"Official" Onkyo TX-SR806 Reciever thread - Page 60

Since it's apparently too hard for anyone to post the resolution to this problem I'll do it...According to the repair facility I dealt with, the system control pcb was fried and they suspect other components are damaged. They gave me the "Not worth repairing" verdict.

Argh now Ive started to have issues with this receiver. I've had it for 3yrs and for the past few months it takes a while to sync the signal from my ps3 to tv. I didn't mind that at all but now im getting this odd popping sound. I turn on the receiver and this random pop happens for every speaker, sometimes it turns off but usually if the popping sound happens i turn it off and leave it on while not playing anything and it goes to normal. Today it scarred the hell out of me because i didnt hear the popping so pressed play on a video all of a sudden a loud pop and felt the air hit me from all speakers. Not sure whats causing this. Checked all the wiring and its fine. Could this be a sign that my receiver is giving out? Im looking at buying a Yamaha instead onkyo has really let me down.

Why does my 806 put a horizontal green line about two pixels deep across the top of the TV when HDMI passthrough is enabled. In scaling modes, the line is absent - it's only there when using 'through'.

Does any one had a 806 blow a transistor ? A c5242 in the middle of the amp is fried.
On what may be related - the zone 2 speaker binding post at the far right of the amp when facing it has been - well "very violently removed" Possibly via sliding and bashing it into something.
The rest of it, spotless.
Does anyone have a schematic for it ?
Thanks.
Srinath.

I have the schematics. PM me. While you at it replace the caps on the HDMI board

Its the 100uf caps on the hdmi board as far as the sync goes. They can easily be replaced if you can solder and are careful

You heard the joke about the gynacologist that went to mechanic school and rebuilt the motor going via the tail pipe.
That is me and a soldering iron, or doing anything super tricky and delicate ...
Anyway, this guy has a transistor blown out, I will check if anything else is blowed up in that circuit, then remove the bugger and se if the amp will work.
I suspect it was shorted out @ the speaker terminal - it may have been rammed into something while it was running.

And I found the schematic on line. I will check what else is bad and see what it looks like.

BTW this amp is nothing like the tx sr 805. That is a bigger and more complex amp.

Cool.
Srinath.

I pulled the burnt transistor and that didn't help with the amp turning on.
Oddly though, touching the cd or tuner buttons get the amp to come out of protect and 2 sec later go back into ptotect.
I suspect the 2sc2240 at location Q6072 also bad, but I cant find that on the board just yet. Well time to fess up. I didn't take that amp apart yet. I snipped the legs of the burnt transistor.
Could anyone tell me where that transistor is ? is it close to the output posts ? That part I cant see cos its under 3 layers of pcb's.

Also the binding posts for Zone 2R are smashed and seem to have been removed. That circuit is what I suspect the Q6072 is on.

Cool.
Srinath.

Maybe not, I think it is in the center channel.
I'll find em and get em out and see what happens. Hope its isolated to the center and I can fix it and get it working.

Cool.
Srinath.

Off the wall question about this receiver maybe someone knows the answer to...

I'm using component video (R, G,B) exclusively in my system (older TV). Up until now, all of my devices have gone direct to the TV and the TX-SR806 has been used exclusively for audio.

I've just added one more video device than number of inputs on my TV. I'll need a way to split or switch one of the component video inputs to allow for this to work.

But I'd prefer to do this passively (unpowered) rather than through an active (powered) device. I know that the Onkyo has component inputs and outputs that will allow this to happen, but will this receiver also allow the video inputs to "pass through" when the power is off? I'd rather not have to power up my receiver when my kids are just watching TV or playing the XBOX.

Thanks!

(I know I can just try it, but I figured I'd ask first)

No power equals no picture and no sound.

Just confirmed this is the case. Thanks.

In standby unplugged or both?

I tested standby.

So if I had the HDMI board replaced from Onkyo and the problem did not go away... do these boards go bad that fast? Or may there be something esle wrong? I have the HDMI issue everyone in the world does.

I want to know why there was never a recall when this is an obvious manufacturing error.

I've been working this over in the OPPO forum, but thought I'd try here.

I have an 806, which is about 5 or so years old. I get an audio sync delay when playing anything from the OPPO with HDMI. The OPPO is HDMI v4.1a, and is supposed to be compatible with 1.3, but I just cannot get through this problem.

I have also tried playing with the 1080p24 and 60 setting (my display is a Samsung LN series), changing the settings for the AVR video between 3:2, 2:2, and auto pull-downs, and also trying multiple HDMI ports on the AVR, OPPO, and TV. I have also done a factory reset of the OPPO, and confirmed current firmware again. The lip sync problem still persists.

So do I need to upgrade? I'd adjust the audio sync to say, 75ms, but that would throw off my other devices...

BTW, my 806 is rock solid. I've owned it for 4 years, no problems at all. However, I did buy it refurbished from Shop Onkyo, so they may have taken the time to fix everything before reselling.

EDIT: OPPO BDP-103

To update: I decided to just adjust the sync for the source of the OPPO. I have it dialed in to 165ms. Seems to be the magic number, at least for my setup. I'll roll with it.

ONKYO receiver TX-SR-806 HDMI handshake DIY fix (with photos)

*updated photos May 3 2013 (at bottom of this post)
not long after I made this post, a forum member contacted me to point out that 3 capacitors had wrong polarities. Immediately I fixed it and updated my photos.

A while ago I started to see green lines after I turned on my receiver and switch input for my TIVO (all done using an Activity on my Harmony One). Then I started to search the internet and I found this thread. I looked at the video on YouTube (great visual aid by the way). I recommend you watch the video 2-3 times before attempting this fix. I decided to purchase the capacitors and proceed with the repair. My receiver was originaly purchased in Feb2009.
Basically the repair involves replacing the defective capacitors that are on the HDMI board. You will have to replace (13) capacitors, 5 on the top side and 8 on the bottom side. Original capacitors are Philips 100uf/4V. You can use higher voltage, like 25v, they will be a bit bigger. I found mine on eBay (25 surface mount capacitors for $6 shipped). I recommend you buy more than 13, in case you break one or two.

*for better viewing of my photos, please download them to your computer then you can zoom in.

What you need:

1. soldering iron
2. solder (I use Kester 60/40)
3. desoldering pump
4. philips head screwdriver
5. long nose pliers
6. tweezers
7. flat head screwdriver
8. 13x100uf/25V capacitors
9. Black Sharpie

Unmount HDMI board:

1. Unplug your receiver and place it on a flat surface, make sure you have good lighting, I used a desk lamp.
2. Remove the (3) screws located on the back of the receiver and the (3) screws located on each sides of the receiver, then remove the cover
3. Locate the HDMI board, it's the circuit board that sits behind the HDMI connectors on the back.
4. To remove the HDMI board follow these steps Now the HDMI board should be detached from your receiver.

Place the HDMI board on a clean surface (I use a placemat)

Turn on your soldering iron, make sure it's ready when you need it.

Replace faulty capacitors:

1. locate the 13 capacitors (use my photo) 5 are on the top side, and 8 are on the bottom side of the HDMI board. They are identified by 100/4V.
2. Using a Sharpie I put a dot on top of the faulty capacitors, this makes them easier to locate thereafter.
3. The black semi-circle on the capacitor indicates the negative (-) side
4. Using a Sharpie, place a dot on the circuit board near the - side, this will be easier to remember the correct polarity when you install your new capacitor
5. To remove the faulty capacitor, using the long nose pliers, pull gently and move back and forth until the capacitor detaches from the board
6. Then you're ready to solder your new capacitor
7. Prepare your new capacitor, remove the black plastic platform, then fold the lead (like the video suggests)
8. Using your soldering iron and your solder, melt solder into a little bead on each sides where the leads of the faulty capacitor were located.
9. Using tweezers hold the new capacitor with one hand, with the other hand hold the soldering iron, melt the little bead of solder as you place the new capacitor in place.
Repeat for the other lead. Once it's soldered correctly, I like to try to move it with one finger just to make sure it's solid and secured.
10. Repeat this procedure for the rest of the capacitors. Be patient, take your time.

Once all (13) capacitors have been soldered re-examine both sides of your board, make sure the new capacitors are well sit, polarities have been respected etc.

Reinstall your HDMI board and screw the cover back.

Enjoy your receiver and be proud of yourself.

















Edited by reggiefl - 5/3/13 at 9:34am

Excellent post Reggiefl. Thanks a lot for doing this!

Does anyone know if the 806 can passthrough video and audio over HDMI without turning on the receiver?
If so, how can I do that? Thanks.

Yes you can but the receiver must be plugged in and in standby.

Thanks gferrell, How do you go about doing so?
Edited by Jazzlover - 3/15/13 at 10:55am

Thank you all for testing this fix.

although I do not like 'breaking' components off the board as some other have. I feel it risks solder pad lifting
I use my soldering iron and smallest precision flathead screwdriver to life one corner of the cap. I then pin the screwdriver under the cap.
I then use a heat gun to melt the solder on the board and the weight of the screwdriver lifts the cap.

I would also recommend if you have no soldering experiance to NOT try this. Others say it is 'easy' but removing surface mount caps is not easy imo.
Lift a pad and your really screwed.

thanks again contributors!

Here is a much much better video on doing this repair from a professional.
He likes ripping the caps off as well but different method.
Covers troubleshooting as well

Hey guys,

I'm in the process of upgrading from my 806 and now have a custom faceplate from Middle Atlantic that I need to replace to match my new receiver. If anyone is interested, feel free to shoot me a PM and we'll go from there.

Just wanted to chime in to let all of you know I fixed my TX-SR806 this morning, using the info in this thread.

I used my ESR meter to locate 2 100uf 4v capacitors on the bottom of the HDMI board that had elevated ESR. Replacing the 2 caps made all my crackling popping noises on startup go away.

I cannot bitstream from my HTPC to save my life.

For the love of God, someone has to know how to do this. I am using an HDMI Detector. I programmed it with the EDID of my TV.

I then installed it as follows: HTPC --> Detective --> Onkyo --> tv. When I do this, I get "no signal" on my TV. On the Onkyo, Monitor Out is set to HDMI. Resolution is set to Through. Audio TV Out is off.

Can anyone post detailed steps for exactly what they did to get their HTPC, HDMI detective, receiver (preferably Onkyo) and tv working together? I have posted in the HTPC forum to no avail.

It really pisses me off that my Onkyo has so many issues with HDMI and HDCP.

I really don't want to do it, but if needed, can someone recommend a similar receiver that actually handles HDMI properly?????????????

PLEASE HELP. I have wasted hours of my life trying to fix this.

What video card are you using? When you're talking about bitstreaming, you're referring to DTS-HD MA and TrueHD?

I am using an ATI Radeon HD 5650. It will bitstream, and yes, I am referring to DTS HD, etc.