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The "official" The Onkyo TX-SR706 Owners Thread - Page 81

post #2401 of 2810
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluesky636 View Post

I never accept the first answer I receive if I believe it is wrong. You work your way up the chain until you get to someone who knows what they are talking about. However, if going to an Oppo 83 solved your problem, Onkyo tech support may have been right and it was your player.

I would like to disagree, I too have Oppo BDP-83 player and it upscales everything to 1080p, hence A/V Receiver need not upscale.

In my case, previous DVD player was connected using Composite video, hence the contrast issue was there.

I tried connecting Composite and Component video of Oppo 83, the same contrast issue is there for the output from 706. Which means HDMI to HDMI is ok, but any other video input to HDMI is not ok.

RCN
post #2402 of 2810
Quote:
Originally Posted by iMinnesotan View Post

I contacted Onkyo about this very issue and they told me to contact the maker of my DVD player. That pretty much answered for me what I could expect from their customer support.

Is that mean you are using only HDMI inputs to the receiver?
Are you facing problem with Component inputs or Composite video inputs?
post #2403 of 2810
Quote:
Originally Posted by rajeshkumarcn View Post

I would like to disagree, I too have Oppo BDP-83 player and it upscales everything to 1080p, hence A/V Receiver need not upscale.

The Oppo has excellent de-interlacing and scaling technology (Anchor Bay) -- you're golden.

In my case, previous DVD player was connected using Composite video, hence the contrast issue was there.

Why composite?

I tried connecting Composite and Component video of Oppo 83, the same contrast issue is there for the output from 706. Which means HDMI to HDMI is ok, but any other video input to HDMI is not ok.

You are neutering the Oppo. HDMI is the only acceptable connection to take full advantage of the money spent on this player in my opinion.

RCN

What display device are you using and how is it connected to your 706?

Have you adjusted the video settings on the 706 and/or display?

What are your expectations for a composite connection?

--I tried an S-video connection as an experiment and thought that the up-conversion by the 706 was pretty good.
post #2404 of 2810
Quote:
Originally Posted by rajeshkumarcn View Post

Is that mean you are using only HDMI inputs to the receiver?
Are you facing problem with Component inputs or Composite video inputs?

I had my cheap-o DVD player connected to the receiver with S-video. The receiver output to the TV with HDMI. If I connected the DVD player straight to the TV then it did a terrific job of displaying the picture. The receiver did a horrible job of upconversion no matter how much I fiddled with the image settings.

Of course, replacing the DVD player with the Oppo eliminated the last of the composite connections in my system, except for audio from an Airport Express.
post #2405 of 2810
When I first got my 706 last year, I discovered this website and read the Audyssey Setup Guide several times. Really helpful document.

Following some of your suggestions, I pulled the center speaker forward a bit on the shelf. While not low to ground, the center speakers tweeters are several inches lower than seating ear level position. I lowered the gain on the sub to around 10:00. I set LFE LPP to 120 Hz. I am also experimenting with the Audyssey results (crossover and trim levels), and setting crossovers of front/center/surround to 80Hz.

After making the gain adjustment on the sub and repeating the Audyssey setup, I got the following results (cutoff/trim):

FL: 60/-2.5
Center: 50/-2.0
FR: 60/-2.0
SR: 70/-7.0
SL: 70/-3.5
SUB: NA/-3.5

Should I leave Dynamic EQ on or off? What exactly does it do?

As I said in my original post, while I don't mind a wide dynamic range if that's how a movie is intended to be, I want clear and intelligable dialogue.

-- Rob

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluesky636 View Post

Ok.

First recommendation is to read and understand the Audyssey Setup Guide linked in my signature.

Second recommendation is to rerun Audyssey following the Guide's procedures.

I see two problems with your Audyssey results.

The first problem is that the subwoofer trim level is at the very bottom of the adjustment range. This indicates that the level control on the sub is set too high and the 706 may not be able to turn the trim level down enough to compensate. The overall level of the sub may be too high, causing some of the problems you are experiencing. Set the level control on the sub to between 9 and 11 o'clock. No higher. Make sure the crossover on the sub is either bypassed or set as high as possible. Set the LFE LPF on the 706 to 120 Hz.

The second problem I see is that your crossovers appear too low. When you rerun Audyssey, if you get similar crossover results, set the speaker crossovers in the speaker setup menu to 80 Hz. The sub will do a better job of handing frequencies below 80 Hz than the other speakers will. Just remember: it is Ok to raise a speaker's crossover point, but you never want to lower it.

Let us know how things go after following these recommendations.
post #2406 of 2810
Quote:
Originally Posted by headshrinker2 View Post

When I first got my 706 last year, I discovered this website and read the Audyssey Setup Guide several times. Really helpful document.

Following some of your suggestions, I pulled the center speaker forward a bit on the shelf. While not low to ground, the center speakers tweeters are several inches lower than seating ear level position. I lowered the gain on the sub to around 10:00. I set LFE LPP to 120 Hz. I am also experimenting with the Audyssey results (crossover and trim levels), and setting crossovers of front/center/surround to 80Hz.

After making the gain adjustment on the sub and repeating the Audyssey setup, I got the following results (cutoff/trim):

FL: 60/-2.5
Center: 50/-2.0
FR: 60/-2.0
SR: 70/-7.0
SL: 70/-3.5
SUB: NA/-3.5

Should I leave Dynamic EQ on or off? What exactly does it do?

As I said in my original post, while I don't mind a wide dynamic range if that's how a movie is intended to be, I want clear and intelligable dialogue.

-- Rob

Those numbers look better, except for the SR speaker -- you mentioned that the room did not allow for symmetrical placement.

I would raise the crossover to 80 Hz across the board.

http://www.audyssey.com/technology/dynamiceq.html
post #2407 of 2810
Quote:
Originally Posted by rajeshkumarcn View Post

I would like to disagree, I too have Oppo BDP-83 player and it upscales everything to 1080p, hence A/V Receiver need not upscale.

In my case, previous DVD player was connected using Composite video, hence the contrast issue was there.

I tried connecting Composite and Component video of Oppo 83, the same contrast issue is there for the output from 706. Which means HDMI to HDMI is ok, but any other video input to HDMI is not ok.

RCN

Ok. So complain to Onkyo.
post #2408 of 2810
Quote:
Originally Posted by headshrinker2 View Post

When I first got my 706 last year, I discovered this website and read the Audyssey Setup Guide several times. Really helpful document.

Following some of your suggestions, I pulled the center speaker forward a bit on the shelf. While not low to ground, the center speakers tweeters are several inches lower than seating ear level position. I lowered the gain on the sub to around 10:00. I set LFE LPP to 120 Hz. I am also experimenting with the Audyssey results (crossover and trim levels), and setting crossovers of front/center/surround to 80Hz.

After making the gain adjustment on the sub and repeating the Audyssey setup, I got the following results (cutoff/trim):

FL: 60/-2.5
Center: 50/-2.0
FR: 60/-2.0
SR: 70/-7.0
SL: 70/-3.5
SUB: NA/-3.5

Should I leave Dynamic EQ on or off? What exactly does it do?

As I said in my original post, while I don't mind a wide dynamic range if that's how a movie is intended to be, I want clear and intelligable dialogue.

-- Rob

Those look good. Raise all crossover's to 80 Hz. Dynamic EQ works to correct for the ears decreasing sensitivity to bass and the surround channels as the volume is lowered below reference. I typically listen at -20 to -18 dB. The bass and surround channels at that level would be way out of whack. Dynamic EQ corrects that. Once you are happy with the calibration, try things with and without Dynamic EQ at your normal listening levels.
post #2409 of 2810
Thanks very much for the reply.

I'm curious, why the recommendation to raise crossover to 80Hx across the board (thus overiding the Audyssey suggestions)? My front and surround speakers are not tiny satellites.

-- Rob

Quote:
Originally Posted by WhskyTangoFoxtrt View Post

Those numbers look better, except for the SR speaker -- you mentioned that the room did not allow for symmetrical placement.

I would raise the crossover to 80 Hz across the board.

http://www.audyssey.com/technology/dynamiceq.html
post #2410 of 2810
Quote:
Originally Posted by headshrinker2 View Post

Thanks very much for the reply.

I'm curious, why the recommendation to raise crossover to 80Hx across the board (thus overiding the Audyssey suggestions)? My front and surround speakers are not tiny satellites.

-- Rob

Audyssey doesn't "recommend" anything. In actual fact, it measures the lower -3 dB point of all the speakers, and reports that information to the AVR. The AVR (Onkyo) then sets the first crossover that is just above the measured -3 dB point. The Audyssey filters have higher resolution in the bass as that is where most of the room problems occur. Setting the crossovers to 80 Hz uses the Audyssey filters to their best advantage. Read "Small vs Large" here:

http://www.audyssey.com/blog/
post #2411 of 2810
Quote:
Originally Posted by headshrinker2 View Post

Thanks very much for the reply.

I'm curious, why the recommendation to raise crossover to 80Hx across the board (thus overiding the Audyssey suggestions)? My front and surround speakers are not tiny satellites.

-- Rob

Totem Dreamcatcher
Frequency Response: 57 Hz - 25 kHz ± 3 dB (in room)

The crossover slope has a rolloff that begins before/after your selected 60 Hz setting. Using speakers with a frequency response of 57, you are probably experiencing a gap in the handoff between your speakers and sub, maybe even 12 dB. Your sub is designed specifically for handling LF and will do a much better job at it.
post #2412 of 2810
I greatly appreciate all the suggestions and explanations. I have begun experimenting with all of them. Unforunately, I came down with a quick bout of the stomache flu this week that slowed down my playing!

Should I wish for louder/clearer dialogue (relative to the overall balance of music and sound effects) after implementing all your ideas, what else would you suggest? Would it make sense to bump up the center channel?

Regards,

-- Rob


Quote:
Originally Posted by WhskyTangoFoxtrt View Post

Totem Dreamcatcher
Frequency Response: 57 Hz - 25 kHz ± 3 dB (in room)

The crossover slope has a rolloff that begins before/after your selected 60 Hz setting. Using speakers with a frequency response of 57, you are probably experiencing a gap in the handoff between your speakers and sub, maybe even 12 dB. Your sub is designed specifically for handling LF and will do a much better job at it.
post #2413 of 2810
Quote:
Originally Posted by headshrinker2 View Post

Would it make sense to bump up the center channel?

Regards,

-- Rob

Unfortunately, that's about the only thing you have left with a 706. I wouldn't bump the center up more than 3 dB, though.
post #2414 of 2810
Quote:
Originally Posted by WhskyTangoFoxtrt View Post

What display device are you using and how is it connected to your 706?

Sony LCD W400 series - supports Full HD (1080p) - HDMI


Have you adjusted the video settings on the 706 and/or display?
yes, but if I increase brightness overall brightness increases and black becomes grey. I tried many other settings on receiver and display but in vain

What are your expectations for a composite connection?
When I set HDMI out as through, output should give input as it is. Presently if I take output from Composite Video Out port, I am getting input as it is. It is same as if I connect DVD player to TV via composite. But when I connect via Receiver and take output from HDMI, the display becomes dark. I compared the composite out from receiver and HDMI out by changing the input source selection of TV, I could really make out the difference.

--I tried an S-video connection as an experiment and thought that the up-conversion by the 706 was pretty good.
You may find the issue only in dark scenes e.g some scenes in Da Vinci Code, Angels and Demons, Dark Knight etc. To compare, take S-Video out from receiver and connect to TV. You may pause the DVD Player in a dark scene, and change input selection on TV to S-Video and compare it with HDMI signal coming from Receiver.

I used Composite and Component for testing purpose only. Normally I use HDMI out from Oppo

RCN
post #2415 of 2810
Quote:
Originally Posted by rajeshkumarcn View Post

I used Composite and Component for testing purpose only. Normally I use HDMI out from Oppo

RCN

Sounds like HDMI is the way to go then.
post #2416 of 2810
My 706 doesn't seem to recognise my Mac Mini. When I plug the Mac directly into my panel (Sharp lc42d62u), I get a picture, and am able to use the computer. I wanted to run the Mac through my 706, but the 706 says "no signal" when connected via HDMI to DVI cable.

I was trying to avoid having to change the inputs on the panel everytime I wanted to use the Mac.

My Mac is connected with DVI on its end, to HDMI into the back of the 706, then HDMI out to the display panel. When connected in this fashion, I get no picture at all. Receiver displays "no signal".

Could it be a problem with the "flavour" of the DVI output on the Mac? I'm not very familiar with DVI, but have read some are strictly analog, some digital, some both?

As I said, when connected directly to the panel, the Mac works fine. I'm not sure if the signal being sent through the Mac is digital or analog.
post #2417 of 2810
Quote:
Originally Posted by devo235 View Post

My 706 doesn't seem to recognise my Mac Mini. When I plug the Mac directly into my panel (Sharp lc42d62u), I get a picture, and am able to use the computer. I wanted to run the Mac through my 706, but the 706 says "no signal" when connected via HDMI to DVI cable.

I was trying to avoid having to change the inputs on the panel everytime I wanted to use the Mac.

My Mac is connected with DVI on its end, to HDMI into the back of the 706, then HDMI out to the display panel. When connected in this fashion, I get no picture at all. Receiver displays "no signal".

Could it be a problem with the "flavour" of the DVI output on the Mac? I'm not very familiar with DVI, but have read some are strictly analog, some digital, some both?

As I said, when connected directly to the panel, the Mac works fine. I'm not sure if the signal being sent through the Mac is digital or analog.

HDMI/DVI is digital only.

Sounds like the handshake between the Mac and 706 is not executing properly. How do you have HDMI configured on the 706 (page 92 of the 706 owner's manual)?
post #2418 of 2810
I have it set to through because I want an untouched signal with the rest of my gear.

Perhaps I shopuld try another setting, like auto or 1080p?

Question; if I change the setting for that input, will it change across the board? Will I have to constantly change back and forth from through to auto or whichever, when I switch inputs?

The mac will output at at 1920x1080, aswell as a bunch of other resolutions.
post #2419 of 2810
Quote:
Originally Posted by devo235 View Post

My 706 doesn't seem to recognise my Mac Mini. HDMI to DVI cable.

This type of connection is sometimes a gamble because of HDCP.

My Mac is connected with DVI on its end, to HDMI into the back of the 706, then HDMI out to the display panel.

What do you intend to do with this connection?

"The HDMI video stream is compatible with DVI (Digital Visual Interface), so TVs and displays with a DVI input can be connected by using an HDMI-to-DVI adapter cable. (Note that DVI connections only carry video, so you'll need to make a separate connection for audio.) However, reliable operation with such an adapter is not guaranteed. In addition, video signals from a PC are not supported."

Try the HTPC(Mac) forum, maybe they can help you out.
post #2420 of 2810
What do you intend to do with this connection?

Not sure what you mean exactly, I'd like to have my Mac connected to my home theatre setup mostly for music purposes and watching streaming online video.

"The HDMI video stream is compatible with DVI (Digital Visual Interface), so TVs and displays with a DVI input can be connected by using an HDMI-to-DVI adapter cable. (Note that DVI connections only carry video, so you’ll need to make a separate connection for audio.) However, reliable operation with such an adapter is not guaranteed. In addition, video signals from a PC are not supported."

Is that a quote from the 706 owners manual? I haven't come across that quote in the manual. Well, if that's what the manual says, perhaps i'm SOL.

Are video signals from any PC not supported? That dosen't make sense to me, as don't alot of people have HTPC connected to their 706s? Am I wrong? Is it because it's an RGB signal? What about if its native format is 1920x1080?
post #2421 of 2810
Quote:
Originally Posted by devo235 View Post

Not sure what you mean exactly, ...mostly for music purposes and watching streaming online video.

That's what I was asking. Does the DVI connection on your Mac output audio data?

Is that a quote from the 706 owners manual? I haven't come across that quote in the manual. Well, if that's what the manual says, perhaps i'm SOL.

Pg. 34

Are video signals from any PC not supported? That dosen't make sense to me, as don't alot of people have HTPC connected to their 706s? Am I wrong? Is it because it's an RGB signal? What about if its native format is 1920x1080?

Sorry, don't have the answers to those last questions. I would recommend heading over to the HTPC forum -- very knowledgeable posters there.

Good luck.
post #2422 of 2810
The DVI outputs only video, and I will use another connection to get audio to the reciever. I've posted in the HTPC section, and am awaiting replies.

Thanks for the advice, i'll keep trying.
post #2423 of 2810
Just got a 706 and was trying to use the auto setup for the speakers. Power on and hit setup. I didn't get a setup menu on the tv. Have since tried setting up the CBL/SAT input to the hdmi 1 input and connected the cable box to that input. No video. The cable thats connected to the tv has been in use for 2 yrs. connecting the cable box to the tv. Tried a new cable from hdmi out to another tv. No video. Moved that cable to the cable box. WORKS OK. Am I doing anything wrong or is it a bad receiver. Its a new receiver that was a display model and never connected up.
post #2424 of 2810
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chucksnet View Post

Just got a 706 and was trying to use the auto setup for the speakers. Power on and hit setup. I didn't get a setup menu on the tv. Have since tried setting up the CBL/SAT input to the hdmi 1 input and connected the cable box to that input. No video. The cable thats connected to the tv has been in use for 2 yrs. connecting the cable box to the tv. Tried a new cable from hdmi out to another tv. No video. Moved that cable to the cable box. WORKS OK. Am I doing anything wrong or is it a bad receiver. Its a new receiver that was a display model and never connected up.

You connected HDMI out to the TV? Did you change the HDMI input setting on the TV or are you reusing the one previously connected to the cable box? Make sure to press the Receiver button on the remote before the pressing the Setup button.

I think that the onscreen setup should be displayed any time you enter setup, regardless of how things are currently configured.
post #2425 of 2810
Hey guys, I see that the 706 has an input for a "IR IN" that the manual describes as being for an "IR Receiver".

I would like to be able to run a short cable (maybe 4 ft) cable from this to a more visable area so I don't have to point my remote right at the 706.

My question is, can I just purchase some sort of IR cable for this or do I actually need an "IR Receiver"?
post #2426 of 2810
Quote:
Originally Posted by Merlin803 View Post

Hey guys, I see that the 706 has an input for a "IR IN" that the manual describes as being for an "IR Receiver".

I would like to be able to run a short cable (maybe 4 ft) cable from this to a more visable area so I don't have to point my remote right at the 706.

My question is, can I just purchase some sort of IR cable for this or do I actually need an "IR Receiver"?

This might help.
post #2427 of 2810
Quote:
Originally Posted by WhskyTangoFoxtrt View Post

This might help.

Yep, that answers the question, thanks!
post #2428 of 2810
Quote:
Originally Posted by devo235 View Post

The DVI outputs only video, and I will use another connection to get audio to the reciever. I've posted in the HTPC section, and am awaiting replies.

Thanks for the advice, i'll keep trying.

I have a Mac Mini connected as HTPC to an SR-706, using a DVI to HDMI cable for video and a mini-toslink to toslink optical connection for audio. This setup works great, but there are a few things to keep in mind:

The Onkyo SR-706 does not support any custom resolutions. So 1360x768 for example won't work. You have to stick to standard 720p and 1080i/1080p resolutions or the Onkyo will not acccept the signal. This shouldn't be an issue, as it's the Onkyo's EDID info that is read by your Mac, not your TV's.

Also, you will want a solution to keep the mini from thinking it no longer is connected to a monitor when you switch between sources. Otherwise when you switch back to the mini there will be no signal. There are hardware solutions such as the DVI detective (If I remember correctly), but there's a little script you can run in the background that does the exact same thing. You can download it for free at http://www.1000klub.com/

Hope this helps.

B.
post #2429 of 2810
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bacci View Post

...there's a little script you can run in the background that does the exact same thing. You can download it for free at http://www.1000klub.com/
...

That sounds like just what I've been needing, too. I downloaded the zip file but am clueless about how to install or where it lives. Can you provide just a little more direction? Thanks.
post #2430 of 2810
Quote:
Originally Posted by btokars View Post

That sounds like just what I've been needing, too. I downloaded the zip file but am clueless about how to install or where it lives. Can you provide just a little more direction? Thanks.

Put the file com.1000klub.hdmireviver into your ~/Library/LaunchAgents and put the HDMIReviver app into /Applications. That'll cause it to automatically run whenever you login.

Cheers
B
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