Sony VPL-HW10 Owners AND Calibration Thread - Page 22

Hello,

SonyHome, thx for the information, i appreciate it. Is there a particular product/brand you or anyone else here has tried, that works well and has been used successfully? Thx!

I just use soft eye glass cloth I got from Pearl optical. Picked up few extra during my last eye exam. Just use the cloth to lightly clean the lens as needed.

I just ordered a refurb unit. Crossing my fingers, but couldn't pass up the price. I am now struggling with the screen. I ordered a Elite Cinentesion2 in the 1.0 grey (106" 16:9). I have full light control in basement with no windows. However, with the low lumens on this unit, I am wondering if I should go with the 1.1 white screen instead of the grey. Any opinions or suggestions?

Thanks

Jay Fro

Can anyone offer assistance please?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post16301319

TIA, Paul

How's your player connected HDMI, component,...? When you press Menu button how does HW10's menu look... in B/W or color?

Yes, I'm using an HMDI connection and when I select menu, the options are in color.

OK..how weird is this? My SVideo plug cam undone and this is the issue. Why would it play at all is beyond my knowledge.

All's back to normal now

Anyone know how to tell on the HW10 whether it is currently playing a PAL or NTSC signal?

I bought a new Marantz DV4001 DVD player for region free PAL support and it is working great but I'm curious as to whether it is outputting PAL straight or converting PAL to NTSC first. Since the HW10 can display both I can't tell which is happening. Also, the Marantz is not letting me into the TV Setting to force one or the other.

Menu then up on the remote will tell you what format is currently being played.

PAL will be 25/50Hz.

I love this projector. My room is a totally dedicated room with & complete light control. Is this the right screen for this projector. In brilliant white.


http://www.carada.com/ProductInfo.as...N-SCREEN-H110P


Thanks for your help

I have a 118" Carada BW and it looks great with my HW10.

On a scale from 1-10 what would you give it?

Well I only have experience with Carada and Da-Lite samples and this is the only full screen I've used, so I don't know how I could rate it.

It's the most neutral screen I could find in my price range though, with it being neutral spectrally, and having a very smooth finish compared to most other materials.

If I could have fit it in my room, I would have preferred a Criterion rather than a Precision series screen, but that would have meant the picture was ≈10% smaller. (the screen is practically touching the side walls here)

So maybe an 8 or a 9, but I really don't know how it compares to a wider range of screens. (particularly higher end which have fancy coatings)

@ KABAL 223
Hello Kabal i'm Antonio from Italy, could you tell me your presets for the color "red"? Do you use CINEMA, STANDARD or DYNAMIC? the IRIS, COLOR MODE, COLOR TEMP....

Thanks. . . .. it is helpfull. The Carada is just within my budget so I'll report back as soon as I have everthing set up.

Is anyone using a Carada Classic Cinema White? I'm thinking about getting a HW10, but my screen size will be 92" (1.78:1) or less in a light controlled room. I expect this PJ to be quite bright at that size and would think the brilliant white would be too bright. What's the criteria for choosing btw the classic and brilliant with an hw10?

Hello everyone....My question about the hw10 is how is the lag or motion blur... i like to watch alot of pro football in HD would this projector work... from all your remarks it sound great, but that is a main concern for me... the only other PJ i am looking at is the epson 6500u with FI... how do the two compare...

thanks

This projector is better than epson 2000?

Is the 2000 the same as the 6500ub.

Hi everyone,

I recently spent a good deal of time calibrating my projector with an eye-one device and colorHCFR. I am getting very good colour and colour temperature readings (flat track of 6500k from 10-100 with delta e less than 2 from 20-100% and less than 10 for 10%), but can't seem to get the gamma anywhere near tracking a 2.2 curve. I think this may be due to my poor viewing environment (perfect light control but glossy white paint walls, a white ceiling, white carpet etc). Gamma is close to 2.2 at the lower luminance levels, but quickly falls off as luminence increases. Is this just something i will have to deal with (i cant modify the viewing environment much as i rent) or is there another problem im missing?

I'm envious of the perfect gamma tracks some of you are posting and wonder what i have to do to get one myself...

Edit: For examples, see two posts down...

Are you measuring with the iris on? Using the same tools, I was able to measure a flat gamma only with the iris off.

Iris set to manual but opened all the way to maximum...doesn't change with light intensity...

I will include screens of my calibration results below:

What User Mode are you in? I would suggest Cinema or User 3.
Plus, try taking readings with Iris OFF instead of Manual @ 100. I found out the hard way that they can have different white balance presets in the Service Menu.

I would be surprized if the room effected your readings THAT much, but if they are white and glossy it may be. How far away from the screen is your meter when taking measurements? Sounds like you might be in a very small, square room. If so, You could try a LOW lamp setting so you aren't creating as bright secondary reflections.

You could get a handle on what is potentially happening by taking a look in the Service menu under W/B for each of the color temp settings (HIGH, MIDDLE, LOW, CUSTOM1. CUSTOM2 & CUSTOM3) just make sure you note which Iris mode you are in since those values can/will change depending on whether you are in OFF, MANUAL or Auto.

@Dr. Spankenstein:

Thanks so much for your suggestions.

You got it pretty much right; the room is small and square. About 3.2m * 3.2m. Bulb already in low light mode as screen is only 92" (big for a small room though :-D). There's not a lot of ideal in my setup...

Screen about...let's say 5-10cm (2-4 inches) from the meter. I did the calibration using Curt Palme's guide (http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457)...meter was adjusted for max light output, though I didn't move it up or down as this wasn't really possible the way I set it up. Still, was getting plenty of light output and adjusted it for the max I could get moving it left and right, closer and further from the screen (meter was about 1/3 of the way up the window in the middle of the screen on the Rec709 disc available on these forums).

I've been wondering if my service mode adjustments are different to other people's? I'm in Australia, it's possible they adjust them differently here. You mention you found out that there can be different white balance presets in service mode? I am already using User mode 3 with the color adjusted to flatten out on 6500k with the correct amounts of R/G/B. I had to add a LOT of red to the gain (that's the one on top, not bias, right? It's at about 26 out of a possible 30) to get it like that, is that normal? I read somewhere that projection bulbs are often red deficient, but most settings I've seen didn't need that much added...still, room setups influence these things a lot I imagine...

I will try it again with the iris switched off though. I left it on as I read somewhere it changes calibration a bit between switching it on and off, but that keeping it at a constant value shouldn't affect things...?

Every projector has different values in service menu because those settings are used to calibrate the projector in the factory and every projector is different.

NOTE(!): If you change any values in service menu write down the values before you change them because once you do change and save them there's no going back - there is no factory defaults or any kind of memory or reset for them.

With HW10 it is normal that you'll need to add a lot of red gain. This however can cause ill side effects like purplish hue in high intensity whites. You'll be better off to lower blue/green gain instead of increasing red gain. A good guide on how to adjust white balance can be found in the first post of the thread (the method used by Sony factories/service centers taken from HW10 service manual)... just use user bias/gain settings found in normal menu instead of service menu settings.

I've found out that if I use Auto Iris then Gamma 1 gives me about 2.2 - 2.3 gamma (average) and if Auto Iris is off then Gamma 3 is close to 2.2 - 2.3 (average).

I've included my white balance and gamma curve after calibration was made using these settings: Cinema mode, Iris off, Gamma 3, Low lamp. As you can see my gamma is not flat 2.2 and I honestly do not know how I'd be able to do so.

EDIT: You have to set contrast and brightness before making WB calibration. In my case the Sony defaults were perfect. Have you changed them from the defaults?

the blacks bars are really black? are blacker?

I am set to receive my projector thursday but won't get around to set it up until saturday. Is the first post still the best starting point for this projector? It hasn't been updated in quite sometime, as I see he decided to abandon the thread.

Ok, something weird on my unit... do I have to warm up the projector first to show the right colors?

Why Im asking this? well, I just installed a air conditioning system in my room and I like the room really cool, now (of course) the projector is really cool also and well ventilated, but the colors doesnt seem to be accurate, all have a blue tint (especially the reds), the only way to fix this is warm up the projector first and turn off (or raise the temperature) the air conditioning system.

Is this normal?, I mean, too cool is bad for the projector?

Thanks!

(btw, sorry for my bad english, im from spain)

Im using:

Color mode: normal
Color temp: Custom 3 (blue bias -5)
Iris: auto 2

In my unit it take´s about half an hour for the colours to settle. It´s watchable after 10 minutes of warming though.