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Pilgrim's Electric Boogaloo - v2.0

post #1 of 195
Thread Starter 
Dear readers - this thread is a mess. The first hundred posts or so reflect my thought process after selling my old house w/HT and planning a HT in the new one. I eventually scrapped these plans (that room became my gym). A bunch of ideas were kicked around, and an off topic landscaping project is being documented starting around post #78 (plans), then picking up again around post #93. Final Landscaping pics are here Post #126

Eventually, by Post #132 I realize I have a way to fund the will be a multipurpose room, which currently is the kids playroom, and will stay that way (by day) for the next few years (my kids are 3 & 6 in 2012).

Sorry for the mess.
Regards, the management.
post #2 of 195
Thread Starter 
Equipment:

PJ - Epson 8350 - decided to go for lumens and bang for your buck. 3D will have to wait.
Screen - On order (2/27/12) - Retractable SeymourAV Centerstage 120.5" Diagnol; 16:9 AT screen.
Speakers - Monitor Audio in-walls, gold for the center, bronze for L+R, cpc 120's for surrounds (5.1 only) - I know a match set up front would have had ideal timbre match, but I got a deal on ebay and thought it might be nice to put their top of the line speaker in for the center channel. I can always change them if I determine its a problem
Sub - Rythmik 12incher
Receiver - Denon 1712 (again, bang for the buck with the better version of Audessy)
Sources - PS3, FIOS box
Remote - Harmony 900
Treatments - to be determined
post #3 of 195
Thread Starter 
Reserved.
post #4 of 195
Thread Starter 
OLD Planning stuff



Links to threads created to address specific issues:

Domed Star Ceiling:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post16739607
Sump pumps:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1093680

Links to threads I didn't create but I found useful:
Good set of star ceiling build pics
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...&postcount=130
HVAC Dead vents
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1109114
More HVAC talk:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...php?p=15668807
Room within a room construction"
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=787307
OSB vs Drywall
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&highlight=osb
post #5 of 195
post #6 of 195
Welcome back, Dave. I knew you couldn't stay away for long...

PS: I like that cool cardboard door in the first photo. Did the builder charge extra for it?

;-)

CJ
post #7 of 195
Thread Starter 
First design issue:

The screen will be offset by the door - do I go for a marquee that is centered to the room, or centered to the screen. The soffit will inset to the screen area on the right side of the front wall, it won't come out all the way on the left side (will end over the door.


Sketchup is a great tool. I think the solution is to come down under the soffit. The screen is 2.35, so height isn't a big issue, and the room is tall. So what do people like better, an arch

or a curve?


The colors are just to make it pop, so ignore those. I had the curve in the last one, and liked it. Would be willing to mix it up. Or entertain different ideas. I guess I'd go with a square stage with the arch, and mirror the curve in the stage in that option.
post #8 of 195
My HT is almost the same size. I went with Quietrock in order to save precious inches on the sides, and am glad I did because it is tight with 4 Berks. I don't often have squeez back behind the seats, but when I do every inch counts, and they are not particularly stable so crawling over them could be interesting.

You may be more upscale than me on the audio, but I went with a 7.1 system (actually wired for 7.2, but that seems overkill). For the front 3 I used the Axiom M22s (bookshelf speakers). I had planned on using towers but the Axiom guy talked me out of it. The sound is great and that may be an alternative to low profile speakers. The axiom guy also tried to talk me into just a 5.1 system given the size of the room, but I did not listen.

I also went with a square stage with an arc extending out on the bottom level of the stage. I think it makes the small space look more flashy, in a good way. I had planned on a matching arc on the ceiling, but ended up scrapping that idea because I was worried about making the ceiling look too low visually. I ended up with a tray ceiling in the middle of the room due to some miscommunication with the contractor who was renovating my basement, but I like the tray ceiling and in retrospect would have liked the ceiling arch -- I have three spots along there now, so I won't be doing any retrofitting.

My screen is a 50" high 2.37 CIH. I had an anamorphic lens but because of the screen size and short throw, the throw ratio was too low to use the lens, so I sold it and now zoom. My miscalc was due to using 1.78 numbers when determining the ratio, and you are too smart to do that, but still beware the small ratio.

If the door placement requires a smaller screen than you want, perhaps you could put the screen on a slide rail so that you can move it to the side when you need to enter/exit the room. Then your stage and screen would be centered across the room during viewing.

If your target date is 2009, then you still should finish ahead of Logan. I sub'd too much out to qualify as a DIY, so I just don't feel right about calling him my beeyatch, but I am happy to watch you do it.
post #9 of 195
Thread Starter 
Interesting about stability on your berks. How do they come apart? I know they are modular, can you just slide one out? The chairs will be in the way of the electrical panel, and I was thinking I'd just pull one out when needed.

I *could* move the door. And probably would, but it has poor WAF. I would probably fight the moving the door fight before I would design a screen that has to be moved to enter and leave the HT. But I did think about that, or a drop screen. Not worth it. Move seats closer if I want it to be more immersive.

That's a pretty big screen you got for a small room. Nice one!

I might start in 2009 - Finishing is another story. No need to poke the Logan bear (yet).
post #10 of 195
Dave I like the curve, but like you were with mine I'm impartial

The foreign made berks numbers begin with 13's dont lock together, they simply are placed next to each other. The us made 45's lock in together. I know av noob means about stability, if the chair is reclined and the person sitting in them leans foward and puts all their weight onto the foot rest, the chair is going to lean foward with them. My daughter was waking up from a movie and did this, luckily Dad was there to save the day

Now, I've been thinking Dave and I'm sure you have tossed this around in your head more than a couple of times but, if I had the same space to work with and I were putting 1 row of seating, I think I would put the seating at the wall which is right of the door when you come in. I would either have the door swing out or move down the door that wall a couple of feet, shouldn't be more than a couple of hours work to reframe that door opening. 13' is plenty of space for 4 berks 13175 or something along that line, still leaves over 1' at each side even more if you do a love seat in the center. Then you could do a bigger screen, at least 120"-130" diag. at 15' or there abouts you'll be golden. Just my 2 cents... Something else to think about, sorry
post #11 of 195
Thread Starter 
Oman - Yeah, that was my original plan, but throw and the seating had me re-thinking it. I was using Berks 090 as baseline chair, but I have seen your posts about your seats, and they are quite a bit more narrow. Wouldn't fix short throw, but worth considering. As for screen size . . . Bigger is better, but I'd be satisfied. Mostly I'd want to build a theater I am proud of, so aesthetics and performance are factors.

Since sconces are going to be a wall element to replace columns, I went and looked at Hubbardton Forge, since they always have the coolest stuff. Not really remembering its cool stuff that I can't afford. Feel like clawing my eyes out after seeing these ($250 a pop and I'd want at least 6):

post #12 of 195
I wanted Hubbardton Forge sconces also but at the prices they want its crazy they do have some of the coolest looking ones by far
post #13 of 195
Those are sweeeeeeet... man they would look awesome in my room as well but 6 would cost more than my screen and projector combined. Good luck getting that past the finance committe there
post #14 of 195
Thread Starter 
CJ was nice enough to give me a baseline for electrical if I decide to DIY in another thread. I am posting it here so I have it handy. Thanks CJ!

Quote:
Originally Posted by CJO View Post

Here's a quick layout of how I imagine you would run your electric to the lights (I guessed at your light positions).





As far as the installation-
  1. Install the boxes for the receptacles, sconces and cans first.
    • The center of the receptacle boxes should be 12" high from the finished floor.
    • All walls over 24" long should have a receptacle, you can subtract the width of a doorway.
    • Receptacles should be spaced no greater than 12' apart along the wall.
    • The boxes for the sconces should be at whatever height you want the sconces. You could place them around 7' high so that nobody hits their heads, but can vary depending on ceiling height and aesthetics. I don't think that there is any code issues with height.
  2. Then, drill a 1" hole through the middle of the studs approximately 20" from the finished floor (code doesn't address this, it is just how it is normally done). You will have to go over the door, so go ahead and drill holes in those studs as well.
  3. For the receptacles, just start at a panel and run 12/2 Romex through the studs to each receptacle. Using 12/2 is slightly more costly, but it can support 15A or 20A receptacles.
    • Cut the wire off at the receptacle so that you will have at least 8 inches hanging out of the receptacle once it's pulled through.
    • Strip the wire so that the unstripped portion is between 1/4" and 1" into the receptacle box.
    • You need to staple the wire within 8 inches of the box.
    • When going vertically to go over the door, you will have to secure the wire a minimum of every 48 inches with a staple.
    • Start the run to the next receptacle from the last one and continue until you have run wire to all of the receptacles.
  4. Do the same thing for wiring each of the lighting zones as you did with the receptacles, except you only need 14/2 wire.
    • Start at the box for the dimmer and run it to the first lighting fixture.
    • Follow the same rules as the receptacles.
    • Where you run the wire along the joists (for the can lights against the screen and for the two lights over the seating), make sure that you secure the wire every 4'.
    • You can choose to use the same hole in the studs as you did for wiring the receptacle, which will save time but waste wire, or you can drill a new set of holes for the sconces.
These numbers are based off of the NEC 2008. Most places in the US go by this, but not all. Check with your local code enforcement agency to make sure these apply.

CJ
post #15 of 195
Very nice Dave . I will keep on reading and watching your progress .

Regards, Dave (from Holland)
post #16 of 195
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daveys View Post

Very nice Dave . I will keep on reading and watching your progress .

Regards, Dave (from Holland)

Thanks Dave - Was in Amsterdam in May, loved all the bikes.

As for the basement, nothing doing at the moment, sorry to say. I have been toying with DIY sconce making ideas, and debating the order of home improvement projects (landscaping vs basement). I wish this was my last house, but I know it won't be.

I am also digitally scanning about 3500 slide photographs that my parents have taken over the last 53 years and pulling together a DVD for the family. Its really wild to see you parents when they were young. I am halfway through including a big batch I scanned for their 50th anniversary.
post #17 of 195
Quote:
Originally Posted by dc_pilgrim View Post

Thanks Dave - Was in Amsterdam in May, loved all the bikes.

As for the basement, nothing doing at the moment, sorry to say. I have been toying with DIY sconce making ideas, and debating the order of home improvement projects (landscaping vs basement). I wish this was my last house, but I know it won't be.

I am also digitally scanning about 3500 slide photographs that my parents have taken over the last 53 years and pulling together a DVD for the family. Its really wild to see you parents when they were young. I am halfway through including a big batch I scanned for their 50th anniversary.

Enough to do for you then . Sometimes you have to make priorities and / or wise descisions. I think you made that decisions. Keep us posted when you do start and good luck with the 3500 slide photographs

Dave
post #18 of 195
and the madness continues... I'm subscribed! Welcome back, not that you ever really left!

Judson
post #19 of 195
Thread Starter 
There is no escape. Even if this is going to be a slow ride, welcome aboard.

Actually, took a step backward today. Moved a bunch of storage into my planned room, so that it can be sorted and put away in the main storage room after we add a sump pit & pump, and a few other projects. Probably take a while to get that junk back out.
post #20 of 195
Thread Starter 
EDIT - Decided to go a different direction than the onyx columns. Still planning low profile columns though


Contemplating marrying low profile columns like these:


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post15484799

With the translucent onyx similar to these sconces:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8#post15321708

I would probably go with it as an inlay in the column, maybe something like this:


Would switch to a red, black and gold color scheme, since the marble onyx tiles (based on google) seem to more prevalent in honeys, greens and reds than blue. This design would take an 18"x12" tile and cut it to 18" by 6", then the column is 14" wide, 3" deep, enough to add a light source, and probably include a power outlet as well. Then run red rope light in the crown that would flank the soffit.

I would need to add cans or puck lights under the soffit, since most of the lighting I like is accent oriented (accent sconces, rope, star ceiling).

EDIT - color scheme approaches to consider if red/black/gold:
Makeit57's masterpiece:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=618498
post #21 of 195
Very nice column design Dave.

Those will look great. Due a search for specific color and you might find choices your looking for.
post #22 of 195
Thread Starter 
Thanks Oman - - Been keeping an eye on your thread too, you've made a lot of progress. I will definitely want to take a look next time we are up there (god knows when).

I need to look around in actual stores and whatnot. Given that the project does not have an official greenlight, its just design right now. Given the size of the space available I am trying to give it punch without overdoing it (e.g. $300 sconces). I am sure I won't be in this house forever.

Meanwhile, I am trying to knock off all the other little projects.
post #23 of 195
You are always welcome. I know it's tough to be in and stay in design phase. I was originally gonna wait a year and a half before I started, that lasted 6 months. The nice thing is that you are doing a great job in planning everything.
post #24 of 195
Thread Starter 
EDIT - This design was decided against but might be interesting to some readers

God, I am terrible at sketchup.

Quickie of the new columns & color scheme.

Up high


I kicked around flipping the other way to avoid the door on the screenwall, but it just creates planning issues around the electrical panel access, and limits seating choices. Been there done that. There is only one row option, its a small room. I need four across.

EDIT - flipping the color scheme -



post #25 of 195
It looks like you have a great start. Although I will never forgive you for posting those sconces up. Man, those are sweet. I may now have to make my own sconces, and it will be all your fault.
post #26 of 195
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by darkpixie08 View Post

It looks like you have a great start. Although I will never forgive you for posting those sconces up. Man, those are sweet. I may now have to make my own sconces, and it will be all your fault.

Thanks, and err, sorry post pics if you DIY them.
post #27 of 195
Thread Starter 
Many thanks to Jamis for explaining to me in his thread how his shakers were wired. His post will be assimilated:

Quote:
Originally Posted by jamis View Post

I have a speaker wire going from the closet to each row of 3. I then spliced the red wire from the amp with the two 'red' halves of the speaker wires and the black wire with the 'black' halves of the speaker wire. I then wired each row in series.



Each row has a wall plate on the riser (very bottom right hand corner of the first picture you quoted) with speaker terminals. The red terminal has a wire going to the red terminal on the first shaker. I then ran a wire from the black (negative) terminal on that shaker to the positive terminal on the next shaker... and so on, completing the circuit by running a wire from the negative terminal on the last shaker back to the black terminal on the wall plate.
post #28 of 195
Looking at your plans.. you seem to be planning one row of 4.

You'd probably want to wire yours in parallel, assuming one shaker per seat. Basically, you'd want to daisy chain the red terminals and daisy chain the black terminals.

Red wire -> red terminal on first shaker -> red terminal on second -> red terminal on third -> red terminal on fourth.

Black wire -> black terminal on first shaker -> black terminal on second -> black terminal on third -> black terminal on fourth.

This will give you an overall impedance of 4ohm, which is perfect for most of the subwoofer amps on parts express. I'd probably consider the 240W Dayton amp in this case.
post #29 of 195
Thread Starter 
Yep, one row of four.

That would have been how I would have done it left to my own devices without knowing there was any difference between the different techniques. Ok - that will be the plan.

Either that or I would have run 4 wires and gotten an amp with four outputs. That looks much easier.
post #30 of 195
Or more simply:

red wire -> wall plate red terminal

black wire -> wall plate black terminal

And hook up a speaker wire to each shaker from the wall plate. (or splice the wires instead of using a wall plate)
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