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Sony VPL-HW10 Owners AND Calibration Thread - Page 26

post #751 of 780
Seems our HW10 is getting close to needing a new bulb, (now the Replace Lamp warning came on with 2,640 hours on the bulb).

I have ordered the replacement lamp LMPH201 through our original vendor, _ _ _.

How long could it be safe to leave the original lamp in after the Replace Lamp warning comes on? ( I ran the original bulb to 3,000 hours)

Sony recommends immediately it seems, could it cause damage? The picture is still quite watchable, I have gone to the High lamp setting (Actually toggled between high / low, left it mostly in low).

post #752 of 780
Needing another lamp and was wondering about the various OEM replacement lamps. Are they just as good? Do they last as long and give out the light as regular Sony replacements?
post #753 of 780
Thread Starter 
My lamp replacement warning came on at 2750 hours.

I have a replacement lamp and I am wondering how long I might be able to go before any risk of lamp bursting.

I also thought about just keeping the old lamp as an emergency lamp if the replacement would prematurely fail.

Hmmmm.... Opinions?

I should take some measurements to see how the projector performance changes with the new lamp. I am expecting the projector to be brighter, contrast to go up and color to shift. I'm just not sure how dramatic each area will change with the lamp replacement.

post #754 of 780
Originally Posted by Bytehoven View Post

I have a replacement lamp and I am wondering how long I might be able to go before any risk of lamp bursting.

Hmmmm.... Opinions?


Still with this thing?
Me too, though I'm avaricious.

Take the measurements. Swap the lamp, keep the old one for backup. Take new measurements and post here.

post #755 of 780
Thread Starter 
Originally Posted by tvted View Post

Still with this thing?
Me too, though I'm avaricious.

Take the measurements. Swap the lamp, keep the old one for backup. Take new measurements and post here.


Yes.... the HW10 has been very good to us. Still looks great. No problems. 2750 hours before the relamp message, with most viewing in HIGH lamp mode, not too bad.

I haven't visited AVS in awhile, so I don't even know what's out there now.

I should probably not look.

post #756 of 780
I've had my hw10 for a little more than a year now and the fan is not only a little loud but have now also started making a "clicking" noice which is very annoying. Is it possible to get a hold of a replacement fan and do this myself? I really don't want to send it and then have to wait for weeks. Probably no warranty either.
post #757 of 780
We had the clicking noise early on, seemed to go away after warmup. If you are under warranty, have them check it.

I opened our VW10 and found there are 3 cooling fans, the one in the middle was the culprit, The additional information could damage your projector, burn you or cause death. I carefully removed, "reset" the mount sort of, squeezed the rubberized motor mounts together, reinstalled while open and tested, it solved the issue.
post #758 of 780
I had my machine for 1 year and 2 months, so I called Sony and the support guy said that it was out of warranty and immidiately suggested that I should open it and make sure the fan was not loose. He was so quick to tell me that and it sounded like I wasn't the first one calling about this.
Anyway I opened it and looked around. I also found 3 fans and by listening to the clicking noise I also came to the conclusion that it was the middle fan that was the cause of this. I didn't dare to try to get to that fan though.
After a couple of days, I called the store where I had bought the projector. They said that on Sony projectors they give customers 2 years warranty. So I got a shipping slip and sent the projector in, free of charge. It's now being serviced.

Lesson learned, call the store.

The reason I didn't is that with my previous projectors, the manufacturer handled warranty themselves.
post #759 of 780
Hi to those of you who dared to open your projector up.

I am the owner of two HW15s and am using Dolby3d filters to do 3D stereo.

I assume the layout of HW15 is not very different from HW10.

At present the filters are outside the projectors, over the lens, but I had a thinking that they would better be inserted inside the projector, between the lamp and the SXRD panels, as Dolby/infitec do.

When I opened one up, I found that the whole beam path is enclosed in a somewhat plastic case that seems very difficult to open (if you dont want to break anything).

What I want is to open the plastic case to expose the fresnel/condenser lens assembly. Has anybody ever gone that far?

post #760 of 780

post #761 of 780

I have a couple of questions for people on the forum - I'm not sure if anyone will be able to help me, but I would greatly appreciate your assistance.

Recently our VPL-10W recently began to display the replace lamp/ clean filter message. I failed to take the warning seriously and delayed getting a new lamp.

Last week when I went to turn on the projecter it came up with the normal "starting" message then quickly flashed "HDMI 1" then cut out. Whatever I tried I couldn't get working. Then the next day magically it just started working again and did so for about a week.

The problem the started again a few days ago and I can't fix it.

I've been told the problem is most likely that the hours on the bulb have elapsed.

However I am in Australia and despite contacting a number of outlets- it seems it will be a couple of weeks before I can get a new one.

I would really like to be able to use the projector in the mean time.

I was advised to reset the hours on the projecter, but this isn't possible as the menu won't come up when its starting and as soon as its started it turns off.

I've also tried taking the lamp out and putting it back in but that does nothing.

Do I have any other options?

Many Thanks
post #762 of 780
Thread Starter 
You should be aware you are treading on dangerous waters. If you continue to operate the projector with the old lamp, you risk the possibility of a burst lamp.

IMHO, you should take your mild issues with your lamp replacement delay as a sign and stop using the projector until you get a new lamp.

Regarding a reset... I forget what menu option present itself when you install a new lamp. I hope someone else will comment.
post #763 of 780
Any good suggestions for where to buy a replacement lamp? I have been thinking about ordering one to have on hand, and see a wide range of prices. I'm thinking it's best to use the OEM bulb rather than some "OEM Equivalent" bulbs that I have seen.
post #764 of 780
Thread Starter 
When you shop, note they come with/without the cage.

I would recommend avoiding ebay and then call to confirm it's a Sony lamp.

I think you'll be in the mid $250 range for a OEM lamp.

BTW... I see you're in Newark. I'm in Wilmington.
post #765 of 780
Originally Posted by blackngold75 View Post

Any good suggestions for where to buy a replacement lamp?

Call one of the AVS guys, they usually have good prices.
post #766 of 780
Originally Posted by Bytehoven View Post

BTW... I see you're in Newark. I'm in Wilmington.

Thanks for the advice on the lamp. I didn't realize you were so close by. Kinda funny since it was this thread and some of your postings that convinced me to buy the VPL-HW10 in the first place. I really like this projector; upgraded from a VPL-HS60.
post #767 of 780
Thread Starter 
HS60 -> HW10 was the same upgrade path I took.

I hope to be having a number of parties in the new HT. I'll be sure to send you an invite to visit if you are available.

post #768 of 780
I recently purchased a 2nd hand HW10 with 640 hours on the lamp.

Generally, I'm very impressed.
The build, lens, shift knobs, menu system, signal switching speed, remote... all excellent.

I've come from a long line of DLPs, and do miss that superior ANSI contrast, razor-sharpness and fast motion refresh, but the Sony is still very good.

I've got a couple of questions if anyone would be kind enough to answer:
(and yes - I've already read through the threads)

1. What are the best settings for absolute deepest black level and highest possible contrast (while still remaining fairly accurate)?

2. I'm finding that the black level and gamma seem to change from one blu-ray to the next, forcing me to ride the Black Detail and Gamma settings each time.
I've never had to do this before.
Using a PS3 for playback and am wondering if the PS3s display settings are partly to blame...

Thanks in advance!
post #769 of 780
Being NYE, we have a party planned. The VPL-HW10 has been working well the last few years, low usage with lamp hours under 500 hours.

Now, all of a sudden, with NOTHING changed, all I get is a green screen when using HDMI or VGA inputs.

In trying to diagnose it...

1. I have tried different hdmi cables & input (HDMI1&2 same thing)

2. The screen goes to blue (no input) if the source is switched on. If the source is sending a signal, it goes green.

3. When green, the menu display etc still works fine

4. Component input works perfectly fine

PLEASE! Someone tell me what is wrong!
post #770 of 780
All fixed! Often it is the simple things!

I had tried so many sources and cables. Tried to find a way of factory reset. Went into the service menu. Searched all over the internet. Asked an expert technician. And just as I was about to fork out $900 for a new board repair...

I unplugged the projector for 5 minutes and the plugged it back in - it works!

post #771 of 780

I purchased my HW10 in March 2009, it is running the second lamp now (600 hours currently). Last week, I finally got hands on a Spyder4Pro, and happily started calibrating. However, I encountered a huge problem: the measurements for the HW10 are way out of range. For comparison, here is the graph from magnust (page 8 of this thread):
Originally Posted by magnust View Post

colortemp low. before calibration

Note that this is the pre-calibration measurement. And here comes mine, same settings:

Have you ever seen such measurements of a HW in cinema preset (default settings) before?

However, my personal visual experience of the image isn't that bad. So I recon it must have something to do with the calibration chain. I used HCFR (Win7x64 in WinXP-SP2 compatibility mode, because otherwise HCFR would crash) and a Spyder4Pro (Argyll drivers).

Any advice?

post #772 of 780
Hi there,

as a proof-check, I did the measurement again, this time with a DTP94 device.

The dashed lines show the measurement with the Spyder4Pro from my previous post as reference. Unfortunately, the numbers are almost the same frown.gif
Here are the settings:

Mode Cinema
Contrast 90
Bright 50
Color 50
Hue 50
Gamma Off
Iris Off
Lamp High
Temp Low

To the people in this thread who already measured/calibrated their HW10: Were your pre-calibration numbers as bad as mine?
post #773 of 780
Hi there,

I did another measurement, only this time I used the DTP94 in conjunction with dispcal-gui instead of HCFR. Here are the results:

While I do not fully understand this graph yet (because I didn't manage to find a proper documentation on the dispcal homepage), I think that the reported values are way better than the ones above from the HCFR software. Perhaps HCFR is somehow wrong configured here.

Well, anyway, I think I will leave my HW10 device as it is. I like the produced picture, and the experiences with different colorimeters and measurement software, respectively, somehow destroyed my trust in this whole open source calibration thingy.

By the way, is there actually anybody left here to read this? Did not get much response to my previous posts, so I feel somewhat left alone here in this precious HW10 thread wink.gif The heck with it! I learned quite a bit about calibration and I am satisfied with the picture anyway.

post #774 of 780
Thread Starter 
Hi... I'm reading your post, but have not had a HW10 for awhile now. Glad to hear you're having success with your project. Cheers
post #775 of 780
Thanks for your answer bytehoven - I was hoping that you're still around here. However, "success with the project" is a little overstated: Please note that all these measures from my three posts above have been done with the same picture settings, and I did not change anything from the default values yet.

Perhaps I should have posted these issues to the HCFR forum in the first place, rather than this one here, in order to get more advice on how to setup the measurement chain correctly.
post #776 of 780
Thread Starter 
I have not seen a IRE track like you 1st posted and then reposted after rechecking with the DTP94. But then again, I have never used the Spyder gear. I'd recommend you check to make sure you're following the proper set up for taking measurements with both the hardware and which ever software you decide to use.

By saving your starting point info, you can also get back to where you started.

I would say, if the IRE track you posted really does reflect the factory calibration, it's uniform divergence may contribute to your image quality observation. Even when calibration is wrong, if there is uniformity thru the IRE range, the image can appear decent. However, your track would indicate a sever BLUE shift in the lower IRE, dark image reproduction, while shifting to almost perfect 6500 at higher IRE, bright image reproduction. IMHO, there is something wrong with the way you took the measurement and that's why I'm saying make sure you're doing everything right. Input from any other owners of your hardware/software combination could help you make sure you're doing things right.

post #777 of 780
I replaced my lamp recently on my VPL-HW10 and I am getting a yellowish smear on the screen. It looks smeared because in some parts the white comes through and it looks like it is a rubbing smear. Any ideas what could cause this and how to fix?
post #778 of 780
Hi I bought this pj3 days ago second hand for 500 euro and jesus guys where is the black level . Really this pj is worse than my sanyo z700 , iam glad that I didn't pay for it full money its not worth almost 2k euro
Edited by anxion - 4/24/13 at 1:27am
post #779 of 780
very disappointment

Pls check this photo ala- good Black Levels, and I have grey screen as well , so thats very strange , my sanyo z700 fo 1k euro had better black

Edited by anxion - 4/23/13 at 4:04pm
post #780 of 780
Missing information: Which preset did you use? Also check the settings of iris, lamp mode etc...
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