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The "Official" Onkyo TX-SR876 Owners Thread - Page 103

post #3061 of 4979
Quote:
Originally Posted by perritterd View Post

Hello.
I am trying to determine if there is any advantage to using the multich. inputs (7.1) on the 876 w/HDMI cable carring the video from my Sammy 3600 Bluray to the 876 vs. using a straight HDMI hookup only for the audio & video? If you have a both of the inputs above available to you, is one setup better than the other?

Thanks for the help.
Bob P.

IMO you are much better off using HDMI for several reasons.

1. Audyssey room correction is not applied to the MCH inputs.
2. No Dynamic EQ or Dynamic Volume because of #1
3. Many BD players don't do speaker distances or do a poor job of bass management.
4. Your Onkyo has better DAC (D/A) converters than the Samsung 3600 BD player
5. You could have lip sync issues

Despite all that, its a worthy experiment for peace of mind. Grab 7 cables and try it both ways.
post #3062 of 4979
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrinklefree View Post

IMO you are much better off using HDMI for several reasons.

1. Audyssey room correction is not applied to the MCH inputs.
2. No Dynamic EQ or Dynamic Volume because of #1
3. Many BD players don't do speaker distances or do a poor job of bass management.
4. Your Onkyo has better DAC (D/A) converters than the Samsung 3600 BD player
5. You could have lip sync issues

Despite all that, its a worthy experiment for peace of mind. Grab 7 cables and try it both ways.

and.....#1 and #2 are CRUCIAL for me to get great sound! HDMI all the way! (even with all the stupid hiccups)
And it is also well agreed that the digital section of theses Onkyo's are MUCH better than the analog...
post #3063 of 4979
hopefully someone finds this information useful -

i had originally ordered a refurbed 876 from accessories4less and the first unit i got had a problem where the sound would become garbled after a few minutes of use. i did notice that the top of the unit got extremely hot. the temperature reading said ~55C and my infrared thermometer said around ~140F (60C) around the reon. needless to say i returned it and got a replacement unit.

the replacement unit runs a bit cooler (around 50C-55C according to the display) and performs flawlessly. despite those temperatures being pretty much in-line with what is expected with these units, i looked for a way to cool it down some more. even if it's designed to withstand temperatures upwards of 60C, my logic is it can't possibly hurt to remove some of that heat.

to give you an idea of my setup, i've got about 1" clearance on the left and right, about a foot above and barely enough in the back for banana plugs and speaker wire. save for the space on top, not exactly an ideal setup for something that runs hot.

i tried many different fan combinations. mostly tried 120mm fans of various makes, between 1 and 3 units. i usually moved on to something else because of either noise or insufficient flow. ultimately i settled on 2x 200mm cooler master fans (search for "200mm case fan" on amazon; unfortunately i don't have enough posts right now to post a link to it) situated at the rear of the unit. these fans run at 700rpm, which is slower than most 120mm fans so there's less noise. up close, they're barely audible and you can't hear them at all at any realistic distance from the receiver. the best i was able to get out of a 120mm fan configuration that didn't have a noticeable level of noise was about 43C.

as i said, before the fans, the receiver averaged 50C-55C after a few hours of use. after the fans, i haven't seen it go above 33C (normally averages 20C); about a 20C drop

the fans are oriented such that there is negative pressure in the the receiver (my train of thought was that there was that less dust would be sucked in through the vents on the side and at the front than through 16" of circular cutout). to reduce noise and improve airflow, i cut up some black foam board to cover the rear vents on the top of the unit (if you look at the top, there's an obvious demarcation between the front and the back set of vents). i then cut circular holes for the fans. stacked 5 of them together and the wind noise from the vents was reduced to the point where it is almost inaudible. i tried a couple different configurations, including blocking all the vents on the top (to try to minimize hot air ingestion) and this was actually the best configuration.

the fans are you standard 4 pin molex adapters. i picked up a molex -> AC converter for $13. the only real annoying part about the fans is the stupid blue led's. unfortunately they don't make a model without them so i just cut the wires.

all told, ~$50 in parts. will it ultimately help? probably won't know for 10 years if ever, but at bought me some piece of mind.
post #3064 of 4979
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrinklefree View Post

IMO you are much better off using HDMI for several reasons.

1. Audyssey room correction is not applied to the MCH inputs.
2. No Dynamic EQ or Dynamic Volume because of #1
3. Many BD players don't do speaker distances or do a poor job of bass management.
4. Your Onkyo has better DAC (D/A) converters than the Samsung 3600 BD player
5. You could have lip sync issues

Despite all that, its a worthy experiment for peace of mind. Grab 7 cables and try it both ways.

wrinklefree and cconklin1-thanks for the advice. I'll just leave the HDMI cable alone!

Bob P.
post #3065 of 4979
Quote:
Originally Posted by pkriengsiri View Post

the fans are oriented such that there is negative pressure in the the receiver (my train of thought was that there was that less dust would be sucked in through the vents on the side and at the front than through 16" of circular cutout). to reduce noise and improve airflow, i cut up some black foam board to cover the rear vents on the top of the unit (if you look at the top, there's an obvious demarcation between the front and the back set of vents). i then cut circular holes for the fans. stacked 5 of them together and the wind noise from the vents was reduced to the point where it is almost inaudible. i tried a couple different configurations, including blocking all the vents on the top (to try to minimize hot air ingestion) and this was actually the best configuration.

the fans are you standard 4 pin molex adapters. i picked up a molex -> AC converter for $13. the only real annoying part about the fans is the stupid blue led's. unfortunately they don't make a model without them so i just cut the wires.

all told, ~$50 in parts. will it ultimately help? probably won't know for 10 years if ever, but at bought me some piece of mind.

Can you post a picture of the setup? Thanks.
post #3066 of 4979
New 876 owner.

All my HDMI inputs correctly display on my Epson 1080p proj.

Set for HDMI out main.

My xb360 is hooked to Component 1.

Manual says output will convert to HDMI if I set Component to --.

I have tried everysetting I could think of and canot get the component inputs to display over the HDMI. I get the blue screen only, I see the OSB volu + etc, but no pic otherwise/

I have searched this and 906 - sorry if this has been asked/answered. I am sure hoping to not have to return the brand new 876.
post #3067 of 4979
Quote:
Originally Posted by TowJumper View Post

New 876 owner.

All my HDMI inputs correctly display on my Epson 1080p proj.

Set for HDMI out main.

My xb360 is hooked to Component 1.

Manual says output will convert to HDMI if I set Component to --.

I have tried everysetting I could think of and canot get the component inputs to display over the HDMI. I get the blue screen only, I see the OSB volu + etc, but no pic otherwise/

I have searched this and 906 - sorry if this has been asked/answered. I am sure hoping to not have to return the brand new 876.


OK, you have connected your XBox to Component 1. Now plug in your Optical/or coaxial cable, say optical to "CD" or whatever Optical you choose.

Now press Receiver>Set up>Input/Output>select “4. Digital Audio
Input”>Use the Up and Down buttons to select an input selector> either Optical 1 or 2 or whatever
.

In the 876 Optical 1 default is Game/TV and Optical 2 is CD.

So if you chose Optical 2 then CD becomes your Input you choose to see the video from the 360. That will play through HDMI out and the Optical Cable will give audio.

I don't own a 876 but a 707 and all connections are similar. Remember if you are using components then only video is available through the HDMI Out. For Audio you have to use a separate cable. The Input Name is based on your audio input connection.

See Page 59 of your Manual.
post #3068 of 4979
Insync44:

Thanks for the reply. I was not clear in my original post that the audio is fine its just a Blue screen with overlays showing on the projector.

I have the XB-> Onkyo on Component 1 (default DVD) and the audio to opt 1, changed in menu 1.4 to DVD-> opt1. I also have HDMI 1 for this HTPC set to VCR and get HDMI perfectly with sound/video which is set the VCR via HDMI1.

When I select DVD as an input I get a screen flicker then blue screen only.

I hear sound from the xb and the display on the 876 tells me 5.1 etc. I get the OSD of the volume working, but only a blue screen of video.

I have all the component inputs from the Onkyo set to -- per the manual.

Not sure what is going on... I hope it is a stupid operator error.

Thanks again.
post #3069 of 4979
Quote:
Originally Posted by TowJumper View Post

Insync44:

Thanks for the reply. I was not clear in my original post that the audio is fine its just a Blue screen with overlays showing on the projector.

I have the XB-> Onkyo on Component 1 (default DVD) and the audio to opt 1, changed in menu 1.4 to DVD-> opt1. I also have HDMI 1 for this HTPC set to VCR and get HDMI perfectly with sound/video which is set the VCR via HDMI1.

When I select DVD as an input I get a screen flicker then blue screen only.

I hear sound from the xb and the display on the 876 tells me 5.1 etc. I get the OSD of the volume working, but only a blue screen of video.

I have all the component inputs from the Onkyo set to -- per the manual.

Not sure what is going on... I hope it is a stupid operator error.

Thanks again.

No need to send it back.

You'll need to bind the component input to the source

Go to in/out assign-->Component Video Input and assign DVD to In1 or whatever its connected to.

Set HDMI main to source
Set source select-->Picture Adjust-->Resolution to AUTO to upscale to 1080p or whatever your display will handle.
post #3070 of 4979
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrinklefree View Post

No need to send it back.

You'll need to bind the component input to the source

Go to in/out assign-->Component Video Input and assign DVD to In1 or whatever its connected to.

Set HDMI main to source
Set source select-->Picture Adjust-->Resolution to AUTO to upscale to 1080p or whatever your display will handle.

wrinklefree:

God I must be thickheaded today.

I set component input menu 1-4 to DVD=IN1. (I also tried it with --).

I set Monitor Out to HDMI menu 1-1 to Main (only other options are sub and analog). I can set the resolution to SOURCE on this screen but just get a smaller blue screen. I cant see a setting for "Set HDMI main to source" as you indicated other than setting the resolution to source. Please tell me what I am missing. FWIW my FW is 1.05.

I also tried hooking up a composite kids game to the front panel, hit the aux front selector and it pulled right up in glorious 480i->1080p through the HDMI. I have got to be missing something.

Any help appreciated.
post #3071 of 4979
Quote:
Originally Posted by TowJumper View Post

wrinklefree:

God I must be thickheaded today.

I set component input menu 1-4 to DVD=IN1. (I also tried it with --).

I set Monitor Out to HDMI menu 1-1 to Main (only other options are sub and analog). I can set the resolution to SOURCE on this screen but just get a smaller blue screen. I cant see a setting for "Set HDMI main to source" as you indicated other than setting the resolution to source. Please tell me what I am missing. FWIW my FW is 1.05.

I also tried hooking up a composite kids game to the front panel, hit the aux front selector and it pulled right up in glorious 480i->1080p through the HDMI. I have got to be missing something.

Any help appreciated.

First double check your connections.
Set Component In1 to DVD (looks like you already did this).
Make sure there is no HDMI input set to DVD.
Switch to the DVD input.

1, 1, Resolution set to source.
4, 4, Resolution set to Auto

Assuming your XBOX is outputting a component signal (have you verified this?) it should work.
post #3072 of 4979
What, if any, are the differences between this unit and say the Integra 9.9 pre/pro (outside of the amp section and balanced outputs)?
post #3073 of 4979
Integra has ethernet for E-control and is Audyssey Pro ready.
post #3074 of 4979
I am a little confused about some of the info from the very helpful post number 1. The first issue relates to adjusting Intellivolume for boomy bass. The post says to adjust Intellivolume to 0dB for movies, 5dB for classical, 10dB for jazz and TV, and 15dB for rock. I think that means IF you need to correct for boomy bass?? And should it be -5, -10, and -15dB if you are correcting for boomy bass rather than +? And does that mean you need to do that manually every time you change media styles?? I think Intellivolume can only be differentiated by source, not by listening modes.

Then... the second issue relates to Multi EQ 9dB boost. I think it says that Multi EQ can boost the signal by up to 9dB. Therefore you should make sure it can never boost beyond 0 dBFS by doing something?? Dropping the digital signal level? Does that mean to reduce Intellivolume by -9dB?? or to reduce individual speaker trim by that amount?? or something else? And if my first paragraph above is answered by increasing Intellivolume by those amounts, how can you then reduce them by -9db as well??

Obviously I am really confused here and appreciate any help.

My last question has to do with establishing reference level definition. As I understand the post, if I am listening to a movie, and have leveled my speakers at 75dB, and have disabled any Intellivolume impact, and regardless of whether I am in Dynamic EQ or Multi EQ mode, with master vol control set to 0, that is reference level?? I also assume that is with a bit streamed input?? That is really LOUD if I understand that right.

I did use this post to help me set up many of the other settings and correct some things I was doing wrong... like leaving my OSD on and using THX loudness plus at the same time as Dynamic EQ. It is VERY helpful info and I really appreciate it. But I am totally confused about Intellivolume adjustments for boomy bass, and Multi EQ boost exceeding 0 dBFS, and understanding what reference level is.

Sorry to be such a dummy! Thanks for any help you can give me.
post #3075 of 4979
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrinklefree View Post

First double check your connections.
Set Component In1 to DVD (looks like you already did this).
Make sure there is no HDMI input set to DVD.
Switch to the DVD input.

1, 1, Resolution set to source.
4, 4, Resolution set to Auto

Assuming your XBOX is outputting a component signal (have you verified this?) it should work.

I figured out my problem, it seems the XBox360 output of 1080p over component was the problem - reduced to 720p and it works.

Thanks for all the replies.
post #3076 of 4979
My understanding of IntelliVolume is, that it allows for every input a separate sensitivity adjustment, so that the same volume levels can be achieved with different input levels from different peripherals.

Thus it has nothing to do with content, input frequency (specifically with booming bass etc.) or listening modes.

Trim range of Audyssey MultiEQ XT is normally +-12db. Above and below is outside range and unpredictable at least.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ls7z06 View Post

I am a little confused about some of the info from the very helpful post number 1. The first issue relates to adjusting Intellivolume for boomy bass. The post says to adjust Intellivolume to 0dB for movies, 5dB for classical, 10dB for jazz and TV, and 15dB for rock. I think that means IF you need to correct for boomy bass?? And should it be -5, -10, and -15dB if you are correcting for boomy bass rather than +? And does that mean you need to do that manually every time you change media styles?? I think Intellivolume can only be differentiated by source, not by listening modes.

Then... the second issue relates to Multi EQ 9dB boost. I think it says that Multi EQ can boost the signal by up to 9dB. Therefore you should make sure it can never boost beyond 0 dBFS by doing something?? Dropping the digital signal level? Does that mean to reduce Intellivolume by -9dB?? or to reduce individual speaker trim by that amount?? or something else? And if my first paragraph above is answered by increasing Intellivolume by those amounts, how can you then reduce them by -9db as well??

Obviously I am really confused here and appreciate any help.

My last question has to do with establishing reference level definition. As I understand the post, if I am listening to a movie, and have leveled my speakers at 75dB, and have disabled any Intellivolume impact, and regardless of whether I am in Dynamic EQ or Multi EQ mode, with master vol control set to 0, that is reference level?? I also assume that is with a bit streamed input?? That is really LOUD if I understand that right.

I did use this post to help me set up many of the other settings and correct some things I was doing wrong... like leaving my OSD on and using THX loudness plus at the same time as Dynamic EQ. It is VERY helpful info and I really appreciate it. But I am totally confused about Intellivolume adjustments for boomy bass, and Multi EQ boost exceeding 0 dBFS, and understanding what reference level is.

Sorry to be such a dummy! Thanks for any help you can give me.
post #3077 of 4979
Quote:
Originally Posted by gurkey View Post

My understanding of IntelliVolume is, that it allows for every input a separate sensitivity adjustment, so that the same volume levels can be achieved with different input levels from different peripherals.

Thus it has nothing to do with content, input frequency (specifically with booming bass etc.) or listening modes.

Trim range of Audyssey MultiEQ XT is normally +-12db. Above and below is outside range and unpredictable at least.

Gurk...
That is pretty much how I understood it too. That is why I am confused.
post #3078 of 4979
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrinklefree View Post

Integra has ethernet for E-control and is Audyssey Pro ready.

Thanks, may be a fellow 876 owner soon enough! Just hope the non-balanced preouts don't cause me hum issues (they did with my 9.8 on my rears). Though I'm even wondering if I will require an external amp ...
post #3079 of 4979
I've used the search function and found a few responses, though not what I was looking for. Has anyone used these functions for thier set-up in 5.1? Which was better and is it even worth it to do either? I'm using Paradigm Ref 40's for the front L/R. Is it worth the effort or a waste of time and speaker wire? I'm still trying to learn as much as possible about this receiver. Thank you.
post #3080 of 4979
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ls7z06 View Post

I am a little confused about some of the info from the very helpful post number 1. The first issue relates to adjusting Intellivolume for boomy bass. The post says to adjust Intellivolume to 0dB for movies, 5dB for classical, 10dB for jazz and TV, and 15dB for rock. I think that means IF you need to correct for boomy bass??

Yes.
Quote:


And should it be -5, -10, and -15dB if you are correcting for boomy bass rather than +?

Yes. By lowering the input level, you decrease the level of effect Dynamic EQ applies.
The numbers are an example only, taken from the more recent models which
implement an Audyssey Offset.
Dynamic Eq is/was designed for *movies*, not music content, see more at the end.
Quote:


And does that mean you need to do that manually every time you change media styles??
I think Intellivolume can only be differentiated by source, not by listening modes.

Well, yes. The easiest way is to adjust it for music only sources such
as CD and Tuner. If your setup is different such as combining CDs with
DVDs/Bluray, then you have to adjust it manually.
But then again, it is *only* if you feel the bass is overpowering when
listening to music.
Quote:


Then... the second issue relates to Multi EQ 9dB boost. I think it says that Multi EQ can boost the signal by up to 9dB. Therefore you should make sure it can never boost beyond 0 dBFS by doing something?? Dropping the digital signal level? Does that mean to reduce Intellivolume by -9dB?? or to reduce individual speaker trim by that amount?? or something else? And if my first paragraph above is answered by increasing Intellivolume by those amounts, how can you then reduce them by -9db as well??

Obviously I am really confused here and appreciate any help.

You don't need to worry about the max +9dB boost. It is internal to MultEQ
and you never need or should adjust anything with regards to that.
It is just mentioned for those who thought that MultEQ would blow their speakers
if boosted enough. The input level is dropped by 9dB first and then the cuts
and gains are applied so the output level will never be above the initial level.
That is why the overall level is somewhat lower with Audyssey engaged.
And, it has nothing to do with the trim levels for the different channels.
Quote:


My last question has to do with establishing reference level definition. As I understand the post, if I am listening to a movie, and have leveled my speakers at 75dB, and have disabled any Intellivolume impact, and regardless of whether I am in Dynamic EQ or Multi EQ mode, with master vol control set to 0, that is reference level?? I also assume that is with a bit streamed input?? That is really LOUD if I understand that right.

Yes, reference level is pretty loud and most people never listens at that volume
which is why Dynamic EQ exists.
Here are some quotes which describes it and also the part about music sources...
It addresses human hearing changes as the volume is lowered.
The first thing that diminishes at lower volumes is our perception of bass, so Dynamic EQ boosts it according to a set
of curves that match human perception.
The second thing that changes is our perception of surround impression, so Dynamic EQ boosts the surround level as you
lower the volume. Content has soft and loud parts that change moment by moment.
When the volume is turned down, the softer parts need more correction than the louder parts because they fall on
different perceptual listening curves.
So, Dynamic EQ monitors the content in each channel with a real time loudness meter and makes continuous adjustments to
preserve the correct balance.
The idea with Dynamic EQ is to turn the volume down to where you like it and it will adjust the response
and surround envelopment for you. It's made for listening at softer, not loud, levels.
If you are at exact reference level (0 on the master volume) then Dynamic EQ is turned off.
As you go down from there it starts to operate. The further you are from reference, the more Dynamic EQ is doing.
Its function is to maintain the same perceived frequency response and surround levels as what you get at reference volume.
These degrade rapidly as you go down from reference
Dynamic EQ assumes that the content you are playing was mixed under the exact same conditions. All movies are mixed in
dubbing stages that are calibrated under these exact same conditions. Mixers make decisions on the balance between low
and high frequencies while listening at these levels. And they also make decisions about the level of the content in the
surrounds.
When you turn the volume down below reference (i.e. below 0 on the master volume) then you are listening at a lower
overall volume than the mix was created. Our hearing is such that this affects our perception of bass and our perception
of surround impression. So, gradually, as you start to turn the volume down from 0 Dynamic EQ starts to compensate for
these two things more and more.
Now, if you play music that was mixed in a studio that is not calibrated to this level (most are not), then 0 on your
master volume is NOT the same level as the mixers heard. That means that the adjustments that Dynamic EQ starts to make
may be too strong because it is assuming that it must stop at 0.
Since we can't change the music industry to follow one standard, the next best thing is to provide a method to offset
Dynamic EQ from the film standard. You can do that by turning down the input trim for the music content input on the AVR
and turning up the master volume by the same amount. You will be listening at the same perceived level, but Dynamic EQ
will be applying less overall compensation.
post #3081 of 4979
So thanks to the excellent forum members here, I successfully e-mailed Logitech support and had some discrete Onkyo 876 IR codes added. The Dynamic EQ and Audyssey codes work as expected.

The resolution codes however, work on the main HDMI resolution control, and not on a source basis. For instance, if I send command Resolution 1080p, it changes the resolution setting in the main HDMI area. What I was hoping for was that the command would leave the main HDMI setting at "Source" so that sending the IR command would change the resolution setting on the currently active input. Obviously it doesn't work like that.

Any comments or creative workarounds, or am I missing something. It's not deal-breaker by any means as I have Dynamic EQ and Audyssey working, and that is my main concern. What is your take on this?
post #3082 of 4979
Quote:
Originally Posted by Outer Marker View Post

So thanks to the excellent forum members here, I successfully e-mailed Logitech support and had some discrete Onkyo 876 IR codes added. The Dynamic EQ and Audyssey codes work as expected.

The resolution codes however, work on the main HDMI resolution control, and not on a source basis. For instance, if I send command Resolution 1080p, it changes the resolution setting in the main HDMI area. What I was hoping for was that the command would leave the main HDMI setting at "Source" so that sending the IR command would change the resolution setting on the currently active input. Obviously it doesn't work like that.

Any comments or creative workarounds, or am I missing something. It's not deal-breaker by any means as I have Dynamic EQ and Audyssey working, and that is my main concern. What is your take on this?

The resolution commands do work as you describe. There are no remote codes that effect the source settings, but I would ask why does it matter for an on the fly resolution change? Changing the Main out resolution has the exact same effect as changing the Source resolution with the Main out set to Source.

Source is my normal output setting, with specific settings for each source in the Source setup settings. Within all of my Harmony activities, I have have access to the discrete resolution commands should I want to play with them. All of my Harmony activities start and end with a ResolutionSource command (to make sure that whatever "playing" I may have done is normalized).
post #3083 of 4979
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcalabria View Post

The resolution commands do work as you describe. There are no remote codes that effect the source settings, but I would ask why does it matter for an on the fly resolution change? Changing the Main out resolution has the exact same effect as changing the Source resolution with the Main out set to Source.

Source is my normal output setting, with specific settings for each source in the Source setup settings. Within all of my Harmony activities, I have have access to the discrete resolution commands should I want to play with them. All of my Harmony activities start and end with a ResolutionSource command (to make sure that whatever "playing" I may have done is normalized).

You're right, of course. It really doesn't matter in the long run where the resolution change occurs, as long as I remember to put it back to ResolutionSource at the end.

While we're on the subject, what do you use on the fly resolution changes for? I could see myself using it as a testing and comparison tool, but once I found the "best" setting, I would probably just use that "best" setting in the source resolution setup area.

Thanks for your comments!
post #3084 of 4979
Quote:
Originally Posted by Outer Marker View Post

You're right, of course. It really doesn't matter in the long run where the resolution change occurs, as long as I remember to put it back to ResolutionSource at the end.

While we're on the subject, what do you use on the fly resolution changes for? I could see myself using it as a testing and comparison tool, but once I found the "best" setting, I would probably just use that "best" setting in the source resolution setup area.

Thanks for your comments!

Just for playing/testing/experimenting/comparing, which I might not remember to set back to Source... which is why I have added the Source commands to my Activity startup and shutdown sequences (I know THAT is probably redundant... but its not hurting things and makes sure that its back to Source.)
post #3085 of 4979
I have read reviews about the power rating of the 876. Some say that is 140 watts-7 ch. driven. The manual says that it is 140 watts-8 ohm load- 2 ch. driven. In my setup, I configured the 876 for 7.1 ch.-6 ohm. load. What is the rated power output for this type of configuration from the 876 and is there an easy way to determine the power output the A/V equipment is putting out at any given time? My concern is that I've heard the fastest way to blow a speaker is to underpower it from the receiver ( I have Atlantic Tech. 4200e's). How do I determine if I am driving the speakers with enough power when listening to them at low volumes and at the same time figure out what the power output from the 876 actually is? I listen to music on 2 ch. and movies w/ 7.1 ch.

Thanks for any help.
Bob P.
post #3086 of 4979
Quote:
Originally Posted by rickardl View Post

Yes.

Yes. By lowering the input level, you decrease the level of effect Dynamic EQ applies.
The numbers are an example only, taken from the more recent models which
implement an Audyssey Offset.
Dynamic Eq is/was designed for *movies*, not music content, see more at the end.

Well, yes. The easiest way is to adjust it for music only sources such
as CD and Tuner. If your setup is different such as combining CDs with
DVDs/Bluray, then you have to adjust it manually.
But then again, it is *only* if you feel the bass is overpowering when
listening to music.

You don't need to worry about the max +9dB boost. It is internal to MultEQ
and you never need or should adjust anything with regards to that.
It is just mentioned for those who thought that MultEQ would blow their speakers
if boosted enough. The input level is dropped by 9dB first and then the cuts
and gains are applied so the output level will never be above the initial level.
That is why the overall level is somewhat lower with Audyssey engaged.
And, it has nothing to do with the trim levels for the different channels.

Yes, reference level is pretty loud and most people never listens at that volume
which is why Dynamic EQ exists.
Here are some quotes which describes it and also the part about music sources...
It addresses human hearing changes as the volume is lowered.
The first thing that diminishes at lower volumes is our perception of bass, so Dynamic EQ boosts it according to a set
of curves that match human perception.
The second thing that changes is our perception of surround impression, so Dynamic EQ boosts the surround level as you
lower the volume. Content has soft and loud parts that change moment by moment.
When the volume is turned down, the softer parts need more correction than the louder parts because they fall on
different perceptual listening curves.
So, Dynamic EQ monitors the content in each channel with a real time loudness meter and makes continuous adjustments to
preserve the correct balance.
The idea with Dynamic EQ is to turn the volume down to where you like it and it will adjust the response
and surround envelopment for you. It's made for listening at softer, not loud, levels.
If you are at exact reference level (0 on the master volume) then Dynamic EQ is turned off.
As you go down from there it starts to operate. The further you are from reference, the more Dynamic EQ is doing.
Its function is to maintain the same perceived frequency response and surround levels as what you get at reference volume.
These degrade rapidly as you go down from reference
Dynamic EQ assumes that the content you are playing was mixed under the exact same conditions. All movies are mixed in
dubbing stages that are calibrated under these exact same conditions. Mixers make decisions on the balance between low
and high frequencies while listening at these levels. And they also make decisions about the level of the content in the
surrounds.
When you turn the volume down below reference (i.e. below 0 on the master volume) then you are listening at a lower
overall volume than the mix was created. Our hearing is such that this affects our perception of bass and our perception
of surround impression. So, gradually, as you start to turn the volume down from 0 Dynamic EQ starts to compensate for
these two things more and more.
Now, if you play music that was mixed in a studio that is not calibrated to this level (most are not), then 0 on your
master volume is NOT the same level as the mixers heard. That means that the adjustments that Dynamic EQ starts to make
may be too strong because it is assuming that it must stop at 0.
Since we can't change the music industry to follow one standard, the next best thing is to provide a method to offset
Dynamic EQ from the film standard. You can do that by turning down the input trim for the music content input on the AVR
and turning up the master volume by the same amount. You will be listening at the same perceived level, but Dynamic EQ
will be applying less overall compensation.

YOU are amazingly helpful and I really appreciate the time you took to answer these questions!! Thanks so very much!!! I think I have it all figured out now thanks to your kind response. The level of knowledge you are sharing here would be impossible to find otherwise. You are my hero. Really.
post #3087 of 4979
New 876 Owner.
Hope someone can help with this.

I have a Dell connected via HDMI Input 4 as media server. All works well.

I want to listen to lossless audio (FLAC) files in stereo. However I want to send audio out of Dell USB port to outboard DAC to 876.

How can I keep HDMI video (to enable selection of music) but disable HDMI audio and output unprocessed stereo audio as described above.

Any help much appreciated.
post #3088 of 4979
Quote:
Originally Posted by perritterd View Post

I have read reviews about the power rating of the 876. Some say that is 140 watts-7 ch. driven. The manual says that it is 140 watts-8 ohm load- 2 ch. driven. In my setup, I configured the 876 for 7.1 ch.-6 ohm. load. What is the rated power output for this type of configuration from the 876 and is there an easy way to determine the power output the A/V equipment is putting out at any given time? My concern is that I've heard the fastest way to blow a speaker is to underpower it from the receiver ( I have Atlantic Tech. 4200e's). How do I determine if I am driving the speakers with enough power when listening to them at low volumes and at the same time figure out what the power output from the 876 actually is? I listen to music on 2 ch. and movies w/ 7.1 ch.

Thanks for any help.
Bob P.

I found a "Sound and Vision" test report (July/August 2008) in which the Integra DTR-8.8 (876's counterpart) was evaluated. With the 6 ohm setting they measured 162 w with 1 channel driven, 140w with 2 driven, 121w with 5 channels driven and 109w with all 7 channels. When they switched the impedance switch to 4 ohms, power measured was limited to 60 watts regardless of the number of channels driven.
post #3089 of 4979
Just picked up my 876 this morning, hooked it all up. Using my Sunfire 200w x 7 to biamp the fronts and center channel and the 876 to power the rears and surrounds.

A few ponits, under speaker setup, it seems to give me the option to set my L/R front as 6ohm or 4ohm, but not 8ohm. The manufacturer specs are 8ohm (91/90db efficiency). I did read an article from Secrets reviewing the mains (Mirage OM9s) and they said they measured them closer to 6ohm than 8ohm, is the Onkyo simply recognizing them as 6ohm?

Second question, with my former Integra 9.8 I used a 12 volt trigger to turn the amp on and off. The 876 also has a 12volt trigger that seems to be for Zone 2. But is it possible to use this to turn an amp on and off? I tried turning Zone 2 "on" in the setup menu, but that doesn't seem to work?

That's it for now, but I'm sure there will be more!

Thanks!
post #3090 of 4979
I lied, one other quick question. On my 9.8, the recommending setting for the OSD display was "off" as apparently it impacted the PQ somewhat. I believe this was an issue with the Scaler implementation on the 885/9.8/905 units.

Is this still the case with the 876? I know the Color Matrix issue was fixed, but curious about whether people are using the Immediate On Screen display.

Tx
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