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Samsung DLP: Ballast or power supply?

post #1 of 3
Thread Starter 
My out-of-warranty Samsung DLP(HLR4667WAX/XAA) has been plagued with issues for the last 6 weeks. Each time I repair, something new happens a few weeks later.

First week of July, it was the lamp. Two weeks later, the color wheel. Now, after two weeks of use, the set won't turn on at all. For what it helps, the TV seems to make all the startup noises that I would expect - Just no picture.

Last week, the TV exhibited similar symptoms if I turned it on while the Xbox is on. If I turned the TV on before the Xbox, It would turn on most of the time. Now it wont turn on at all.

My research tells me it could be the ballast or the power supply. I'm not sure which direction to follow. I've read a lot of accounts of people who replaced their ballast and still met failure. Has anyone been through this, and if so, how did you finally resolve it? I'm thiiiiis close to buying a new TV because of all of the issues I've had within the last 6 weeks.
post #2 of 3
Same exact model, same exact problem this week.

I've removed the rear cover and cleaned out the whole works, and verified the interlock switch was being tripped. I even tried to jumper it closed and run with it open to see if that was an issue.

The TV starts up, I get the whine and the lamp lights up nice and bright. The TV goes through its 3 startup cycles with the LAMP indicator flashing just like normal, but eventually it sits for a moment with everything started up and then jumps back to standby. No LED codes.

Before the thing went toast, I had a couple lockups and a situation where after boot it would display jagged computer-like lines horizontally on the screen. A "reboot" would fix it.

I am thinking my power supply or DMD board is the culprit. I know a DMD board is beyond what I will spend to resurrect this television, even though the cost of ownership has been about 700 bucks a year. The power supply looks reasonably priced, but I don't know if I want to start throwing darts without knowing for sure.

Plan B is a 46" 1080i LCD, which I am going to do if I spend another night searching for the solution without a solid idea of what's wrong.
post #3 of 3
Wish I had a better update, but amount of posts I have found all over the internet with a similar problem and no followup are frustrating, so I'll add my experience.

Called 1-800-SAMSUNG and described the problem. It's not a problem they could solve or diagnose over the phone. Since the TV is out of warranty, the only thing they could recommend was for me to have a technican come to my house and perform a diagnosis. This would cost $150. Beyond that, it's parts and labor.

If I could repair it myself, I'd be tempted to go for it. I can't find a solid direction, though, and don't want to start throwing $200 parts at a 720p TV that's worth $400-500 on the street.

I believe I will wind up writing this set off and getting a 1080p LCD or plasma set. I haven't decided if I need to go off the handle on Samsung yet or not- I feel I paid way too much for ~ 2,300 hours of use.
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