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Can a sub be placed in a cabinet or does it need to be exposed in the open?

post #1 of 13
Thread Starter 
My wife is having a built in and she asked..........
a) If I could have the subwoofer put on the other side of the room (behind if your sitting watching TV) I figured this is a "no."
b) If the contractor makes a cabinet big enough to hid it so you can't see it.

I think I have a Bic-100.
post #2 of 13
I don't know about enclosing it, but people put them behind their seating positions (and out of sight) all the time with no problems at all.
post #3 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by golfwolf View Post

My wife is having a built in and she asked..........
a) If I could have the subwoofer put on the other side of the room (behind if your sitting watching TV) I figured this is a "no."
b) If the contractor makes a cabinet big enough to hid it so you can't see it.

I think I have a Bic-100.

The only way this is workable is if the sub is front-firing and if ported, front-ported. Otherwise, it's a terrible idea. And even if you have a front-firing/front-ported sub, it is not at all ideal for several reasons. One being the inability to optimize the subs location.

Behind, as fireman said, is common.
post #4 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by golfwolf View Post

My wife is having a built in and she asked..........
a) If I could have the subwoofer put on the other side of the room (behind if your sitting watching TV) I figured this is a "no."
b) If the contractor makes a cabinet big enough to hid it so you can't see it.

I think I have a Bic-100.

This is a good opp to do a built-in DIY.

Bill
post #5 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by sivadselim View Post

The only way this is workable is if the sub is front-firing and if ported, front-ported. Otherwise, it's a terrible idea. And even if you have a front-firing/front-ported sub, it is not at all ideal for several reasons. One being the inability to optimize the subs location.

Behind, as fireman said, is common.

What about if you optimized the sub's location first and then built cabinetry around it, while keeping the sub sitting on the floor, do you think that would work? Also, what do you think the minimum clearance should be around the left/right/top of the sub?
post #6 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by KnowledgeSeeker View Post

What about if you optimized the sub's location first and then built cabinetry around it, while keeping the sub sitting on the floor, do you think that would work? Also, what do you think the minimum clearance should be around the left/right/top of the sub?

I wouldn't put a rear-firing or down-firing port or driver in any enclosure.
post #7 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by sivadselim View Post

I wouldn't put a rear-firing or down-firing port or driver in any enclosure.

That wasn't what I was suggesting, sorry I wasn't more clear. My questions were in regard to sealed front firing subs.
post #8 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by KnowledgeSeeker View Post

That wasn't what I was suggesting, sorry I wasn't more clear. My questions were in regard to sealed front firing subs.

It's probably not optimal, but I would think that a sealed, front-firing sub could be completely enclosed, although one would want to be able to somehow access the back of the sub. A concern might be a recessed driver, but as long as the driver was flush with the wall or front of the cabinetry it would probably be fine. But still constrained to one single location.

I don't know what your project is, exactly, but you might want to consider an infinite baffle (IB) setup.
post #9 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by sivadselim View Post

It's probably not optimal, but I would think that a sealed, front-firing sub could be completely enclosed, although one would want to be able to somehow access the back of the sub. A concern might be a recessed driver, but as long as the driver was flush with the wall or front of the cabinetry it would probably be fine. But still constrained to one single location.

I don't know what your project is, exactly, but you might want to consider an infinite baffle (IB) setup.

Actually, my project will be similar to the OP. I have 2 subs (I'm reading your other threads on calibrating 2 subs with great interest) that have to go along the rear wall behind the listening position due to WAF. IB is not an option. I can place them anywhere I want along that wall to optimize their positions first, with the understanding that eventually, cabinetry will be built around them to hide all but the front of them. Among the many things I'm trying to understand is, if the front of the subs are even with or are slightly beyond the cabinetry that will be built around them, does it matter what the minimum clearance is to the left/right/top of them?
post #10 of 13
I measured the difference of placing my rear subwoofers in a cabinet once. The cabinets are actually Helmholtz Resonators, They are very large, and no insualtion was used with the graph while they are in the enclosures. I had to turn the gain up on the subwoofers to max. I also had to use some different amplifiers that had gain control. Here are a few of them from my testing. The difference of the rear position or the enclosed position was slightly less than the length of the subwoofer since I had to fire them slightly upwards because I was not willing to remove framing inside the enclosure. Adding insulation decreased the gain so much, it was impractical. What I learned is that for a subwoofer going inside of an enclosure, you need a very loud subwoofer. Adding a hole for the subwoofer to fire out of might help also. These were rear ported also. Room is 20'X13.5'X8.6' and the front subs are not actually in the corners, just close to them. I would not expect to ever see any benifit of them being corner loaded inside of a cabinet. The results I heard/felt was lots of pressure from the enclosures in the back of the room, and lots of flanking up my back wall. Placing them inside a cabinet is a last resort. Fortunately, I found a different solution than to doing this. "enclosed 1" is front subs, 'allsubsenclosed2" is all subs including the rear ones in the enclosure and "allsubscorner" is a sub in each corner without an enclosure. The only adivise I have really is to try something else, or get a subwoofer desinged to go in a cabinet if yours is not.
LL
LL
LL
post #11 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveMo View Post

I measured the difference of placing my rear subwoofers in a cabinet once. The cabinets are actually Helmholtz Resonators, They are very large, and no insualtion was used with the graph while they are in the enclosures. I had to turn the gain up on the subwoofers to max. I also had to use some different amplifiers that had gain control. Here are a few of them from my testing. The difference of the rear position or the enclosed position was slightly less than the length of the subwoofer since I had to fire them slightly upwards because I was not willing to remove framing inside the enclosure. Adding insulation decreased the gain so much, it was impractical. What I learned is that for a subwoofer going inside of an enclosure, you need a very loud subwoofer. Adding a hole for the subwoofer to fire out of might help also. These were rear ported also. Room is 20'X13.5'X8.6' and the front subs are not actually in the corners, just close to them. I would not expect to ever see any benifit of them being corner loaded inside of a cabinet. The results I heard/felt was lots of pressure from the enclosures in the back of the room, and lots of flanking up my back wall. Placing them inside a cabinet is a last resort. Fortunately, I found a different solution than to doing this. "enclosed 1" is front subs, 'allsubsenclosed2" is all subs including the rear ones in the enclosure and "allsubscorner" is a sub in each corner without an enclosure. The only adivise I have really is to try something else, or get a subwoofer desinged to go in a cabinet if yours is not.


SteveMo,
Thank you for your detailed response. The 2 subs I have are sealed and front firing (yours was rear ported), and would be sitting on the floor, not sitting on the bottom of a cabinet. We would just be building cabinetry around the 3 sides of them (right/top/left), with the driver side of the subs either even with or extended slightly beyond the cabinetry. Do you think I need to have any particular minimum clearances so as not to impact the sound too much? Understanding this may also help the OP.
post #12 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by KnowledgeSeeker View Post

SteveMo,
Thank you for your detailed response. The 2 subs I have are sealed and front firing (yours was rear ported), and would be sitting on the floor, not sitting on the bottom of a cabinet. We would just be building cabinetry around the 3 sides of them (right/top/left), with the driver side of the subs either even with or extended slightly beyond the cabinetry. Do you think I need to have any particular minimum clearances so as not to impact the sound too much? Understanding this may also help the OP.

I don't think that a minimum clearance would be required. If you wanted to extend the size of the cabinet some then add some internal bracing that would help since you only have three sides. The cabinet should not be in contact with the walls. People hear in resonance and SPL so if it is making the wall have resonace that would be worse than the cabinet. The larger the size the lower the resonance but then you might have to add lots of insulation and room for the cabinet itself to breath so not too large. I beleave also that Rives uses two layers of different density for thier cabinet installations.
post #13 of 13
Typical women she’s just been awkward. It would rattle like hell ask if she wants it rattling and buzzing.

Those graphs looked interesting SteveMo
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