Corey Lane Cinema Bar - LSWHO's Theatre Bar - Page 12

LOL , my thoughts exactly. I am leaning towards the top one personally but I am in the process of doing a solid copper one that matches the bar top with the swirls and all. I'll post that picture as well to see what folks think.

Thanks HT1, Your bar and theater are very nice. Any idea for the bar top yet? I really like your hanging bar lights and wish I would have added those, I was just worried they would be in the way from viewing the screen and T.V. but I may go back and add them.

Welcome and post as much as you want. I am working on a insert that is solid copper like the bar top ... pictures to follow once it is done.

Midwben, welcome. I don't think it was mentioned but I used Miniwax Red Oak stain. Wood is red oak also.

I had a PM on how I figured out how much envirotex to use on my drip rail and thought I would share how I calculated it to save some people the time and possibly the frustration. There are multiple ways to calculate it but this was the easiest for me to do and understand. I only did the drip rail and not the top yet but the formula would be the same. I just used the formula to convert cubic inches to fluid ounces. First you must convert your inches to cubic inches and then to fluid ounces.

Take your measurements, Using mine as an example: The drip rail length of the 3 sections are 72", 36" & 28" totaling 136". The width is 3 1/4 " and the height or depth I wanted was 1/4" of envirotex.
To convert your inches to cubic inches you take Height x Width x Length.
so taking my example, height or depth of .25 (1/4") x width 3.25" x length 136" = 110.50 cubic inches.
There are 1.80468754 cubic inches in 1 fl. Oz. so divide your cubic inches by the 1.80468754 and you get your fluid ounces, in this case it is 110.50 cubic inches / 1.80468754 = 61.23 Fluid ounces. I used 2 32 Oz. envirotex kits which equaled 64 Fl. Oz.
Hope this helps,
Dennis

Thanks noonan, I might have to look into that, not sure where I can add it but I may use it under my middle wall cabinet. Thanks for the link.

Working on the second cabinet door and changed the design a bit to accept the inserts much easier and more professional looking. The first door did not have a groove cut so that I could just slide the inserts in. This second door does have the grooves and in my opinion look a hell of a lot better. I may go back and re-do the first door or just replace it. Here are a couple of shots of the new door to help better explain. Since the groove is cut you can only glue the 3 sides of the cabinet together at this time so I need to finish the inserts and stain the inside of the cabinet because once you add the insert and the fourth piece it is in there for good. These doors have not been sanded yet so they look a lot rougher than they will after sanding and staining.

Here you can see the groove cut along the inside of the door.


The top of the piece has a biscuit joint cut in it so it looks like the grooves are cut really deep in the wood but this is not the case it is less than 1/4" deep.


Inserts installed to check the depth.
Here is how the inserts slide in, once they are finished I will slide them in just like this and then add the fourth and final piece to the door with biscuit joints and glue.


This is just to checks the inserts fit nice and snug when it is all together. the door is not 100% assembled yet.

Found these inexpensive corbels that will fit the outside of the bar and decided to add them. I purchased one of them and stained it and made the cut out on the back of it to fit around my rope lights to make sure they worked and that I liked them. I then went back and got the rest that I needed. I found them at HD for $5.99 each, they are 5 x 7 and should add a finished look to the bar.

It's for the details man, no really I am just to lazy to change it in Photobucket I wish my work was good enough to show off or to take orders, I am no where near that level. Still learning and like doing things myself when at all possible especially to save money.
After seeing your work you can make your own too. I had to make mine mainly because they were 35" long and I could not get one because that is not a standard size. You should make your trim fit a standard door in case you just want to buy a standard door from lowes or HD.

Then welcome to my boat because your in the same boat I am in.... making it yourself. LOL
If you really do need one made or help I would be more than happy to help you. I could just router the edges and add biscuit joints and the bisuits and then you assemble, glue, stain etc ?

Depends on the hinges but if you use what I used (100 opening Euro hinges from HD) then just measure the opening with your final trim installed and then add a
1/4 " to all sides and that will be your door. Now if you have alot of trim to cover you could make it larger than a 1/4" to cover some of that space but we would need to find hinges that extend farther out.

No photo of it here, you must mean on your thread. We just need some accurate measurments and we will be able to figure it out.

Some minor updates on the cabinet doors. I finally painted the inserts and installed the door together. I still need to final sand, stain & poly.

Added to Corbels for a more finished detailed look to the front of the bar. After I cut out the spot in the back of the corbel to fit around the rope light I installed them with some finish nails and glue.

The Corbels are not the ones I would have liked if money wasn't a problem but the ones I like are $50+ each and these were only $5.99 each. I wanted something to add to give the front a more finished looked. I am also looking for something for the center of the squares on the front.

Still doing the finishing touches on the cabinet doors and will post the pics soon. With spring weather we've had here, i've been working on the yard the last couple weekends (the disadvantage of having some acreage)
After seeing your bar top I know you could make the cabinet doors yourself with a little guidance

Finished staining the left cabinet door but now realized I have another problem. I did not notice prior to staining how much difference the two doors grain was. Now that they are both stained it jumps out horriblly to me....I now have to go back and do another door for the right side with a grain that matches the left....damn can't I catch a break once in awhile. It's these little things that make this take forever....