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Sony VPL-HW10 Owners AND Calibration Thread - Page 9

post #241 of 780
Maybe this is basic but.. Would this projector take the 4:4:4 color output of Panny BD55? That player seems to have the best color procesing for BD right now..
post #242 of 780
Quote:
Originally Posted by HoustonHoyaFan View Post

What kind of CR are you getting with that kind of white level and black level setting? It must be pretty poor

No it is the same contrast as 50 /90 on video 16-235 levels .... Setting Contrast lower and brightness higher on 0-255 levels is the HW-10s way of getting the correct greyscale.... A Lot of other projectors have a setting of extended or something which does the same thing...
post #243 of 780
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SgtPepper View Post

Maybe this is basic but.. Would this projector take the 4:4:4 color output of Panny BD55? That player seems to have the best color procesing for BD right now..

I haven't tried that color mode because I thought it was specific to Panasonic Viera equipped displays.

Is it just basically a 4:4:4 color space? If yes, I will have to try it and see how the color track changes.

I'm not sure we'll see anything different. Thanks for the thought. I had written that color space option off.
post #244 of 780
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by aquafire View Post

Projector X suddenly seems apparent to me.

I think my HW10 needs to come and see you Bytehoven for a calibration session

Where are you located?

Aqua... try my numbers. Do you have any calibration gear?

Although the various HW10 WB tracks I have seen owners post have been very good, they have also been quite different. Just different enough for a common offset to not likely very useful. However, it's still worth a try.
post #245 of 780
Toronto, Canada.

No calibration gear. Really new to me at the level your working on.

Not sure what equipment to even buy,
post #246 of 780
Quote:
Originally Posted by KramerTC View Post

aquafire,

Fully zoomed out at 17' for a 2.35:1 aspect ratio in which the top and bottom black bars are projected outside of the viewing area of the screen? How do you like the picture at that setting? Can you see pixels when fully zoomed? Please let me know.

Yes. I think it looks amazing. No visible pixels from 12'.
post #247 of 780
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by aquafire View Post

Toronto, Canada.

No calibration gear. Really new to me at the level your working on.

Not sure what equipment to even buy,

There are some threads in the AVS calibration forum. You can get a very good setup in the $499 range, complete and ready to run on your PC or under windows emulation on an Intel Mac.

You can go cheaper, but you have to have more experience with what probes buy and then run the free HFRC software. There is then lack of support, but the members in the calibration forum are helpful.

I went a little higher $$$ with my CalMAN rig which has the Chroma 5 probe (from their $499 system) and the i1Pro probe. The Chroma 5 is great for doing everything but color tracking, and the i1Pro is great for color and helping the Chroma 5 be over all more accurate via profiling it's color tracking. That's were I'm held up right now, trying to get the Chroma 5 properly profiled with the i1Pro.

The only down side to buying the calibration gear, once you get the projector the way you want, the gear goes on the shelf. That was the case with my old Progressive Labs setup, although I was able to sell it.
post #248 of 780
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bytehoven View Post

I haven't tried that color mode because I thought it was specific to Panasonic Viera equipped displays.

Is it just basically a 4:4:4 color space? If yes, I will have to try it and see how the color track changes.

I'm not sure we'll see anything different. Thanks for the thought. I had written that color space option off.


It just seems to be improved HQ color processing, so maybe it is better than Sony's, if it does take it by HDMI without extra upsampling and processing:

Quote:


Panasonic was able to introduce their Reference Chroma Processor Plus for both the DMP-BD35 and DMP-BD55, adding 4:4:4 video upsampling of the native 4:2:0 information from Blu-ray Discs.

This vertical and horizontal upsampling of the color information improves the resolution of color information, as they showed using a Panasonic plasma (a VIERA PZ800 model) that was capable of accepting and properly displaying 4:4:4 signals over HDMI. Comparing a DMP-BD30 (and a few recently released Blu-ray players from competitors) to the DMP-BD35 using test patterns, the improvements with the upsampling were immediately obvious. Even viewing real material, the image seemed to be sharper, with better-defined transitions between colors.
post #249 of 780
Quote:
Originally Posted by gbickle View Post

No it is the same contrast as 50 /90 on video 16-235 levels .... Setting Contrast lower and brightness higher on 0-255 levels is the HW-10s way of getting the correct greyscale.... A Lot of other projectors have a setting of extended or something which does the same thing...

If the pj is expecting PC and you give it Video levels then you would need to lower brightness and increase contrast to compensate. The lowered black level expands the input 16 to display 0, the raised white level expands the input 235 to display 255. I understand that, my Sharp 12KII has that bug.

How does raising the black level and lowering the white level compensate for getting a narrower range than the display device is expecting? If the display is expecting 16 for black and it gets 0 how does a raised black level compensate? If it expects 235 and it gets 255 how does a lowered white level compensate?
post #250 of 780
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SgtPepper View Post

It just seems to be improved HQ color processing, so maybe it is better than Sony's, if it does take it by HDMI without extra upsampling and processing:

Sony Deep Color is 4:2:2, and I'm not sure what it would do with a 4:4:4 signal. But I'll soon find out!

The Sony SXRD 4K projectors support RGB 4:4:4
post #251 of 780
Regarding VPL-VW60 Greg Rogers said it was 4:4:4. So the VPL-HW10 cannot go backwards. If it did, you'll found out pretty soon I guess.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Rogers View Post

I believe the processing is 10-bit. The processing is 4:4:4 which gives it an edge in color detail vs the processing chips that do 4:2:2 processing.
post #252 of 780
Thread Starter 
No difference between the 55k Viera Color mode ON/OFF. I tried the HW10 in both wide and normal color modes.

I 'll try to check if I can observe a difference in any of the other PQ attributes you mentioned.
post #253 of 780
Quote:
Originally Posted by HoustonHoyaFan View Post

If the pj is expecting PC and you give it Video levels then you would need to lower brightness and increase contrast to compensate. The lowered black level expands the input 16 to display 0, the raised white level expands the input 235 to display 255. I understand that, my Sharp 12KII has that bug.

How does raising the black level and lowering the white level compensate for getting a narrower range than the display device is expecting? If the display is expecting 16 for black and it gets 0 how does a raised black level compensate? If it expects 235 and it gets 255 how does a lowered white level compensate?

The display is compensating for getting a wider range (0-255) ... It is calibrated out of the box for 16-235 levels. ...

So If the display sees 16 as black on the factory levels (0 is blacker than 16) then you will need to raise the brightness to compensate

By the way ... arent we talking about the projector getting a wider range than its expecting?
post #254 of 780
Have anyone noticed that saturation on red (mainly) decreases when setting the contrast above +/- 50? The grayscale remains stable when upping contrast.

I have calibrated two HW10's, and both projectors had the same error.
post #255 of 780
Posts cleaned up. This is the Sony VPL-HW10 thread and is not the place to bring other projectors into. Please keep this on topic or you will be asked to leave.
post #256 of 780
Hello All,

Wow, I spent some time playing with the Eye 2 and HCFR- Colorimeter.

So How do you convert the ColorHCFR file to a j-peg? So I can post some pic's.

I have the before and after files.

There some things which I don't quite understand.

1. My Gamma is below 2.2. How do you boost it??

2. The second part I had trouble with the Delta E part. I didn't quite understand how to adjust the colours.

But I found my overall picture very close to Byte's last posting.

Thanks,

Gezza.
post #257 of 780
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GezzaZ3 View Post

I spent some time playing with the Eye 2 and HCFR- Colorimeter. Gezza.

Hi Gezza

Please visit the AVS calibration forum at the link below. There is a HCRF specific thread that might help resolve all of your questions regarding that software.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=139

You can adjust the gamma curve track by using GAMMA 1 & 2 to take it higher, and GAMMA 3 to take it lower. While my examination of the gamma tracks was brief, Gamma 3 provided the proper track in CalMAN. The OFF, Gamma 1 & 2 all had the track run higher than 2.2. Your observations could be based on the Eye 2 probe, and the calibration forum would help you get a better understanding of what to expect from the Eye 2 probe.

Other Sony SXRD projectors offer the Image Director software which allows for custom gamma curve editing. I have put in a formal request for a software or projector update to allow the HW10 to use the ID 3 software. I have not yet gotten a yes/no answer, so I have hopes an update could be forth coming.

Delta E. The RGB Gain affects the higher luminance range more, while the RGB Bias affects the lower range more. So depending on where RGB values are elevated or dip along the 30-100% grayscale range, you either work toward balance from the bottom or the top. There is also an interaction with the top/bottom balancing of the other colors. It takes some time and experimentation for you to gain some insight into what adjustments to make to get the flattest WB track, or the lowest Delta across the grayscale. What you will eventually see, is there is usually more than one way to get a good WB track, but only one way to get a great WB track. Because we can't cheat and use the ID3 software, perfection is a little tougher to achieve, but it can be achieved.

My 6500K WB track is a good example of settings that need just a little more work. However, the i1Pro I am using to calibrate is not the best at lower luminance levels of 20% and below, and that's where I need to focus my final tweaks. Once I have the Chroma 5 properly profiled to the i1Pro, I can tweak away at the lower end of the grayscale with assurance I'm getting accurate feedback from the probe.

It's also important to understand there are compromises with various calibration setups. The Eye 2 is less expensive and is less accurate. However, there is also a level of accuracy well above my gear, so my measurements could be better. Like all things in life, you need to strike a balance between cost and performance. The Eye 2 & HCRF is a terrific value, but understanding it's limitations will help you focus on the probes strengths, and again this is where seeking advice in the calibration forum would be very helpful.
post #258 of 780
Quote:
Originally Posted by magnust View Post

From what I can see, the hw10 does not switch to compensate for video and pc levels. When I use my PS3 connected through hdmi and switch it's hdmi out setting between video- and pc-levels there is an obvious difference in black level. If the hw10 compensated automatically I guess there would be very little difference.

does the ps3 re-handshake when you switch between pc and video levels??

i don't know otherwise how the display would know the levels had changed.
post #259 of 780
Quote:
Originally Posted by gbickle View Post

...So If the display sees 16 as black on the factory levels (0 is blacker than 16) then you will need to raise the brightness to compensate

What does a display set to Video Level (16-235) do when it receives a 0, 1, 2...15?

How does manually increasing the black level ( from 50 to 69 ) compensate?
post #260 of 780
Quote:
Originally Posted by HoustonHoyaFan View Post

What does a display set to Video Level (16-235) do when it receives a 0, 1, 2...15?

How does manually increasing the black level ( from 50 to 69 ) compensate?

When it recieves 0-15 it would clip (at brightness 50) ... so by raising the brightness to 69 (66 in my case) the 0-15 levels can now be displayed.

So if brightness 50 means level 16 is perfectly black... then level 15 will be blacker than black and wont display...But raise the brightness to 51 and now 16 is not perfect black so it will accept a level lower and display it...
post #261 of 780
I had more time today to spend in front of my hw10 and I compared my pre and post calibration settings again with some different movies and I must say that I prefer my post calibration settings now. The pre-calibration settings have a greenish cast to them when comparing (as is visible in the RGB-graphs I posted earlier) I also think that the hit in CR the calibration made is so small that I now prefer my D65 setting. I will calibrate for higher color temps as well as that could be handy from time to time.

As to contrast and brightness levels. I came to the values I reproted by calibrating against the black-bar and white-bar testpattern on the AVS HD 709 disc. I set my values so that level 16 is just visible and level 235 is just visible, below and above that my signal is clipped. I'm not sure if I should adjust contrast/brightness with the auto-iris on or off. With it on I get Contrast 72 and Brightness 69, with auto-iris off I get contrast 73 and Brightness 67. The image has a little more pop to it with the second set of settings but it's not a big difference of course. Do you guys set contrast/brightness with auto iris on or off?

Someone pointed out that my test with ouputting video and pc levels from my ps3 might have been flawed by not allowing the ps3-hw10 to handshake between the switches in level. I retested this tonight and made sure that I cycled input on the hw10 after changing the setting on the ps3. I also tried turning the ps3 off then on after changing the range setting. It made no difference. Either the hw10 does not automatically adjust for video and pc-levels or the PS3 is not playing by the book. In fact, I have not been able to get my ps3 to output btb nor wtw using the AVS HD 709 disc (which could of course explain why the hw10 does not autoswitch). I have tried with the black bar and white bar pattern on AVS HD 709 disc and there is no data outside the 16-235 range. Does anyone know whats up with this? I have a fairly recent firmware version in my ps3 (2.1?) which I assume should be able to output btb and wtw.

EDIT: cleaned up last paragraph.
post #262 of 780
Quote:
Originally Posted by gbickle View Post

When it recieves 0-15 it would clip (at brightness 50) ... so by raising the brightness to 69 (66 in my case) the 0-15 levels can now be displayed.

So if brightness 50 means level 16 is perfectly black... then level 15 will be blacker than black and wont display...But raise the brightness to 51 and now 16 is not perfect black so it will accept a level lower and display it...

The brightness settings do not map directly to video levels, the scales are different. Brightness and contrast controls go from 0-100, video levels are 16-235 (or 0-255). So even if the notion that "0-15 levels can now be displayed" is true, you've actually increased the black levels by a much large amount than just "0-15". Did you set these using a test pattern, i.e. a gradient ramp showing black/white levels?

I have a VW40 and would guess that it's pretty similar to the HW10. I've found that the difference between using 16-235 and 0-255 from my HTPC is noticeable, but slight. The defaults of brightness = 50 and contrast = 90 have been very close to perfect for just about all cases for me. Maybe a few points up or down, but nothing significant. YMMV.

Quote:
Do you guys set contrast/brightness with auto iris on or off?

You should do your calibrations with the iris off.
post #263 of 780
post #264 of 780
Quote:
Originally Posted by JDLIVE View Post

The brightness settings do not map directly to video levels, the scales are different. Brightness and contrast controls go from 0-100, video levels are 16-235 (or 0-255). So even if the notion that "0-15 levels can now be displayed" is true, you've actually increased the black levels by a much large amount than just "0-15". Did you set these using a test pattern, i.e. a gradient ramp showing black/white levels?

I have a VW40 and would guess that it's pretty similar to the HW10. I've found that the difference between using 16-235 and 0-255 from my HTPC is noticeable, but slight. The defaults of brightness = 50 and contrast = 90 have been very close to perfect for just about all cases for me. Maybe a few points up or down, but nothing significant. YMMV.



You should do your calibrations with the iris off.

I know the scales are different.. I was just trying to make a point that one had to Raise the brightness to compensate for lower black levels... Yes this is done with a Gradient ramp. The first post in the this thread has an excel sheet from a French Review site which has their calibration settings (Brightness and Contrast) for 0-255 levels which concur with our settings..
post #265 of 780
Quote:
Originally Posted by gbickle View Post

When it recieves 0-15 it would clip (at brightness 50) ... so by raising the brightness to 69 (66 in my case) the 0-15 levels can now be displayed.

So if brightness 50 means level 16 is perfectly black... then level 15 will be blacker than black and wont display...But raise the brightness to 51 and now 16 is not perfect black so it will accept a level lower and display it...

A display set to Video Levels is supposed to clip values below video 15, it never attempts to display them. Changing the black level via the brightness control will not cause the display to output clipped values.

If your display is expecting Video levels(16-235), do not feed it PC levels, the mismatch cannot be compensated with the brightness and contrast controls.

If your display is expecting PC levels(0-255), and it gets Video levels, it can be crudely compensated for by lowering brightness and raising contrast.

The Sony automatically handles PC and Video levels over HDMI so there should not be any issue except for user error.
post #266 of 780
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bytehoven View Post

Initial report on my HW10 viewing tonight.

- My Screens: My HT front area is all black with medium dark taupe for sides walls and ceiling, almost a bat cave. I have a pulldown Da-Lite HP 92" 16x9 diagonal. Behind the pull down screen, I have a slightly smaller ultra white painted screen. I tend to use the HP for personal viewing and the painted wall screen when I have a full house, because illumination is better at extreme angles with the painted wall. There is a very slight color shift between the two, but I usually calibrate for the HP.

Some comparisons to my Sony HS51A 720p projector: Right off the bat I noticed a couple of things.

- Resolution of HW10 1080p is awesome. I view the 51A on the 92" 16x9 screen from about 12', and screen door is visible starting at around 11'. The HW10 pixel structure is not visible until within 6', leaving me alot of room to start moving my seat closer during private viewing. I might also note I was checking out a RS1 and 1080UB at a local theater shop today. The appearance of screen door was just a little more pronounced on the Espon, and the pixel structure was hard to make out on the RS1. I thought the RS1 looked like it might employee a little pixel hiding trickery and tended to make for a slightly soft image compared to the 1080UB. The HW10 pixel structure seems a happy balance.

- Contrast: The HW10 is obviously darker in dark scenes and brighter in bright scenes than my HS51A. The HW10 is way darker when the iris is dialed closed in manual mode from (50) to (0). This suggests some tweaking of the service menu AUTO Iris controls might expand performance during dark scenes. The controls are there under the OTHER menu of the service menu. In addition, the HW10 intra-scene ANSI contrast is better than the HS51A, and the AE3000 is likely to be even better. IMHO, this the remaining area SXRD could use some improvement, and the reason I thought I should check out the AE3000 and maybe even the RS10. Could I live with the HW10 contrast performance? Absolutely. Especially if some AUTO IRIS tweaks might further darken up the low APL scenes. I should check out those OPEN/CLOSE REG & OPEN/CLOSE HALL controls right now.

- Grayscale/White Balance out of the box: While I have not taken any measurements yet, but to my eye the grayscale tracking of the SD-DVD AVIA Pro 5 IRE cross horizontal step pattern was excellent for all the color temps and IRIS settings. Quite a dramatic improvement from my pretty well calibrated HS51A, especially when the HS51A is in AUTO IRIS mode. I think I could leave the HW10 factory grayscale settings "as is". Also, I saw no evidence of video processing induced white balance errors with the HW10 under AUTO IRIS. WHEW! Some of the early IronMan cave scenes are a good test for such white balance errors. Sin City is another good test.

- Grayscale/Gamma Shading Uniformity: I put up the HW10 service menu GAMMA screens and all but the brightest (11) looked perfectly balanced to my eye. The brightest (11) screen had a very, very slight shift to blue on the right 1/3 of the screen while the left 2/3s of the screen were balanced. But again it was very slight and something you might not even notice unless you were looking for it, which I was. . I could live with it, but I thought it worth mentioning.

4) Gamma: Like the RS1 I saw today, the HW10 needs just a little custom GAMMA work to maintain best black levels without suppressing shadow detail. I have yet to extensively play with GAMMA. However, the HW10 PICTURE/GAMMA controls might be my 1st area of complaint. I'm not keen on the way Sony arranged the controls for GAMMA 1, 2, 3 & OFF as well as how gamma is adjusted by each step. I like it better when the GAMMA increases in steps from the OFF position. The GAMMA settings are not logical as they seem to be 1=(+1) 2=(+2) 3=(-1) OFF=(0). The way the control settings progress, you don't get to see the gradual application of gamma curve changes. Me no likey. 3, OFF, 1 & 2 would have been a better set up.

- Motion Blur Testing for 24p/60p: I was testing 1080p24 & 1080p60 tonight on the HW10 using the IronMan scene where the camera pulls back from the Stark's cliff house. It's the scene soon after the reporter/sleep over wakes up. In this case, 1080p60 was smoothest and cleanest. The 1080p24 showed just a bit of vertical judder on horizontal lines as the camera pulled back. I need a better test sample to really figure it out 24p for the HW10, 55k and DVDO Edge. Please recommend a good sample for testing motion blur.

- Screen Positioning Controls: This is an area where I don't know what Sony was thinking. I use a high shelf for placing the projector in an up right orientation. Unfortunately, the HW10 screen movement range is compromised when the projector is right side up and high on a shelf. While there was room to raise/lower the screen, room to move the screen side to side was compromised. The projector is designed to be inverted to get full range of the positioning controls. I ended up needing to skew the projector direction to properly adjust for side to side screen position. A fix would be to rig a way to mount the HW10 inverted on my rear shelf area. I might note my HS51A does not have this problem, but it also doesn't a big chunk of glass hanging on the front.

- Sound: The HW10 in high lamp mode is quieter than the HS51A in low lamp mode. Thank you Sony!

- Bright Corners: As Jason has said, if you look for them, you can barely see them, so not a problem.

- Is there a Sub-Service /Service Menu? I say this because it seemed like there were some things missing from the service menu controls. For instance when you look into the service menu W/B color temp settings for HIGH/MEDIUM/LOW, they all read 128 across the board for RGB bias/gain. Hello? While I expected the USER color temp controls to all read (0), the service menu color temp controls usually have a range a values reflecting the differences in color temp. Is this the same for other Sony SXRD projectors?

- Side Mount Connections: I share Stainless-Steels's sentiments in that I'd rather have the connection in the rear. It's workable, and I'm sure many other folks like the side mount connections.

- Hmmm, what else...I guess that's it for now. I'm gonna go watch Troy on BG. I'll post anything else that jumps out at me, and I will follow up on how the AE3000 compares late next week.

Feel free to ask me for things to check out on the HW10.

Cheers

RJ

Hi, Guys!

I am back on this PJ fun game.

My Sony 12HT is OK, low hours (250) on the lamp but it lacks of HDMI (actually hooked up to a Sony BDP-S1 Blu-ray player through component cables 1080i) and I really see the difference on picture between my recent purchased Bravia 52" LCD TV KDL XBR 6.

The HW10 could be the replacement PJ in my set up and since I have been out of this game for years I will like have you opinion based on my current system.

1. 92" 16 x 9 Drapper 1.3 gain fix screen (white)

2. Short throw distance 11.5 ft.

3. Total dark room

4. Ceiling mounted installation


Questions:

1. Can I still use the actual Sony PSS-10 ceiling mount for the HW10

2. Is my 1.3 gain white screen suitable for the HW10

3. Is current location - short throw distance OK for the HW10

4. Is there any other considerations I should know to upgrade from my Sony VW12HT

Thanks!
post #267 of 780
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Turk View Post

It's actually a short to mid...definitely not long. Long throws typically cost more I think is the main reason (at least for a good one). That is why with many companies it is an additional cost to get long throw.

Hi, Guys!

I am back on this PJ fun game.

My Sony 12HT is OK, low hours (250) on the lamp but it lacks of HDMI (actually hooked up to a Sony BDP-S1 Blu-ray player through component cables 1080i) and I really see the difference on picture between my recent purchased Bravia 52" LCD TV KDL XBR 6.

The HW10 could be the replacement PJ in my set up and since I have been out of this game for years I will like have you opinion based on my current system.

1. 92" 16 x 9 Drapper 1.3 gain fix screen (white)

2. Short throw distance 11.5 ft.

3. Total dark room

4. Ceiling mounted installation


Questions:

1. Can I still use the actual Sony PSS-10 ceiling mount for the HW10

2. Is my 1.3 gain white screen suitable for the HW10

3. Is current location - short throw distance OK for the HW10

4. Is there any other considerations I should know to upgrade from my Sony VW12HT

Thanks!
post #268 of 780
guelin,

the hw10 should be fine in your situation.
very nearly plug and play (other than requiring a new hdmi cable).
i went from a 10ht to the hw10 on a 92" firehawk w/ the projector
mounted at 11'.

i thinking about a larger screen.
post #269 of 780
Icecubed,

I read your prior comments about improvements with the 10HW over the 10HT. I have a 10HT too and I'm considering the 10HW as well as the Panny 3000 for it's replacement. Did you consider the Panny 3000 as well, if so why did you pick the HW10?

Any additional commments on what you're seeing with the 10HW versus the 10HT?

I have a 120" 16:9 Grayhawk screen in a light controlled room and it is plenty bright enough for me in high mode until the bulb gets 800-900 hours on it. Projector is mounted about 14' from screen. Nice to hear that the 10HW is brighter so maybe I can use the low mode with it?

Thank you.
post #270 of 780
that's a big screen to drive w/ a 10HT.
i started off w/ a 92" greyhawk, then replaced the
material w/ (then new) original 1.3 gain first gen firehawk
because the greyhawk just seemed too dark even at cinema black turned off.

the things i noticed:

1) much better black levels and contrast over the 10ht
(i had done all the tweaks w/ cc40 filters, color probes, and
adjust drive voltages, etc and got to a lofty contrast of 280 or so on the 10ht).
the hw10 is a huge improvement.

2) going from a greyhawk to the 1st gen firehawk let me run
the 10ht in cinema black mode. my new hw10 is much quieter than the 10ht
(even in cinema black mode).

i can't hear the hw10 in cinema pro mode (low bulb/low fan)

the greyhawk was overkill for the 10ht and even more so for the hw10.

that said, i'm noticing sparklies due to the screen material and
increased projector resolution. i'm told this problem
goes away w/ the new generation of firehawk materials
if my projector has a longer throw (currently at 1.5)

i'm looking at a series of upgrades in the next calendar year.
the first will be to replace the white ceiling tiles w/ black
and the second will be to go to a larger screen probably
w/ the studiotek 3g material

lastly:

got rid of the annoying overscan inherent in the 10HT.

(1.85 actually shows as 1.85 instead of 1.78)

and the hdmi accepts input from my laptop w/o dropping into a 4:3 aspect ratio.
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