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post #31 of 91
9/20/08 at 2:45pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Veda View Post

He wanted to save money so he's thinking that it'll end up a lot cheaper than buying any 10 AWG wire. I think that's why he's doing this, though to me it seems a lot of trouble and the cost difference is insignificant. But heck, if it's part of the fun of this hobby...

I'm only trying to save money relative to the outrageous high prices of commercial high-end cables.

If I wanted to save serious money on speaker wire, I'd get 100' of 12 gage zip from monoprice for $24.70

Anyhow, after reading part III on cables in issue 17 of theaudiocritic, I decided that 50 ohm coax isn't likely to be any better than 75 ohm, and went with a small order for an RG-6 type (75 ohm, 18 gage solid center, Canare coax cable, at 41 cents/foot), and a few Canare RCA connectors to get me started, and crimp hardware.

Just did the order. I want to thank hifisponge for PM input on the subject.

Needless to say, I'm going to do some comparison listening with the new versus the old, but only for the front L/R, to start with.

Cheers

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post #32 of 91
9/20/08 at 6:17pm
Why use coax at all? If all you wanted was solid core wire, Romex would work just as well.
post #33 of 91
9/21/08 at 6:04am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by WilliamZX11 View Post

Why use coax at all? If all you wanted was solid core wire, Romex would work just as well.

Do you really think Romex would work as well as RG-6 solid core coax for interconnects?

Worth noting is that there's a lot of wire in the amp and speakers. Generally most/all of it solid core.

All I've said in this thread is: 1) I like and have some experience with solid core for both speaker wire and interconnect wire, and that 2) I suspect that a solid core hot connector may in fact sound better than stranded hot connector.

Also, the specs for the two solid core coax cables I've chosen appear to be safe. And it's not costing a lot of extra money to revisit it again.

Cheers
post #34 of 91
9/21/08 at 6:14am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by WilliamZX11 View Post

Why use coax at all? If all you wanted was solid core wire, Romex would work just as well.

Do you really think Romex would work as well as RG-6 solid core coax for interconnects?

I think this question is worth repeating, as I suspect it will get ignored in my longer response of a minute ago.

Also, you're not serious about Romex as speaker wire, are you?

Cheers
post #35 of 91
9/21/08 at 4:06pm
I don't think that William was writing about using Romex for interconnects! Years ago some of the high-end audio magazines had articles about using Romex for speaker wires with good results. But back then 2 conductor (no safety ground) Romex was readily available. Nothing wrong with using co-ax for speaker wire, but I would use something larger like RG-11. If an amplifier can't deal with it, it's a poorly designed amplifier! (It's not the 1970's anymore)
post #36 of 91
9/21/08 at 4:48pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedskater View Post

I don't think that William was writing about using Romex for interconnects! Years ago some of the high-end audio magazines had articles about using Romex for speaker wires with good results. But back then 2 conductor (no safety ground) Romex was readily available.

I didn't try to find 2 conductor Romex, and my hunch is that neither did WilliamZX11.

However, I have twisted two shellac coated 18 gage copper wires together for speaker wire, and it was far stiffer than a single piece of either RG-8 coax or RG-11 coax.

Meaning that if I were going to try 2 conductor 10 gage Romex, I'd not be buying 100' of it, hoping that I could live with it underfoot to the surround speakers.

I'll be the 1st to admit that my recent purchase of 100' of RG-8 remains to be proven with regard to 1) practically and 2) if I might actually hear a sound quality improvement over my current 14 gage zip cord.

Quote:
Nothing wrong with using co-ax for speaker wire,

I'm using a big coax for my speaker wire (RG-8).

I'm using RG-6 coax for my interconnects.

Quote:
but I would use something larger like RG-11. If an amplifier can't deal with it, it's a poorly designed amplifier! (It's not the 1970's anymore)

RG-8 coax and RG-11 coax are very similar in size/construction. Main diff is that RG-8 has 50 ohm impedance, whereas RG-11 has 75 oh impedance. I've no clue if that has much, if any, merit for a coax used as speaker wire.

And I don't plan to spend time/money so that I can fab short pieces of RG-11 (for L/R only) so that I can compare the two.

Cheers
post #37 of 91
9/22/08 at 7:43am
The characteristic impedance is pretty irrelevent at audio frequencies for interconnects. So is the gauge for that matter.
post #38 of 91
9/22/08 at 8:02am
Habnab, you are probably correct about RG-8 being better than RG-11. My old catalogs show both co-ax's with several different center AWG sizes. But the RG-8's tend to be larger. If one wants to use Romex for speaker wire, you might think about using 4 conductor (3 plus safety ground) in 12 or 14 AWG. Two 12 AWG conductors are equivalent to a 9 AWG conductor and two 14 AWG conductors are equivalent to a 11 AWG conductor. That way you use all the copper.
post #39 of 91
9/22/08 at 8:11am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chu Gai View Post

The characteristic impedance is pretty irrelevent at audio frequencies for interconnects. So is the gauge for that matter.

Capacitance only right?
post #40 of 91
9/22/08 at 8:23am
And that only if the lengths are reallyyyyyyyyyyy long or if you're dealing with a passive preamp (volume control). Somewhere on Belden's site is a chart that lists the various cables they've got and the applications where they're typically used. Doesn't mean you can't use them elsewhere but other reasons start to rise in importance that mitigate the sensibility of them being used. You can spin your own thread but is it all that cost effective?
post #41 of 91
9/22/08 at 8:44am
Quote:
Originally Posted by habnab View Post

Do you really think Romex would work as well as RG-6 solid core coax for interconnects?

Worth noting is that there's a lot of wire in the amp and speakers. Generally most/all of it solid core.

All I've said in this thread is: 1) I like and have some experience with solid core for both speaker wire and interconnect wire, and that 2) I suspect that a solid core hot connector may in fact sound better than stranded hot connector.

Also, the specs for the two solid core coax cables I've chosen appear to be safe. And it's not costing a lot of extra money to revisit it again.

Cheers

I was talking about speaker wire, and yes, Romex would work just as well. I wouldn't use it, too stiff, making it a pain to route. Of course the same thing applies to coax. I would use speaker wire, you know, a product actually meant for what you are using it for.

You keep tallking about the "hot" connector. You do realise that the output from your amp is A/C right? The signal flows both ways on both wires, it would seem logical to use the same type and gauge for both leads.
post #42 of 91
9/22/08 at 8:46am
Quote:


I didn't try to find 2 conductor Romex, and my hunch is that neither did WilliamZX11.

You could use regular 12/2 Romex, and ignore the third lead. Or you could just use speaker wire.

Quote:


Meaning that if I were going to try 2 conductor 10 gage Romex, I'd not be buying 100' of it, hoping that I could live with it underfoot to the surround speakers.

And you can live with coax underfoot? Speaker wire should be run in the walls, anything else looks like amateur hour.
post #43 of 91
9/22/08 at 8:48am
Quote:
Originally Posted by habnab View Post

Do you really think Romex would work as well as RG-6 solid core coax for interconnects?

Presumably he does not mean for interconnects, but for loudspeaker cable.

Romex is fine for loudspeaker cable, except that it is not easily flexible.
post #44 of 91
9/22/08 at 12:50pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by WilliamZX11 View Post

You could use regular 12/2 Romex, and ignore the third lead. Or you could just use speaker wire.

See my response to the Romex 4 conductor comment.

Quote:


And you can live with coax underfoot?

I'm honestly not sure.

I'm going to find out. That's a luxury that I have.

Meaning I'm in a house on 5 acres by myself. So I'm the only one that I really have to please.

Maybe this insight, by itself, will kill this thread for use of RG-8 coax for speaker wire.

Anyhow, my own real experience with two twisted strands of only 18 gage solid (for speaker wire), suggests to me that even thicker Romex is out, out, out.

I expect to get my RG-8 wire today, so I should soon have a clue.

Quote:


Speaker wire should be run in the walls, anything else looks like amateur hour.

Please do not take this the wrong way, but in terms of being able to change your speaker wire, that is the worst solution.

Also, I'm assuming you only mean that for the surrounds?

If so, maybe that's OK as IMHO the connections to L/C/R speakers are far more important than that to the surrounds.

Cheers
post #45 of 91
9/22/08 at 12:55pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by WilliamZX11 View Post

I was talking about speaker wire, and yes, Romex would work just as well. I wouldn't use it, too stiff, making it a pain to route. Of course the same thing applies to coax.

Agreed on Romex stiffness as speaker wire, but maybe not on RG-8 coax stiffness as speaker wire.

I mean, 20 years ago I fab'ed small amounts of interconnect wire using RG-11 coax.

Believe or not, I even sold one pair; and I'm not much of a salesman.

I don't plan to do that again for interconnects (for either selling it or for using really thick coax for interconnects), but my memory is that the cable was way more workable than my self fab'ed twin 18 gage solid that I briefly tried for speaker wire.

Quote:


I would use speaker wire, you know, a product actually meant for what you are using it for.

You keep tallking about the "hot" connector. You do realise that the output from your amp is A/C right? The signal flows both ways on both wires,

That's a valid point.

I bite my tongue, as I'm unsure on hot connector.

Anyone care to add in on this?

Anyway, I still like solid center *coax* as both speaker wire and as interconnect wire.

That's what I'm doing/exploring in this thread.

My hope is that when I get done I'll have wire as good as one can get, for any amount of money for both speaker wire and interconnect wire.

I got sucked into buying a 1.5m AudioQuest Sidewinder cable at $70.

So at maybe an average of $90/AQ Sidewinder cable, if I redo a minimum estimate of 30 interconnect cables (I use a lot of interconnects), that's a target of $2,700.

And AQ Sidewinder cable is at best a mid cable, of more than quite a few on the current market.

In other word, so far I've spent about $400 on speaker/interconnect cable, tools, and RCA connectors.

My comparison for speaker wire is 14 zip.

My comparison for interconnects is low-level: both AudioQuest (both Sidewinder and G-Snake), and 75 ohm interconnect bought from www.omniprice.com

Quote:


it would seem logical to use the same type and gauge for both leads.

AFAIK, few if any commercial interconnect cables do that.

True balanced interconnect cables being the one possible exception.

But, of course, you clearly meant speaker cable. Right?

Build your case.

I'm all ears.

To my mind speaker wire, and interconnect wire, are systems that present a resistance/impedance/capacitance/inductance load.

So to me, using the same type and gauge for both leads isn't necessary.

BTW, I get the serious sense that few who've responded in this thread, have actually bothered to read Aczel's part 2 & 3 on cables in issues 16/17 of www.theaudiocritic.com

That is basic reading for anyone interested in any kind of audio wire.

Both issues were done more than a decade ago, so the RG-8 idea (as speaker wire) has been out there a very long time. If it were a hoax, it would have gotten blasted by now.

The two key things I got out of issue 17 was that excellence of the RCA connectors is important (which is why I'm going with Canare RCAs at $3/connector)

And that there was no mention of 50 ohm coax vs 75 ohm coax, and that tone control type effects only happen under very rare conditions.

Which is why I decided to go with Canare RG-6 coax (solid center), and the matching Canare RCA connectors, and the Carane tools to strip wire and do the crimping.

Cheers
post #46 of 91
9/22/08 at 12:58pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chu Gai View Post

The characteristic impedance is pretty irrelevent at audio frequencies for interconnects. So is the gauge for that matter.

Both interconnect wire and speaker wire are best thought of as a system.

Issue 16 of www.theaudiocritic.com (and 17 for interconnect wire) makes it clear that choice of speaker wire is much more likely to have a possible "tone control effect"

Both cable write-ups, in issues 16 and 17, are required reading for this thread.

Cheers
post #47 of 91
9/22/08 at 1:03pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedskater View Post

Habnab, you are probably correct about RG-8 being better than RG-11. My old catalogs show both co-ax's with several different center AWG sizes.

Correct.

My quick check of Belden solid core coax center specs shows RG-8 w/10 AWG, and RG-11 w/14 AWG.

Quote:


But the RG-8's tend to be larger.

You are barely correct, but NOT in essense. OD of RG-8 is .403" and OD of RG-11 is .400"

You're gonna quibble over an OD .003" difference?

Odds are that the OD difference (and the AWG) is due to the RG-8 being 50 ohm impedance, and RG-11 being 75 ohm. But that's just a guess on my part.

Quote:


If one wants to use Romex for speaker wire, you might think about using 4 conductor (3 plus safety ground) in 12 or 14 AWG. Two 12 AWG conductors are equivalent to a 9 AWG conductor and two 14 AWG conductors are equivalent to a 11 AWG conductor. That way you use all the copper.

Geez! So you'd have four 12 AWG solid wires!!

This is way way over the top for speaker wire, especially for the surround speakers!!

I mean, what is the Outside Diameter of that?

Something like .75" more or less?

It is surely a major amount more than .403"

Cheers
post #48 of 91
9/22/08 at 1:20pm
I have a copy of Fred Davis' paper, "Effects of Cable, Loudspeaker,and Amplifier
Interactions" which may be of interest. PM me with a valid email and I'll forward you a copy. Your interconnect lengths, I presume are going to be short (a meter or so) in which case you can use just about anything out there and there'll be no audible consequences whatsoever. For the 25' runs to the surrounds, again anything will work, but if you're running under a carpet and can't run through the walls, then you'd have been better served with any number of flat wires that are out there. The possible consequences of the wire acting as a slight tone (equalizer) control compared to a better suited, IMO, wire of similar gauge is worrying about nothing. Speaker placement, room effects, where you sit, etc. are all far more signficant factors. It takes a signficant, and I do mean signficant difference in wires before one can reliably hear a difference.
As to the wire characteristic impedance and system thing...that has no bearing whatsoever. You're going from a low output impedance source to a high input impedance destination. There's no need for impedance matching as there would be with say video cables. Hey, don't trust me. Email Steve Lampen over at Belden.
post #49 of 91
9/22/08 at 3:23pm
Quote:


Please do not take this the wrong way, but in terms of being able to change your speaker wire, that is the worst solution.

Also, I'm assuming you only mean that for the surrounds?

If so, maybe that's OK as IMHO the connections to L/C/R speakers are far more important than that to the surrounds.

Cheers

No, I mean that for all speakers, including the mains. If you use the proper gauge wire the first time, why would you ever need to change wires?
post #50 of 91
9/22/08 at 5:43pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by WilliamZX11 View Post

No, I mean that for all speakers, including the mains. If you use the proper gauge wire the first time, why would you ever need to change wires?

What exactly is "the proper gauge wire" that you are going to permanently put into your walls?

Anyway and not to beat this to death, I got my package from Allied today. So I'm off to the races tomorrow.

The spool of thick RG-8 coax looks like it may be livable with. Of course, I won't know that until I've lived with it for awhile. i.e. as the speaker wire for my surrounds, which is going to take roughly a week to get in place. (Furniture moving still under way)

IMHO no one, with any high-end interest in sound (and you generally know that early on), should ever put any speaker wire in their walls.

Cheers
post #51 of 91
9/22/08 at 7:14pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chu Gai View Post

...Speaker placement, room effects, where you sit, etc. are all far more signficant factors. It takes a signficant, and I do mean signficant difference in wires before one can reliably hear a difference.

In my experience, it does not.

FWIW, I agree with the many who've posted on the importance of matching volume levels when doing a comparison. I've both a Behringer ECM8000 mic, and a Behringer Ultra-Curve Pro DEQ2496 analyzer, and I plan to do some serious matching of volume levels when I do my listening comparisons.

Quote:
As to the wire characteristic impedance and system thing...that has no bearing whatsoever.

Wow. That's a statement that you'll come to regret.

Quote:
You're going from a low output impedance source to a high input impedance destination. There's no need for impedance matching as there would be with say video cables. Hey, don't trust me...

I honestly hate to say it, but I no longer trust you.

Cheers
post #52 of 91
9/22/08 at 7:22pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by habnab View Post

Do you really think Romex would work as well as RG-6 solid core coax for interconnects?

No, not if you're trying to go far, a good coax with low capacitance is what you want.

Quote:
I think this question is worth repeating, as I suspect it will get ignored in my longer response of a minute ago.

Also, you're not serious about Romex as speaker wire, are you?

Cheers

Why not? All that matters for speaker wire is resistance, and romex is cheap and of larger gauge with low resistance. The reason more people don't use romex is that it's solid, not stranded, thus it's a PITA to work with for speaker wire.

It never ceases to amaze me that people go to ungodly lengths to use cat cables, coax, paper clips, god knows what else for speaker wire, with absolutely no idea why they are doing so. And if anything it's to their detriment since inevitably those bizarre choices for conductors are higher in resistance than any basic stranded large-gauge speaker wire. The only reason to use these other cables for speaker wire is if someone screwed up the install or changed their minds afterwards and you can't get the proper wire to a certain location, and you have to fudge it just to get by.

Otherwise, it's just stupid.
post #53 of 91
9/22/08 at 7:37pm
Quote:
Wow. That's a statement that you'll come to regret.

Why the heck would he? He's absolutely correct. The quarter-wavelength for a 20khz wave down a wire is enormous. Cable impedance is irrelevant for analog audio interconnects, and it's also irrelevant for speaker wire. What matters for the former is mainly capacitance and shielding, capacitance mattering much more depending on the output impedance of the source device with regards to the length of the run. For speaker wire what matters for the latter is really only resistance, thus gauge. In both cases the requirements differ based on length.

It seems you have an enormous amount of misconceptions about what is important for both analog interconnects, and analog speaker wire. Thus your absolutely bizarre and irrational desire to use coax to connect your speakers for no discernible reason I can see.
post #54 of 91
9/22/08 at 7:54pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by habnab View Post

What exactly is "the proper gauge wire" that you are going to permanently put into your walls?

Depends on the length. I used 14 guage.

Quote:
Originally Posted by habnab View Post

IMHO no one, with any high-end interest in sound (and you generally know that early on), should ever put any speaker wire in their walls.

Please explain why no one interested in "high-end" should run speaker wire in the wall. I've been audio more than 35 years now, and this is a new concept to me.
post #55 of 91
9/22/08 at 9:09pm
Thread Starter 
Originally Posted by habnab:
Do you really think Romex would work as well as RG-6 solid core coax for interconnects?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisWiggles View Post

No, not if you're trying to go far, a good coax with low capacitance is what you want.

Low cap coax is what I want for speaker wire, hence my selection of Belden 9913 50 ohm coax as my speaker wire. As far as I know, coax does not get any lower than 50 ohm.

Originally Posted by habnab:
I think this question is worth repeating, as I suspect it will get ignored in my longer response of a minute ago.
Also, you're not serious about Romex as speaker wire, are you?

Quote:


Why not? All that matters for speaker wire is resistance,

Wrong.

Read the cable writeup in issue 16 of www.theaudiocritic.com before you bury yourself.

Quote:


and romex is cheap and of larger gauge with low resistance. The reason more people don't use romex is that it's solid, not stranded, thus it's a PITA to work with for speaker wire.

Totally agreed on all of that.

Quote:


It never ceases to amaze me that people go to ungodly lengths to use cat cables, coax, paper clips, god knows what else for speaker wire, with absolutely no idea why they are doing so.

Agreed.

Plus they spend incredible sums of money for high-end speaker cable.

Quote:


And if anything it's to their detriment since inevitably those bizarre choices for conductors are higher in resistance than any basic stranded large-gauge speaker wire.

RG-8 solid center coax is 10 AWG center w/shield at roughly 11 AWG.

Quote:


The only reason to use these other cables for speaker wire is if someone screwed up the install or changed their minds afterwards and you can't get the proper wire to a certain location, and you have to fudge it just to get by.

Otherwise, it's just stupid.

Stupid is two syllables.

Dumb is one syllable.

Cheers
post #56 of 91
9/23/08 at 9:23am
I'm an avid fan of The Audio Critic, too, but I think you misconstrue a lot of what the article says about cables.

Coaxial cable is excellent for unbalanced interconnections, but for loudspeaker cabling it is ungainly and neither inherently advantageous nor disadvantageous.
post #57 of 91
9/23/08 at 10:10am
Quote:
Originally Posted by habnab View Post

In my experience, it does not.

FWIW, I agree with the many who've posted on the importance of matching volume levels when doing a comparison. I've both a Behringer ECM8000 mic, and a Behringer Ultra-Curve Pro DEQ2496 analyzer, and I plan to do some serious matching of volume levels when I do my listening comparisons.

If you're doing serious matching, you don't use a mic. You run a test tone at say 1kHz, measure the output at the speaker terminals, and take it from there.

Quote:


Wow. That's a statement that you'll come to regret.

For speaker wire? For analog interconnects? Not in the lifetime of the universe. The frequencies in question are far too short.

Quote:


I honestly hate to say it, but I no longer trust you.

So email Belden. I gave you a contact. Then you can no longer trust Belden when the answer comes back.

Quote:


Cheers

sux 2bu
bff
Chu

Quote:
Originally Posted by habnab View Post

Originally Posted by habnab:
Low cap coax is what I want for speaker wire, hence my selection of Belden 9913 50 ohm coax as my speaker wire. As far as I know, coax does not get any lower than 50 ohm.

You're not suggesting that 50 ohm is the capacitance I trust. Capacitance of the various variants of zip cord, even the cute stuff from a place like KnuKoncepts, is at least as low as the coax you're using.
Quote:


Read the cable writeup in issue 16 of www.theaudiocritic.com before you bury yourself.

You'll note the long distances and the speculation that the reports of people hearing differences was due to those differences in electrical characteristics even though the distances they used was far less. Further, PA didn't even address whether the reports of audibility were obtained under blind conditions.

Quote:


RG-8 solid center coax is 10 AWG center w/shield at roughly 11 AWG.

Speculation or did Belden actually say that? I didn't see it on their website.

Quote:


Cheers

Pip. Pip!
post #58 of 91
9/23/08 at 10:58am
Quote:
Originally Posted by habnab View Post

Low cap coax is what I want for speaker wire, hence my selection of Belden 9913 50 ohm coax as my speaker wire. As far as I know, coax does not get any lower than 50 ohm.

First, coax can get lower than that.

Second, WHY on earth do you want a coax of a specific impedance for speaker wire. Impedance does not matter at ALL in this application. And coax is a ridiculously poor choice for speaker wire because the gauge is very low, which means you can't go very far without the resistance of the coax becoming very relevant.

Your desire here is completely unfounded by any facts or physics or logic. It makes no sense at all.

Quote:


Read the cable writeup in issue 16 of www.theaudiocritic.com before you bury yourself.

It is unmitigated ridiculousness. Read an actual textbook on wire, a good place to start is Lampen's small book about wire. I tend to trust actual professionals rather than the garbage you just linked to.

Quote:


Stupid is two syllables.

Dumb is one syllable.

Cheers

You can count. Good for you.

Obviously nobody is going to convince you that your desire is irrational and ignorantly formed. So my advice to YOU: go buy exactly the coax you listed here and use it in the way you want. My advice to everyone else: do no such thing.
post #59 of 91
9/23/08 at 7:17pm
Thread Starter 
Quote: Read the cable writeup in issue 16 of www.theaudiocritic.com before you bury yourself.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisWiggles View Post

It is unmitigated ridiculousness. Read an actual textbook on wire, a good place to start is Lampen's small book about wire. I tend to trust actual professionals rather than the garbage you just linked to.

I get the strong sense that you did not even look at the cite?

If so, a label of "ridiculousness" is not merited.

Quote:


You can count. Good for you.

Obviously nobody is going to convince you that your desire is irrational and ignorantly formed. So my advice to YOU: go buy exactly the coax you listed here and use it in the way you want. My advice to everyone else: do no such thing.

I expected to take lumps by doing this thread.

I hope to get ideas, and maybe even to give them.

One idea that I've gotten by doing this thread, and by doing my 1st RG-8 cable today, is to forget about it for the surrounds. As the main speakers I care about are front L/R. But I'll in fact do RG-8 coax cable for L/C/R.

I may also need/want better spade lugs (with longer "fingers"), but I'll wait until I actually hook some cable up with the lugs that I just got. The thought of spending $5/lug (or more) for the Monster stuff turns my stomach. If you know of a site for that, kindly post it.

Another possibility is to go with a thicker zip for the surrounds. The $25 price for 100' of 12 gage from monoprice is OK, but I suspect that it won't make any noticeable diff on SQ over the 14 gage that I currently use.

Also, my 1st order of interconnect stuff shows up this Thursday.

Cheers
post #60 of 91
9/23/08 at 7:27pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Lee (QSC) View Post

I'm an avid fan of The Audio Critic, too, but I think you misconstrue a lot of what the article says about cables.

Coaxial cable is excellent for unbalanced interconnections, but for loudspeaker cabling it is ungainly and neither inherently advantageous nor disadvantageous.

I'd be interested in your suggestion on a possible replacement of my surround speaker wire.

I'm currently using 14 gage zip and it may be as long as 30'

Since I'm not all that concerned with my 5 speaker sound for movies, one real option is to stay with the 14 gage zip as I suspect that spending $25 with monoprice for 12 gage zip won't make any noticeable difference.

All ears.

Cheers
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