Quote:
Originally Posted by fireman325 
I would never tell anyone to violate their local building codes, but after 12 years in my profession, I can't imagine why some things are regulated like they are and others are not. I've seen a number of houses burn down over the years due to these things being maxed out in a number of different applications, yet you can use them all you want.
Never seen one of the good ones fail though. I've also never seen a case of a fire because there was a power cable that disappeared into a noninsulated wall for 3' before re-emerging to be plugged in. Of course, because there is no such thing as common sense, I guess you have to be able to keep people from running 100' undersized power cables in their insulated walls and through their attics.

I would never tell anyone to violate their local building codes, but after 12 years in my profession, I can't imagine why some things are regulated like they are and others are not. I've seen a number of houses burn down over the years due to these things being maxed out in a number of different applications, yet you can use them all you want.
Never seen one of the good ones fail though. I've also never seen a case of a fire because there was a power cable that disappeared into a noninsulated wall for 3' before re-emerging to be plugged in. Of course, because there is no such thing as common sense, I guess you have to be able to keep people from running 100' undersized power cables in their insulated walls and through their attics.
I thought the same thing, but ended up using this: http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...t=1#largeimage
My main concern was with insurance and inspection when I sell the house down the road. Not really a practical reason to do it that I can figure. In fact by adding 4 connection points it is probably a bit less safe in reality. But it was pretty simple and inexpensive.
The Monoprice solution worked OK but I did break a tab and the bottom plate is upside down when mounted so the electrical and low voltage don't cross. I ended up cutting off most of the "hood" to make running the low voltage easier. I also had quite a bit of trouble finding a cord that fit into the recessed outlet on the bottom plate but was still shallow enough to allow my console to sit close to the wall. The included one sticks out over 2" which can be a problem if your furniture below it has a solid back.












) and a Panny 58" 850 on a 3725. That's the heaviest duty tilt and swivel mount they make. Ordinarily I would not consider an articulating arm mount as leverage can't help but make them weaker than a fixed mount but I had to squeeze this screen into a very tight space and there was just no way I could have used a fixed mount. Just hung it today and I was very impressed with the build quality and weight (FWIW). There is some play with the screen about 8" from the wall but that is to be expected. The 3900 is absolutely rock solid as I would expect a fixed mount to be. Monday my 111FD arrives and it will be mounted on a low profile 3610.
. It is just a little unnerving when it wobbles everytime you try and change settings by pressing the buttons.