Signature Elite 141 Owners Thread - Page 137

Yikes, not what I wanted to hear. So at the very least, a circuit board was replaced on my 141. What is a common cause for this to need to be replaced?This wouldn't have anything to do wih the display's poor white/brightness would it? I'd like to get some feedback from other users about how they rate their Elite's white level performance and brightness.

I just updated my ISF night settings.
See link.
http://www.controlcal.com/forum/show...5&postcount=28

ss

Peter,

Back to -15 for sharpness with Enhancer = 1, again?

I've been playing around with those buggers for weeks now. Remember we started out at -15/1 then I think you went -9/2 and I settled on -10/1 (which is where I still am). That was after a foray of intermediate steps, between -9/2 and -12/1

What did you notice that prompted the switch back to where we started? I may have to go at it again

, Well as you know I like to tweak and get the most out of my system for AQ/PQ. So I am not saying that this is necessary but still for my system using the latest firmware from Oppo, these new settings give me the best balanced PQ for my Kuro 141.
Remember that every time you change some settings there is give and take involved, and you the user must deiced for yourself what is best for your system and environment. The key word hear is Balanced.

Now if you really want me to bake your brain here goes.

When I first got my BD-83 I tried a Nordost Vishnu power cord on it, but imo using the stock power cord for the BD-83 was better.

Lately I have been tweaking my Audio gear (tube rolling) and just on a lark I tried my Black Sand Violet V1 power cord (made in Canada) on my BD-83 that I was using for my Amp. I noticed a big improvement with my AQ and the new Tubes I was using. But as I said you must Balance your total system for PQ/AQ. After viewing a BD for about 20 minuets I saw a improvement in clarity for PQ. . So now I am getting excited about all these new revelations maybe a second Violet V1 power cord for my Amp would improve AQ even more, so now I am just waiting for it. Right now I am using my Nordost Vishnu power cord for my Amp.

btw; I also hear a much improved AQ for my CD/SACDs, using my BD-83. I was thinking about getting a DAT for my audio system but imo there is no need now.

Here is a link that I have found so far to be right on the money for power cords.
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/2649695-post1.html

ss

I enjoy tweaking, too

One of the concerns I had with my 141 was that mounting it over the fireplace required a 15' power cord. It was that or do some extensive in-wall wiring to locate an outlet behind the display. That was not worth the effort.

I'm an electrical engineer by schooling and just don't buy into the power cord hype. The internal house wiring is 14 gauge. So, I used a stock 14 gauge power cord, from my power conditioner/surge suppressor (yes, a good one of these can make a difference, where as a "cord" cannot) to the 141.

All my gear is powered from this conditioner, which has high current response, so peak draws don't lag. I have instrumented this.

Science proves to me that the best way to provide clean, reliable power to our audio/video gear is to spend big money on that device. A "power cord", no matter how it may be constructed is just an extension of the electrical path that it is connected to.

Anyway, we'll probably find folks on both sides of this discussion and this isn't the place for that discussion. But, my advice on the subject is to research some top-end power conditioners and see what they can do for providing clean, transient-free, stable voltage, high-current power to your gear

In the mean time, I think I have another night with the S&M disc, playing with sharpness settings on my 141

In my opinion, a tweaker's first investment should be in his equipment, but after you have obtained the best equipment that you can, the next investment should be in a good quality av rack to supress vibration! The next investment should be a high quality ac line conditioner to clean and protect your investment in electronics! After you reach this point you are definitely not done by any means, enhancing the sound of your system! Now it is time to begin investing in high quality speaker cables, interconnects and yes power cords! These are very important "components" which will take you to another level! And yes they do cost alot and require careful testing and experimentation, but they are well worth it! I personally have a cables dealer that allows me to demo cables before buying! Would you buy a Ferrari and not put the best tires on it that you could afford? Just like tires affect car's performance, cables affect electronics performance! You must do yourself a favor and try before you close the door on this! I could not live without my high end cables!

I honestly cannot tell if this is a sarcastic post or not.

punctuation hints yes.

1. Best equipment you can obtain - Check.
2. Good Quality AV Rack - Something other than stacking them on top of each other...yes.
3. High Quality AC Line Conditioner - Absolutely!
4. High Quality Speaker Cables - Yes... but, Read this before wasting your money
5. High Quality Power Cords - Even bigger bullsh*t than #4. Spend the money on more of #1.

Parrish.

You are right and so are the other posters that want to see scientific data on A/V cords and cables, and probably power conditioners.

I have done some fairly extensive visual/hearing work with power cords for my A/V gear. Why you ask visual/hearing tests, because I am not interested in the scientific end of my conclusions. All I am interested in is visual/hearing conclusions.

My conclusions are that there is a lot of snake oil cables out there, but not all of them.
My conclusion for are 141/101s is that the power cord that comes with are kuros is the best match. I have not been able to find a better balanced power cord for are displays. And please note I use the words match and balanced.

If any of you that base your conclusions on a scientific fact and want to flush $29 usd down the drain, or maybe not. Get a Iron lung jelly fish power cord and swap cords with the power cord that came with are 141/101. What you probably will see is a better black level, crushed whites in very bright levels and a cleaner picture but less detail.

In conclusion as the old saying goes "beauty is in the eyes of the beholder"

ss

Well, I was able to finagle Best Buy to give me a deal on the 151FD. They are selling it to me below the price of the Magnolia Ad for the 6020FD and BDP320 combo. They will deliver my new 151FD and take away my open item 141FD without me having to lug it to the store. I got pretty lucky. They had rung up my transaction wrong the first time and had to have the store's general manager come to clean up my purchase. Since I was at Best Buy for 2 hours while they we're trying to ring me up, I was able to get them to lower their price even further!

Thanks again to zoro for letting me know about the Magnolia Ad. If it wasn't for you this wouldn't be possible.

Any words of wisdom with regards to breaking in the 151FD?

You darn lucky one! Keep us posted. Send me pm, how did u do it and for how much?

I don't see where it is right on about anything at all! There is no proof of anything there.
As soon as he gets into the ridiculous statement about the break-in factor for power cords and says, "They require more break-in than ICs, and break-in effects are much more dramatic than with ICs." Then it's pretty much just like all the other BS proclaiming great things for power cables and various forms of audio cables.

I just got my 141FD today. With shipping guys still around, I plugged it in and it would not turn ON. I tried using the RC as well as the power switch on the right side of the unit. It still would not turn ON. So I am now just waiting for them to ship me another.

The unit looked good, no damage to the box.

This is very unusual. I am sure you have but I would go over everything. Even the simplest of things and make sure your wall socket is working and use that socket to plug in your 141. Make sure you just don't have a sticky power switch on the side of your 141. And also remember that just because you turn on the power from the power button there still will be no picture until you push the power button on your remote.

ss

Ok fair enough. When I get in the mood I will take a light reading.

In the mean time, you guys with a Oppo that got the AIX records disc. Give it a play and I think you will get some incite into high end audio gear.

ss

Yes, I checked the wall socket by plugging in a table lamp. The lamp was fine.

Every so often I could hear a soft clicking sound within the 141FD but it would not turn ON.

Does a little red or blue light come on just above the on/off button on the black bezel when you hear the soft clicks on your 141.

If not I am out of ideas, but I am sure you will really enjoy your replacement.

ss

No red or blue lights, there was no activity whatsoever except every so often there was a soft clicking sound. I was puzzled since I own another Kuro which works fine.

Did you try pushing the main power switch? The main power switch is on the bottom left corner where the red and blue LEDs are.

Yes, I tried it. Also look at the manual page 21, it says that you can turn ON the panel with any of the 3 buttons:

See attached jpeg.

I am also not getting any blue or red light.

yes, but in order to use those three buttons, the main switch/button on the lower left (looking at the tv) has to be pushed in.

on a side note, i highly enjoyed game one of the series last night sitting 7 feet from my 141! (it's only a temporary viewing distance until i get a stand...) better than being there methinks...

Does anybody know whether 141s were assembled even in early parts of 2009?

mine has an april 2009 build date.

I believe bouhhan is right and you just don't have the main power switch pushed on. See page 7 of the manual. Push in the button which is labeled number 3 in that first picture. It doesn't really make it clear but you push in the button on the bottom left edge (when looking from the front) and then you can turn on the TV with the remote or the standby/on button on the right side of the plasma. You would normally always want to leave that power button on the bottom left pushed in.

Can you tell me where I would look to see my 141's manufacture date?

it's on the box it came in - on the sticker - i think you can tell by the serial number too, but i'm not sure how...

Soooooo..... Watching the series again tonight (go Yankees!) on time Warner cable and I'm using silly sally's isf night settings.

I get bezel blurring blacks with bluray, but is anyone getting them with HDTV? If so, could you please share your provider and settings? Thanks!