My Batcave - MA rack, Rives designed room - Page 7

Sorry, only do holes.

Thanks for the updates, Mike! How were the pancakes?

I know it's not going to happen, and it's way too much to ask, but I do admit it would be nice to know how much better it looks to you between: calibrated RS20 without Lumagen, and RS20 calibrated with. (Because I'm going to presume the difference between uncalibrated stock RS20, and Lumagen-calibrated to be very significant).

Honestly, I'm pretty sure I will not upgrade PJ for a while, nor add such a pricey VP, but man would I like to know. Maybe I'll get around to asking which upgrade path is recommended in the PJ subforum. I am way more than happy with my black levels on the RS1, but I wouldn't mind some more color correction. Anyhoo, cheers!

Mike:

Would you do me a favor and show me a couple shots of your MA rack from the side with it "parked" in the wall, and one from the rear/side with it pulled out. I'm planning my MA rack and wnated to see how you fit yours and how much they allow the components to "stick out" from the rack standards.

Thanks, Scott

Hey Blue noodle, I mean Mike..... sorry, couldn't resist. These look much better and I too like the SDACC adjustable. a few thoughts:

1) I still wish these things had wider platforms for our center speakers I mean you'll have 4-5 inches of overhang on either side. Since they seem to do custom stuff maybe you can get them to put a wider plate on it for you. It shouldn't affect stability and if they say it does then I'd worry about stability with your speaker on it:
2) Where are the wire terminals on your speaker, the rear riser could get in the way of the wire or banana plugs/spades.
3) It doesn't say anything about what they weigh, might be worth knowing that AND if you can fill the posts or base with shot.
4) Finally, I would check with them on their dimensions, to me it was confusing, here's why, the web site says Overall Height 12.5", Platform Max height 17". Maybe that means the rear post is 12.5" and the extension rod can go up another 4.5".

I'm probably overly concerned about movement but after looking at the rest of your room/equipment/focus on getting it right maybe not. I remember in the past reading that 80% of all the sound will come through your center (I don't think that means that 20% comes from the other 4/6 just that almost everything flows through your center). That might be high but not that far off. Take that number and then think about how hard speaker companies work on managing resonances and there probably should be more effort put behind having a rock solid CC stand.

I like a lot about these and as I've read through it (like the VCC5) they seem to be able to do some custom stuff. It might be worth calling them and seeing if you can get the adjustable done with the dampening they have in the VCC5 (or the ability to add your own), maybe with a wider base and platform. If they could do that you might have a winner.

Are you worried about wire managment (ie being able to hide it) or is that not an issue?

Thanks Mike. I was wanting to see it closed but I didn't realize you had a rack "door". So...nevermind . I'm building mine "open faced" into the wall.

Mike. Answers seem pretty good. I did look at the studio stand too at first but missed the adjustable component to it. Also didn't see the spikes but they say those can be there - might want to make sure they provide them.Sounds like these guys will do whatever you want them to do and being able to fill them will be great. So the only other thing - I'm sounding like a broken record - about this one that I didn't like was that there didn't seem to be anything stopping the speaker from potentially sliding back. The pads may negate that and if you aren't tilting it a lot this may be no issue at all but just a thought. I think I mentioned before I was really suprised how little I tilted my center to get it aligned with the raised back row. But on the otherhand I have a stage and I don't think you will have one so you might have more of a tilt.

Seems like you've got a winner. Maybe you can photoshop your speaker on the stand to see what it will look like ....

Mike. Truely my pleasure. Wish I would have found these guys before I bought. I also may be asking you some questions in the future. I'd only make one more comment from their feedback. I'd stay with the shot vs. silica. While you probably wouldn't use enough to truely be at risk, silica can cause silicosis which is caused by the inhalation of silica dust. In addition is is a pain to clean up if you spill or ever have to empty it and while lead isn't the best thing for the environment for what you are doing I wouldn't be so concerned.

Perfect, thanks.

Can't wait to see it in place, will you be figuring a way to incorporate the blue noodle



Oh man, I was hoping you'd get the version that would accept the toxic nuclear waste...

Here's what I've used and pros/cons - personal viewpoint.

* Special stuff - tried 2 different things many years ago. While I felt cool it wasn't worth the $

* Cat Liter - Filled speaker pedastals with this. Put a garbage back in stand and pored it in. worked well but dusty and created a mess later in life when I need to make some changes and the bags torn. But for Large Volumes it was a better value the other stuff. Not as dense but good value.

* Sand - I actuall did this before the cat litter and ran into moisture issue. My stuff was in the basement and even though it was a walk out the humidity was high and it caused real problems with rusting a rod that was in the pedastal and warped it. That's what let me to cat liter and bagging.

* Lead shot - We've discussed. BTW, you can get it at Gander Moutain in large bags. I used one per pedastal. Don't know what the cubic size would be compared to yours.

* Steel shot - look at it at Dick's sporting goods and Gander. These are basicailly bb's for bb guns. It was more expensive than lead and I'm not an evironmentalist