Signature Elite 141 Owners Thread - Page 173

If your display got dammaged (one blown input), I'd strongly recommend you have it repaired now and covered by the insurance as well, if possible. Dammage could have occured in ways not yet visible, but that may show up over time. And the longer we wait for any repair, the higher the risk that parts may be difficult to obtain.

I appreciate the concern... this has not been an easy process.

I got a WDTV Live Plus media streamer and I have a choice in the video options for 8 or 16 bit.

I have an Elite Sig 101-FD.

Which is best for my set?

thx

bob

According to the WDTV Live Plus manual:

Note: 12 bit color is not compatible with all screens. If you select 12 bit color and your TV is not
compatible, display will be garbled. Wait 30 seconds and the media player will automatically default
back to 8 bit.

Yes, deep color setting, whatever that is? LOL

I didn't see a difference but was curious.


thx

bob

Assuming you mean 8 or 12 bit it doesn't matter. If your video chain will pass Deep Color 8 bit per pixel will show as 24bit on the info display and 12 bit per pixel will be displayed as 36bit.

16 bit per pixel is in the standard but the Kuro is documented as 8 or 12 only.

Sorry, 8 or 12 and it does show 24 or 36 bit. You are saying I won't see any difference in the PQ?

On another note, I have an output choice of 1080p 24,50, or 60 hz from the WD.

Which is best for my display? (m2ts, mkv files, streaming netflix)

thx

bob

Match the source (which should happen automatically). The display supports all of those framerates.

Try the Pioneer Store in Orange County, CA.

1 more setting that I need help with:


"select color space (set to Auto, or RGB
High, RGB Low, or YCbCr)."

The manual offers no explanation.


thx


bob

If you use AUTO at each end the devices will attempt to negotiate a common setting. This can fail so some folks say don't use auto. Kuro monitors also fail using AUTO if the other end sets RGB-CE (low, 235 etc). Otherwise RGB High is RGB 0-255, RGB Low is RGB 16-235 and YCbCr is probably YUV422. If it's YUV444 instead it will be obvious.

Thanks

I just checked and my 101 is set to auto on all the hdmi inputs.

Pic seems fine with both devices on auto but I am open to suggestions? What would you try next?

thx

bob

If you're happy what are you trying to fix?

Higher happiness, of course

Plus I'm a perfection seeking tweak


bob


edit: All kidding aside, I like to learn and always want to optimize my system just like you or anyone else.

D-Nice is on his way to calibrate. No clue what I am really getting into and hoping it is worth the money but regardless of that I am excited!

There is know way to know whether you will be happy. Some people like a picture that is not set according to the industry guidelines. My friend loves his 63" plasma with over-saturated colors and too much contrast. I would never try to talk him into an ISF calibration... he doesn't seek "correct".

I, only the other hand, will always have my main display calibrated. Now that I have seen the results, I am distracted when I watch other's displays.

I was skeptical about this...

...DeWayne came over and began the pretests. He stated he wasn't sure I would be able to notice much difference in the light. This made me more skeptical.

AMAZING! I had unlocked the isf's prior and even messed with the settings using a disc. The difference blew me away, even in the light. So excited and will always get my monitors calibrated from now on. The biggest skeptic, my wife, was sold too!

It was honestly like someone took a rag and wiped a very light film from the screen...everything was more clear, more pop, more dynamic...CRAZY!

Excellent. If you wouldn't mind (not that D-Nice needs more praise) posting your calibration report in htwait's report thread it helps everyone.

I would but I have no clue where to start. Any step by step directions?

Click HERE to go to the last page. Look at a couple of reviews and then post yours. You can just cut and paste the text from here or add something different.

Or you can PM htwaits and he'll repost your report for you.

I'll post a link to your report in the list that's linked at the bottom of my post.

Edit: Done.

I just received my pro 101fd today. I now have both the pro 101fd and the pro 111fd. I think im going to do a side by side comparison in a pitch black room to see how much blacker the 101 really is.

Nice
Where did you get it?
How much did it cost?

I got it from Walts TV for $2800. They're located in Arizona. It feels good being a part of the Signature family. These tvs are so hard to find!

Do they sell em online? I live in FL. Thinking about getting on if I can get it for a great price as you just did.

Anyone feel free to chime in!

Yeah they sell online. walts.com. I think I got the last one though..

Dam it! No luck for me! Thanks for the info though.

Wow! They have em in stock but no where near the price you've said!

Your very welcome. Yeah that is the original price. You have to call them. Ask for Miles. Hopefully he will give you a better price. Good luck!

In my searching, I think that I already know the answer to this, but has anyone discovered or devised any way to use a universal remote (an XSight ARRX18G, in this case) to select AV modes with any precision? I want to be able to select Game mode for when I am using my PS3, and an ISF mode for everything else. Since the XSight has no "state", I don't see a good way to do this.

I believe that I've seen some reference to setting things up with multiple HDMI inputs, which I'd rather not mess with. If only I'd gotten an AV receiver with 2 HDMI outs. I really don't like the idea of putting a switch in the mix, for fear of confusing, frustrating, and otherwise complicating things for my wife.