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Welcome to DamnSam77's CEDAR PEAKS Cinema Construction (Denver, Colorado) - Page 5

post #121 of 276
9/26/08 at 11:48am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by javadoc View Post

I'm with Michael on floating it. Better safe than sorry, especially with the soils in the area. I'm actually going to leave 4-6" of space at the top of my stage wall (instead of trying to float it, and hide the gap with an arched soffit which will be hung from the ceiling.

Well my above-screen soffit is already finished, textured, and painted. What other options do I have if I do not want to float my false screen wall?

Can I just leave a 3" gap, and fill it with some kinda of flexible foam material and maybe cover it with FR701 GOM material?

This sucks, because I really wanted to take my screen all the way up to the against the top 2x4 stud. I willl be using 4" poplar, so I thought 4" will be a good enough border on the top, since their is already a 12" soffit, so the top part pf the screen will be about 16" from the 8" ceiling. I really didnt want to decrease the height of the screen by bringing it down another 3"-4" from the soffit, which will force me to reduce the height of the screen to keep the same distance from the floor to the bottom of the screen.

What if I end up with a floating false wall, do I still need to screw it to the soffit above? or would screwing the false wall to the stage and two side walls be enough?
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post #122 of 276
9/26/08 at 11:58am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Audixium View Post

If you decide to go with hinges and a "flip up" method here are a few links...

Black Banshee is using hinges - see answer #4 from that post.

A few pics of Itai's use of hinges. If you follow the thread a little after that post he explains the setup a little more.


Haha, nice! I had the exact same idea as Black Banshee and I have never been to this construction thread. I feel better that the heavy duty hinge idea has been done before. I will probably be doing my screen closer to Banshee than Itai's. I dont think I am gonna even go the steel route with the frame. Plus I dont want anything behind the screen fabric. So I will try to limit myself to a 10ft wide screen so that I can just use the 4 basic framing pieces without any extra center support. (or atleast I hope)
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post #123 of 276
9/26/08 at 12:03pm
I think 3" is probably good. If you lived in Highlands Ranch, I'd say no, but you know how that area heaves. I'm sure if you cover any gap with GOM, it'll look perfectly fine. It's all slight of hand anyway on the stage wall, you know? I don't see why you couldn't still mount your screen up where you wanted to either. You just don't want those studs of the screen wall pushing on the ceiling joists or expensive stuff could happen.

Hinges, sweet. I was looking for something to hinge my screen. I want to use the void behind mine for media storage, and hinge the screen. I'm stealing that idea!
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post #124 of 276
9/26/08 at 12:11pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by javadoc View Post

I think 3" is probably good. If you lived in Highlands Ranch, I'd say no, but you know how that area heaves. I'm sure if you cover any gap with GOM, it'll look perfectly fine. It's all slight of hand anyway on the stage wall, you know? I don't see why you couldn't still mount your screen up where you wanted to either. You just don't want those studs of the screen wall pushing on the ceiling joists or expensive stuff could happen.

Hinges, sweet. I was looking for something to hinge my screen. I want to use the void behind mine for media storage, and hinge the screen. I'm stealing that idea!

haha apparently I thought I was pioneering the idea, but BlackBanshee had come up with yet last year

I just wanna do it so I can hide behind the screen and scare my wife one day but I seriously like the idea of being able to lift my screen wall like a car hood, plus I will be velcro-ing my Black GOM FR701 panels on the side and bottom of the screen wall too.
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post #125 of 276
9/26/08 at 12:15pm
How long has your neighborhood been around? Judging by the trees in the first page of posts I'm guessing less than 3...maybe?

When we built our house one of the main concerns was bentonite since we were up against the foothills and "Red Rock" formations. We inspected the basements of a bunch of houses that were 2-3 years old and within a two mile radius for cracking and other structural concerns (bentonite runs in veins - those maps are cool!).

Unfortunately since our neighborhood was new we could only go back about 1 year with our builder's work. So, we hired an independent soil engineer to review the soil reports from the builder's soil engineer. As part of that process he said that on the front range if your house is going to heave it will practically always be within the first five years after construction.

That may not be entirely accurate, but the engineer said that with the way most front range residential soil is "conditioned" these days (so the builders don't get burned), the heaving is much less of a worry long term. This is one of the reasons I'm holding out for one more year before finishing my basement - to watch for cracks or shifting.

I'd chew on that before you change all your plans and float a "false wall". But then again, I'm not as risk averse as others.
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post #126 of 276
9/26/08 at 12:24pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Audixium View Post

How long has your neighborhood been around? Judging by the trees in the first page of posts I'm guessing less than 3...maybe?

When we built our house one of the main concerns was bentonite since we were up against the foothills and "Red Rock" formations. We inspected the basements of a bunch of houses that were 2-3 years old and within a two mile radius for cracking and other structural concerns (bentonite runs in veins - those maps are cool!).

Unfortunately since our neighborhood was new we could only go back about 1 year with our builder's work. So, we hired an independent soil engineer to review the soil reports from the builder's soil engineer. As part of that process he said that on the front range if your house is going to heave it will practically always be within the first five years after construction.

That may not be entirely accurate, but the engineer said that with the way most front range residential soil is "conditioned" these days (so the builders don't get burned), the heaving is much less of a worry long term. This is one of the reasons I'm holding out for one more year before finishing my basement - to watch for cracks or shifting.

I'd chew on that before you change all your plans and float a "false wall". But then again, I'm not as risk averse as others.

I live about 30 miles east of the foothills, on the north east part of town (Reunion/CommerceCity/Brighton). So I am not near the mountain formation. Also the house was built in July of 2003, so its been 5 years now.

what do you think?
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post #127 of 276
9/26/08 at 12:43pm
Well, if your neighborhood streets aren't heaving (telltale sign) and your neighbors' basements aren't cracking, I personally wouldn't bother for "just" the screenwall. I doubt there would be enough force to move the rest of the structure. But - BIG BUT - I'm not an engineer.

It doesn't look like the Ella build floated the screenwall in Colorado Springs. It is a room within a room though. I think it was all designed by Terry Montlick...you could PM him and see if he'll chime in.
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post #128 of 276
9/26/08 at 1:09pm
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I just PM-ed him....wow! what a theater! I wish I didn't have the budget, time, and space constraints.
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post #129 of 276
9/26/08 at 2:58pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Audixium View Post

I doubt there would be enough force to move the rest of the structure. But - BIG BUT - I'm not an engineer.

But he did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night...

Even if you float the wall at the bottom, you can hide the gap with Gom or Black Velvet panels. It will look solid from the seats then.
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post #130 of 276
9/26/08 at 3:01pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chiahead View Post

But he did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night...

Even if you float the wall at the bottom, you can hide the gap with Gom or Black Velvet panels. It will look solid from the seats then.


I think I may end up doing that, I am glad you mentioned it, better safe than sorry I guess.

So do I still need to screw the top of the false wall to the ceiling/soffit? If I float the false wall, can I just screw the false wall to the stage and two side walls, without running screws into the soffit above?
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post #131 of 276
9/26/08 at 6:26pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by damnsam77 View Post

haha apparently I thought I was pioneering the idea, but BlackBanshee had come up with yet last year

I just wanna do it so I can hide behind the screen and scare my wife one day but I seriously like the idea of being able to lift my screen wall like a car hood, plus I will be velcro-ing my Black GOM FR701 panels on the side and bottom of the screen wall too.

I thought I would use velcro on my GOM panels, but I built my GOM panel/frames after I installed my screen on my front wall. This allowed for a snug fit of the panels without having to velcro them. Plus, I think removing the panels would be really hard if Velcro is used. If you must use it, use it sparingly.



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post #132 of 276
10/27/08 at 11:04am
Hey Sam, any progress?

-Ryan
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post #133 of 276
10/27/08 at 1:03pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmcveigh View Post

Hey Sam, any progress?

-Ryan

Oh man, I hit the dreadful 45-day slump....as you know there has not been much progress over the past month or so. The basement had passed final inspection in Late September and everything has been wired (Electrical and low voltage AV)
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post #134 of 276
1/31/09 at 3:58pm
Did you ever install that projector mount you purchased online from Wal-Mart? I just installed mine yesterday and I hate it. It uses only one screw to hold the pipe onto the ceiling mount that tends to make the projector uneven. I played with it all day and finally got it even, but still am not satisfied. I should have spent more and purchased a Chief mount.
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post #135 of 276
2/4/09 at 2:52pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SatelliteGuy View Post

Did you ever install that projector mount you purchased online from Wal-Mart? I just installed mine yesterday and I hate it. It uses only one screw to hold the pipe onto the ceiling mount that tends to make the projector uneven. I played with it all day and finally got it even, but still am not satisfied. I should have spent more and purchased a Chief mount.

hmm, well I had prepared the surface/ceiling in advance prior to drywall-ing my ceiling, so I have studs running throughout the designated 16"x 16" space for mounting the projector. The set up worked really well for me, I think I had to place a small folded piece of paper between the pipe and the mount to make it stiff, there was probably a 1/16" inch of wiggle room that I did not like where the pipe was not a tight fit over the ceiling mount, but I really do like the overall design where you can keep the projector mount's 4 arms screwed into the PJ and only disconnect the pipe from the ceiling mount. I think it was a good overall product, wish the pipe would fit a little tighter to eliminate the wiggle room, nothing that a little bit of folded paper thickness cant fix.


EDIT: BTW, the only reason I purchased this mount, is because it was the only black mount that I could find under $50 with long extension pipe, since I have to drop my projector about 12-14 inches from the ceiling.
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post #136 of 276
2/4/09 at 2:54pm
Thread Starter 
Oh yeah, I suck at maintaining construction threads. I am a few weeks away from finishing the entire theater. you guys are going to be pleasantly surprised! But yeah it will be 9 months in March since I started construction last June. I cant wait until its over!
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post #137 of 276
2/12/09 at 5:03pm
Hi Sam, how's it going? Did you get your PJ yet?

I am getting close to the riser construction point and am doing Showtimes as well. I see you did a 72" deep platform. How is that working for you? I really would like to make mine the minimum depth that I can but not really sure what that is?
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post #138 of 276
2/13/09 at 9:07am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoCaboNow View Post

Hi Sam, how's it going? Did you get your PJ yet?
I am getting close to the riser construction point and am doing Showtimes as well. I see you did a 72" deep platform. How is that working for you? I really would like to make mine the minimum depth that I can but not really sure what that is?

I will be getting my either JVC RS20 or Epson 7500ub this weekend, I am driving down to Colorado Springs this afternoon (Friday 02/13) to check out both PJ's side by side. I brought my PS3, one game (Drake's Fortune), and a handful of bluray demo material with plenty of light and dark scenes, and also my HTB AR lens (to run across both PJs in V-stretch mode) to see the difference. My wife is coming along to help me make that decision! So I hope my PJ dillema will be finally put to rest this afternoon.

I made my riser 72" deep and 144" wide to fit 4 showtime seats (this includes the front 2" lip and back 2" lip, and only the right side 2" lip, since its sitting against the left wall). I would say that you can still get away with a total of 68"-70" total depth because the showtime seats will have a pretty nice curve to them onces they are all connected, so the center seats will have a good 4" of extra leg room. I just wouldn't go anywhere less than 68" if you want the recliners to full stretch and have some extra room. Plus its actually kinda nice to have a nice deep riser if you have the room for it, it really makes the riser construction stand out. I have enough room in the center of the riser to set up my rockband2 drum set with plenty of comfortable room to to go around, so I am glad I opted for a 72" total depth and as much as 12 feet of width.


BTW, look for new "near-complete" pictures to pop up on this thread in the next couple of week, the only thing that I won't have completed will be the screenwall. Everything looks friggin amazing!!! I love my red/black themed theater, lots of eye popping color!


.
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post #139 of 276
2/13/09 at 10:49am
Good luck on your demo. Hopefully you will like the 7500 best...My RS10 still sits in the box - unopened. Hope to have the room to the point where I can do a little testing with it next week.

The wife is picking out the slab for the granite bar tomorrow and it is a little tight in the back of the room so any inches I save on the riser help out the bar. I think I can swing 70-72" though.
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post #140 of 276
2/13/09 at 10:59am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoCaboNow View Post

Good luck on your demo. Hopefully you will like the 7500 best...My RS10 still sits in the box - unopened. Hope to have the room to the point where I can do a little testing with it next week.

The wife is picking out the slab for the granite bar tomorrow and it is a little tight in the back of the room so any inches I save on the riser help out the bar. I think I can swing 70-72" though.

I know all about room tighness, I kind of wish I would have settled with a 68" total width because my L bar area will be VERY tight to the point where there will be no shelving space on walls, and I will have to have my electrician come out again to move 2 of the pendant lights a few inches back to the wall to make more sitting/standing room between the back of the riser and the bar and barstools. It may not make sense right now but once you see pics you will know what I am talking about, actually you can check out the room drawing/plan on the first page to see where the bar will sit in respect to the riser.
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post #141 of 276
2/23/09 at 7:36am
Thread Starter 
UPDATE!!! NEW PHOTOS UPLOADED TONIGHT! THEATER is 95% Finished!


I will finally upload plenty of pictures, they're long overdue. The only thing I have left to do is the screen wall (GOM Fabric Panels & 132" wide AT Screen) and the main wall behind screen wall (outlet furring, 2" JM814, and fabric). Also, once everything is near complete, I will set up my AV rack and connected all AV equipment including Projector, Speakers, and Shakers. All of which should take about 2-3 weeks or so.


But for the meantime, I will post my progress with the rest of the theater. Since my last main post in October, i have done the following:

- Finished 14 foot wide Stage with 10 foot wide curved step, with nearly 1800 pounds of sand (w/ USB access)
- Finished 144" x 72" x 12" Riser with 2" Lip, and curved lighted step (w/ Bass Shaker wiring, USB and Multi A/V access)
- Finished Floating Screen Wall Framing
- Finished 1" furring throughout the basement (over 20 outlets, 11 sconces, baseboard and door trim furring for 4 doors).
- 1" JM814 sound treatment on side walls (Followed Room analysis recommendations by Bryan Pape)
- Anchorage Red Delicious and Black Onyx GOM Fabric Theme on all walls in theater/basement (using track and 1" furring)
- Baseboard trim installed
- Carpet and premium pad installed (everywhere including stairs, riser, and stage)
- 4 Doors with Door Trim Installed
- Theater seats installed (Bass Shakers not wired yet)
- Oh yeah, I demolished a half wall, where I had built a "Interior Window" for the purposes of making it looking like a theater box office, but it was a terrible idea, so I demo-ed the wall, and I will now use my new 7'x5' to create an arcade area which will feature a full Arcade cabinet to where I will plug in an old laptop to run 1000's of Arcade game ROMS (Pretty sweet - more on this later).
- Last, the bar/concession area will be built over the next 6 months, I will take a nice break and possibly spend 100-200 hours with my new projector/theater before starting the L-shaped bar build.


So stay tuned....there will be plenty of awesome pictures coming up tonight!
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post #142 of 276
2/24/09 at 1:36pm
Thread Starter 
TEASER SHOT OF CURRENT PROGRESS (VIEW PHOTO JOURNAL PROGRESS FROM LAST 5 MONTHS BELOW)

PLEASE NOTE THAT MY CAMERA IS NOT TAKING GREAT PICTURES SO COLORS ARE NOT 100% ACCURATE. ALSO, THE CAMERA FLASH HAS OVEREXPOSED MANY DUSTY/DIRTY AREAS AROUND THE CEILING/SOFFITS, CHAIRS, FABRIC WALLS, BASEBOARD AND DOORS THAT WILL NEED FURTHER CLEANING AND PAINT TOUCH UP. NOTE THAT CARPET IS ACTUALLY DARK GRAY - Much Darker than it appears with Photo below (using Flash)[/b]


SIGH!!!! It's been a good 5 months since I had posted any progress photos, but as you can see I have been busting my butt the whole time I have been away from the forum. As you know, I did 90% of the work myself, with the exception of Drywall, Carpeting and Electrical work which was done by contractors.


Feel free to check out all photos in my PhotoBucket link (see signature). If you are in the process of building your theater and have any questions regarding fabric, furring, track, wiring, stage/riser construction, framing or anything in between, please feel free to ask away, I am glad to repay the favor and help back other AVS members with their construction questions and concerns. I Look Forward to read your feedback and comments.


Here are all the Construction Progress Photos Since Sept 30th 2008

(You can full photo journal from May 30th 2008 until Present on First Page)


Original Riser Step and Step Lighting Set up + Changes made to step shape and step lighting (Used 2x10's with Joist hangers, secured with nail gun and screws). I call this the The Evolution of the Riser Step ( I started with a very small square step, into a much larger square step, into a nice curved step)


First Pass - Small Square Step (With one Step light and two side riser lights):





Second Pass - BIGGER SQUARE STEP (Now with two step lights instead of one, and one center side riser light instead of two)





Insulation now stuffed inside riser joists, then 2 sheets of 3/4" Plywood installed as surface with Roofing felt in between:







Built an AV/USB box inside the riser (Front left corner of riser surface):





Finished (uncarpeted) AV/USB box):



Bass Shaker Wiring for Riser:



GrafikEye wired outlet for LED rope lighting under Riser's 2" lip:



Final Change to Riser Step (my dad, who is an architect engineer of 35 years, convinced me to and helped me redo the riser step to make it round - creating more access/walk room between right column/wall and riser)



Moving on to Stage Construction (Build stage with 10 foot wide curved step, fill with 1800 pounds of sand and insulation, cover with 2 sheets of 3/4" plywood + 2" lip - also roofing felt sandwiched between two layers of plywood - just like riser):











As recommended by Bryan Pape's room acoustic analysis - I closed the stage's right side open area (framed and drywall-ed to provide better corner bass trap sound treatment)



Added a hidden powered USB compartment under stage's curved step:



Now moving on to 1" Furring, 1" Fabric Mate Track, JM814 Insulation/Sound treatment, and Guilford "GOM" Fabric installation (used 1" FabricMate Track, 1" and 2" ripped lumber, liquid nails, screws, nailgun, Finishing Nailer, Pnuemtic Stapler...etc):

Special Note: I did not know the first thing about using FabricMate track and ripping 1" and 2" studs for furring purposes. I really started with zero knowledge and worked my way through the great AVS forum and builder community to get to the expert level I am at today, so if I can do it, so can any construction newb!!! You just need to think outside the box and try to be be a little more inventive to come up with better ways to work around columns, door frames, furring..etc. Big Big thanks to China Bud, BPape, RMcVeigh and Oman321 for their GREAT FEEDBACK and advice! And especially for my fellow Coloradoan RMcVeigh for letting me borrow some of his tools and always picking up the phone when I called with questions!


Running track around inside/outside corners, columns and soffits

Contrary to many have said before - You Only Need One Piece of track, not two side by side, in almost any corner or column application/orientation or inner/outer corners - Check out the photos to see the proof):

















Track and 1" Furring right of screenwall:



Oh yeah, I had already built the floating Screen Wall prior to carpeting:



Track and Furring between side-by-side door/door frames:



Textured/Painted Stairway meets Fabric at entrance of theater:





This is how I used one vertical piece of track to join the horizontal chair rail track (just drill/cut small side area on vertical track to meet with horizontal track fabric seam)



Close up of column/corner track orientation:





This may look ugly at first, but once you have insulation and fabric, you don't see anything but perfection!!!



Used 1"x 1" Furring around door frames and for baseboard furring (saved me $100's in track costs)




How to achieve a nice streamlined corner square look on columns using Furring, track and insulation:







Notice how nice and treamlined the column corners look (by using 1" corner furring, track, and insulation, I got a nice square column)




LET THE ELECTRICAL OUTLET 1" FURRING BEGIN! (Used 1/2" MDF with Jigsaw for square Furring, also used liquid nails, 2" Electricl Box/Sconce screws..etc - thanks to RMCVEIGH's recommendation)



Also notice the 1" baseboard trim prep furring





Now moving on to installing the GOM Anchorage black Onyx Fabric for chair rail (Floor to 32" chair rail height - Note that the 1" JM814/OC703 insulation/sound treatment has already been done using 3M Adhesive Spray):





No matter how dusty and dirty the GOM fabric got at first, it was as easy to clean as wiping it with a lightly damp cloth (I LOVE GOM FABRIC - SO EASY TO WORK WITH!!! Same with Track)





Next pictures will show the fabric after it was already trimmed at the bottom - you need to trim about 1" from the floor so the fabric doesnt touch the floor, then you will hide all the staples and any imperfections with the baseboard trim moulding.

Also by the time I took the next few pictures, the carpet crew showed up and started installing the carpet pad.























Next, I started cutting small X's through fabric where the wall outlets are, then stapled fabric to the inside using RMcVeigh's awesome Pneumatic stapler:



Now I had to become a little more inventive to think of a way of blocking my side non-egress windows. I did not want to close/board the windows permanently, so I used lighter sheets of 3/8" Plywood with low profile handles and the old fashioned door locks (with the swinging bar thingie)






Notice the First left window is now covered, but can still be easily removed using handles and 4 locks (nothing is blocked permanently)



Also I used a grey 1/2" lightly adhesive foam tape to seal any light coming through from the outside through the window/window plug border - Must have Cave Bat setting for my RS20 projector)





Now I had to disconnect all eleven wall sconces to do the 1" MDF round furring (as recommended by RMcveigh)



Then once all the round cuts where done and duplicated, I cut each furring panel individually - all I needed was a good jigsaw that supports curved/circular motion (cost was $35)



Continuing to upper wall furring and JM814 Sound treatment insulation above chair rail (NOTICE that I ran a 1" x 7/8" ripped studs horizontally across all walls at about a 72" height to support the mounting of heavy signage/posters, this way I never have to guess where the vertical studs are located once fabric is covering all walls.













I also installed a 24" x 20" panel of 7/8" on the wall incase I ever needed to mount a small LCD TV in the bar area)



Furring around GrafikEye and AV Rack wall openning:







Now I had to make a difficult decision, which is to demolish a half wall and eliminate my very lame pseudo box office interior window idea, the reason why is because I was able to score a full size Arcade cabinet for $150 through a friend of mine, he had built it from scratch on his own, and after his divorce, he decided to sell it. And in order to incorporate my Arcade Zone idea, I had to make some room, so I demolished this non-structural interior half wall/window and opened up a nice 7 feet x 5 feet room which I will now use for ther Arcade cabinet, an electronic DART board, and possibly a small side food/concession area).


These are the Before Demolition Pictures:





Destruction in Process (I cannot deny that this was the most fun part of the theater construction):



Now the debris is cleaned up (Notice Carpet gap which I will need to address/fix/patch) Also , my Drywall helper Jose, came out last weekend to smooth out /mud/tape the mess I created (Drywall repair not shown here)





Fabric around GrafikEye & Sconce Opennings (Remember I had to use 2" Special Electrician screws on all electrical outlet boxes, sconces, grafikeye because of the 1" furring and 5/8" drywall)










Now we're getting close to the semi-final product with the GOM Anchorage Red Delicious Fabric Installation on upper walls - Ofcourse like the rest of the lower wall area, I used both staples on furring strips around door frames, wall sconce and GrafikEye furring, and tucked fabric elsewhere inside track seams using a hammer and a nice firm puddy knife.

Now I will quickly roll through the most recent pictures showing the my current progress (This includes Fabric on all walls except Main Wall, Screen Wall, and the newly opened Corner area where the Arcade Cabinet will be placed, I still need to add track, furring and fabric in the next couple of weeks for that area. I also need to clean/dust off ceiling and touch up paint on ceiling, baseboard trim, and door trim and possibly repaint all 4 doors.

So for now, you may still notice/see some dusty/dirty areas in the ceiling, and on black fabric, and other areas in the ceiling and on baseboard and door trim which will need to be painted and touched up. I will do the final touch up once the theater is about 99% Complete.


Ok enough talking, Here we go!!!













As I said, I still need to finish that newly opened corner area:



































AV/USB Box inside Riser (Carpeted)








Bass Shaker Wiring for Front Row (through riser)




12 Seasons of South Park on my Archos Portable Player (What Kept me Sane for the past 9 months of basement construction)



Stage Full Carpeted (Also check out the hidden powered USB compartment underneath the stage curved step - now carpeted)









Riser/Column Area:






More riser pictures (Blue LED rope looselt hanging - not fully secure - Connected to Grafik Eye Zone 4):















Still need to add fabric/track/furring and patch carpet in the Arcade Zone area (Drywall repair is done):





Back to more general photos:












Custom Theater Sign:




Now to building the screen wall, finishing main wall behind screen wall, and finishing Arcade zone corner/area, not to mention connecting and setting up all the AV equipment


-Sam
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post #143 of 276
2/24/09 at 1:49pm
That was the longest post of pictures I've seen on AVS yet. Good job though. I'm glad the stapler has worked out for you and it looks like the various fabric, track, furring techniques we talked through really worked out. I'm still waiting to come over and check it out with your screen and projector up. Congrats,

-Ryan
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post #144 of 276
2/24/09 at 2:10pm
Damn Sam! Looks excellent. Great craftsmanship. I'm sure you're very glad to be at this stage.
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post #145 of 276
2/24/09 at 2:12pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rmcveigh View Post

That was the longest post of pictures I've seen on AVS yet. Good job though. I'm glad the stapler has worked out for you and it looks like the various fabric, track, furring techniques we talked through really worked out. I'm still waiting to come over and check it out with your screen and projector up. Congrats,

-Ryan

Haha, I know it's a lot of photos because I always seem to wait a few months before I post any progress, so you're getting about 5 months worth of hard work, blood and sweat in one post!

But I really feel obligated to put up a lot of step-by-step progression photos to help other AVS members with their construction. Honestly, if it wasn't for the wealth of information and knowledge sharing in other construction threads on this site, I would not dare to build such a theater.
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post #146 of 276
2/24/09 at 2:13pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White View Post

Damn Sam! Looks excellent. Great craftsmanship. I'm sure you're very glad to be at this stage.

Thanks Ted! Thanks for all your help early on in the construction process.
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post #147 of 276
2/24/09 at 2:28pm
Great work, it looks really nice! I'm jealous that you look nearly done compared to my build. Great to see another Colorado build nearing completion!
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post #148 of 276
2/24/09 at 3:24pm
Heluuuu der sam!

Comin'atcha from my PDA...(Sprint 3G Mogul )....so this will be short (... I just ushered in my 4th Grandchild -a Boy!) Gotcher Pm while taking a break and wanted to check out your Thread. Do you realize what my poor Phone just went through!!!! 5 minutes it was completely locked up.

But I got it all....

As a "DIY" Home Theater Builder myself, just let me say that your amount of consideration for all the things most others "space" on or opt to not bother with is exemplary and exceptional. You were faced with less than optimal space and made the most of the circumstances....and a bit more to boot!

So much to comment on, and with all of the required plaudits....you'd get a big head. For now I'll just say I'm planning a trip to CO soon to visit my Son (a Semi-Pro Sno Boarder) and if he doesn't get me buried or broken...I'll try to see if we can hook up and share some CO Micro.

Did you decide on the projector? I'd strongly suggest the RS-20 as it's total lumen output, combined with a much higher "Native" CR than the 7500 makes it the PJ of choice....if for no other reason than it's contrast alone.

I've installed the Epson "UBs" (1080s-6100s-6500s) as well, and find extremely little to fault in them, (hardly a thing considering the price...) but as in so much else in A/V...if ya can pinch & save elsewhere and hold $$$ in reserve for the big items, in this case the $1200.00 or so difference between the 7500 and RS-20 will pay you a continuing dividend.

But fer shur you won't bitch and moan over the Epson as a choice if that is your decision. You just might have to stay in a slightly less than optimized Video Mode to get that 135"er to deliver you the best possible image. I say this because even with the JVC's Iris fully open,and with it calibrated, it's Native Contrast will smoke the 7500's. And if you have the Lumens....and the Contrast....your image will most certainly be up to par with the rest of your effort. Let us know how the AT Screen "as is" performs. My recommendation is based on your hopefully being satisfied enough with the resulting image that you can just stop....and enjoy the fruits of your labor.

Getting 's from the Wife. Awwww...they seldom understand such "testosterone infused" subjects. B'Sides, I got 3 outher'uns. (Grandkids...not wives!) I just couldn't resist givin' some credit where its due.
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post #149 of 276
2/24/09 at 3:58pm
Sam,

Great looking theater! BTW, where did you get the sconces, do you remember the model #? I'm looking for something long like these for my theater.

Eric
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post #150 of 276
2/24/09 at 5:33pm
Nice theater, a titanic amount of work, I'd never be able to do all that.
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