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Toshiba 52HM84 Ballast Replacement (with large pics!)

post #1 of 86
Thread Starter 
First, many thanks to those of you who have done this before me and posted elsewhere. There was a request for pics of the ballast board install, so here it is.

FULL DISCLOSURE AND WARNING: YOU ARE ON YOUR OWN AND I WARRANT NOTHING FROM THESE PROCEDURES. I AM NOT A TV TECH. THERE ARE SOME VERY HIGH VOLTAGES IN THE BACK OF A TV BECAUSE OF THE LARGE CAPACITORS. BE CAREFUL. THERE ARE ALSO MANY DELICATE CABLES AND CONNECTORS IN THE BACK OF A DLP TV. PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK! IF YOU ARE UNCOMFORTABLE WITH ANY OF THE STEPS, CONTACT A TV TECHNICIAN IN YOUR AREA TO DO IT!

You will need:
1. A slightly long standard head Philips screwdriver.
2. A leatherman or small pair of pliers.
3. The Toshiba service manual. Refer to it often if you get lost. - download it here.
4. The ballast board (Toshiba Part Number: 23122468). I got mine from Conn's in Flordia here.
5. Some tape or a marker to label some of the cables so you don't forget what went where.
6. Patience. Lots of it.

The Steps

1. UNPLUG THE TV! Put the TV somewhere so that you can easily get to the back of it. You'll need at least 3 ft of room behind the TV. REMOVE THE LAMP ASSEMBLY NOW.

2. Remove all of the screws on the lower part of the TV. Set the cover aside. It should look like this:



3. To get an idea of where we're going, as you look at the back of the TV, just behind the fan and lamp assembly is the ballast board, looks like this:



4. Next, remove the screws from the silver brace arm in the middle and the bronze screws that hold the light engine assembly. This brace is attached to the ribbon cable by a Zip tie; you do not have to cut the Zip tie if you don't want to. Refer to the service manual if the pic below doesn't show the screws clearly, but it will be obvious when you are looking at the "light engine sled".



5. Remove the bronze screw holding the plastic shield that angles down to the lamp. This screw is kind of hard to see just looking at the back of the TV, it is located up and above the ribbon cable attached to the back AV board.



6. Using a small pair of pliers, squeeze the plastic nipples in and push the cable hangers out of the plastic shield. Remove the shield carefully from the back of the TV and set aside.



7. Slowly and very carefully, remove the copper ribbon cable as shown. This copper ribbon cable was the hardest thing to put back in during reassembly, I kid you not. I hate that ribbon cable with all of my soul. Next, remove the yellow, blue, and red connectors as shown. If you forget where they went, the connectors are different lengths and only go to one and only one receptacle.



8. Slowly and carefully, pull out the light engine assembly. There are 2 yellow leads that power the lamp assembly that you can remove if needed. To remove them, slide the rubber footing off, and you will see a very small clip, push the clip back while pulling on the lead and it will come off. If you do take the leads off, be sure to label them with a marker or some tape. Mine were quite stubborn in letting go (I didn't see the clips under the rubber footing before this posted), so I left them on. If you do leave them on, be carefull of the stress on the cable going around the lens assembly. I removed the cables from the plastic do-hickey holding onto them and moved the yellow cables to the front of the lens assembly.



9. Next, slowly pull out the light engine sled and turn it so that you have access to the ballast assembly, like so:



10. Noticing how filthy your ballast board probably is , remove the two screws holding the ballast board.



11. Now, remove the 2 connectors attached to the ballast board like so:



12. Next, gently push the plastic tabs holding down the ballast board to the light engine assembly and gently push up the ballast board to loosen it from the plastic tabs grip. There are two other tabs on the other side. Now you'll now be able to remove the ballast assembly entirely to install your new board.



13. Now, on the other side of the ballast assembly is the lamp connector. Remove the screws as shown.



14. Gently turn the lamp connector towards you to remove it; notice the orientation of the connector so you install it correctly when you put the new board in.



15. Now, install your new board and put everything back together in reverse order. This would also be a good time to take some compressed air and blow out all of the dust in there. Take your time during reassembly and be very, very, very carefull connecting everyting back together.

16. Be sure to put the back cover on, and re-install the lamp assembly before connecting your inputs and powering back on.

17. That's it! If you did everything carefully enough, you should be enjoying your Toshiba again and just saved about $350! Congrats!
post #2 of 86
Wow, excellent post coronad0. Tremendous job documenting the steps. I have the 57HM167, but expect it to be at least somewhat similar. This will come in handy if someday I need to replace the ballast.
post #3 of 86
Wow ..us 52hm84 owners really got ripped on these things. I will say this, I do love the picture. With HD and blu ray this thing is awsome!
However, I have had for 3 years and have replaced 3 bulbs and now..I'm taking on the ballast. I called Toshiba and got quite the story. It would not surprise me to see a class action on this one someday soon.
This post will help greatly.
I wish you lived near me (southwest FL)lol.
I think i can handle it though.
I got some big hands and i wear a size 16 ring, so this will be a delicate operation for me.

I just wish my ballast was getting here before sunday so i could see my football games on my big screen!

Thanks for the awsome post.

Mike
post #4 of 86
Well got my part in this afternoon. Wasnt as bad as I thought it would be.
Thanks to this post it was alot easier.
I agree that copper ribbon was a bear to try and get in right, very delicate.
Very dusty inside I took care of that.
Took about 1-1/2 hr with a 3 year old running around and me stopping every once and a while to double check and get a drink.
but when I got it all hooked back up and turned it on...I was so proud of my work and that i saved almost 500 bucks.
I do notice that my picture looks like it is a little crooked. Like I have Direct tv, and if you bring up the info bar up top, it is about a 1/4" lower on the right side then the left.
Is there a fix for this issue in the service menu, or do i have to adjust something inside? Or should I leave it alone? If i had to dig back inside I think I'd leave it alone.
Anyhow, thatnks again for your great post.

Mike
post #5 of 86
BLESS YOUR SOUL coronad0!!!!

We had some crazy tech from a Toshiba dealer fiddle with it twice for a total of 2 hrs and he didn't seem to know what he was doing-who tried to tell us it was the whole light engine that needed to be replaced!!! So we took it into our own hands and thanks to YOU -it worked like a charm!!! It took about 1.5hrs (trying to be gentle) and your instructions were AMAZING!!!!

This was our last ditch attempt before getting a new TV - YOU ROCK!!!

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!!
post #6 of 86
Fantastic !

you can add me to your list of beneficiaries from this fix. Ordered the part, followed your instructions, and it all worked great.

a huge thank you to all of you geniuses !
post #7 of 86
Thanks for posting this very useful ballast replacement thread - just one thing I don't see the pics in the post - is it a browser thing or ?? - if at all possible could you send me a doc with the pics included - my ballast needs replaced but I would feel better if I had pics to follow

Thanks
post #8 of 86
I'm pretty sure this is what I am needing to do for my tv. But I'm not 100% sure.

Here is what my tv is doing.
About 75% of the time when I go to turn the tv on, it begins to start up and I hear the sound from whatever input the tv is set to. However, the green light begins to blink 9 times while the red light stays solid. The tv then restarts and most of the time it comes up after that restart. The screen appears to take a little longer to brighten up than it used to (about 45 seconds or so) and from there on the picture looks as good as ever. Occasionally the tv will have to restart a 2nd time before it comes on. I'd say that is happening only about 5% of the time.

So is this what I need to do to attempt to fix it? Thanks!

*Quick edit here: Sometimes the tv does start up on the first try.
post #9 of 86
So, for the past 3 days or so now, my tv has been turning on the first time every time. I don't know what happened but I hope it continues to work like it has been.

However, still wondering if the symptoms that I was seeing before are indeed a sign that the Ballast needs to be replaced.
post #10 of 86
Anyone?
post #11 of 86
Thanks for the awesome post. I have been without my 62" now for a week as tomorrow was the first available service call that I could get. The tech was able to stop by tonight and took a look at the tv. He said that the problem is either the ballast or the light engine. It is doing the same thing as noted above, the red light is solid and the green light flashes 9 times and then restarts and goes through the whole thing again. The lamp was replaced 7 months ago and so I purchased a new one last week but that did not fix the issue, luckily I can take it back.

From what I have read it sounds as though if it is the ballast that has died I would not hear the clicking sound when I turn it on, however I do. I hear the fans kick into high too. What I am affraid of is putting money into the ballast just to find out that it isn't the problem. Anyone have any ideas on how I can diagnose whether the ballast is in fact the issue?

Thanks

Dave
post #12 of 86
Ok, it looks like my TV is finally going to require the Ballast replacement to work again. When I'm lucky it comes on but I realize that soon it probably won't even come on anymore.

My last question (hopefully). What is the difference between part #23122468 and part #23122468P? It looks like they are probably the same thing but everywhere that I've seen online shows that the one with the P on the end is cheaper. Is there any difference? I'm hoping to order the part today so hopefully I'll get a quick reply on this. Thanks in advance!
post #13 of 86
I called a local service centre and asked them if they happened to stock the replacement ballasts. The reply I received was no we usually fix them. There is a resistor on the board that should read 1000ohms. I pulled the ballast out and tested it and sure enough it was open. I took it into him and he confirmed that it was open. Within 5 minutes he replaced the resistor. I took it home and put everything back together with hopes of having TV again. Unfortunately that was not the only broken piece. I called him and he said that if changing that resistor didn't fix the problem then it was the light engine.

The TV was put at the side of the road and I am now in search of a new plasma. Never to own another Toshiba.
post #14 of 86
I'm still waiting to hear from anyone if the symptoms I am having sound like a lamp ballast issue. Does anyone know for sure? Thanks!
post #15 of 86
Quote:
Originally Posted by smergs View Post

Ok, it looks like my TV is finally going to require the Ballast replacement to work again. When I'm lucky it comes on but I realize that soon it probably won't even come on anymore.

My last question (hopefully). What is the difference between part #23122468 and part #23122468P? It looks like they are probably the same thing but everywhere that I've seen online shows that the one with the P on the end is cheaper. Is there any difference? I'm hoping to order the part today so hopefully I'll get a quick reply on this. Thanks in advance!

Sounds like a ballast problem to me. I just replaced mine after symptoms similar to yours. So far (3-days) the bulb starts first time, every time (and it seems quicker). As for the part numbers, I read elsewhere that the part without the "P" is a Toshiba factory part and the part with a "P" is an aftermarket part. I can't attest to the accuracy of this, but it makes sense. I used the part with the "P" and it appeared identical to the original ballast.
post #16 of 86
Quote:
Originally Posted by smergs View Post

I'm still waiting to hear from anyone if the symptoms I am having sound like a lamp ballast issue. Does anyone know for sure? Thanks!

Thanks coronad0 for your excellent and detailed post. I used your photos and description to change the ballast in my 62HMX94. Everything was essentially the same. I did run into one problem you didn't mention. After reassembling my set, the bulb didn't light and I got an "open bulb door" indication on the front LEDs. The door was closed so I opened up the set and found the plug on the end of the blue/white wires from the bulb door switch had become unplugged when I pushed the chassis into place. I searched and searched for the other end of the plug, without success. Finally, I pulled the electronics chassis (the left chassis) and found a mating plug (labeled P902a) on the main circuit board. Not being sure it was the correct plug, I downloaded the service manual for my set and confirmed it was the correct plug. I reassembled the set and it worked perfectly. Not only did the new ballast seemingly fix my intermittent start-up problem, but cleaning the lens really improved my picture!
Thanks again for your description and pictures. It made the job easy to do!
post #17 of 86
Genius! Thank you so much coronad0 for the pics and text. We were told by the repairman that the entire light engine would need to be replaced for $1,000. We found your post, and after receiving the $100 part we bought on-line, we fixed it in under an hour. Works beautifully now. Thanks again!
post #18 of 86
Thank you!! I feel comfortable replacing my ballast, however everyone else on this thread must have bought out all the ballasts in the US. I can't find one for the life of me. I ordered the regular ballast and the refurbished one on seperate orders from Conn's. I will cancel the order that is not fulfilled first. At the moment they are both backordered

BTW, my TV is a 62HM94 ( 3 years old ). I have had to replace the bulb twice and now I have to replace the ballast board.

The cost of owning this TV is starting to get rediculous.
post #19 of 86
Thread Starter 
Just a quick "your welcome" to everyone who was able to save some $$$ before buying a very expensive light engine or costly repair!

Smergs, in case no one has gotten back to you, yes, it sounds like a ballast issue. The P on the part indicates a direct Toshiba ballast, not a refurbed one, which would also explain the $154 for the P version, $76 for the refurbed one.

On a sad note though, about a month ago my light engine finally died out and that was enough for me and I have moved over to the Plasma world with a Panasonic 50" ( http://www2.panasonic.com/consumer-e...00000000005702 from Costco it was about $1500! ) and it has a gorgeous picture.

I'll be putting my TB25-LMP lamp and 23122468 up on eBay or on here at AVS if anyone needs 'em. I think I have only about 10 or so hours on both the lamp and the ballast board.

I'll probably put the hull that is now my 52HM84 up on Craigslist or something for extra parts or if someone wants it for a local community college for their electronic engineer students ... no charge for that, the thing is so huge and is taking up much needed basement space where a sweet air hockey table should be

Glad everything worked out for those of you who did the job yourselves!
post #20 of 86
Thread Starter 
Hey all,

I actually did not have enough posts on AVSForum to sell my items ... lol.

Here's the links:

TB25-LMP: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=170294340249

Ballast Board: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=170294340827

Good luck!
post #21 of 86
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hudsy View Post

Thanks for the awesome post. I have been without my 62" now for a week as tomorrow was the first available service call that I could get. The tech was able to stop by tonight and took a look at the tv. He said that the problem is either the ballast or the light engine. It is doing the same thing as noted above, the red light is solid and the green light flashes 9 times and then restarts and goes through the whole thing again. The lamp was replaced 7 months ago and so I purchased a new one last week but that did not fix the issue, luckily I can take it back.

From what I have read it sounds as though if it is the ballast that has died I would not hear the clicking sound when I turn it on, however I do. I hear the fans kick into high too. What I am affraid of is putting money into the ballast just to find out that it isn't the problem. Anyone have any ideas on how I can diagnose whether the ballast is in fact the issue?

Thanks

Dave

I'm having the same problem as Dave - it recycles 9 times (with both loud click and fan noise), then both red and green lights flash. Then I press the power on button again and within 1 or 2 cycles, it comes on. Since Dave never got a direct answer, I figured my simplest/cheapest approach was to replace the ballast and go from there. I did call an authorized Tosiba tech and they thought ballast too. FRELL! No luck. Spend 1.5 hours replacing it and same thing still happens. At least I know what the problem is NOT :-)
So, any ideas? Do I need a new light engine (symptoms don't sound like light engine from descriptions I've read)?
post #22 of 86
To Coronado:

How did you know that it was finally a light engine failure and it was time to scrap the whole TV??
post #23 of 86
Thread Starter 
Well, I had called a few technicians and went over every troubleshooting step I took ... one refused to diagnose over the phone, the others said "Yeah, it sounds like you should just replace the whole light engine" ...

I was not about to dump $500 to $600 dollars into a 720p HDTV when I could go out and buy a brand new HDTV for just over twice that amount ...

There always comes a point where the cost of maintaining a piece of hardware outweighs the cost of just buying new and basking in the warm glow of extended warranties and 1080p
post #24 of 86
I am pretty sure that I have the 52HM84 DLP (47 Inch).

Anyways my question is. My TV was making some god awful noise for the last couple of months (on and off, usually on start up only) and then about 5 days ago, the color would start getting all weird (changing colors) and then tonight, the TV changed colors and then the Red/Green lights start flashing and it turned off never to start back up. Is this the Light Engine? Are they $$$? Does anyone know? Thx
post #25 of 86
Quote:
Originally Posted by rgeer3 View Post

I am pretty sure that I have the 52HM84 DLP (47 Inch).

Anyways my question is. My TV was making some god awful noise for the last couple of months (on and off, usually on start up only) and then about 5 days ago, the color would start getting all weird (changing colors) and then tonight, the TV changed colors and then the Red/Green lights start flashing and it turned off never to start back up. Is this the Light Engine? Are they $$$? Does anyone know? Thx

It sure sounds like a light engine problem - but to be sure you're probably going to need to call an authorized Toshiba repair center. Worst case, you're out $100 for an on-site visit and then decide if you're going to pay further. If it's the light engine (as I'm expecting is the case with my 46hm94), then it's around $750 just for the part. In my case, I'm just going to use the set until it dies and get a new one. I'm not throwing any more money into this set after replacing the ballast and another bulb.
post #26 of 86
Thanks, though I hope I never have to use this.
post #27 of 86
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rgeer3 View Post

I am pretty sure that I have the 52HM84 DLP (47 Inch).

Anyways my question is. My TV was making some god awful noise for the last couple of months (on and off, usually on start up only) and then about 5 days ago, the color would start getting all weird (changing colors) and then tonight, the TV changed colors and then the Red/Green lights start flashing and it turned off never to start back up. Is this the Light Engine? Are they $$$? Does anyone know? Thx

Yeah, specifically this sounds like a color wheel AND maybe a ballast issue if you've never had problems with your set before. There are numerous posts on AVS about the color wheel going bad ... without being there to see it and check it out I would not know for sure, but a simple color wheel fix is going to be tons cheaper than a whole new light engine.

If you need some price sticker shock on a new light engine, here ya go.
post #28 of 86
Best Buy is replacing my light engine this week in my tv. luckily i paid the $299 service plan for 4 years. tech that came out to look at the tv said he has seen a rash of these sets have the ballast problem over the last few months. i guess it the age of the tv, mine is just under 4 years old. i have already replaced the lamp once.
post #29 of 86
Anyone know where I can get the 23122468P lamp ballast besides, Conns/Tiger/hhgregg/partstore? They all seem to be the same place and it is backordered there.
post #30 of 86
I got my ballast from Tritronics Inc. - paid around $100
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