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My WA, DW, aluminum frame screen build - Page 6

post #151 of 240
Thanks for sharing these tips on how to build a very easy screen frame!

I'm about to build mine, but I want my screen to hang from the ceiling on hinges, so I can fold the screen towards the ceiling when I'm not using the projector. I have a window behind where the screen will be.

Here's a screenshot of what I want to do:



Basically, instead of using two 3-way connectors to connect the 2 middle beams, I'd use a 4-way connector (like the top one here) on the top frame, and attach 2 1-foot extension arms. These extension arms would bring the screen to my desired height, about 31in from the floor.

I'd then mount 2 hinges similar to these ones from McMaster-Carr, to these extension arms and then to the ceiling.

Has anyone tried something like this? Questions I have:

1) When the screen is in use, the weight of the screen will be forcing the screen to slide from the 4-way connector. Is the grip there enough to hold it? Or should I use some kind of glue to make sure it doesn't slide and drop my screen?

2) Can I easily drill on these aluminum profiles? I'd need to drill 2 holes for the hinges.

3) Would the hinges support the weight of the screen? They are stainless steel 0.18" thick plates, so I think it should be fine. I need to find out if I can mount the hinge to the joists in the ceiling. I don't want to have those attached to drywall.

Any feedback is appreciated!

Thanks!

Edit: Forgot to say this is a 110" 16:9 screen.
post #152 of 240
The grip itself will definitely not be enough to hold the screen -- you will need to put some screws in there.

When I built my 80/20 screen, I bought too little material so I do not have the center supports at all -- just the outer rectangle. To affix the wilsonart screen to the frame, I used 3M double sided sticky tape, then I drove small screws into each of the joints for added support.

To mount the screen I used small (1.5") hook-eyes and attached them with a nut on the other side. I then drove 2 lag bolts into my floor joists and have some lightweight black chain in the middle. When it comes time to get in the crawlspace, we simply take the screen down.

I thought about the hinged method, but since I have a drop ceiling it wouldn't work. If you plan on leaving the screen down most of the time, I would highly recommend my solution as I am very pleased with how it turned out. If you plan on having it up most of the time, the hinge solution is probably a better bet.

Oh, and mine is a 100" 16x9 screen.
post #153 of 240
Update -- I threw in a couple of iPhone pics in my build thread...
post #154 of 240
Guys
This thread looks great, I need to build a new frame for our (relocated) home theater and have always wanted the strength and geometry of an aluminum frame. I have a question for the folks who have used flexible material (e.g. BOC cloth) for their screen:
on my wooden frame, when I put a center (top-to-bottom) support in and attached the material, there was a clear outline of the support when viewed from the front; the screen material was touching the support. I ended up recessing it by using a thinner piece of wood. Is there a similar problem with these aluminum frames or are they rigid enough that you can use a center support that is flush with the outside edges?
Hope my question is clear and thanks for the help!
post #155 of 240
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by postman View Post

Guys
This thread looks great, I need to build a new frame for our (relocated) home theater and have always wanted the strength and geometry of an aluminum frame. I have a question for the folks who have used flexible material (e.g. BOC cloth) for their screen:
on my wooden frame, when I put a center (top-to-bottom) support in and attached the material, there was a clear outline of the support when viewed from the front; the screen material was touching the support. I ended up recessing it by using a thinner piece of wood. Is there a similar problem with these aluminum frames or are they rigid enough that you can use a center support that is flush with the outside edges?
Hope my question is clear and thanks for the help!

postman,

I can vouch for the rigidity of the frame itself, however I used wilsonart DW laminate for my screen. Hopefully someone will respond that has used the type of material you are asking about.
post #156 of 240
Removed
post #157 of 240
Quote:
Originally Posted by Waters_10 View Post

Basically, instead of using two 3-way connectors to connect the 2 middle beams, I'd use a 4-way connector (like the top one here) on the top frame, and attach 2 1-foot extension arms. These extension arms would bring the screen to my desired height, about 31in from the floor.

I'd then mount 2 hinges similar to these ones from McMaster-Carr, to these extension arms and then to the ceiling.

You might also look into 1" tubing connector hinges like this one ... just a thought..

Great thread -- was looking into this 1" tubing myself for the past couple weeks until I found a tripod screen for about $60 that I'm considering (120" diag) .... if that doesn't pan out, then I'll be returning to this tubing idea..

Also, there are a couple other websites that make this 1" aluminum square tubing.. McMaster-Carr has some, as well as Online Metals and also Esto Connectors.. Hopefully these other sources will be helpful to some of you..

cheers!
..dane
post #158 of 240
Guys, this Frame stuff is getting better all the time, and looking really professional. Down sizing the components really helps. I'm watching closely. This thread is a boon for laminates and fabric Screens alike.
post #159 of 240
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by audiodane View Post

You might also look into 1" tubing connector hinges like this one ... just a thought..

Great thread -- was looking into this 1" tubing myself for the past couple weeks until I found a tripod screen for about $60 that I'm considering (120" diag) .... if that doesn't pan out, then I'll be returning to this tubing idea..

Also, there are a couple other websites that make this 1" aluminum square tubing.. McMaster-Carr has some, as well as Online Metals and also Esto Connectors.. Hopefully these other sources will be helpful to some of you..

cheers!
..dane

8020, like the Esto Connectors tubing, has ridges inside. This helps to "bite" on the connectors, for a nice tight gripping fit. Not sure about the tubing from the other sources.
post #160 of 240
I just made one of these. 115" diagonal after masking. I also used a pair of aluminum french cleats from home depot to hang it and wilsonart designer white laminate.





post #161 of 240
I was checking out the ebay store corresponding to the 8020 product line ( http://stores.shop.ebay.com/8020-Inc...0Q2em14?_pgn=2 ), and I noticed they have a variety of Quick Frame frame shapes.

For instance, the TWIN FLANGE 8020 9025, which appears that it MIGHT be able to allow for a tongue-in-groove way of holding the laminate. Anyone try this? This would also allow for the external aluminum frame itself to act as a mount for the black velvet masking tape.

One could also use the 9005 SINGLE FLANGE, and use that flange, instead of the frame itself as the mount for the velcro, by the way.

Then there's the 9015 DOUBLE FLANGE, wherein one could use the inner flange via velcro (or gorilla glue as someone else did) to mount the laminate, and still have an outer flange to act as a support for rope lighting, while using the frame itself as a support for wood-based black velvet mask.

Any thoughts on this?
post #162 of 240
I would be leery in that the laminate would have some "play" inside the groove and likely warp.

In my installation, I used 3M double sided foam/waterproof sticky tape, and it has worked out wonderfully.
post #163 of 240
Yeah, that was my concern, too (regarding play in the groove with warp).

But I THINK what I'm going to try is to use the SINGLE FLANGE 9005 for the outer frame, get 3 vertical supports using the conventional Quick Frame (remember, this screen is going to be extra wide, 12', because I am using the 2.35 anamorphic lens, so I need that vertical support) get the tube frame just big enough to accommodate the laminate from the inside and then velcro/glue the laminate not onto the frame, but the single flange, allowing for an outside 1" border of exposed frame. Before actual construction, I will paint the frame matte flat black (though I reserve the right to velvetize it afterwards). The FRONT side of the flange will be used to support the laminate via velcro. The BACK side of the flange will be used to support ROPE LIGHTING.

The only issue I can potentially see is that I THINK the vertical supports, made of the 1", will interfere with the desire to have the laminate rest atop the flange on the outside border of the frame piece. That is because, if I'm picturing it correctly, the vertical pieces will have a surface contacting the laminate that will be higher up than the deeper placed flanges...

... Unless there is a way to get the vertical support by having the 1" braces attaching from BEHIND and not within the frame. That will keep the frame from resting flush against the wall, obviously. But I WANT that, because of the rope lighting, anyhow.

Hmmm.

Thinking out loud:
Actual measurements of laminate: 145.5"x61" (or 2.38:1... Very close to anamorphic 2.35. Too close to justify cutting laminate).
By 61" image height, corresponding width of 108.44 by 16:9 proportions.
Width of 108.44", by 16:9, corresponds to diagonal size of 124.6."
Height of 61", by 16:9, corresponds to diagonal size of 123".

Use the Quick Frame Profile of single-flanged 9005 for the OUTER FRAME:
-two height pieces of #9005 at 61" x 2;
-8 width pieces (4 pieces connected by 3 #9230 three-way connectors, each adding one inch to the length, along the north and south faces, each of length (145.5-3)/4=35.625") of 9005 at 35.625" x 8;
-four 9220 black corner connectors;
-six 9230 three-way connectors (as per "width pieces," above, to accommodate the vertical supports that will be BEHIND the level of the frame).

For the VERTICAL SUPPORTS:
-3 width pieces of smooth #9000 at 61" x 3;
-6 SHORT pieces of smooth #9000 to connect to the outer frame's three-way connectors, of minimal length, estimated 2.5" (need to check this), so 2.5" x 6;
-6 x #9220 black corner 2-way connectors to connect the short pieces of #9000 to the vertical supports BEHIND the plane of the outer frame.

This should give me an inner flange of single plane to which I can velcro the laminate, a space on the REAR aspect of the flange upon which I can mount the rope lighting, and a stable platform (the vertical supports) that should cause the screen to be 2.5"+1" (for the connector itself), or 3.5" off the wall. Hanging options from the vertical supports should abound.

Hmmm.

Maybe, just to stabilize MORE, the smooth 9000's should also be horizontally supported between themselves.
So,
-replace the 6 #9220 black corner 2-way connectors with 4 #9250 black 3-way corner connectors and 2 #9270 black 4-way corner connectors (for the central vertical support).
-order 4 #9000 @ 35.625" to horizontally support the vertical supports, all behind the plane of the frame's flange.

Should add more stability and a better platform for a surrounding rope light strip.
post #164 of 240
to the OP how did you create the black border? how does that attach?
post #165 of 240
Quote:
Originally Posted by igo4bmx View Post

to the OP how did you create the black border? how does that attach?

In the first post it says that he used 3" velvet black tape. I remember a guy on ebay selling 3" black velvet tape.
post #166 of 240
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjg100 View Post

In the first post it says that he used 3" velvet black tape. I remember a guy on ebay selling 3" black velvet tape.

That stuff *can* be somewhat expensive and hard to find. Personally, I went cheap with some 2" black duct tape. It is shiny, but if I keep the picture off of it, it's not a big deal to me, and cheap too!
post #167 of 240
Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

I just made one of these. 115" diagonal after masking. I also used a pair of aluminum french cleats from home depot to hang it and wilsonart designer white laminate.






Great looking screen "notnyt" ! I have a couple of questions:

How did you attach the DW laminate to your frame?

In one photo of your screen I see a thin glossy black frame, the in another photo of the screen mounted on your theater wall the black frame looks much wider. What did you use?

Thanks !
HDGTX
post #168 of 240
I think you are seeing the shadow from the flash, he used an aluminum frame and industrial velcro to attach. He then used velvet tape for the border, which is what you see in the finished shot.
post #169 of 240
Questions for the people that used the french cleats!!!

1. Did you put 1 on the top and 1 on the bottom of the frame?

2. Did you put only 1 or 2 on top? If you did, isn't the screen inclined or angled toward the bottom on the wall because of the cleats on the top frame?

3. What is size/length of the french cleats used?

4. Will a single 20-30" long french cleat on top be enough for a 120" wide frame?
post #170 of 240
Quote:
Originally Posted by seigneur_rayden View Post

Questions for the people that used the french cleats!!!

1. Did you put 1 on the top and 1 on the bottom of the frame?

One at or near the Top

Quote:


2. Did you put only 1 or 2 on top? If you did, isn't the screen inclined or angled toward the bottom on the wall because of the cleats on the top frame?

Always one should put a equal depth "Block" at/near the Bottom to effect a plumb vertical line

Quote:


3. What is size/length of the french cleats used?

4. Will a single 20-30" long french cleat on top be enough for a 120" wide frame?

The longer stated length will be more than adequate
post #171 of 240
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post


Always one should put a equal depth "Block" at/near the Bottom to effect a plumb vertical line

I am gonna use the aluminum french cleat sold at HD. What block size would be appropriate?
post #172 of 240
Thread Starter 
Pictures are back up on this thread. Thanks to all who have given positive comments about this frame build. Also enjoy seeing everyone elses versions of frames and screens. Mine is still hangin' in there and doing a wonderful job.
post #173 of 240
Has anyone used the 80/20 to basically make a picture frame type screen. So you would see the 80/20 on the front side and screw the formica to the back of the frame? I guess you couldn't have supports then if you went with a large size. And you would have to paint the frame black. Just an idea. Any thoughts
post #174 of 240
Has anybody built this frame and used it with a BOC? I saw a few posts back that someone might build one, and someone else with the same concern I have about the middle supports showing up on the surface. Love the frame and hoping it can work with the BOC. Thanks 20fan for posting and passing on some great info!
post #175 of 240
Quote:
Originally Posted by the_Seeker View Post

Has anybody built this frame and used it with a BOC? I saw a few posts back that someone might build one, and someone else with the same concern I have about the middle supports showing up on the surface. Love the frame and hoping it can work with the BOC. Thanks 20fan for posting and passing on some great info!

\\

No real concern here. At least as far as if certain things are considered and accommodated.
  1. Your Frame is square and true.
  2. You recess all internal structural supports at least 1/8" ...preferably 1/4" behind the leading edge of the Frame's perimeter.
  3. You stretch you fabric both taunt and equally from all points.

The BOC will, if stretched almost "Drum Head" tight, maintain enough clearance above the recessed 1/8" frame members that even with a slight bowing, there should be no contact between BOC and Aluminum.

To facilitate an easy Screen support system, consider using Poplar (wood) internal supports already sized to present a recess. Another advantage to that is the ability to interface a French Cleat system into the two off center spaced Vertical Wood supports. You don't need any more than two, and by bridging the two vertical supports with 1/2 of the 45 degree angled cut of a 1" x 6", it would allow for you to flush mount the Screen to the other 1/2 of the French Cleat on the wall. (Flush. ie: Hang directly on and against the wall surface with no space showing. )
post #176 of 240
thanks MM! I didn't even think about using something else as the mid supports. i'm now thinking about some flat aluminum I saw at home depot added to the back side... Thanks again
post #177 of 240
I'm wondering if you could use the twin flang tubes and hold BOC or some other cloth material in with spline like a screen door.

Any thoughts?
post #178 of 240
Bump!

I think this wonderful build thread deserves new
exposure, especially for new members to enjoy !

John
post #179 of 240
I have an aluminum frame for a sintra screen. Only place to have it is in front of the fireplace. Considering mounting it to ceiling with hinges to swing up like drawing in post #151 above. Paint back of frame white to match ceiling when up so less obvious.
post #180 of 240
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adult Beverage View Post

I have an aluminum frame for a sintra screen. Only place to have it is in front of the fireplace. Considering mounting it to ceiling with hinges to swing up like drawing in post #151 above. Paint back of frame white to match ceiling when up so less obvious.


Did you use the 8020 "Quick Frame" tubing?
How did you attach the Sintra board to the frame?
Any photos?

John
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