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Official Panasonic DMP-BD35/55 Owners Thread - Page 201

post #6001 of 14978
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIslander View Post

Scaling and interlacing/deinterlacing should be done in the device that does the better job with each of those tasks, don't you think? If your projector has a better deinterlacer, it would make sense to send 480i from the player. Of course, you'd need to use component for that. If the player does a better job, then let it output 480p.
.

Yes, which ever device has the better deinterlacer.

Yet in this case my PJ has a slight edge with the DVI input (over component), so it's 480p for me.
post #6002 of 14978
Quote:
Originally Posted by boylan13 View Post

Yeah, someone corrected my post later and said it's the monoprice 1.3B certified switch that works with the BD35/BD55 (and I think it sells for around $30).

-CB

As I said previously, this switch didn't pass 1080p for me when connected to the BD55.

Anyone got this to work with the latest firmware?

If not, which switch will work?
post #6003 of 14978
Quote:
Originally Posted by domino92024 View Post

Thanks. I need about a 15 foot long LAN cable, too. Any caveats there?

Nope. You're good up to 300ft (100m) of the CAT 5 or LAN cable..
post #6004 of 14978
In another area of the forum (Amps....), several members were experiencing many randomly-spaced short audio dropouts on several BluRay films using the BD35, but not when using the BD55.

Has anyone here noticed similar behavior?
post #6005 of 14978
Quote:
Originally Posted by lujan View Post

That may be the case but why did it correctly indicate "Dolby TrueHD" on the first AP movie? I'll try the third one tonight.

My recollections are a bit fuzzy here (I haven't watched them in a long time), but I believe that the DVD of Austin Powers 1 was 5.1 and that "The Spy Who Shagged Me" was one of the first DVDs with DD-EX . Perhaps that 5.1 and EX encoding was carried over for the BD versions, but I honestly don't know if TrueHD can carry an EX flag or not.

I don't know if you've already done this, but play "Spy Who Shagged Me" and check to see if the small "TrueHD" light on the receiver is illuminated while it's displaying "EX" . If it is, then you are getting TrueHD.
post #6006 of 14978
Quote:
Originally Posted by auskck View Post

The plasma is the first TV in 15 years I'm a long time projector person. The plasma replaced a bedroom aging 1024/768 projector on it's 3rd lamp. I just though I give the plasma a try. I do miss the 90" bedroom picture. When I save enough schiels I'll replace the 720P with a 1080P sending the 720P to the bedroom and relegate the plasma to the game/computer room
Hard to beat a 100" + screen.
PS Need a second BD35 currently shifting it between the 2 systems.

90" bedroom picture! Wow! What I could do with my porn collection with that! Since you have a 720p projector like me, what resolution do you set the BD35 at? I've been reading further down and it seems that some people are saying that you should let the conversions be done by either the projector or the 35, depending on which does a better job. That makes sense of course but I don't really understand it. If your projector is 720p why would you not want the player to be sent at 720p?

I've read down below here that it is better to use 480i or 480p on the player but I don't understand why. My player will be hooked up to my A/V receiver via HDMI for audio and video output and then from there to the projector, also via HDMI. Does this make a difference over using component as to what you set the player to? When you use component cables are you suppose to set things differently than when you use HDMI? Are you also suppose to change resolutions in the player when you insert a standard def disk as opposed to blu ray disks? I thought that would be done automatically based on the signal it receives from the disk itself. They got me all fouled up now on this stuff but since you have had experience with a 720p projector and the 35 you probably have experimented and know the answers.
post #6007 of 14978
Quote:
Originally Posted by Theatre Totter View Post

I am getting a BD55 soon. Does anyone know how it's upconverting (of old DVDs) compares to my old Panny S77?

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/cgi-b...h&articles=123


In case anybody else needs to know, I'll answer my own question:

I got my BD55 yesterday and did a comparison with one old DVD (Transporter) in the two machines and found them to be of equivalent quality in terms of upscaling.
post #6008 of 14978
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank_K View Post

In another area of the forum (Amps....), several members were experiencing many randomly-spaced short audio dropouts on several BluRay films using the BD35, but not when using the BD55.

Has anyone here noticed similar behavior?

I have both and have never experienced drops with either one.

S~
post #6009 of 14978
Quote:
Originally Posted by muttlieb View Post

I don't mean to bash the BD35. Overall, for the majority of content, I think it's got good pq. Most of the problems are with older, SD TV based content that is pretty poor to begin with. I see a lot of deinterlacing artifacts, and some horrible moire patterns.

Out of curiosity, have you tried switching to the player's "video" deinterlacing mode? Sometimes that does a better job with video-based or poorly-flagged material.
post #6010 of 14978
Quote:
Originally Posted by milacqua View Post

I've been reading further down and it seems that some people are saying that you should let the conversions be done by either the projector or the 35, depending on which does a better job. That makes sense of course but I don't really understand it. If your projector is 720p why would you not want the player to be sent at 720p?

When you play a blu-ray, it's 1080, that has to be converted (scaled) to 720p for your PJ to display it. Both your PJ and BD35 have scalers, yet some scalers are better than others so for some, it's worth trying it both ways (letting the 35 scale 1080 to 720 and sending that to the PJ or letting the PJ scale it by sending 1080 to the PJ).

With DVD it's 480, so same thing....either device will have to scale it to 720p.

For me, I think it's simpler to keep the BD35 set to your native res (in your case 720), then you don't have to worry about double scaling happening (i.e. if you set the 35 to output 1080, then play a SD DVD, it will scale that to 1080 and your PJ would have to scale back down to 720, double scaling-not good).
post #6011 of 14978
Quote:
Originally Posted by milacqua View Post

90" bedroom picture! Wow! What I could do with my porn collection with that! Since you have a 720p projector like me, what resolution do you set the BD35 at? I've been reading further down and it seems that some people are saying that you should let the conversions be done by either the projector or the 35, depending on which does a better job. That makes sense of course but I don't really understand it. If your projector is 720p why would you not want the player to be sent at 720p?

I've read down below here that it is better to use 480i or 480p on the player but I don't understand why. My player will be hooked up to my A/V receiver via HDMI for audio and video output and then from there to the projector, also via HDMI. Does this make a difference over using component as to what you set the player to? When you use component cables are you suppose to set things differently than when you use HDMI? Are you also suppose to change resolutions in the player when you insert a standard def disk as opposed to blu ray disks? I thought that would be done automatically based on the signal it receives from the disk itself. They got me all fouled up now on this stuff but since you have had experience with a 720p projector and the 35 you probably have experimented and know the answers.

No you don't change the video setting for the disk itself. The setting is for the sync between your BD35 and your 720P projector.
If the BD35 set to auto it will try 1080P first, if connected through an a/v the handshake(HDCP) doesn't always work so BD35 doesn't down res to 1080I then 720P etc, you wind up with blank or blue screen.
I don't run Video through a/v since it is a legacy Onkyo (non-HDMI) box
For your application IMO I would hard set the BD35 to 720P/1080I might want to check to see if there is any difference. IMO component or HDMI would make no difference at 720P. I only have HDMI cable to the projector. All my input devices are set to output 720P keeps it simple, plus that's the best the projector can handle.
post #6012 of 14978
Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaman View Post

When you play a blu-ray, it's 1080, that has to be converted (scaled) to 720p for your PJ to display it. Both your PJ and BD35 have scalers, yet some scalers are better than others so for some, it's worth trying it both ways (letting the 35 scale 1080 to 720 and sending that to the PJ or letting the PJ scale it by sending 1080 to the PJ).

With DVD it's 480, so same thing....either device will have to scale it to 720p.

For me, I think it's simpler to keep the BD35 set to your native res (in your case 720), then you don't have to worry about double scaling happening (i.e. if you set the 35 to output 1080, then play a SD DVD, it will scale that to 1080 and your PJ would have to scale back down to 720, double scaling-not good).

Your are almost correct, Most 720P projectors will only handle up to 1080I input signal not 1080P (black or blue death screen)
post #6013 of 14978
That's why I wrote 1080 w/o the 'I' or 'P' at the end.
post #6014 of 14978
Son of networking problems....

So I am still having problems getting the BD35 onto the net. The router has the latest firmware, and has been reset. It shows the BD player on its tables. And the BD player gets DNS and IP addresses from the router. Oh yes, I put in a formatted SD card.

No matter what I do, tut the connection test fails. By I mean that "ET can't phone home". The unit some stuck in the local network. So I am looking for ways to hep it reach out to the net (for firmware updates and BD live material).

I have tried setting a static IP. I have used both the DNS supplied by the router and used the openDNS settings suggested earlier by another helpful forum post. No such luck.


Because the unit returns IP addresses and DNS settings dynamically (when I reset the unit or the router these tables repopulate) I don't think the problem is hardware (ie. does not seem like the BD player has a problem, and not the cabling or the router. I suspect it is either something more advanced I need to do at the router (set a DMZ zone? add some kind of port request?) or at the BD player (proxy server maybe?).

Can any networking gurus throw out some suggestions?
post #6015 of 14978
yamaha rxv 663 is spec'd to pass 1080p/24p. when i plug the player directly into the tv it works just fine. what gives
post #6016 of 14978
Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryChanin View Post

Hi Chris,

You seem to be making the case that the originally documented DTS Speaker Re-mapping feature has been significantly watered down to a totally different function.

As I understand the DTS Speaker Re-mapping function, it represents a process whereby a user tells a DTS decoder which 7.1 physical layouts most closely resembles his/her layout. Then the decoder examines disc meta data and recalculates the delays and speaker levels to electronically reposition the speakers thereby recreating the acoustic environment of the original mixing layout.

In contrast, if I am interpreting the formulas correctly, this Panasonic process, which you seem to think is a newly defined "speaker re-mapping" process, merely attenuates the surround signals in a 5.1 DTS-HD signal and duplicates them at lower levels in the four surround speakers making a pseudo 7.1. This approach appears to be merely a crude method to add surround back channels, but it totally ignores the original intent of DTS Speaker Re-mapping which is to electronically recreate the mixing layout for 7.1 channel mixes.

The objectives of these two processes are so completely different that it is extremely difficult to accept your suggestion that this "amplification" of 5.1 to 7.1 now represents a newly defined the DTS Speaker Re-mapping feature.

Larry

Larry.... you are correct... remapping is used to take 7.1 soundtracks and remap them for 5.1 playback or one of the other 7.1 speaker configurations or the other way around... it doesn't work the other way around.
post #6017 of 14978
The same questions keep coming up about the audio capabilities and settings for these two players. So, I thought it might be helpful to get the basic audio information in one place. I have a BD55 set up for 5.1 analog and digital coax. I don’t have an HDMI capable receiver. Please don’t hesitate to note any alternatives (or errors!) in posts or by PM.

There are really only a handful of audio settings that you need to change in most cases.

This post is organized by the three connection types – HDMI, Optical/Coax, and Analog. There are some notes about other settings and buttons on the remote at the end.

HDMI

You can use these settings if you have a receiver that decodes TrueHD and dts-MA:

HDMI Audio Output = ON (p32)
Digital Audio Outputs (p31)
-DD = Bitstream
-DTS = Bitstream
-BD-Video Secondary Audio = OFF

The player will send all encoded audio tracks to your receiver for decoding. Uncompressed PCM tracks will be sent as PCM. You will not be able to listen to secondary audio for menu clicks or for PIP commentaries. To access secondary audio, you need to change the player set-up. It will then use a lossy track instead of the lossless one, at least when secondary audio is actually present. (The player actually decodes the track, mixes in secondary audio, and re-encodes it in a lossy format.)

Use these settings if you want the player to do the decoding:

HDMI Audio Output = ON (p32)
Digital Audio Outputs/(p31)
-DD = PCM
-DTS = PCM
-BD-Video Secondary Audio = OFF

The only change is PCM instead of bitstream. The player will decode whatever track you play and send the resulting multi-channel PCM to your receiver. You will not be able to listen to secondary audio for menu clicks or for PIP commentaries. To access secondary audio, you need to change the player set-up. It will then use a lossy track instead of the lossless one, at least when secondary audio is present.


OPTICAL and COAX (BD55)

HDMI Audio Output = OFF (p32)
Digital Audio Outputs (p31)
-DD = Bitstream
-DTS = Bitstream
-BD-Video Secondary Audio = ON

The manual has warnings in several different places about how setting HDMI Audio to ON can produce undesired results for non-HDMI audio outputs. The HDMI handshake with a TV, for example, may produce two channel downmixes elsewhere. Personally, I’ve tried all sorts of combinations and everything has worked as expected. However, the manual still advises setting HDMI Audio to OFF.

Optical and coax don’t support the new codecs. When you play a DTS-HD track, the player outputs the DTS core instead. Select a TrueHD track, and you get a companion DD 5.1 track. The larger size of Blu-ray discs means the legacy DD and DTS versions can be encoded at high bit rates. So, they usually sound better than the same tracks encoded at lower bit rates on DVD.

Do not set the Digital Audio Outputs to PCM. Optical and coax are limited to two channels of PCM. You’ll end up with a stereo downmix with the PCM setting. Some discs have 5.1 or 7.1 PCM tracks. These will also be downmixed to stereo when fed over optical or coax. To get multi-channel, you need to play a Dolby or DTS track instead of PCM. There are a small number of discs with multi-channel PCM, but no 5.1 DD or DTS tracks. Those discs will be a problem for people using optical or coax as their only connection.

You can leave Secondary Audio turned ON because you are only getting a lossy track anyway. The player will mix in menu clicks and PIP commentary audio and re-encode everything for bitstream output.

btw, the Digital Audio Output settings on p31 control the HDMI, optical, and coax outputs. That means you can’t have different settings for HDMI and optical or coax.


ANALOG (BD55)

With the BD35, you must use HDMI to get lossless audio. If your receiver lacks HDMI, you can still get lossless with the BD55’s analog outputs.

HDMI Audio Output = OFF (p32)
Analog Audio Output (p32)
For a 5.1 system, select 2ch (Downmix) + 5.1 ch
For a 7.1 system, select 7.1 ch
BD-Video Secondary Audio = OFF (p31).

Unlike some players, the Digital Audio Output settings do not affect analog decoding and they can be set to either PCM or bitstream. I set mine to bitstream because I use analog for BDs and coax for DVDs.

There are no settings to enable analog output. The player will decode and process whatever track you play for output over analog. If you have configured the player for 2ch + 5.1 ch, then 7.1 discs will be downmixed to 5.1.

For lossless, you need to turn off Secondary Audio. As with HDMI, the player switches to a lossy version of the track when secondary audio is present.

The analog set-up is a bit more involved and I won’t go into all of the details in this post. Basically, you need to run analog cables from the player to your receiver. You need to do speaker set-ups in the player. And, you need to boost the subwoofer output in the receiver or at the sub itself.

The Analog Audio Output tells the player whether you have a 5.1 or 7.1 system. That’s how the player knows to downmix 7.1 discs to 5.1 so that no channels are lost. There are six outputs on the back of the player for the speaker outputs in a 5.1 system. If you have a 7.1 system, the BD55 re-assigns the two outputs that are normally used for analog stereo to the rear surround speakers.

Next, you need define your speaker sizes and their distances from the sweet spot. The speaker settings are on p34. With digital audio, all of the processing associated with your speaker settings is done in the receiver. But, with analog, it has to be done in the player before the digital to analog conversion. Aside from output levels, the receiver speaker settings are ignored when you are using analog.

You can adjust speaker volumes. They can be lowered, not raised, and the rear speakers in a 7.1 system cannot be adjusted at all. The volume settings are a pain because you don’t hear the levels change. You have to run the Test tones, make the changes during the test, click Complete, exit set-up, and then actually play a disc to hear the results of your changes. Also, there’s no test tone for the sub.

LFE and redirected bass are output 10db-15db low from all players. The sub needs to be boosted in your receiver to get the proper bass response. Check your receiver manual for how/whether it handles the needed analog subwoofer boost.

As noted with optical/coax, the manual has warnings in several different places about how setting HDMI Audio to ON can produce undesired results for non-HDMI audio outputs. The HDMI handshake with a TV, for example, may produce two channel downmixes elsewhere. I’ve tried all sorts of combinations and everything has worked as expected. However, the manual still advises setting HDMI Audio to OFF.


OTHER AUDIO SETTINGS

PCM Down Conversion (p31)
Some receivers can’t handle audio with a 96 kHz sampling rate. Change this setting to ON if you have such a receiver. This won’t come in to play very often, if ever.

Downmix (p31)
This will almost never matter. It controls how multi-channel recordings are downmixed to stereo for PCM output. The default setting is Stereo. If your receiver has ProLogic or other such surround DSPs, then change it to Surround Encoded. Surround is the right setting for most systems.


AUDIO BUTTONS ON THE REMOTE

Audio (p20)
This button is sort of hidden to the right of the 0 on the number pad. It shows an on screen display of the track being played. The arrows will scroll through the other available choices. But, you can’t see a list. Arrowing through the choices changes them as you go.

Display (pp28-29)
“Disc / Signal Type” has details about the video and audio being played, including the secondary audio track. If there are audio choices, you can make changes here as well.

The “Audio” screen allows you to select various sound effects modes and a Dialog Enhancer that increases the volume of the center channel.

Secondary Audio (p21)
If you have set BD-Video Secondary Audio to ON, this button turns it off for PIP commentaries (but not menu clicks) on the fly. I’m not sure why that would ever be needed. But, that’s what it does.


FOOTNOTES ABOUT AUDIO

p8 of the manual has an excellent chart showing what kind of audio will be output from each type of connector based on the track being played, along with how the outputs change depending on whether secondary audio is on or off.

That chart and the text on the next two pages seem to suggest that your system has to be configured for 7.1 to get lossless analog audio. But, that doesn’t make any sense and appears to be another example of a poorly written manual.

Secondary audio pretty much has to be off in order to make sure you are getting lossless decoding. The manual never says a lossy track is substituted when secondary audio is on, but Panasonic indicated as much in a December 2008 email to Chris Boylan of Big Picture Big Sound. Chris says it is his understanding that the player will use the lossless track unless there is actually secondary audio in the stream (menu sounds or PIP commentary on an extra). Then, it will switch to the lossy version. So, it will switch back and forth.

Unlike some players, the analog and digital outputs operate simultaneously and independently. You can set the player up to decode and output lossless tracks over analog and to bitstream lossy tracks over optical or coax at the same time. This is handy for comparing the two outputs. More importantly, it enables you to use digital for DVD playback without needing to change the player set-up.

EDITS
13Dec08: Clarifies how secondary audio affects lossless processing.
post #6018 of 14978
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rolls-Royce View Post

Out of curiosity, have you tried switching to the player's "video" deinterlacing mode? Sometimes that does a better job with video-based or poorly-flagged material.

That seems to have solved the problem. I knew about the setting and thought I had tried it, but I guess not. I take back everything bad I said about the players SD DVD pq. Thanks for the help.
post #6019 of 14978
Dude, I'm not reading all of that!
post #6020 of 14978
Quote:
Originally Posted by huffphil View Post

Just got my new 35 and was very excited to hook it up and get great 1080P video and lossless audio, but I am having a problem I can't figure out. Here is my setup:
35 connected via HDMI to my receiver (Pioneer Elite 82)
HDMI out to my TV (Sony KDS-A3000)

Before I put in my first Blu Ray disk I set up the player out output the audio as PCM. I figured that would let the player do the decoding of the lossless audio since my receiver is only HDMI verison 1.2. I then had the video resolution set to Auto - figuring 1080P would be fine.

When I put in the first disk, it would cut out video and audio and the receiver would go back and forth from PCM to just stereo and the HDMI light would keep flashing. This was on the menu of any disk I put in. I figured it may be a problem with my very old HDMI cable I was using. I tried to change the setting to see if I could get it to work. I went to video and set the HDMI out to 1080I and it was the same problem. I then changed it to 720P and it works perfectly. Played a whole movie.

I ordered a new HDMI version 1.3 cable from Monoprice, figuring that the cable was the culprit, but I just hooked it up and I have the same problem. I then hooked the player up directly to my TV to check the cable and it displayed the 1080P/24P video flawlessly, so it looks like my problem is the receiver. What should I do to solve this problem?

In my mind it looks like I have a choice between high quality video and lower quality audio, or high quality audio and lower quality video. This should not be a choice I should have to make. Any suggestions?

Did you go into the menu of your receiver and change its input and output to 1080p 24? and can you do that with your receiver? if you can't, you may just have to use the direct to the TV connection for the video
post #6021 of 14978
Quote:
Originally Posted by milacqua View Post

90" bedroom picture! Wow! What I could do with my porn collection with that!

Do tell, please.
post #6022 of 14978
Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Mathis View Post

Dude, I'm not reading all of that!

??
post #6023 of 14978
Quote:
Originally Posted by 42inplasma View Post

any answer?

Yes there are a variety of resolution settings, auto works best when the player is connected directly to the display (TV, PJ) many times not so much when used directly into the receiver, you can set contrast, brightness, gamma, sharpness, etc, you can also set the black level to normal or enhanced (RGB 0-255)
post #6024 of 14978
This post should be put in an FAQ or placed somewhere prominent.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...9#post15291499
post #6025 of 14978
I've had a Toshiba HD-A2 for a year-and-a-half. It was Toshiba's entry-level HD DVD player at the time. I was very pleasantly surprised at the PQ it puts out. Rich, detailed HD images. My plasma TV is non-1080p.

I've had my BD-35 for a few days, and I've watched a few different Blu-ray discs. (Spiderman 3, Trans Siberia, The Devil Wears Prada, Dave Matthews Live at Radio City) I realize the importance of good source material, but the PQ of the BD-35 has been disappointing compared to my HD DVD player. The Devil Wears Prada looked pretty good, but overall, images are softer, noticeably less sharp, with less contrast and colour saturation. Both players go to my AVR via HDMI and then to my TV via HDMI. There is no difference at all in set-up.

Is there any reason why this would happen? It certainly could be that all these discs were not good transfers - I have seen a few HD DVDs that were not good transfers, either. Even in The Devil Wears Prada, which looked good, the PQ was not as sharp or detailed as the best HD DVDs I've seen. Spiderman 3 looked a bit flat. I'm going to try to get "Batman Begins" next week. The HD DVD version was excellent - does anyone know how the Blu-ray version is?
post #6026 of 14978
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaranddeeman View Post

Watched The Dark Knight just now. I was surprised with the variable aspect ratio. At times it is 2.40:1 and the next it is 1.85:1.
What would constant height screen (anamorphic lens) folks do with this? Get off their dear lens and watch?

While I can't help you with the anamorphic lens question.....I have read that this change in aspect ratio was due to the fact that some scenes were filmed in IMAX and the rest in 35mm. I think it was in the review that is on this site as a matter of fact....anyway - just passing it along.

DAN
post #6027 of 14978
Folks,
I recently received my DMP-BD35 and was disappointed to find out that it did not play DivX encoded discs. I was under the (mis)impression that it did due to a lot of reviews and forums I had been reading in on this player. Turns out it was the UK version! Dang! Anyways, I think this may have been asked before but is there a hack to enable this type of decoding in the firmware? Has anyone tried say flashing the firmware with the UK version with success? Seems like it might make your player PAL format Anyways, not sure if there are other DMP-BD35 owners pining for DivX but I would be interested to hear if anyone has found or created a solution.
Otherwise I will have to save up yet again, for a DMP-BD55. Maybe I'll sell my new BD35 here!

Cheers!
~Gilkissin
post #6028 of 14978
For those who only need to connect their player to the Ethernet occasionally (updates, special BD Live) this is a method proposed if you have a XP/Vista laptop with a wireless connection to your home network and a physical Ethernet port. It is adopted from someone who uses it for an XBOX.

1- With your laptop connected wirelessly to your network access point, connect the wired network connection on your laptop to the wired connection port of the Blu-ray player with any Ethernet cable.

2- Open the Network Connections list (Start> Connect to> Show All Connections, or My Computer > My Network Places > View Network Connections)

3- Right click your Wireless Network Connection and choose Properties from the list.

4-On Advanced tab, check the box to “Allow other network users to connect through this computers Internet connection.” See attached picture.

5- In the Home Networking Connection dropdown list choose “Local Area Connection”.

6- Uncheck the box to “Allow other network users to control or disable the shared Internet connection”.


Your player should now be using your laptop's connection and updating or searching.


NOTE this is not the method where the Wireless and LAN connections are "bridged" which requires a "crossover cable." Use a normal Cat5 before trying a crossover if the normal does not work; it may be a function of your specific HW components.. The bridge method sometimes shows a disconnect from wireless which has to be "repaired;" and also requires everything to be undone in order to use the direct port for connecting the laptop. The above method seems simpler but I have not tried it yet.
LL
post #6029 of 14978
Quote:
Originally Posted by kezug View Post

I am not so impressed with the upconversion of SD DVD's. Are we being honest on this board that this is a good upconverting player?

I believe screen size my be a factor in what some of the reports have been regarding the BD35 upconverting capability PQ.

On a 42" or less, my BD35, BD30, BD-P1200 & HD-A35 look about equal.
On 60"-100", the BD-P1200 wins hands down. Too bad this player has blu-ray playback issues as I would keep it as my main BD/upconverting player instead of having 3 players for my HT room.
post #6030 of 14978
Thanks BIslander for the detailed audio post. Your post should be printed in the Panasonic User Manual. Going forward, I think anyone with questions about audio settings should be referred to post #6017 on page 201.
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