Pilgrim's Electric Boogaloo - v2.0

Hey Dave with a thread name like that you need a logo here's a couple for you to choose from

http://omimages.peakhourmusic.com/pr...ogaloo_opt.jpg

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x..._remixes-1.jpg

http://www.planetrocka.co.uk/ElectricBoogalooLink.gif

http://www.teleport-city.com/movies/...in2-781565.jpg <----My favorite

Welcome back to the madness...

Welcome back, Dave. I knew you couldn't stay away for long...

PS: I like that cool cardboard door in the first photo. Did the builder charge extra for it?

;-)

CJ

My HT is almost the same size. I went with Quietrock in order to save precious inches on the sides, and am glad I did because it is tight with 4 Berks. I don't often have squeez back behind the seats, but when I do every inch counts, and they are not particularly stable so crawling over them could be interesting.

You may be more upscale than me on the audio, but I went with a 7.1 system (actually wired for 7.2, but that seems overkill). For the front 3 I used the Axiom M22s (bookshelf speakers). I had planned on using towers but the Axiom guy talked me out of it. The sound is great and that may be an alternative to low profile speakers. The axiom guy also tried to talk me into just a 5.1 system given the size of the room, but I did not listen.

I also went with a square stage with an arc extending out on the bottom level of the stage. I think it makes the small space look more flashy, in a good way. I had planned on a matching arc on the ceiling, but ended up scrapping that idea because I was worried about making the ceiling look too low visually. I ended up with a tray ceiling in the middle of the room due to some miscommunication with the contractor who was renovating my basement, but I like the tray ceiling and in retrospect would have liked the ceiling arch -- I have three spots along there now, so I won't be doing any retrofitting.

My screen is a 50" high 2.37 CIH. I had an anamorphic lens but because of the screen size and short throw, the throw ratio was too low to use the lens, so I sold it and now zoom. My miscalc was due to using 1.78 numbers when determining the ratio, and you are too smart to do that, but still beware the small ratio.

If the door placement requires a smaller screen than you want, perhaps you could put the screen on a slide rail so that you can move it to the side when you need to enter/exit the room. Then your stage and screen would be centered across the room during viewing.

If your target date is 2009, then you still should finish ahead of Logan. I sub'd too much out to qualify as a DIY, so I just don't feel right about calling him my beeyatch, but I am happy to watch you do it.

Dave I like the curve, but like you were with mine I'm impartial

The foreign made berks numbers begin with 13's dont lock together, they simply are placed next to each other. The us made 45's lock in together. I know av noob means about stability, if the chair is reclined and the person sitting in them leans foward and puts all their weight onto the foot rest, the chair is going to lean foward with them. My daughter was waking up from a movie and did this, luckily Dad was there to save the day

Now, I've been thinking Dave and I'm sure you have tossed this around in your head more than a couple of times but, if I had the same space to work with and I were putting 1 row of seating, I think I would put the seating at the wall which is right of the door when you come in. I would either have the door swing out or move down the door that wall a couple of feet, shouldn't be more than a couple of hours work to reframe that door opening. 13' is plenty of space for 4 berks 13175 or something along that line, still leaves over 1' at each side even more if you do a love seat in the center. Then you could do a bigger screen, at least 120"-130" diag. at 15' or there abouts you'll be golden. Just my 2 cents... Something else to think about, sorry

I wanted Hubbardton Forge sconces also but at the prices they want its crazy they do have some of the coolest looking ones by far

Those are sweeeeeeet... man they would look awesome in my room as well but 6 would cost more than my screen and projector combined. Good luck getting that past the finance committe there

Very nice Dave . I will keep on reading and watching your progress .

Regards, Dave (from Holland)

Enough to do for you then . Sometimes you have to make priorities and / or wise descisions. I think you made that decisions. Keep us posted when you do start and good luck with the 3500 slide photographs

Dave

and the madness continues... I'm subscribed! Welcome back, not that you ever really left!

Judson

Very nice column design Dave.

Those will look great. Due a search for specific color and you might find choices your looking for.

You are always welcome. I know it's tough to be in and stay in design phase. I was originally gonna wait a year and a half before I started, that lasted 6 months. The nice thing is that you are doing a great job in planning everything.

It looks like you have a great start. Although I will never forgive you for posting those sconces up. Man, those are sweet. I may now have to make my own sconces, and it will be all your fault.

Looking at your plans.. you seem to be planning one row of 4.

You'd probably want to wire yours in parallel, assuming one shaker per seat. Basically, you'd want to daisy chain the red terminals and daisy chain the black terminals.

Red wire -> red terminal on first shaker -> red terminal on second -> red terminal on third -> red terminal on fourth.

Black wire -> black terminal on first shaker -> black terminal on second -> black terminal on third -> black terminal on fourth.

This will give you an overall impedance of 4ohm, which is perfect for most of the subwoofer amps on parts express. I'd probably consider the 240W Dayton amp in this case.

Or more simply:

red wire -> wall plate red terminal

black wire -> wall plate black terminal

And hook up a speaker wire to each shaker from the wall plate. (or splice the wires instead of using a wall plate)