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Legacy Whisper Dunlavy SC V opinions - Page 20

post #571 of 595
Quote:
Originally Posted by Champ04 View Post


YES! THIS is precisely my point. And you are correct, it is the drivers that are the limiting factor. To be more precise, it's mostly the tweeter.

And herein is the one flaw in Dunlavy's methods. Note: I did NOT say designs.

John was well known as being a very nice gentleman, but he was also stubborn as all get out.

His reason for using the Vifa D26TG and later the D27TG was PRICE. Yes, it did measure very very well for what he was looking for, but so did several of the Dynaudio tweeters. (And their various offshoots from Morel.) The difference then, was simply price since the D27TG was under $25 and the rest were all approaching or surpassing $100 and even $200.

This, in fact, is a direct quote. "Why pay extra for something that measures the same?"

The downfall was that they DID measure the same in ONLY the ways that John measured them.

Years after building an entire company around the Vifa D27TG/P13WG (tweet/mid) combination, other people found that above a certain sound pressure level the apex of the dome on the Dunlavy tweeter would start breaking up severely. And there is the fundamental reason why you can only go so loud with a Dunlavy. It's also one of the reasons they were known for frying tweeters.

The Vifa P13WG midrange driver has an issue of it's own. It doesn't break up enough to cause an irritating sound. But it does absorb and blur some micro detail.

Anyway, the point is, both of these drivers do measure very well UP TO the SPL that Dunlavy was testing them. Beyond that and things aren't so good.


Back on page 9 of this thread I posted some pictures of the original Dunlavy Audio Labs prototype speakers that I managed to acquire. In them you will see that they use the same P13WG midrange driver. But the tweeter is one of Morel's offshoots of the famed Dynaudio Esotar.

Initially I mentioned that this pair did sound better. Notably clearer and more dynamic. But what I've noticed more since is that they do not have the SPL limitations of the Dunlavy line.


Working from what I've learned from this pair I've been able to successfully replace the crappy Vifa tweeter in a pair of SC-I with a Dynaudio Esotar2 tweeter. The Esotar2 is flat out beyond 40kHz and has incredible power handling abilities, without breaking up. It also has the best measured impulse response that I've ever seen.

The result is a speaker that has outstanding dynamic capabilities. And I'm not being conservative here. I use bombastic full scale orchestra pieces such as Stravinsky's Firebird suite or Right of Spring, Holst's Mars, Mahler's 5th and what not for testing. Anything with huge dynamic contrast or continuous loud and difficult passages. Take your pick, I'm playing them at concert levels and noticing no compression or breakup.

In fact, these modified SC-1, combined with a very good pair of subs, flat out embarrass a pair of Wilson Audio Maxx2 on these same musical pieces.


Anyway, all of that was to stress the point that, as awesome as they are, there are a few limitations of the Dunlavys and it all focuses on driver selection. THIS is why I got really excited about checking out Evolution Acoustics. And not just because they use exotic materials but because they ALSO claim to be able to pass a decent square wave. And if this is the case then you can assume that they are both very flat in the frequency domain and relatively coherent in the time domain. The two primary things that make a Dunlavy so awesome.


P.S. I'm not too up to speed on ceramic drivers. But I do know that some of the more modern carbonfiber sandwich designs have both the rigidity and freedom from ringing that Dunlavy desired so highly in a midrange.....But he would still likely not ever have used them.....because of price.

It was very interesting reading throughout the thread. Tweeter replacement exicted me especially. It was the very first idea came to mind when I got my SC-V's delivered to Russia and installed. Highs certainly needed an improvement. This is not that huge issue now when I replaced my preamp. But I am still open to anything what can improve sound.

Champ,
how exactly did you replace Vifa with Dynaudio tweeters? All Dynaudio's I know 8Ohm while Vifa D27TG-35 is 6Ohm. It does not seem that simple replacement will work. Did you re-work crossover?
post #572 of 595
Hi folks. My first post. I came across this thread though Google and registered to join. I owned a pair of SCIVs (black) back in the mid-90s and later upgraded to (cherry) SC-Vs. I sold the Vs in '06 - perhaps not the smartest move - and just yesterday made arrangements to purchase another pair of SCIVs. This time in oak. I'll have them this weekend. Feels like coming home.

Felix
post #573 of 595
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaffer View Post

Hi folks. My first post. I came across this thread though Google and registered to join. I owned a pair of SCIVs (black) back in the mid-90s and later upgraded to (cherry) SC-Vs. I sold the Vs in '06 - perhaps not the smartest move - and just yesterday made arrangements to purchase another pair of SCIVs. This time in oak. I'll have them this weekend. Feels like coming home.
Felix

But a smart move to get back into the ring again. I'm a IV-A owner in Cherry.

Sounds like me and my vinyl collection when CD came out. Gave it all away.....three years ago I bought it all back and then some. No looking back.
post #574 of 595
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaffer View Post

Hi folks. My first post. I came across this thread though Google and registered to join. I owned a pair of SCIVs (black) back in the mid-90s and later upgraded to (cherry) SC-Vs. I sold the Vs in '06 - perhaps not the smartest move - and just yesterday made arrangements to purchase another pair of SCIVs. This time in oak. I'll have them this weekend. Feels like coming home.
Felix

Sooooooooooo....what's the verdict?
post #575 of 595
Quote:
Champ,
how exactly did you replace Vifa with Dynaudio tweeters? All Dynaudio's I know 8Ohm while Vifa D27TG-35 is 6Ohm. It does not seem that simple replacement will work. Did you re-work crossover?

Still wondering about this too!!
post #576 of 595
Hello-

New member here. I came across the site doing a search about Dunlavy trying to learn more!
I just acquired the SC-4 in cherry and am still in awe over the sound stage. I have been tweaking the placement for the last month, and it just keeps getting better.
I am curious about placement from the rear wall. Have any of you noticed that they seem to want to be further out from the wall than other speaker's?
post #577 of 595
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobtheaudio View Post

Hello-
New member here. I came across the site doing a search about Dunlavy trying to learn more!
I just acquired the SC-4 in cherry and am still in awe over the sound stage. I have been tweaking the placement for the last month, and it just keeps getting better.
I am curious about placement from the rear wall. Have any of you noticed that they seem to want to be further out from the wall than other speaker's?

Mine are about 6' out from the front wall and I sit about 7' away, seeing a fair bit of the inside cabinet edges from my seat. I've found this setup to give an excellent balance of soundstaging and tone. I do use dual subs, so the bottom end is not the issue when I'm setting the SC-IVA's up.

I've actually had them to where there was 18' behind them and it's eeery, but the soundstage becomes more U-Shaped in my room, so I think the setup above is better. I might suggest you get a copy of the Stereophile 2 CD and use the "Mapping the Soundstage" track to aid in setup. It's a great tool here, especially for depth within the soundstage.
Edited by Jive Turkey - 10/13/12 at 7:37am
post #578 of 595
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jive Turkey View Post

I've actually had them to where there was 18' behind them...
I've used my SC-IVs in a number of rooms, but never with that sort of space available. While I'd say that more room is more better, such very large rooms may prove differently.

OTOH, if you have the space & like the sound, what are you obsessing over?
post #579 of 595
Quote:
Originally Posted by HammerSandwich View Post

I've used my SC-IVs in a number of rooms, but never with that sort of space available. While I'd say that more room is more better, such very large rooms may prove differently.
OTOH, if you have the space & like the sound, what are you obsessing over?


I have no idea what obsessing you're referring too. I merely posed that I didn't like the U-shaped soundstage in the setup with 18' behind it.
post #580 of 595
Quote:
Originally Posted by neprince View Post

Champ,
how exactly did you replace Vifa with Dynaudio tweeters? All Dynaudio's I know 8Ohm while Vifa D27TG-35 is 6Ohm. It does not seem that simple replacement will work. Did you re-work crossover?

Sorry Guys, sorta forgot about this thread for awhile.

The answer is somewhat complicated. All commercially available Dynaudio tweeters were 8ohms. But the models that they use in their own speakers in recent years are actually 6ohm. And the Esotar2 tweets that I used were picked from an existing Dynaudio model. So compensating for the impedance on that one was the easiest part, since I really didn't have to.

But the short answer is, Yes, you will have to rework the crossover a little bit in order to use an 8ohm tweeter. And since all Dunlavy crossovers are slightly different it would be impossible to accurately describe here the proper way to go about it.
post #581 of 595
Sorry - I meant the generic "you." IOW, anyone who likes the sound they have should sit back & listen to the music.
post #582 of 595
Just puchased a set of mint SCiva. I need a set of close timbre matched center and ss. Any Ideas would be great. Or a place to buy some smaller dunlavys.
Edited by bighifi - 11/13/12 at 7:21pm
post #583 of 595
Here is one photo of the SC-VI crossover.

http://cgim.audiogon.com/i/vs/i/f/1359906100.jpg

I will have new external crossovers made with better components, mostly Duelund Cast, for the critical components. I will keep the original crossovers intact for comparison.

I also plan on testing new tweeters.

Cheers,

VPN
post #584 of 595
Greetings!

I enjoyed the very helpful and insightful comments from Dunlavy/Duntech owners. Having the SC III and SC IV (wished I had the IVa model) for my 2 channel set ups and the Black Knight as fronts in my HT setup, I have become pretty much a Dunlavy believer, having had a lot of (affordable within my budget) speakers before.

Recently I got my hands on a pair of Sovereign 2001 (early series with no bi-amping) and unfortunately the grills were missing so now I am planning to build a pair by myself. (The speakers are in my main 2 channel setup which is the great room so I really need the grills, otherwise me and those speakers may end up in the dog house).

Can some owners post or send me pictures of the grills, viewed from the back?

As for footers/decouplers, any one else preferred footers/decouplers under their large speakers? Most pictures show the speakers standing on their base. I have found that my SC IV sounded better with a DIY solution that consist of 1/4" slate tiles on both sides, sandwiching Aurios Pro with tungsten balls. The room measures approx 24' x 36' with high single sloping sided vaulted ceiling. Flooring is solid hardwood.

Furthermore, what is your best suggestion for mods, if any, on them?

Lastly, for the lucky ones who heard or owned both the Soverign and the SC V, which one do/did you prefer for classical music?

(Note: this question was posted on the Gon as well)
post #585 of 595
Welcome to the thread.

I just bought a pair of Aletha's, and still own the IV-A's. While they're not better than the IV-A's, I think one of the most audible differences is the different drivers used for the midrange, they image and soundstage like no tomorrow, and will be my next stereo speakers for music should my IV-A's ever crap out. For now, they sit as the R/L surrounds in my seperate Home Theater system.

I like both of mine better just sitting on the carpet on their bases as opposed to on Tip Toes.
post #586 of 595
Quote:
Originally Posted by polyglotbizwiz View Post


Lastly, for the lucky ones who heard or owned both the Soverign and the SC V, which one do/did you prefer for classical music?

Heard them years apart from each other. Never owned the Sovereign but did own the original SC-V. (The one with the dome mids, like the Sovereign.)
But recollection being what it is, I preferred the SC-V with one exception. The significantly cheaper dome mids in the SC-V (Vifa) were no match for the Dynaudio versions in the Sovereign. With certain music, especially anything with significant double bass inclusion, the mids could audibly distort occasionally.

I noticed your posts at Agon and DIY Audio as well.
Good luck with the crossover work. And don't forget to swap out those crappy binding posts on the Sovereign. The plating under the gold is nickle, which is very bad for audio applications. Get some good Cardas, you'll thank me later! haha.

Welcome to the thread!!!
post #587 of 595
Quote:
Originally Posted by polyglotbizwiz View Post

Recently I got my hands on a pair of Sovereign 2001 (early series with no bi-amping) and unfortunately the grills were missing so now I am planning to build a pair by myself. (The speakers are in my main 2 channel setup which is the great room so I really need the grills, otherwise me and those speakers may end up in the dog house).

Can some owners post or send me pictures of the grills, viewed from the back?
I had a pair of those same Sovereign 2001 speakers for almost 20 years! They were the original 376 pound version before Duntech dropped the weight by 100 pounds and made the bases out of plastic. Unfortunately I had to sell mine several years ago when my finances came crumbling down, but I did manage to save some of the pictures I took for my eBay listing.

I'm not sure if you're aware of this, but the frame was a very solidly built box-like structure made out of square welded aluminum. Very rigid considering the large size. Although none of my pictures show them from the back, three of them should give you an idea of their shape. Fortunately the flash on the camera somehow made the grill cloth appear more translucent than it actually was, so you're able to see the outline of the frame pretty clearly. And the grills weren't really held on by anything either; they just kind of "slid/squeezed" over the front black portion of the speakers and just sat on the bases.

I hopes this makes sense and I hope it helps!

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Edited by Shocked One - 4/26/13 at 3:27am
post #588 of 595
Quote:
Originally Posted by polyglotbizwiz View Post

As for footers/decouplers, any one else preferred footers/decouplers under their large speakers? Most pictures show the speakers standing on their base. I have found that my SC IV sounded better with a DIY solution that consist of 1/4" slate tiles on both sides, sandwiching Aurios Pro with tungsten balls. The room measures approx 24' x 36' with high single sloping sided vaulted ceiling. Flooring is solid hardwood.

Furthermore, what is your best suggestion for mods, if any, on them?

Whenever I hear of a listening room with wooden floors the first thing I automatically assume is that it probably needs some serious room treatment to tame the brightness! There's not a modification out there that will have a more immediate impact than a properly (or even partially) treated room. Just adding a throw rug alone can make a huge difference. Some heavy drapes, an oriental rug on the wall, and even some extra throw pillows on the couch can go a long way to improve a room. I personally love Acoustic Science Corporation's sound panels, bass traps and tube traps, but anything is better than nothing.

As for footers and decouplers, I've personally never noticed an "improvement" on any of the heavier, relatively inert, speakers. I tend to believe that's more of an issue when dealing with lighter speakers with less mass, but Dave Wilson (of Wilson Audio) would vehemently disagree! His biggest speakers are much heavier than even the mighty SC-VI and yet his installers always spike them as the final step!



Edited by Shocked One - 4/26/13 at 3:29am
post #589 of 595
Quote:
Originally Posted by polyglotbizwiz View Post

Lastly, for the lucky ones who heard or owned both the Soverign and the SC V, which one do/did you prefer for classical music?

I've owned both pairs; the Sovereign 2001's for just under two decades and the SC-V's for just over a decade. I kept the Sovereigns for about 9 years after I bought the SC-V's, and would still have them both if it hadn't been for my business going under! I've swapped them in and out of many different rooms, and had them hooked up to many different components and systems.

The most obvious difference (at least on paper anyway) was in their bass extension. The Sovereigns were rated to 27 Hz, while the V's went down to 20 Hz, if the room was actually large enough to support such a wavelength!

In actual use however, I never felt deprived in any way with the much older Sovereigns. I've had friends tell me that the Sovereigns sounded "warmer and sexier," but I'm convinced that was more of a psychological thing because the Duntech's were made of a pretty African Rosewood, whereas the Dunlavy's were just a plain looking black oak. Another difference was there was a singe isolated incident on the Duntech's where I accidentally bottomed out the woofers, whereas I've never had that happen to me on the Dunlavy's. That was a very scary moment for me, and ironically it happened while playing an deep organ note in a classical piece. (Hmmm?)

So I guess what I can say, with 100% certainty, is that I honestly can't really decide which ones I prefer for classical music!



Edited by Shocked One - 4/26/13 at 3:22am
post #590 of 595
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shocked One View Post

but Dave Wilson (of Wilson Audio) would vehemently disagree! His biggest speakers are much heavier than even the mighty SC-VI and yet his installers always spike them as the final step!
Wilson Audio quite frequently will mix science with pseudoscience in its approach to audio.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shocked One View Post

The Sovereigns were rated to 27 Hz, while the V's went down to 20 Hz, if the room was actually large enough to support such a wavelength!
Do you think headphones can reach down to 50Hz, 35Hz or even 20Hz or do you believe the wavelength prevents them from doing so?
post #591 of 595
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shocked One View Post

The Sovereigns were rated to 27 Hz, while the V's went down to 20 Hz, if the room was actually large enough to support such a wavelength!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Raul GS View Post

Do you think headphones can reach down to 50Hz, 35Hz or even 20Hz or do you believe the wavelength prevents them from doing so?

Since we're talking about bass in a room using loudspeakers, I won't comment on what happens in an ear canal when you're using headphones.

Assuming your at sea level, and assuming it's a perfect 72 degree day, then the wavelength from a 20 hertz signal is 56.5 feet long! I didn't invent physics; that's just a fact. With that in mind, it would take a room at least 56.5 feet long to support a full 20 Hz wavelength without any interference from the room itself! That's just physics...

Now that doesn't mean that the rest of us mere mortals who can't afford 57 foot rooms can't make do with half wavelength (28' 3") or quarter wavelength (14' 1.5") rooms! (At 5280 feet above sea level, I lucked out with a 32 foot wall in my basement!) It just means that with a larger room, you'll have a better chance of actually generating/reproducing/supporting/hearing/feeling a true 20 Hz signal. Otherwise you're just overloading the room with a bunch of boomy crap. And that's why I love those ASC bass traps I mentioned in my previous posting! They help by killing off those null spots that form in the corners that ruin the bass for the rest of the room!

Here are a few links that explain it better, if anyone is interested:

http://www.gcaudio.com/resources/howtos/roomacoustics.html

http://www.acousticfields.com/wavelengths-in-our-rooms/

http://www.mcsquared.com/wavelength.htm

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Edited by Shocked One - 4/26/13 at 5:26pm
post #592 of 595
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shocked One View Post


Assuming your at sea level, and assuming it's a perfect 72 degree day, then the wavelength from a 20 hertz signal is 56.5 feet long! I didn't invent physics; that's just a fact. With that in mind, it would take a room at least 56.5 feet long to support a full 20 Hz wavelength without any interference from the room itself! That's just physics... biggrin.gif
My apologies, I misunderstood your statement. I have seen some individuals argue that you require a large room in order to reproduce low notes. As you noted, a larger room may make it easier to reproduce a 20 Hz note less interference, but under the right circumstances a small room can do the job.
post #593 of 595
Quote:
Originally Posted by Raul GS View Post

My apologies, I misunderstood your statement. I have seen some individuals argue that you require a large room in order to reproduce low notes. As you noted, a larger room may make it easier to reproduce a 20 Hz note less interference, but under the right circumstances a small room can do the job.

No apologies necessary, but thank you.

As a music-lover who started off back in 1980 as a DJ at a New York City Roller Rink (Disco; Yeah baby!) and then at an actual Nightclub a year later, I got to play with some pretty nice toys in some pretty big rooms! biggrin.gifbiggrin.gifbiggrin.gif

And even though professional equipment is all about the quantity (of the SPL's, and ultimately of the SLAM that pounds in your chest) and not about the quality (anyone who's ever heard a Piezo-Tweeter can attest to how they make your ears bleed), it's pretty amazing what you can do in that kind of environment that you just can't replicate in a home setting. Donna Summers and Michael Jackson (may they both RIP) never sounded so good! Unfortunately, it's those very same experiences that have cursed me with a lifelong, insatiable desire for endless, flawless, ultra-tight bass!

So as I write this, I'm even more hopeful that anyone who reads this actually takes the time to click on those links I posted earlier and learn/revisit/remember how important a room is to achieving good sound and good bass. It truly is the most important and most influential component in any system, yet the most neglected in most!

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post #594 of 595
Agreed, rooms are critical and far too ignored in the press...they are only interested in supporting their advertisers. Regarding Pro equipment, you may want to look into the current stuff made by Danley Sound Labs, Meyer Sound, JBL's high-end speakers and Genelec (among others). When properly setup they compete and exceed the very best that can be purchased in consumer audio (they are not cheap, but considering the prices of Wilson and the like, they are good value).

In electronics, the best DACs in the business come from Pro companies, and even in SSP, the highly regarded Datasat RS20i is based on the AP20 designed for Cinemas.
post #595 of 595
Thanks Benny and Champ04 for your comments, great suggestions and pictures! As for the grills, I will likely build the grills using hard wood in stead of metal frames. As for mods, as owner of some other Dunlavy and Duntech models, replacing the binding post is indeed one of the easier and higher return on the money ones; I have still some Cardas CCGR-L binding post left that I will put in them shortly. Another easy one is to replace the screws holding the drivers with solid brass ones, certainly for the mid and highs. Maybe I will add cautiously some Mundorf Supremes to add as bypass on some of the caps (mids and highs). If my discretionary spending account allows in the future (need to sell off unused gear), I may consider Stillpoint Ultra (which works wonders under my CD player) or even Ultra SS under them, my DIY solution offers in the interim some improvement.

I am very happy with the sound of the "new" puppies and like their classy African rose wood finishing and can't wait to hear them when my CJ LP140 mono blocks come back fully retubed.
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