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Comcast says TV interfering w/cable box [Backlight interferes w/ remote] - Page 2

post #31 of 73
So Comcast was right after all . . . Too bad they didn't know about the little trick to fix it, but I guess you can't blame them for that
post #32 of 73
will this work for interference on a Remote IR receiver in a seperate room? Instead of buying the more expensive Plasma proof Receiver? (which work great, but I have 2 regular ones that I can use for free)
post #33 of 73
Quote:
Originally Posted by tism View Post

So Comcast was right after all . . . Too bad they didn't know about the little trick to fix it, but I guess you can't blame them for that

Cox doesn't know about it either nor does Motorola, or Toshiba in my case. At the least they're playing "dumb" about it, maybe they DO know and won't do anything about it so they deny it exists.
post #34 of 73
Quote:
Originally Posted by realred2 View Post

will this work for interference on a Remote IR receiver in a seperate room? Instead of buying the more expensive Plasma proof Receiver? (which work great, but I have 2 regular ones that I can use for free)

While they may not be as affected, plasmas are not immune to the problem. How do you have a IR receiver in another room, do mean RF? An IR receiver in another room couldn't be, shouldn't be affected by the IR interference put out by the TV in another room.
post #35 of 73
RNG200? The infrared receiver on it is a POS.

Ah dang.. now I see it a Moto box. Above is still true though.
post #36 of 73
I'm in Roseville, MN, about 20 miles from Slick26 in Burnsville, and I had the same problem. I spent 12 hours trying to correct it before discovering this thread. A small piece of Post-It note covering the IR oval on the Motorola DCH3200 cable box has now ended the problem.

But, in the past week I've spent 4 1/2 hours on the phone with Comcast. 2 1/2 hours of that was waiting on hold. I also made 5 trips to Comcast offices picking up equipment and replacement equipment. No one at Comcast had any idea what the problem could be. How is that possible? If you check the links posted above on this thread, you can see that the issue is common and and has been known about for years. Is Comcast just trying to generate fees from service calls? (One Comcast person told me that each time I picked up another remote someone had added a charge to my bill ... which he removed.)

Here's what happened to me. In January I bought a Samsung 32" HD LCD TV (LN32A450) and upgraded from Comcast digital to Comcast HD service. I traded in my old Motorola cable box for the new HD box (Motorola DCH3200). Everything worked perfectly. But, a few weeks later I decided to return the 32" Samsung and get the next size larger, the 37" (LN37A450). I put the new TV in the same location as the old, and hooked up all the cables in the same way. Everything worked for a few hours. Then the remote stopped functioning, except for volume and mute controls.

That led to a week of wasted time and frustration, which a Post-It note has now ended. Comcast sucks!!!

I have just one remaining issue. Even though I put the Samsung code into the Comcast remote, volume and mute controls work poorly. I have to try several times before they will work. Any advice out there?
post #37 of 73
Just FYI, see this I posted on a similar thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...9#post15706939

Quote:
Originally Posted by Able Freeman View Post

But, in the past week I've spent 4 1/2 hours on the phone with Comcast. 2 1/2 hours of that was waiting on hold. I also made 5 trips to Comcast offices picking up equipment and replacement equipment. No one at Comcast had any idea what the problem could be. How is that possible?

Like I have said for decades now, especially these days, all tech support sucks. They are not trained, and "read from a guidebook on-the-fly". And remember, usually somewhere in SE Asia.

Quote:


Is Comcast just trying to generate fees from service calls? (One Comcast person told me that each time I picked up another remote someone had added a charge to my bill ... which he removed.)

Possibly. But if they charged you anything, you need to get your money back. You, (we all) that are using cable from a cable co. are renting their equipment and what comes with that rental fee is service. Since so many millions have flat panel HDTV's now, I find it hard to believe the providers and suppliers haven't caught on to this yet. Obviously something is going to have to be done, either with the HDTV manufacturers (in researching some kind of "filter" for the screens), or cable box manufacturers in researching some kind of "filter" for the remote sensor panel. Of course, each will blame the other for the problem and say it's the other's fault and their obligation to fix it. I'm just glad there's a simple fix for it on our end, and if we can do it, certainly they can do it.

Quote:


I put the new TV in the same location as the old, and hooked up all the cables in the same way. Everything worked for a few hours. Then the remote stopped functioning, except for volume and mute controls.

That's doesn't make any sense. What would make it suddenly stop working? Did you change any settings on the TV?

Quote:


I have just one remaining issue. Even though I put the Samsung code into the Comcast remote, volume and mute controls work poorly. I have to try several times before they will work. Any advice out there?

Sounds like you need "more filter". Try another Post-It note, or two. Or layer(s) of plain white paper which worked for me.
post #38 of 73
"That's doesn't make any sense. What would make it suddenly stop working?"

I think it stopped functioning because the TV was interfering with the remote signal (as described in this thread). The better question is: why didn't the 32" Samsung also cause the problem with the remote? I don't know. Perhaps because it is smaller and generates less EMF?

Regarding my last remaining issue with the volume and mute controls on the remote, I found one more Samsung code and fed that to the Comcast remote. Now the mute and volume controls work perfectly. Whew!

Thanks to all for sharing the simple solution to this very frustrating problem.
post #39 of 73
Quote:
Originally Posted by Able Freeman View Post

"That's doesn't make any sense. What would make it suddenly stop working?"

I think it stopped functioning because the TV was interfering with the remote signal (as described in this thread).

Obviously, but no you don't understand. The operative word there is "suddenly". Why was it working fine "for a few hours", then suddenly stop.

Quote:
The better question is: why didn't the 32" Samsung also cause the problem with the remote? I don't know. Perhaps because it is smaller and generates less EMF?

Settings, screen size, brand, model, etc. Each TV is going to generate a different amount, and possibly different type of interference.

Quote:
Regarding my last remaining issue with the volume and mute controls on the remote, I found one more Samsung code and fed that to the Comcast remote. Now the mute and volume controls work perfectly. Whew!

That's also strange, and interesting to know. I've never heard of codes for a uni-remote working partially! Operating more or less buttons yes, but not still working buttons but acting sluggish or like the batteries were weak. That's good to know.
post #40 of 73
OK, I don't know why it worked for a few hours. It apparently stopped because of the interference problem, but why it worked at first I don't know. I was actually channel surfing with the favorites button (through several channels) when it suddenly stopped working.

Over the next several days I disconnected power from the Comcast box (for minutes or hours) a few times. Each time after I powered it back up it worked for a few minutes before stopping. I imagine there's a logical explanation for this, but I don't know it.

As to the mute and volume controls, with the wrong code I could mute the TV with the mute button, and un-mute it with the volume-down button (after a few tries). But, that's about all that worked. With the new (right) code, both mute and volume function perfectly. (By the way, the Comcast remote-control guide says the TV LED will blink twice after you've entered the correct code. Not in my case. It didn't blink twice for any code.)
post #41 of 73
My Sammies don't like Dish codes either for volume..seems the the factory remote must machine gun the signal...because the dish buttons will only raise ONE step at a time...if at all.....
post #42 of 73
FINALLY =] I joined two other forums (Audioholics and HighDef), but couldn't find this solution. I can't wait to try this at home. BTW, HDTV = Toshiba 46XV545U and STB = Motorola DCH3200. Thanks guys!
post #43 of 73
Depending on how you think the picture looks turning down the backlight(if that is an option) will also sometimes solve the problem with motorola cable boxes.
post #44 of 73
Wow, it looks like the Motorola DCH-3200 is a common thread with these problems.

I have a 2007 Samsung LN-T3242 LCD and posted my IR interference problem in that thread - people said that it has been a problem with newer Samsungs, but no one had heard about it with the '07 models. I had no problems with an older Motorola STB, plus 2 DVD players. But this happened with a Bose CD player a while back and I figured it was the Bose. Now, I hook up the DCH-3200 and I get the interference.

I'll try the masking tape and/or folded paper ideas. Thanks for the solutions! Also, thanks for letting me know where the IR eye is on the box!
post #45 of 73
Wow,
Worked for me.
Tape over the IR receiver.
Google is my friend.
Thanks AVS.
post #46 of 73
My story is similar to all of the others...except. remote has been working forever...4 yrs NO PROBLEM, then all of a sudden....BAM!!!!! Had Comcast out twice, exchanged boxes got an updated Motorolla (there are benefits to everything), still the same problem. Thought of everything frequency and all, then got online and looked here. The thing that fixed the problem was a post it note over the IR receiver on the Motorolla DVR. Fine, I can tell everyone the fix, but like Clint, I want to know why. Everything was the same and could not figure out why it was doing this until I read about Backlight. I recently re calibrated the Plasma! for a better picture. The picture is better, but now I use a post it note as a filter. Not a big problem! My guess is that by recalibrating the picture, making it brighter, it emmitted more light which interfered with the IR on the DVR.

Will at some point recalibrate the picture and see if it works without the paper as a filter, but for now I am a happy camper again!
post #47 of 73
Utilize IR, not RF. This will correct the IR interference problem.

Switch the DVR (if able) from IR to RF mode then reprogram your remote if you have an RF-capable remote.

Newer directv remotes are RF capable, I'm unaware of other companies.
post #48 of 73
Quote:
Originally Posted by jreagle18 View Post

Utilize IR, not RF. This will correct the IR interference problem.

Switch the DVR (if able) from IR to RF mode then reprogram your remote if you have an RF-capable remote.

Newer directv remotes are RF capable, I'm unaware of other companies.

I think you need to read over all this again. IR is the problem, not RF. The interference being put out by the HDTV screens is interfering with IR frequencies, not RF.
post #49 of 73
Quote:
Originally Posted by jreagle18 View Post


Switch the DVR (if able) from IR to RF mode then reprogram your remote if you have an RF-capable remote.

Newer directv remotes are RF capable, I'm unaware of other companies.

agreed an RF remote is often a better solution: but some boxes, even if switched to RF remote mode, still have the IR eye active, and still can suffer from IR noise overload, and thus may still need the fix

nothing wrong in these tough economic times to to fix something with a piece of tape if that resolves the issue
post #50 of 73
Masking tape solved this problem for me.
post #51 of 73
I had a similar issue with a satellite box not that long ago... Believe it or not, it was the CFL bulbs i had in the lamps in the room causing the interference. Took me a week to figure that one out...
post #52 of 73
I've been having this problem with my 2-day old Tivo HD. I've never had any trouble with any other devices, including Moto STB's and pre Series3 Tivo's.

I don't have any CFL's in that room (wow I hope LED's are better than CFL's, otherwise I'm going back to candles after they criminalize incandescent bulb use). The problem in my case appears to be caused by the auto-brightness sensor on my older LCD television, but I haven't quite isolated that as the cause yet.
post #53 of 73
Quote:
Originally Posted by Topmounter View Post

(wow I hope LED's are better than CFL's, otherwise I'm going back to candles after they criminalize incandescent bulb use).

Are you referring to lightbulbs or backlights for LCD TV's?

Backlights are "CCFL" with traditional LCD TV's.

Anyway... plenty of suggestions here. Let us know what you find.
post #54 of 73
LED backlit displays should not cause IR noise issues

I replaced several CCFL LCD displays with the new Samsung UNB series in my home: to me they are a big step forward in performance, particularly black levels
post #55 of 73
It is now May 2010, has there been any acknowledgement from the TV manufacturers or cable companies? I have 2 Panasonic Plasma TVs; one a 2009 model (TCP50S1) and one a 2010 model (TCP42S2) both connected to their own RNG110 HD cable box. I've had to use the tape / paper method, but it does not remedy the problem 100%.
I've noticed that having a lamp on (regular non-fluorescent bulb) in front (6 ft. away) of the TV & cable box improved the performance of the remote reception with masking tape on the cable box.
Have any new cheap work-arounds been discovered?
post #56 of 73
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sid_Mac View Post

It is now May 2010, has there been any acknowledgement from the TV manufacturers or cable companies? I have 2 Panasonic Plasma TVs; one a 2009 model (TCP50S1) and one a 2010 model (TCP42S2) both connected to their own RNG110 HD cable box. I've had to use the tape / paper method, but it does not remedy the problem 100%.
I've noticed that having a lamp on (regular non-fluorescent bulb) in front (6 ft. away) of the TV & cable box improved the performance of the remote reception with masking tape on the cable box.
Have any new cheap work-arounds been discovered?

Read through this thread, and this one about all the methods that have worked. There may be one that works better than what you're using now.
post #57 of 73
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clint S. View Post

Read through this thread, and this one about all the methods that have worked. There may be one that works better than what you're using now.

Thank you Clint S. The weird thing is that the filtering of the cable box by tape or paper seems to work intermittently. Currently the RNG110 that is connected to the smaller HDTV (42") has masking tape over its sensor port AND a single piece of white paper over the entire front. This seems to have been working fairly consistently, more so than when masking tape was covering only the sensor port. The other RNG110 (connected to the 50" HDTV) has no filter at all anymore and has been working well more often than not.
post #58 of 73
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sid_Mac View Post

Thank you Clint S. The weird thing is that the filtering of the cable box by tape or paper seems to work intermittently. Currently the RNG110 that is connected to the smaller HDTV (42") has masking tape over its sensor port AND a single piece of white paper over the entire front. This seems to have been working fairly consistently, more so than when masking tape was covering only the sensor port. The other RNG110 (connected to the 50" HDTV) has no filter at all anymore and has been working well more often than not.

Even though IR frequencies can be quite different from other devices in a home (IR ranges from .7 to 300μm), it still has not yet been determined exactly what frequencies of the EM spectrum that are causing the interference. So it could be frequencies far different from IR doing it, therefore there could be many other things that's interfering with it. The incandescent light you mentioned that helped, is interesting. That would seem to indicate that it's blocking/overpowering some form of "light" (read: other part of the spectrum that we probably can't see nor hear) that's interfering with it. Experimenting more with wireless devices in the home and other light sources may help.
post #59 of 73
Comcast box, and verilux reading lamp. Tried 3m heavy duty transluent tape and regular 3m tape. remote would turn on TV, but box would not receive signal from remote when covered with tape. Any other suggestions?
post #60 of 73
Did you try it without the Verilux lamp?

Did you look at all the suggestions in this thread? If so, I don't know of any more.

What is odd in my case, is the paper I had put over the IR window on my box is no longer needed! This would seem to indicate the TV is no longer putting out the same EMI as before. ?
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