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Sony VPL-HW10 Owners AND Calibration Thread - Page 20

post #571 of 780
I'll post picture soon
post #572 of 780
I have looked for an answer to this, but could not find one. I am currently using the PS3 to upscale images to the HW10. Should I be. The image has always looked a little soft too me, then I started thinking that maybe I should let the picture handle the upscale.

Anybody know which is better?

Thanks for the help.

Mark
post #573 of 780

if you watch the bottom corners you can see the line goes out to the mask(start to be blue) and the others are not because the others are straight.
post #574 of 780
Quote:
Originally Posted by SonyHome View Post

So if I can get Pioneer Kuro FPJ1 for same price as HW10 would that be the better projector?

The HW10 is a class below the Kuro I think. Isn't the Kuro a rebadged RS2? If the price is really the same, go for the Kuro, I know I would.

No Kuro deals here, but a new JVC 350 would cost me double the price of the HW10, and at that price difference, the HW10 wins IMHO

Neko
post #575 of 780
Quote:
Originally Posted by KuroNeko View Post

The HW10 is a class below the Kuro I think. Isn't the Kuro a rebadged RS2? If the price is really the same, go for the Kuro, I know I would.

No Kuro deals here, but a new JVC 350 would cost me double the price of the HW10, and at that price difference, the HW10 wins IMHO

Neko

Thanks Neko. It seems Pioneer is getting out of TV business so they are having close out sale on the Kuro FPJ1 and the price is reduced drastically. My only concern with FPJ1 is the 600 lumens rating but some reason even with that projector calculator is giving it higher fL rating then HW10 which is 1000 lumens. What gives? My project will have to fill 126" from 13' away. Some have suggested higher gain screens. Where do I get those?
post #576 of 780
Quote:
Originally Posted by SonyHome View Post

Assuming your binoculars are in focus

It's easy enough if you have something to hold them in place (e.g. a tripod) just have someone hold up a bit of paper with text or something printed on it against the screen, focus the binoculars on the paper, take it away and then focus the projector.

Just make sure the projector has been on at least an hour before you go for "critical" focusing as it shifts a little as it warms up. (it's stable after that though)

Quote:
Originally Posted by SonyHome View Post

So if I can get Pioneer Kuro FPJ1 for same price as HW10 would that be the better projector? Not trying to start a brand war or something but just want to get the best unit for the money for my first projector.

Better in some ways and worse in others.

Native on/off contrast should be higher on the Pioneer (rebranded JVC) I think. (contrast in darker scenes) ANSI contrast will be higher on the HW10 though. (contrast in brighter scenes)

I have heard people say that Sony's SXRD projectors handle motion better than JVC's LCoS does. (even without motionflow etc.)

I'm not sure that particular projector has an iris at all either, which would make it harder to get the right amount of light output. (may be too dark or too bright if you only have a bulb high/low option)

JVC's aren't well known for their panel uniformity, whereas my HW10 is pretty much spot-on and has adjustments in the service menu if required.

The Sony projectors have 0.1 pixel convergence adjustments, and I'm not sure the JVCs have any. (perhaps 1px in the service menu?) I've documented the effects of this with test patterns and real-world content here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1124328

The Pioneer/JVC is supposed to be a more expensive, higher-end projector and will have better build quality/features such as a motorised lens which helps get things set up quicker. (the HW10 is manual zoom/focus and has wheels for the lens shift)

The JVCs have a 9-point gamma adjustment whereas the HW10 only has four presets to choose from. (a "flat" 2.0, 2.1, 2.2 and 2.3)

The JVCs have very oversaturated colours with no colour management system to help reign them in. The HW10 has both a colour space option (SMPTE-C/Wide gamut) and the RCP CMS which offers RGBCMY chroma & hue controls for more accurate colour reproduction.


Personally though, I think the main decider is what your viewing environment is going to be like (a high contrast ratio isn't going to matter if you're in a bright room with lots of reflections back on the screen) and whether or not you like/can tolerate very oversaturated colours. (I can't)

Quote:
Originally Posted by AceMT View Post

I have looked for an answer to this, but could not find one. I am currently using the PS3 to upscale images to the HW10. Should I be. The image has always looked a little soft too me, then I started thinking that maybe I should let the picture handle the upscale.

Upscaling always looks soft no matter what's doing it, that's why you want native HD content where possible.
post #577 of 780
Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewfee View Post

It's easy enough if you have something to hold them in place (e.g. a tripod) just have someone hold up a bit of paper with text or something printed on it against the screen, focus the binoculars on the paper, take it away and then focus the projector.

Just make sure the projector has been on at least an hour before you go for "critical" focusing as it shifts a little as it warms up. (it's stable after that though)


Better in some ways and worse in others.

Native on/off contrast should be higher on the Pioneer (rebranded JVC) I think. (contrast in darker scenes) ANSI contrast will be higher on the HW10 though. (contrast in brighter scenes)

I have heard people say that Sony's SXRD projectors handle motion better than JVC's LCoS does. (even without motionflow etc.)

I'm not sure that particular projector has an iris at all either, which would make it harder to get the right amount of light output. (may be too dark or too bright if you only have a bulb high/low option)

JVC's aren't well known for their panel uniformity, whereas my HW10 is pretty much spot-on and has adjustments in the service menu if required.

The Sony projectors have 0.1 pixel convergence adjustments, and I'm not sure the JVCs have any. (perhaps 1px in the service menu?) I've documented the effects of this with test patterns and real-world content here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1124328

The Pioneer/JVC is supposed to be a more expensive, higher-end projector and will have better build quality/features such as a motorised lens which helps get things set up quicker. (the HW10 is manual zoom/focus and has wheels for the lens shift)

The JVCs have a 9-point gamma adjustment whereas the HW10 only has four presets to choose from. (a "flat" 2.0, 2.1, 2.2 and 2.3)

The JVCs have very oversaturated colours with no colour management system to help reign them in. The HW10 has both a colour space option (SMPTE-C/Wide gamut) and the RCP CMS which offers RGBCMY chroma & hue controls for more accurate colour reproduction.


Personally though, I think the main decider is what your viewing environment is going to be like (a high contrast ratio isn't going to matter if you're in a bright room with lots of reflections back on the screen) and whether or not you like/can tolerate very oversaturated colours. (I can't)


Upscaling always looks soft no matter what's doing it, that's why you want native HD content where possible.


My main concern is that I would like to watch it on the biggest possible screen in my HT that will have total light control and still have great picture experience. I'm thinking right now that is 126". I was little concerned with FPJ1 600 lumen but some sources indicate that even with lower lumens it is brighter than HW10 which has 1000 lumens.

I really like to stay with Sony brand if all things equal out since I've had great luck with having Sony equipment for the past 13 years. I really like the picture I get on my 70XBR2 RPTV and planning to buy either the 52XBR6 LCD or 52XBR7 LCD when my basement remodel is finished. I also just ordered DA6400ES receiver to replace my DA50ES for my new HT so again I would like to stay within Sony brand if all things are equal. But if I'm getting much better projector in FPJ1 for the same price then I wouldn't hesitate to get that but I'm not sure if that's been decided.

How does the picture from HW10 compare to any of these TVs I mentioned above? Does the brightness drop off greatly as you put few hundred hours in the lamp on HW10? Will I have troubles with 126" screen from 13' away? My HT will have no windows so I can totally control the light but I would like the option to watch in some light if possible.

From what I been reading it seems like regardless of price the quality of picture you get from these digital projectors are pretty equivalent although you may get less features. Do you agree with that?

Thanks.
post #578 of 780
Quote:
Originally Posted by SonyHome View Post

My main concern is that I would like to watch it on the biggest possible screen in my HT that will have total light control and still have great picture experience. I'm thinking right now that is 126". I was little concerned with FPJ1 600 lumen but some sources indicate that even with lower lumens it is brighter than HW10 which has 1000 lumens.

Manufacturer's ratings are essentially meaningless. JVC's ratings are considered to be fairly conservative, whereas Sony's are more inflated. ProjectorCentral's calculations are based on the reviewed numbers where available, or the manufacturer's spec if not. They've reviewed the HW10 and not the FPJ1, so the numbers aren't comparable. I've also found that the calculator just isn't that reliable anyway.

From their HW10 review:
Quote:
Originally Posted by ProjectorCentral View Post

Unlike previous Sony 1080p projectors, the HW10 is a powerhouse in video optimized mode at 697 ANSI lumens. In a light-controlled room, that is enough light to power more or less any screen size you choose. In fact, on screens of 120" or less, it can be too much light and may lead to eye strain unless you tone it down a bit. Fortunately, low lamp mode on the HW10 drops lumen output 32% to 477 lumens, which is still plenty of light for many screens in light-controlled rooms.

I would certainly agree with their assessment. In my room with the projector almost at max zoom, even the low bulb mode is too bright for me on my 118" Carada Brilliant White screen and I run with a manual iris setting of 50%. This is a good thing though, as all bulbs dim over time, so it gives me a lot of room to compensate for it.

From their RS2 review (the Pioneer is a rebranded RS2) they state 450 ANSI lumens in its "optimized" setting, so the HW10 should be quite a lot brighter.


Quote:
Originally Posted by SonyHome View Post

How does the picture from HW10 compare to any of these TVs I mentioned above? Does the brightness drop off greatly as you put few hundred hours in the lamp on HW10? Will I have troubles with 126" screen from 13' away? My HT will have no windows so I can totally control the light but I would like the option to watch in some light if possible.

Projectors have a different "look" to most TVs, so it's hard to say really. If you like the Sony look, you should get something similar with the HW10 though.

From what I've read, you will lose about 30% brightness in the first hundred hours or so with most projectors, and then it will be a gradual decline. There is more than enough brightness from the HW10 to compensate for that with most screen sizes though, and after approx. 120 hours viewing the only change I have made is going from 40% to 50% on the iris, running in the low bulb mode. I'm almost hoping that it does dim some more, as I'd like to use the auto iris, but I find it's too bright at times. (I wish there was a maximum setting for the iris, as it makes a good improvement to contrast)

With a projector, any amount of light will reduce the image quality. The black levels can only be as dark as the room is, so turning on a lighteven a very dim onecan have a big effect on image quality.

Certainly, if you do plan on having a light on (though I'm sure once you see how it looks you won't want to) there's no point in considering one of the JVCs and you want as much light as possible from the projector.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SonyHome View Post

From what I been reading it seems like regardless of price the quality of picture you get from these digital projectors are pretty equivalent although you may get less features. Do you agree with that?

I wouldn't agree with that at all. For a start, you have different technologies. LCD, LCoS and DLP which all have a different look to them. (LCoS looks like an upgraded version of LCD and DLP is quite different)

You then have the colour/tonal reproduction of the displays. Some are capable of very accurate colour, whereas others (like the older JVCs) are focused on simply producing the most vivid colours they can, rather than creating (to my eyes) a natural looking picture. Contrast is another pretty big difference between projectors, with some doing significantly better than others.
post #579 of 780
Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewfee View Post

Manufacturer's ratings are essentially meaningless. JVC's ratings are considered to be fairly conservative, whereas Sony's are more inflated. ProjectorCentral's calculations are based on the reviewed numbers where available, or the manufacturer's spec if not. They've reviewed the HW10 and not the FPJ1, so the numbers aren't comparable. I've also found that the calculator just isn't that reliable anyway.

From their HW10 review:

I would certainly agree with their assessment. In my room with the projector almost at max zoom, even the low bulb mode is too bright for me on my 118" Carada Brilliant White screen and I run with a manual iris setting of 50%. This is a good thing though, as all bulbs dim over time, so it gives me a lot of room to compensate for it.

From their RS2 review (the Pioneer is a rebranded RS2) they state 450 ANSI lumens in its "optimized" setting, so the HW10 should be quite a lot brighter.



Projectors have a different "look" to most TVs, so it's hard to say really. If you like the Sony look, you should get something similar with the HW10 though.

From what I've read, you will lose about 30% brightness in the first hundred hours or so with most projectors, and then it will be a gradual decline. There is more than enough brightness from the HW10 to compensate for that with most screen sizes though, and after approx. 120 hours viewing the only change I have made is going from 40% to 50% on the iris, running in the low bulb mode. I'm almost hoping that it does dim some more, as I'd like to use the auto iris, but I find it's too bright at times. (I wish there was a maximum setting for the iris, as it makes a good improvement to contrast)

With a projector, any amount of light will reduce the image quality. The black levels can only be as dark as the room is, so turning on a lighteven a very dim onecan have a big effect on image quality.

Certainly, if you do plan on having a light on (though I'm sure once you see how it looks you won't want to) there's no point in considering one of the JVCs and you want as much light as possible from the projector.


I wouldn't agree with that at all. For a start, you have different technologies. LCD, LCoS and DLP which all have a different look to them. (LCoS looks like an upgraded version of LCD and DLP is quite different)

You then have the colour/tonal reproduction of the displays. Some are capable of very accurate colour, whereas others (like the older JVCs) are focused on simply producing the most vivid colours they can, rather than creating (to my eyes) a natural looking picture. Contrast is another pretty big difference between projectors, with some doing significantly better than others.

andrewfee,
Given what you stated about lamp going dimmer do you think it makes sense to go with much higher gain screen than the Carada 1.4 gain? It sounds like you can always reduce the light output from HW10 but not necessary the other way depending on life stage of the lamp.

Also would this be an option for me if I want to go with FPJ1?

I'm sure there maybe some cons with having high grain screen approach. There usually is. What would the drawback be? Cost? Picture quality?

Thanks.
post #580 of 780
Higher gain screens have a more limited viewing angle and many have a more visible texture / shimmer to them. (the Carada BW seems to be an exceptionoverall it's the most neutral screen I found)

I'm running in the low bulb setting at 50% iris on the HW10, so there is plenty of room to compensate for any drop in brightness as it ages. First by opening up the iris, then putting the bulb into the higher brightness mode with the iris closed down, and finally opening up the iris in the high bulb mode.


I don't think the Pioneer has an iris at all, so all you have available is the high/low bulb setting, and high brightness on the Pioneer is dimmer than the Sony is on low according to ProjectorCentral's numbers.

So you would probably have to run the Pioneer on high to begin with, and just put up with it as the bulb dims. You also don't have the option of finer brightness adjustments with an iris like you do with the Sony.

You may find that high is too bright on the Pioneer initially, but low is too dim and there's no in-between. The HW10 has a very adjustable iris from 0-100 and two bulb settings which makes it very flexible.
post #581 of 780
Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewfee View Post

Higher gain screens have a more limited viewing angle and many have a more visible texture / shimmer to them. (the Carada BW seems to be an exception—overall it's the most neutral screen I found)

I'm running in the low bulb setting at 50% iris on the HW10, so there is plenty of room to compensate for any drop in brightness as it ages. First by opening up the iris, then putting the bulb into the higher brightness mode with the iris closed down, and finally opening up the iris in the high bulb mode.


I don't think the Pioneer has an iris at all, so all you have available is the high/low bulb setting, and high brightness on the Pioneer is dimmer than the Sony is on low according to ProjectorCentral's numbers.

So you would probably have to run the Pioneer on high to begin with, and just put up with it as the bulb dims. You also don't have the option of finer brightness adjustments with an iris like you do with the Sony.

You may find that high is too bright on the Pioneer initially, but low is too dim and there's no in-between. The HW10 has a very adjustable iris from 0-100 and two bulb settings which makes it very flexible.

Thanks for the information. I believe you are right about FPJ1 not having an iris. Is the adjustable iris on HW10 manual also or could you do that with remote? Some have complained about the noise that dynamic iris makes. Is that very noisy on HW10?

Thanks for all your information. I really appreciate them.
post #582 of 780
The iris is just a menu option that has Auto 1, Auto 2, Manual and Off settings.

Auto 1 tries to improve contrast while retaining good black levels. (and does a good job of it)
Auto 2 just tries to maximise contrast disregarding black level. (which works but I prefer a deeper black level rather than brighter images)
Manual lets you set it from 0-100
Off disables it. (obviously)

For Auto 1/2, you can also set it to Recommended, Fast or Slow.

I don't think I've heard the iris at work at all when watching a filmthe only time I've noticed it is changing the settings from auto to manual or off if it's a big change. (e.g. 50 to 100 when you're switching from manual to off)

That said, I tend to leave it on manual just now as it makes bright scenes too bright for my room on auto just now.
post #583 of 780
Just curious if any of you have or tried a similar setup:

Screen - Gray 1.1 Gain - 120"
Room - Width 12' x Length 20'
Projector to be ceiling mounted above first row of seating around 15'

After several hours of usage is the Sony still bright? I just want to makesure that if I buy this projector it can handle this room setup.
post #584 of 780
Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewfee View Post

The iris is just a menu option that has Auto 1, Auto 2, Manual and Off settings.

Auto 1 tries to improve contrast while retaining good black levels. (and does a good job of it)
Auto 2 just tries to maximise contrast disregarding black level. (which works but I prefer a deeper black level rather than brighter images)
Manual lets you set it from 0-100
Off disables it. (obviously)

For Auto 1/2, you can also set it to Recommended, Fast or Slow.

I don't think I've heard the iris at work at all when watching a filmthe only time I've noticed it is changing the settings from auto to manual or off if it's a big change. (e.g. 50 to 100 when you're switching from manual to off)

That said, I tend to leave it on manual just now as it makes bright scenes too bright for my room on auto just now.

This is really tough choice. I had my eyes on HW10 since the start and thought it was the one but lack of power zoom and focus is bit of bummer. I wasn't even looking at Kuro FPJ1 but with it now being same price (actually FPJ1 is $500 cheaper if you buy both from Authorized dealer) as HW10 and from reading some reviews it seems like very good alternative. I guess it all comes down to trade offs.

Since I can't demo these locally all I can do is read information on this site and other review sites. For the most part from the images they post in the review it's really hard to tell too much difference in terms of picture quality.

Lack of lumen on the Kuro FPJ1 is a definite concern even though my HT should be totally light controlled and become black I would like to have some lights when watching football or playing PS3.

So choices are:
1. Sony HW10 @ $2300 (new but no warranty)
2. Kuro FPJ1 @ $2550 (new w/ 2 year warranty)
3. Panasonic AE300U @ $2200 (new from local dealer w/ 2 year warranty)

Panasonic is interesting since it has so many features w/ good picture and still very low price. Anyone compare these before you bought HW10? Any information you'd like to share?

Thank you.
post #585 of 780
Quote:
Originally Posted by SonyHome View Post

This is really tough choice. I had my eyes on HW10 since the start and thought it was the one but lack of power zoom and focus is bit of bummer. I wasn't even looking at Kuro FPJ1 but with it now being same price (actually FPJ1 is $500 cheaper if you buy both from Authorized dealer) as HW10 and from reading some reviews it seems like very good alternative. I guess it all comes down to trade offs.

Since I can't demo these locally all I can do is read information on this site and other review sites. For the most part from the images they post in the review it's really hard to tell too much difference in terms of picture quality.

Lack of lumen on the Kuro FPJ1 is a definite concern even though my HT should be totally light controlled and become black I would like to have some lights when watching football or playing PS3.

So choices are:
1. Sony HW10 @ $2300 (new but no warranty)
2. Kuro FPJ1 @ $2550 (new w/ 2 year warranty)
3. Panasonic AE300U @ $2200 (new from local dealer w/ 2 year warranty)

Panasonic is interesting since it has so many features w/ good picture and still very low price. Anyone compare these before you bought HW10? Any information you'd like to share?

Thank you.

What is the Pioneer Kuro FPJ1 the equvalent of again? JVC RS/HD __ ?
post #586 of 780
I've heard it's same as JVC RS2.
post #587 of 780
Quote:
Originally Posted by SonyHome View Post

I've heard it's same as JVC RS2.

Gotcha. Would be neat to find these in Canada, but I still don't think pricing will be all that great.
post #588 of 780
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpc View Post

Gotcha. Would be neat to find these in Canada, but I still don't think pricing will be all that great.

Oh they can be found in Canada. But for more than double what the states is selling them for.

I was recently offered a demo Pioneer Kuro FPJ1 for $6000 !!! I laughed out loud and walked away.

The Sony, on the other hand, I have found pricing somewhat more competitive. New I have found it for $3200.

If you find a better deal please let me know.

Is the warranty still valid if you buy from the States?
post #589 of 780
According to projector central, to make this work I would need a screen with at least a 1.2 Gain and have the projector mounted about 14 1/2 feet from the screen. Would this be in Eco or Torch mode?

Quote:
Originally Posted by tilallr1 View Post

Just curious if any of you have or tried a similar setup:

Screen - Gray 1.1 Gain - 120"
Room - Width 12' x Length 20'
Projector to be ceiling mounted above first row of seating around 15'

After several hours of usage is the Sony still bright? I just want to makesure that if I buy this projector it can handle this room setup.
post #590 of 780
Has anyone noticed the defocus issue with this projector mentioned here:

http://www.avforums.com/forums/dlp-l...ons-etc-6.html

Starting to sound alot like the Epson 6500UB issue.
post #591 of 780
Quote:
Originally Posted by tilallr1 View Post

Oh they can be found in Canada. But for more than double what the states is selling them for.

I was recently offered a demo Pioneer Kuro FPJ1 for $6000 !!! I laughed out loud and walked away.

The Sony, on the other hand, I have found pricing somewhat more competitive. New I have found it for $3200.

If you find a better deal please let me know.

Is the warranty still valid if you buy from the States?

Just ordered FPJ1. After lengthy consideration I decided to give a FPJ1 a shot as my first projector since so many people on this forum is so high on it. And since so many people are so high on it then I figured I could maybe trade it for HW10, VW60 or VW80 with additional cash later if I didn't like it.

Main thing that kept me from HW10 is the lack of power zoom and focus. I think I would have been happy with the picture quality but lack of these conveniences just made this projector sound cheaply made.

I don't know. I'm already having second thoughts...
post #592 of 780
Quote:
Originally Posted by SonyHome View Post

Main thing that kept me from HW10 is the lack of power zoom and focus. I think I would have been happy with the picture quality but lack of these conveniences just made this projector sound cheaply made.

I don't know. I'm already having second thoughts...

VW60 has power zoom & focus and can be had for the same price as the HW10...
post #593 of 780
Or even less (check the sales thread)...
post #594 of 780
Quote:
Originally Posted by memnoch2 View Post

VW60 has power zoom & focus and can be had for the same price as the HW10...

I didn't see VW60 for any where near the price I could get for HW10. Also isn't the picture quality better on HW10? I think I would have been willing to pay little more premium for the VW80 for the Motion Flow but that doesn't seem to be sold in US and also their MSRP is way too high for my budget.
post #595 of 780
Well, my HW10 finally arrived, and I'm pleased to say, in one piece

Worked nicely out of the box but I would like to do something about the colors and brightness (I'm told cinema mode calibrated actually increases in brightness vs uncalibrated)

I'm using a HTPC to play PAL and NTSC DVDs, Blurays and mkv's. If the Oppo bluray player can be made region free for BR, I probably will switch to that.

With so many different formats, and the HW10 distinguishing between PC and bluray player for RGB 16-235 or 0-255 ranges, I'm at a loss where to start.

Should I make different settings for each format and source? I'm going to need more than the 3 user memories available. What calibration disc do I use? Video Essentials PAL, NTSC or Bluray? Or do I need all three?

I'm no expert on calibration, so help me along a bit here guys. Thanks!

Neko
post #596 of 780
So, is this thread quiet due to people being so happy with their new HW10's? or are there just not many of us?

I had a panny AE3000 for exactly 16 hours. It had convergence issues (minor) and a stuck blue pixel. Returned it for the Sony. Set the Sony up, and wow, its pretty impressive. Out of the box, i like the picture more, it is sharper and has better color in theater mode than the panny did in cinema 1. Also quite a bit brighter on my 110" screen.

I have noticed that the three modes are really identical in brightness, just different color temp for the most part.

I guess im just re-iterating all ofthe things said so far in this thread... but Just figured I would drop in and say Hi.

Second Sony projector now, as I had up till this point an HS60. Never thought I would become a 2 time Sony owner, guess they do something right (for me at least)

Hoping to perform a calibration with DVE and AVS HD. Looked at the convergence as well, think I am a little off at the moment as well, i'll tweak that after a short burn in period too.

Can't wait.
post #597 of 780
I'm a happy owner (especially now I have my Carada BW screen)!

I've done the greyscale calibration, but with the auto iris turned off. I'd love to hear people's thoughts on how to do a calibration that gives results intended to work with the auto iris. Also, I'm keen to hear how people have got on tweaking the auto iris settings in the service menu....
post #598 of 780
Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard Harnwell View Post

I'm a happy owner (especially now I have my Carada BW screen)!

I've done the greyscale calibration, but with the auto iris turned off. I'd love to hear people's thoughts on how to do a calibration that gives results intended to work with the auto iris. Also, I'm keen to hear how people have got on tweaking the auto iris settings in the service menu....

That's exactly what I wanted to know about grey scale calibration but failed to get definitive or authoritative answer (if there exists such a thing).

The "consensus" in different forums about this seems to be that calibration should be made with dynamic iris turned off. Also VPL-HW10 service manual instructs calibration to be made with dynamic iris set to off (see first post in the "Sony VPL-HW10 Owner's and Calibration Thread", edit: bummer that is THIS thread... oops).

It's been pretty quiet in HW10 threads lately. I guess we all are enjoying our purchases and hopefully pretty satisfied and without major problems.

Cheers!
post #599 of 780
Quote:
Originally Posted by tarking View Post

That's exactly what I wanted to know about grey scale calibration but failed to get definitive or authoritative answer (if there exists such a thing).

The "consensus" in different forums about this seems to be that calibration should be made with dynamic iris turned off. Also VPL-HW10 service manual instructs calibration to be made with dynamic iris set to off

Yep, that's the impression I got, but I'm not sure I understand the reasoning behind it. One of the steps in the greyscale calibration (if I remember correctly) is to set the brightness based on a percentage of the luminance at 100% IRE level. If that is set with DI turned off, and then it is turned on for normal viewing, is there a danger of shadow detail being crushed?


Quote:
Originally Posted by tarking View Post

It's been pretty quiet in HW10 threads lately. I guess we all are enjoying our purchases and hopefully pretty satisfied and without major problems.

Yep, that sounds very likely!
post #600 of 780
Happy owner! Haven't had time to calibrate much yet. But great out of the box.
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