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My WA, DW, aluminum frame screen build - Page 7

post #181 of 240
6/27/10 at 1:45pm
I used the 8020 quick frame tubing that had the double flange on one side. I had it cut to length and had the edges of the flanges beveled at 45 degrees. I assembled it with the flanges pointing inward. The sintra slides into the flanges. Gasket material from 8020 then slides in to hold the sintra in place. Feels tight, but I think I will add a piece of alumium to the middle from top to bottom so that when the screen is folded up, the sintra won't sag and possibly fall out of the frame. Trying to locate hinges and latches. Wife wants the screen to fold up now, instead of just gone.

I'm trying to figure out how to attach the frame to the ceiling now. The frame is 1" square aluminum tubing. I will be anchoring it to a joist above. Looking for hinge options and latches that are clean and neat.
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post #182 of 240
7/6/10 at 2:12pm
Delivery from 80/20 arrived today. New connections, straight square tubing and two living hinges to hang from the ceiling. Still need to figure out latching parts when folded up. Once I take it all apart to swap out the corner connections for T connections to connect tubing extensions to ceiling, I will finally paint the sintra with the RS-MaxxMudd Retro recommend by MM. I will turn my garage into a temporary painting booth. Hopefully there'll be no mishaps reassembling the screen once it is painted. Also considering painting the frame back and sides white to match the ceiling when folded up and the front black for when it is down. Further justifiy buying the Wagner. At some point I will figure out a way to apply a black velvet border.
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post #183 of 240
10/27/10 at 5:49pm
Thread Starter 
Thought I'd brush the dust off this thread and bring this thread up to the front so those that do not look past the first few pages have a chance to view this information.

By the way my screen is still "hanging" in there and giving us a great way to view our favorite shows and enjoy the football season. HD is so awesome at 111" !
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post #184 of 240
10/28/10 at 6:23am
20fan,

Thanks again for starting and maintaining this thread - I am sure many have benefitted! I remain very pleased with my 16:9 wilsonart & aluminum screen.

In fact; I just bought some materials to start making some lightweight removable masking panels for the top and bottom. If this works out as intended, I will share.
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post #185 of 240
11/7/10 at 8:23am
Hi! I've made 2 screens with 4" timber and stretched blackout fabric previously and both went well... Now I want to try a Rear Projection screen to test if the installation type would suit the way we use the HT.

Has anybody tried a rear projection screen with this Aluminium 1" frame? I've found a UK supplier of this exact aluminium system including the right angles, T-shapes, 4 and 5 way connectors etc. and the rear projection screen material comes in 120 inch wide lengths - i'd love to try a 120" wide 2.37:1 ratio screen.

Would a 120" wide screen made with this 1 inch square aluminium tube sag in the middle without the horizontal supports? The screen needs to be held generally taught and i'm worried it might pull the frame into the middle...

Many thanks for any thoughts!
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post #186 of 240
11/21/10 at 8:15am
I just read through all seven pages of this thread. I am fairly certain I am going the 8020 route for a screen. My plan is to use the twin tab product (9025) and create a frame without center supports. I'll then laminate the Wilsonart DW to a 1/4" piece of plywood and slide that into the twin tabs to create the basic frame. For mounting on the wall I will use 2x4s or 2x6s covered in black velvet. I will bevel an angle along the length of each 2x, route a 1" channel on the back of each 2x and then cover each 2x with black velvet. I should then be able to frame the 8020 with the 2x border material and end up with a nice screen. A little extra work but it should be pretty bullet-proof. Anyone see any issues with that process? I have attached an Autocad pic showing a section view of my plans. What do you all think?

Matt

edit: After thinking about this a little more, I realize that I really don't even need the 8020 frame. Using the plywood backed laminate, I can simply route a groove or channel into the wood and just mount the panel with the wood. I guess if I want to make it more complicated and expensive I can use the aluminum framework, but other than that I don't really see a reason in doing so. Does anyone else?

 

8020 Screen Section.pdf 2.919921875k . file
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post #187 of 240
11/21/10 at 11:50am
I've used T-Slot alum. extrusion on my frame and it is very rigid much stronger than the wood plus its joined together with hidden screws which gives it a nice look. Take a look i got pics of it here. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1291094
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post #188 of 240
11/22/10 at 5:59am
Quote:
Originally Posted by snmhanson View Post

I just read through all seven pages of this thread. I am fairly certain I am going the 8020 route for a screen. My plan is to use the twin tab product (9025) and create a frame without center supports. I'll then laminate the Wilsonart DW to a 1/4" piece of plywood and slide that into the twin tabs to create the basic frame. For mounting on the wall I will use 2x4s or 2x6s covered in black velvet. I will bevel an angle along the length of each 2x, route a 1" channel on the back of each 2x and then cover each 2x with black velvet. I should then be able to frame the 8020 with the 2x border material and end up with a nice screen. A little extra work but it should be pretty bullet-proof. Anyone see any issues with that process? I have attached an Autocad pic showing a section view of my plans. What do you all think?

Matt

edit: After thinking about this a little more, I realize that I really don't even need the 8020 frame. Using the plywood backed laminate, I can simply route a groove or channel into the wood and just mount the panel with the wood. I guess if I want to make it more complicated and expensive I can use the aluminum framework, but other than that I don't really see a reason in doing so. Does anyone else?

If you have the woodworking skills above, I would also skip the 8020 frame. It just adds bulk for you to try to hide with the trim sketch you included. When you do your border trim make sure you bevel it away from the screen. Otherwise the screen has a shadowbox look.
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post #189 of 240
12/1/10 at 1:03pm
Just curious, has anyone tried painting the 8020 Quickframe? I understand that for most or all of the screens here the framework is not exposed so maybe it never was necessary. In any case, the framework is going to be exposed on my screen and I am thinking of painting it black so that I am not in a huge rush to get the velvet covered framework up. Would a general metal appropriate spray paint work? Automotive paint?

Thanks,

Matt
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post #190 of 240
12/2/10 at 5:53am
Quote:
Originally Posted by snmhanson View Post
Just curious, has anyone tried painting the 8020 Quickframe? I understand that for most or all of the screens here the framework is not exposed so maybe it never was necessary. In any case, the framework is going to be exposed on my screen and I am thinking of painting it black so that I am not in a huge rush to get the velvet covered framework up. Would a general metal appropriate spray paint work? Automotive paint?

Thanks,

Matt
I painted the back and sides of my frame white to match the ceiling. It's in front of a fireplace and folds up and latches to the ceiling when not in use. I wanted it to blend in more (WAF). I just used several light coats of white spray paint (Rustoleum, I think) and it looks fine. For the front around the screen I used a roll of black cloth hockey tape from a sporting goods store. $2.99 a roll. It's not velvet, but it works well enough I don't see any overshoot from the PJ.
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post #191 of 240
12/3/10 at 8:22am
Thanks for the reply. I picked up some flat black Rustoleum along with a can of auto primer. Figures I might as well prime before painting just to be safe (unless someone can tell me it isn't necessary). I am eventually going to build a frame to go around and over the 8020 frame but initially I just want to get it built and put up and the 8020 solution seemed like the easiest and quickest. Plus it wasn't all that expensive to boot. Just picked up the laminate yesterday so all I need now is time. I'll take pics and start a new build thread as it is going to be somewhat unique to the other builds here.

Thanks,

Matt
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post #192 of 240
12/4/10 at 12:33am
Matt

Please link your build thread here (or PM me the a link).

I'm building a DW 8020 screen in the next week or so as well. I'm also planning to (later) build a wooden frame that goes around/over the 8020 frame, and that will have my masking - I'll be doing without for the time being.

I have the DW already, currently the entire 5 x 12 sheet is up on my wall while we test out the sizing and make sure that 120 is indeed what we want. My 8020 is ordered, but hasn't yet arrived. I'd love another view of what others are doing, particularly when it's nearly identical to what I'm about to do!
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post #193 of 240
12/4/10 at 8:01am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Randocal View Post

Matt

Please link your build thread here (or PM me the a link).

I'm building a DW 8020 screen in the next week or so as well. I'm also planning to (later) build a wooden frame that goes around/over the 8020 frame, and that will have my masking - I'll be doing without for the time being.

I have the DW already, currently the entire 5 x 12 sheet is up on my wall while we test out the sizing and make sure that 120 is indeed what we want. My 8020 is ordered, but hasn't yet arrived. I'd love another view of what others are doing, particularly when it's nearly identical to what I'm about to do!

I'm still waiting for the Quickframe to come in. As soon as I get it I plan to get started, though the process will probably take a week. I already have the laminate as well. I anticipate the Quickframe to arrive early next week, as I ordered it last Friday. Once I get started I will start my build thread and provide a link to it. In the meantime I am finishing up some final tweaks on some speakers I had built.

Matt
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post #194 of 240
12/23/10 at 11:15am
Thread Starter 
It is awsome to see how many different versions of the 8020 framing method is being used by us all. Very happy this method is giving so many people another way to build their screens.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you all. Be Safe and enjoy the Holiday.
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post #195 of 240
12/23/10 at 11:58am
Hopefully this is ok to post here. If not, feel free to delete it.

I have a 8020 Quickframe "rectangle" that I don't need. I was going to use it for a screen but as it turns out I am now going a different direction and don't need it anymore. It is painted black with a few areas where the paint rubbed/scraped off. It could be touched up if appearance is important or just left if it is going to be hidden. The frame is 100% structurally sound. It is the twin tab frame and the outside dimensions are 97"x48" if I remember correctly. I can verify the dimensions if necessary, and it could be cut down if necessary. My cost was about $130 including shipping. I live about an hour East of Portland, OR (zip 98672) for shipping estimates. I could probably find another use for it, but if anyone is interested in buying it send me a PM and make an offer.

Matt
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post #196 of 240
2/28/11 at 11:22am
Mine has been up for over 2 years now, and I absolutely love it. I've since upgraded to an Epson 1080p projector. I never masked the edges with black, and I have no plans to do so.

I just love every couple of months spraying cleaner on my WilsonArt screen and wiping it clean.

I'm bumping this thread because I feel it is very useful.
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post #197 of 240
2/28/11 at 12:53pm
I originally didn't mask my edges either. Once I did I really regretted not doing it sooner. All I used was black cloth "hockey tape" from a sporting goods store. $2.99 a roll. It's not black velvet, but I don't notice any overshoot either.
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post #198 of 240
2/28/11 at 5:37pm
Do any of you use your computer through your projector? Do you find any hotspotting in the center of the screen when viewing white backgrounds (like webpages)?
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post #199 of 240
3/1/11 at 2:14pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterB123 View Post

Mine has been up for over 2 years now, and I absolutely love it. I've since upgraded to an Epson 1080p projector. I never masked the edges with black, and I have no plans to do so.

I just love every couple of months spraying cleaner on my WilsonArt screen and wiping it clean.

I'm bumping this thread because I feel it is very useful.

What type/brand of cleaner do you use? Any specific type of spray? I had just been using a dry microfiber cloth every month or so. Could probably use a good "washing".
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post #200 of 240
3/1/11 at 2:44pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by 20fan View Post

What type/brand of cleaner do you use? Any specific type of spray? I had just been using a dry microfiber cloth every month or so. Could probably use a good "washing".

The only cleaner I found that would consistently not streak, is Invisible Glass. I usually do a few cleanings in a row as the first cleaning will streak due to dirt in the cleaning solution. I do a wet circular clean, and than normally a vertical and than a horizontal with very little fluid.

I really should get the pics up of my 80/20 DW screen heh.
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post #201 of 240
3/2/11 at 2:34pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Protonus View Post

The only cleaner I found that would consistently not streak, is Invisible Glass. I usually do a few cleanings in a row as the first cleaning will streak due to dirt in the cleaning solution. I do a wet circular clean, and than normally a vertical and than a horizontal with very little fluid.

I really should get the pics up of my 80/20 DW screen heh.

What type of cloth do you use? Paper Towel, microfiber, or an old T-shirt ???
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post #202 of 240
3/3/11 at 6:46am
Quote:
Originally Posted by 20fan View Post

What type of cloth do you use? Paper Towel, microfiber, or an old T-shirt ???

Plain 'ole paper towel. I dust it between cleanings with a microfiber towel.
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post #203 of 240
3/9/11 at 12:45pm
DP Plex-All

Edit: BTW, I am going to try Stoner's Invisible Glass next to see how it compares. It's a little cheaper and easier to get.
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post #204 of 240
11/12/11 at 2:45pm
I wanted to pass along a thanks to the thread starters here on the Quickframe material on a WA screen.

I had been needing to redo the mounting for my "quite serviceable" WA screen for some time. I ordered a Quickframe to my spec, not unlike the OP's setup, and took a bit from sovremennik's post to use readily available (and cheap - about $4) permanent carpet tape to mount the WA to the frame.

I ordered on Friday and then left town for a couple day work trip and the drop ship Quickframe bits where here when I got back.

The Quickframe goes together like a breeze and is quite solid but light. Tracing the frame on the back of the WA with a pencil provides a tape guide. The whole thing took about 20 minutes to do and it's back on the wall.

Great stuff, Quickframe. I have always liked the WA screen but did not quite have a perfect frame - this stuff is it.

Thanks again.
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post #205 of 240
11/14/11 at 4:18pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by redeye42 View Post

I wanted to pass along a thanks to the thread starters here on the Quickframe material on a WA screen.

I had been needing to redo the mounting for my "quite serviceable" WA screen for some time. I ordered a Quickframe to my spec, not unlike the OP's setup, and took a bit from sovremennik's post to use readily available (and cheap - about $4) permanent carpet tape to mount the WA to the frame.

I ordered on Friday and then left town for a couple day work trip and the drop ship Quickframe bits where here when I got back.

The Quickframe goes together like a breeze and is quite solid but light. Tracing the frame on the back of the WA with a pencil provides a tape guide. The whole thing took about 20 minutes to do and it's back on the wall.

Great stuff, Quickframe. I have always liked the WA screen but did not quite have a perfect frame - this stuff is it.

Thanks again.



That is same situaton I was in when first debating on best method for my screen build. I wanted something sturdy and light weight that would not warp over time. This stuff was so easy to assemble, strong and light weight.
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post #206 of 240
11/19/11 at 7:19pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by snmhanson View Post

Hopefully this is ok to post here. If not, feel free to delete it.

I have a 8020 Quickframe "rectangle" that I don't need. I was going to use it for a screen but as it turns out I am now going a different direction and don't need it anymore. It is painted black with a few areas where the paint rubbed/scraped off. It could be touched up if appearance is important or just left if it is going to be hidden. The frame is 100% structurally sound. It is the twin tab frame and the outside dimensions are 97"x48" if I remember correctly. I can verify the dimensions if necessary, and it could be cut down if necessary. My cost was about $130 including shipping. I live about an hour East of Portland, OR (zip 98672) for shipping estimates. I could probably find another use for it, but if anyone is interested in buying it send me a PM and make an offer.

Matt

Confused.. 97x48"? that isnt a 16:9 ratio nor is it 2.35:1
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post #207 of 240
11/21/11 at 6:25am
Local store is quoting 12/1 as arrival for a piece of 48x96 laminate.... would Formica White be an acceptable substitute? I looked at a sample of each piece and while they both have a simlar matte finish, the Formica was a little whiter... not sure if it would be too white and cause any hot spotting.... any recommendations/comments would be appreciated.

Update: Not sure why they quoted 12/1, I got it 11/23! Now just waiting for 8020 material to arrive and I'll start assembling.
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post #208 of 240
11/27/11 at 12:03am
Hi everyone, just read through this thread because I bought myself a piece of WA DW laminate, and I wasn't too pleased with the image.

I am wondering if you guys have noticed any warps/ripples in the laminate surface that is attached to the aluminum fame? I tried mounting mine to a frame (not aluminum, but it was mounted diectly to the wall so it was plenty rigid) and also mounted it directly to the wall with a boat-load of gorilla tape. Both methods still got me ripples in the surface which were too noticable for me (especially during bright scenes). Which brings me to my next question:

Seems those ripples were noticeable because of the glossiness of the laminate surface, which caused hot spots. Has anybody else noticed hotspots on the wilsonart? Am I just using the wrong projector/mounting combo? (epson 3010 ceiling mount)

Thanks for any input. I hate to abandon the $120 screen I just bought, but so far my BOC screen still looks better to me.
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post #209 of 240
11/28/11 at 5:27am
Did you get the matte finish? I have no hotspots and no ripples. I mounted mine to an aluminum frame using Velcro. It's been 10 months now and zero issues.
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post #210 of 240
11/28/11 at 9:41am
Hmmm, I didn't think they had different finishes. I simply made sure it was the correct number (D354-60)

I wonder if I ordered the wrong thickness? Mine is a little over 1/32" thick. What are you guys using?
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