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Panasonic PT-AE3000 info and video here - Page 12

post #331 of 1358
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by luismanrara View Post

Excuse my ignorance but even though I have always been interested in the anamorphic lens idea, it always seemed too complicated and expensive a proposition for me to do. it seems like this projector may solve the problem at a reasonable price,

If I bought the Panasonic PT-AE3000 what changes would I need to make to my 138" 16X9 wall screen set up, if at all, and what would I have to do for material shot in 1.85:1, 1.66:1, etc.

It depends what size of 16:9 and 2.35:1 image you want to have with the final setup.
If you wanted 138" 16:9 screen opening up to a 2/35:1 image of the same height, you would have to check you have enough brightness and also that your throw distance would accommodate it.
The same is true if you want to use a constant height image, as you will still lose brightness when you zoom larger, and you will still need some zoom headroom.

When it comes to different ARs, there are 3 presets available on the pj - any other variations and you would either have to accept that it might not fit your screen perfectly (over or underscan) or adjust manually. The presence of subtitles often outside the picture area complicates matters further.
post #332 of 1358
Quote:
Originally Posted by tryingtimes View Post

The presence of subtitles often outside the picture area complicates matters further.

I've got a nice solution to this on my 2.35:1 screen: I've added a strip of black velvet to the bottom of my screen. This masks the bottom black bar when watching zoomed 2.35:1 films, but if the subtitles appear in the black bar I can still read them, just a bit dimmer than normal. They are usually pure white letters which still shows up against the black velvet. Adding this strip has improved my picture for 2.35:1 as I used to be able to make out the bottom bar against the dark brown wall behind my screen. Now the picture really seems to hang in a black hole. That's with an AE2000, so I reckon the AE3000 would only look better still.
post #333 of 1358
Quote:
Originally Posted by tryingtimes View Post

It depends what size of 16:9 and 2.35:1 image you want to have with the final setup.
If you wanted 138" 16:9 screen opening up to a 2/35:1 image of the same height, you would have to check you have enough brightness and also that your throw distance would accommodate it.
The same is true if you want to use a constant height image, as you will still lose brightness when you zoom larger, and you will still need some zoom headroom.

When it comes to different ARs, there are 3 presets available on the pj - any other variations and you would either have to accept that it might not fit your screen perfectly (over or underscan) or adjust manually. The presence of subtitles often outside the picture area complicates matters further.

I have the throw distance, that is if the 3000 holds the same specs as the 2000 in this regard. I can zoom back and I even get the picture reflected on the side walls

In your opinion and based on experience, If this feature on the AE3000 projector did its job as it should, Would I see an improvement in PQ with movies with an 2.35:1 aspect ratio or Will I likely end up with a bigger picture and a less sharp image?
I can't hide the fact that I'm drooling over the possibility of filling the whole wall with a high definition image.

By the way I only have 7 1/2 inches left on each side of the screen before hitting the side walls, so at the present screen height it might be a close call considering the frames and all.
post #334 of 1358
Quote:
Originally Posted by Murilomms View Post

And for video material, the frame creation turned on to 120hz produced a good result, that I liked.

But I did not like the frame creation for movies, because it produces an artificial speed on many scenes.

The 120Hz "AMP" feature of Samsung's LCD TVs is similar, and I think I have read that Sony's implementation does the same - it's just what results from adding the extra frames. I think your brain is conditioned to look for only 24 frames per sec for film material, and the added frames trick your brain into thinking everything is moving faster, even though it isn't, based purely on the extra frames. Some people like the effect, and for animation-based film I think it looks interesting, but I normally leave that feature off.

As long as I can turn it off, all I really want is 24fps material displayed with 5:5 (or 4:4 or whatever) pulldown.

IMHO,

shinksma
post #335 of 1358
Quote:
Originally Posted by shinksma View Post

The 120Hz "AMP" feature of Samsung's LCD TVs is similar, and I think I have read that Sony's implementation does the same - it's just what results from adding the extra frames. I think your brain is conditioned to look for only 24 frames per sec for film material, and the added frames trick your brain into thinking everything is moving faster, even though it isn't, based purely on the extra frames.


Not true, it definitely looks faster, it's not tricking your brain. It's just poor implementation of frame interpolation. Toshiba 120Hz sets makes movement smoother, but not so much as to ruin 24fps material. Toshiba hit the bullseye, Samsung and Sony are too strong, even on their lowest setting.
post #336 of 1358
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel Hutnicki View Post

Looks like I will be getting a demo of the AE-3000 at the end of the month. If you have any questions for the designerss at Panasonic, let me know

1> What is the expected latency of this projector in "gaming mode" compared to the previous models/competition?
2> What image quality trade offs do we incur by enabling the low-latency gaming mode?

Oddly enough, I'm looking at this PJ for 50% gaming....
post #337 of 1358
Quote:
Originally Posted by TruckChase! View Post

1> What is the expected latency of this projector in "gaming mode" compared to the previous models/competition?
2> What image quality trade offs do we incur by enabling the low-latency gaming mode?

Oddly enough, I'm looking at this PJ for 50% gaming....

Ask if they improved the filter over the AE2000. The AE2000 has a dust blob problem, and I fear the same for the 3000 if they haven't redesigned or made improvements.
post #338 of 1358
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel Hutnicki View Post

Looks like I will be getting a demo of the AE-3000 at the end of the month. If you have any questions for the designerss at Panasonic, let me know

Daniel, could you do something like this, testing the difference in image lag between game mode and other modes? I'd like to see how much, if any, of noticeable difference in image lag game mode makes.
post #339 of 1358
I would like to know if the zoom presets for 2.35 will account for lens shift, if you're able to test that of course.
post #340 of 1358
Quote:
Originally Posted by mn_hokie View Post

I would like to know if the zoom presets for 2.35 will account for lens shift, if you're able to test that of course.

Agreed. Horizontal lens shift...if you can test that.

(In my case, I don't mind a non-centered (horizontally) 16x9 image, but I'd like to hear how much horizontal shift will affect lens memory.)
post #341 of 1358
Yes, please ask what (if anything) has been done to help the dust problem in the light path.
post #342 of 1358
Thread Starter 
The lens shift is still manual. i.e. the 2.35 feature doesn't remember lens shift position.
What it does remember is image 'position'. i.e. within the 16:9 area being projected, you can move the 2.35:1 image around digitally. This is remembered.

I tried to think about whether this would make it totally useless in an install which has a horizontally off-centre pj and to be honest all I could think is 'yes' because as you zoom out, the image will move to the side and I can't think of a way to get it back without using lens shift.

But it will be interesting when people start getting hands-on with it.
post #343 of 1358
Quote:
Originally Posted by tryingtimes View Post

The lens shift is still manual. i.e. the 2.35 feature doesn't remember lens shift position.
What it does remember is image 'position'. i.e. within the 16:9 area being projected, you can move the 2.35:1 image around digitally. This is remembered.

Agreed. I think it's pretty clear that this is how it works.
Quote:


I tried to think about whether this would make it totally useless in an install which has a horizontally off-centre pj and to be honest all I could think is 'yes' because as you zoom out, the image will move to the side and I can't think of a way to get it back without using lens shift.

If you have a small amount of horizontal lens shift then you could make sure it's lined up properly to fill the 2.35:1 screen, and when you zoom down for 16:9 the entire image would probably still be on the screen, just not centered. But too much horizontal lens shift and you'd start losing the edge of the picture.

My current setup has a lot of horizontal shift, and it has several other drawbacks such as exaggerating chromatic abberation and reducing image uniformity, so I will mount my next PJ centrally. If at all possible I think people should try and mount in the centre.
post #344 of 1358
Am I missing something or is there NOT a 12V trigger output on this projector? If not how do you trigger your screen ??? I currently have a Optoma H79 and it has 2 triggers and I use both (one for a light to go out and the other for screen up/down)

Steve
post #345 of 1358
is anyone taking preorders or a in store date?
post #346 of 1358
Agreed, what does "october" mean in this case...
post #347 of 1358
Projectorcentral's website is stating they should have one in for review in 2 weeks.
post #348 of 1358
Quote:
Originally Posted by kriktsemaj99 View Post

Agreed. I think it's pretty clear that this is how it works.

If you have a small amount of horizontal lens shift then you could make sure it's lined up properly to fill the 2.35:1 screen, and when you zoom down for 16:9 the entire image would probably still be on the screen, just not centered. But too much horizontal lens shift and you'd start losing the edge of the picture.

My current setup has a lot of horizontal shift, and it has several other drawbacks such as exaggerating chromatic abberation and reducing image uniformity, so I will mount my next PJ centrally. If at all possible I think people should try and mount in the centre.

I'm hoping this assumption is wrong. If not, this big time feature is completely useless for any install that's not dead center. Seems like motorized lens shift would have been a no-brainer here.
post #349 of 1358
As they will be doing the demo, I highly doubt we will be able to test out the image lag between game mode and other modes. Once i get a demo at home however, i should be able to test this
post #350 of 1358
Quote:
Originally Posted by mn_hokie View Post

I'm hoping this assumption is wrong. If not, this big time feature is completely useless for any install that's not dead center. Seems like motorized lens shift would have been a no-brainer here.

A simple test with my current Sanyo at even maximum (50%, more than the Panasonic's 40%) horizontal shift suggests that if the 2.35:1 image fits on a 2.35:1 screen, the 16x9 image will still fit on the screen, just not centered. Unless a lens had more than 50% horizontal shift (none on the market I know of), no change in zoom out should cause the image to leave the edges of the larger screen.

Also, my setup is anything but dead center, and I'm still figuring out whether or not the centered lens of the Panasonic will make the 40% horizontal shift an issue with my new screen, but the lens memory won't be an issue for me, as I don't mind if the 16x9 image is exactly center or not as long as it's got the black bars on top and bottom correct and sits inside my screen.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel Hutnicki View Post

As they will be doing the demo, I highly doubt we will be able to test out the image lag between game mode and other modes. Once i get a demo at home however, i should be able to test this

Thank you very much. I'm looking forward to this.
post #351 of 1358
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mn_hokie View Post

I'm hoping this assumption is wrong. If not, this big time feature is completely useless for any install that's not dead center. Seems like motorized lens shift would have been a no-brainer here.

This isn't an assumption - it's been confirmed by a number of sources.
As mentioned above, it would mean having an off-centre 16:9 image. I didn't know how much, but now peteer01 has helped me understand that a small amount of shift might not make a huge difference (obviously any masking would have to cope with this off-centredness).

I guess I'm as short-sighted as the manufacturers in that I always assumed that 90% of owners would be able to ceiling-mount in the horiz centre of the screen. I come from a CRT background where this is absolutely critical to getting a good image. Not many DLPs allow it either, but I guess that means there will be some whose only option was a flexible LCD/LCOS/DILA like the AE3000.
post #352 of 1358
Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas steve View Post

Am I missing something or is there NOT a 12V trigger output on this projector? If not how do you trigger your screen ??? I currently have a Optoma H79 and it has 2 triggers and I use both (one for a light to go out and the other for screen up/down)

Steve

Bump!! Any input? Didnt the 2000 have 12 triggers?
post #353 of 1358
Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas steve View Post

Bump!! Any input? Didnt the 2000 have 12 triggers?

My European version hasn't, though I can't speak for the US version (if there is any difference?).
post #354 of 1358
So how do you manage having your screen come down? Here in the US we use the 12V trigger to do this.
post #355 of 1358
Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas steve View Post

So how do you manage having your screen come down? Here in the US we use the 12V trigger to do this.

I believe the Panasonic's now have a serial port which can hook into a control system to operate the screen. Panasonic pulled the 12V triggers a few generations ago because they had too many problems with them IIRC.
post #356 of 1358
It sucks not to have the 12volt trigger and I shouldn know as my old JVC G-11 didnt have it. I do find that many receivers and preamps do have a trigger you can use. If I am not mistaken, Dwin projectors used to have 2 triggers on their projectors.
post #357 of 1358
Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas steve View Post

So how do you manage having your screen come down? Here in the US we use the 12V trigger to do this.

I press a button on my Harmony remote as my screen has an IR sensor. If I really wanted to use a 12v trigger, then my Denon 2808 has two that I could setup. My lights are controlled by an RF switch/dimmer remote too for that real cinema slow dimming.
post #358 of 1358
Quote:
Originally Posted by kriktsemaj99 View Post

Agreed. I think it's pretty clear that this is how it works.

If you have a small amount of horizontal lens shift then you could make sure it's lined up properly to fill the 2.35:1 screen, and when you zoom down for 16:9 the entire image would probably still be on the screen, just not centered. But too much horizontal lens shift and you'd start losing the edge of the picture.

My current setup has a lot of horizontal shift, and it has several other drawbacks such as exaggerating chromatic abberation and reducing image uniformity, so I will mount my next PJ centrally. If at all possible I think people should try and mount in the centre.

My current PJ location is off center from my screen. So the verdict is that I would need to manually adjust the horiz. shift every time I switched aspect ratios?
So much for the one touch pre-set adjustment that this thing is touting.
post #359 of 1358
Based on what people are saying, that's how it sounds like it's going to work. One thing I never thought of was that it would just be the horizontal and not the vertical. If it's consistant, having masking to offset the shift wouldn't be much of a problem I guess.

I actually just picked up a 1st gen CAVX lens for next to nothing, so I'm curious how differerent the zoom will be versus using the lens. If it's close, I'm thinking I can adjust the lens shift, put the lens in place, and just leave it.

I do agree that it's pretty dumb to tout this as an added feauture, only to have the "not valid when using lens shift" disclaimer.
post #360 of 1358
Hey, guys, just thought I'd inject one point into this whole "Does SmoothScreen make the PT-AE3000 less sharp?" discussion.

Sharpness is not the same thing as detail. If the SmoothScreen gets rid of, or reduces, the grid structure, that ought to make the picture look "softer". However, that shouldn't affect detail.

I don't see that as a bad thing. Another projector with a more noticeable grid might look "sharper", but to what end? It's artificial - there's no improvement in detail gained from it. Heck, real life is both softer (due to complete absence of grid) and more detailed (due to practically infinite resolution) than any projector. And isn't it the appearance of real life that we're trying to approximate as best we can?
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