me. I'm struggling with whether I should fight with my dealer for an exchange, or live with it. I'm afraid of getting another one with a perfect back panel but a louder buzz, or more dead pixels.

Can you please check your back panels carefully and tell me if they're perfectly uniform? It helps to see them in bright daylight and at an angle. Also feel with your hands.

Thanks a lot for your help!

Mine is flat. If you are happy with all other aspects of the monitor and cannot live with the crooked back panel, I will suggest to contact Pioneer and get that part replaced.
post #3770 of 5242
Quote:
Originally Posted by info_dan View Post

I meant that the file is now attached to my original post, sorry for the confusion.

No worries - thanks!
post #3771 of 5242
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rosso_Corsa View Post

Signature owners, I need your help.

I recently purchased a Signature 101 and it appears to be a good one. Minimal buzz, only 1 stuck pixel in the lower corner of the screen, no streaks or blotches.

However, I just noticed that my back panel isn't perfectly flat. The back panel is the thin piece of metal that covers the back of the monitor. It has the air vent holes. Anyway, this piece of metal isn't perfectly smooth and flat. There is a slight bulge on the right side over one of the air holes and about 6 inches in length. It's almost like a mild dent front the inside. It's not that obvious, but you can see it from an angle and feel it with your hands. I know this is purely a cosmetic issue, but the signature monitors come with a certificate attesting to their performance and cosmetic perfection, and this isn't perfect and it irks me. I'm struggling with whether I should fight with my dealer for an exchange, or live with it. I'm afraid of getting another one with a perfect back panel but a louder buzz, or more dead pixels.

Can you please check your back panels carefully and tell me if they're perfectly uniform? It helps to see them in bright daylight and at an angle. Also feel with your hands.

Thanks a lot for your help!

I cant check the back of mine but I can say I inspected every inch before installing and didnt notice it. Stuff like that irks me too so I know how you feel. If you paid full MSRP then I would ask for an exchange. If you got a much better price I would easily live with it.

just my opinion.
post #3772 of 5242
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rosso_Corsa View Post

Can you please check your back panels carefully and tell me if they're perfectly uniform? It helps to see them in bright daylight and at an angle. Also feel with your hands.

The back of my 500M is perfectly flat. Signature or not I'd certainly be concerned about any deformation in the sheet metal because, unless it's extremely subtle, it almost certainly happened after final test and inspection.
post #3773 of 5242
Thanks for your opinions, guys.

Upon closer inspection it's not Sheet Metal, it's actually plastic. Which is bizarre, because I can't see how the plastic can deform like that.

Can you tell me if your 141s and 500ms have a metal back panel or plastic?
post #3774 of 5242
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rosso_Corsa View Post

Thanks for your opinions, guys.

Upon closer inspection it's not Sheet Metal, it's actually plastic. Which is bizarre, because I can't see how the plastic can deform like that.

Can you tell me if your 141s and 500ms have a metal back panel or plastic?

I'm 99.9% sure that my 141 has an all-metal back. I can check this weekend...

Attached pic is just before I wall-mounted the 141. Ignore the rope light wrapped around the mounting arms - it was removed at the last minute and replaced with a D6500 (+/-) DIY light from HD!

Rosso, is the bump in your back panel look like it's supposed to be there, like it's making room for an internal component? Can you take a picture of it?


LL
post #3775 of 5242
That's what's bizarre: there is nothing behind it to push it out or to make room to accommodate a component. It's hard to say whether yours is perfect from the picture you posted. The flash and the angle aren't conductive to seeing it. You need an angle more extreme, like close to the TV's profile view. Best to run your hands over it to know for sure. I can also see subtle flexing of the plastic panel at all the screw entry points.

My back panel looks almost identical to yours in design, but it is plastic on mine.

I will try to take some pictures tonight. I'm not sure if they will show it.

Thanks for your continued help in getting to the bottom of my back panel mystery.

We at AVS are a picky bunch.
post #3776 of 5242
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rosso_Corsa View Post

Upon closer inspection it's not Sheet Metal, it's actually plastic.

The 500M and by implication the 101FD back is (ferrous) sheet metal although it looks and sounds a bit like plastic. Try sticking a magnet to it.
post #3777 of 5242
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mak99 View Post

I'm 99.9% sure that my 141 has an all-metal back. I can check this weekend...

Attached pic is just before I wall-mounted the 141. Ignore the rope light wrapped around the mounting arms - it was removed at the last minute and replaced with a D6500 (+/-) DIY light from HD!

Rosso, is the bump in your back panel look like it's supposed to be there, like it's making room for an internal component? Can you take a picture of it?


Not rope light!




slightly sarcastic, but there is a great read on the importance of the light color on ideal lumes site.

http://www.cinemaquestinc.com/ideal_lume.htm
post #3778 of 5242
Quote:
Originally Posted by bodosom View Post

The 500M and by implication the 101FD back is (ferrous) sheet metal although it looks and sounds a bit like plastic. Try sticking a magnet to it.

You're right.

I'm embarassed. It sounds like plastic when I knock on it, but once the TV cooled down it definitely felt cool to the touch like metal.

Still deciding what to do. Dealer is willing to give me an exchange, but I'm terrified of getting one with buzzing, blotches, or more dead pixels!!!

I'm stuck. Having Pioneer come and replace just the back panel is not an option. I would rather live with it than to have a tech open up a perfectly functioning TV.
post #3779 of 5242
fianlly I'm an owner of a pro-101fd...
no cracks
but I have a question....I can see on each side a series of kind of dot...this looks like the beggining and ending of the pixels matrix or something...is itnormal that it's not hidden by the frame??? the picture kind of stop there (can't see this thing on the top and bottom)

+ mine is apr 2009 (i remeber d-nice said something abouth manufacturing dates)
somethign wrong with this date...something to watch???
post #3780 of 5242
Quote:
Originally Posted by vancouver View Post

Not rope light!




slightly sarcastic, but there is a great read on the importance of the light color on ideal lumes site.

http://www.cinemaquestinc.com/ideal_lume.htm

Don't worry, the rope light never made it to the wall with my 141! I did have a rope light behind my old Hitachi 55HDX99, so was going to reuse it with the 141 as I was tired of spending money that month!

I had read plenty on the IdeaLume thread before I rec'd my 141, but was not crazy about having to shell out another C-note for the dual Panelight assembly. Since my current single backlight from Home Depot (18" fluorescent fixture w/ a "listed" D6500 bulb bought separately) seems to be about the correct brightness level using the 10% window via DVE, I'll most likely upgrade that home-brew fixture to a single Ideal-Lume Standard light, since I know that will be the best fixture possible.

Always tweaking something!
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