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The Official Magnepan Owners Thread - Page 12

post #331 of 3491
I just received a MMGC to go with the MMG's I've been using for years. The manual for the MMGC recommends setting up the system in a particular way, and since I'm a bit of a noob on crossovers and what have you, I was hoping to run this by yall to see if I understand correctly.

First the Spec's:
MMGs: 50 - 24 KHz
MMG-C: 100 - 16 KHz

Instructions (sorry for the length, and actually these instructions from their website have different and better wording than the instructions that came with my speaker, so glad I was lazy and decided to copy from their website instead of typing it all. ) :
Quote:
Set your receiver or processor on "small" speaker for the center channel, and "large" or "full range" for the left/right speakers. (This does not apply if the MC1 or MMG W are used as front left/right speakers.) Set the MMG C crossover point at 100Hz. Try higher crossover points to achieve natural reproduction of male voice. Depending upon your room conditions and the center channel placement, a different crossover point from 100Hz may be needed.

Even though you will probably be using a subwoofer, set your receiver or processor for "no subwoofer." This may seem strange, but it is necessary for the proper integration of the center channel bass. To drive your subwoofer, use a pre-amp output from the front left/right of the processor or receiver. (It may be necessary to use Y adapters.)

How (and why) this setup works-normally, when "small" center speaker is specified, the center channel bass is routed to the subwoofer. In reality, this doesn't work very well, especially for Magneplanars. There is usually a frequency "hole" in the response or the sonic integration is poor. When "no subwoofer" is specified, the processor automatically routes the center channel bass to the front left/right "full range" Magneplanars (because there is no alternative). The front left/right Magneplanars provide the bass for the center channel speaker; and the integration is seamless, having the same characteristics as the MMG C.

Since the signal from the front left/right pre-amp outputs is "full range," the subwoofer receives all the bass information. The .1 channel (effects) is not needed. Adjust the subwoofer crossover point so it does not overlap with the "full range" front left/right Magneplanars.

For my situation, I think this means I should:
1. Set sub to none
2. Set center to small
3. Run two RCA cables from my left & right pre-outs of the receiver to my sub (M&K MX-100)
4. Set the low pass filter on my sub (another name for crossover?) to ~50.

Assuming all the above is relatively correct, I think I'm good for now.

On a related note, I wanted to mention that Wendell at Magnepan called me today to see what kind of receiver I was using. I believe they are trying to determine how many of their customers are still using older receivers like mine that don't have the ability to adjust the crossover point for the small speaker settings. He said that the numbers he was getting so far were showing a lot more of their customers have fixed crossovers than expected. My Yamaha 995 fixes the crossover point at 90hz when you set a speaker to small, so there will be at least a 10hz gap between the 90hz crossover and the 100hz the center speaker is rated at. I'll have to experiment (when/if) I get time to see what kind of effect this gap has on the male voice dialogue.

He mentioned Magnepan was developing an inexpensive outboard module that could help some people with problems like this. They are also making a Woofer that could be a solution (but he said the first one of these to be released would likely be the more expensive model ~$1000ish, the ~$500ish model would be released later). Unfortunately I couldn't ask many questions since I was at work and had a meeting, but I should have asked if they were calling to decide what features should be on these new woofers of theirs.
post #332 of 3491
That's essentially correct, Eric.

Unfortunately when a speaker is rated to xHz, it usually means +/-3dB which usually also means it is -6dB at xHz. And in such a situation the crossover setting may actually have to be higher than x.

I don't know what the MMG-C frequency response really looks like, but I have my 1.6's crossed over at 80Hz. I'd probably put 60Hz as the lowest, and not 40Hz as they are spec'ed. In part because of what I just mentioned, but also because while it may be -6dB at 40Hz when playing at 1W, it might be -12dB when at 100W. Simply because it may not be capable of the required displacement or if it is then distortion increases (I'm not as familiar with planar-based distortion, so the second half of this statement may be false).

I'm also using a fixed crossover with my 1.6's though, so I couldn't change it unless I switched it to different gear I own. I have independently adjustable crossovers on my HT processor.

Anyway, the reason you have to let the left and right mains reproduce the <100Hz that would normally be sent to the center channel is because male vocals are ~60Hz and up, and those frequencies are still localizable. In other words, you don't want people talking to come out of your subwoofer.
post #333 of 3491
Thanks Josuah, and if you'd allow me to be more of an idiot, I think what you are saying is 2 things:

1. My Low pass filter in my posted setup likely needs to be set higher than 50 to cover for the db loss at the lower end of the MMG's rating. Sounds like you are using 80 hz with your 1.6's, but assuming your setup is like mine listed above, the 1.6's are trying to play the 40-80 range, but the sub is also playing those frequencies.

2. That the 10 hz gap between the 90 hz on my receiver's crossover and my center channel's listed 100hz lower end freq response is likely a larger gap. This is what Wendell was saying too. What is needed is a way to adjust the center channel's crossover to somewhere between 80hz and 160+ to see what works best in my setup. I'm guessing that both the outboard module and the woofer he was talking about would receive information from the receiver with the center channel set to "full" and re-rout the lower frequencies to the mains/sub as appropriate.
post #334 of 3491
Quote:


Since the signal from the front left/right pre-amp outputs is "full range," the subwoofer receives all the bass information. The .1 channel (effects) is not needed. Adjust the subwoofer crossover point so it does not overlap with the "full range" front left/right Magneplanars.

While I understand what Magnepan is suggesting here... there are issues to consider.

1.) Even the big maggies are not that great full range for home theater material. The diaphragms just don't have the excursion and output for much of what is in modern films LFE track.

2.) Running this info into the maggies will consume much of your power amp's headroom, and one of the main reasons for a sub is to take this load off of the main speaker/amp combination.

3.) While I doubt you will overdrive your bass panels in full range mode, you may indeed overdrive your amp, and even if you have unlimited power for your mains (I do), there are other sonic consequences to driving the LFE track to them as well.

Another thing to consider is that if your rec/pre/pro has MCACC, Audyssey, etc., these systems do a pretty good job of matching the various speakers using EQ. My new Pioneer has only one crossover point (I set to 80Hz), and the MCACC has done a much better job matching both the inherent sonic and placement characteristics of my various maggies than I was ever able to achieve using just independent crossover points.

Of course... having both independent Xover settings AND MCACC/Audyssey would be the ideal, or at least it should be.
post #335 of 3491
Quote:
Originally Posted by Summa View Post

Awesome! Got pics coming?

As soon as I get the Kuro installed, I'll post some
Maybe even before & after..

ss9001
post #336 of 3491
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric Howell View Post

1. My Low pass filter in my posted setup likely needs to be set higher than 50 to cover for the db loss at the lower end of the MMG's rating. Sounds like you are using 80 hz with your 1.6's, but assuming your setup is like mine listed above, the 1.6's are trying to play the 40-80 range, but the sub is also playing those frequencies.

That's right. No idiocy here. 50Hz might be just fine, depending on how things are. It's hard to really say without taking measurements. If I had an adjustable crossover for my 1.6's, I might find that I could use 60Hz after taking measurements.

As an example, I have some rear-ported speakers that are spec'ed at -3dB @ 28Hz. However at ~75dB my crossover needs to be 40Hz. And so I have it set at 60Hz just in case.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric Howell View Post

2. That the 10 hz gap between the 90 hz on my receiver's crossover and my center channel's listed 100hz lower end freq response is likely a larger gap. This is what Wendell was saying too. What is needed is a way to adjust the center channel's crossover to somewhere between 80hz and 160+ to see what works best in my setup.

Yep.
post #337 of 3491
Thanks s.bradford and Joshua, I think I now have a pretty good understanding of the tradeoffs between the various setups. I'm just going to have to experiment with what I have for now to see what works best.
post #338 of 3491
Are my MMGs too small for my new room? I recently completed a dedicated theater above my garage and have moved all my equipment from its previous location in the family room. The new room is 30' deep x 13' wide with a 9.5' ceiling. I've added some room treatments from GIK (TriTraps in the front corners and 2 2x4 absorbers on each side wall at 1st reflections) but the MMGs seem like they can't "fill" the space. Everything sounds weak. I'm driving them with a pair of Outlaw monoblocks so I doubt that lack of power is the problem. So the question is this: is a 3600 cubic foot room too big for MMGs? Do I need bigger Maggies or do I need to switch to a more "traditional" speaker system?
post #339 of 3491
The 1.6's would fit the bill beautifully.
post #340 of 3491
Quote:
Originally Posted by jayna_95 View Post

Do I need bigger Maggies..

I second paulwozniak's comment -1.6's would work great. You **might** consider 3.6's for added transparency if you have enough space between them with your display. But 1.6's would make wonderful HT speakers for your size room (+sub).

ss9001
post #341 of 3491
I home auditioned the MC1's and the MG12's finally.
It was mainly 2ch music.

The dealer had already mounted the MC1s on stands. To me that
was too high. But I auditioned like that as he didnt want to remove the stands. I thought the treble from the rear side of the MC1 was much more than the front. So I turned the MC1s around so that I was facing the rear of the MC1s. There was a lot of treble but it wasnt very clear. So I turned them back and listened to them the correct way. After a while I got used to the lower treble from the fronts and I liked the detail.

The nexy day I borrowed the MG12's. Initially they sounded great with great clarity and soundstage. I also liked them as they sounded fine even without a sub for many songs.

I played them the next day and I didnt hear that much high end. Nothing had changed in my set up. I liked it so much I didnt change anything on my receiver. I thought I was just imagining but I am sure the high end wasnt as much as the previous day. I was using a sub with MG12 also. I tried without the sub and set the fronts as large and may be the high end came back a bit but I wasnt happy. I was sold on the MG12 but this loss of high end (not completely though) kept me from buying them. I just dont know what happened. Nope I didnt blow the fuse or anything. I dont play louder than some 70 db as my room is small. May be I hit 75db and thats it.

I am thinking of getting the MC1s now. Has anyone tried them as fronts, of course with a sub. I feel that the MC1s have more high end than the
MG12s. I dont think it is because the MC1s only go till 80Hz. I am also not imagining. I tried with both my old Yamaha RX-V795a and my new RX-V2700 which I got just a could of days back and they both sounded the same i.e lacking the high end that I enjoyed the previous day.

Is anyone using the MC1s as fronts with a sub.
I wont have problem with the height as I am planning on making a DIY stand. It is not going to be hard to make a stand to support a 10lb frame.

Any feedback is appreciated.

I am also borrowing the MMGs next week to listen to them at home.
post #342 of 3491
Quote:
Originally Posted by jayna_95 View Post

Are my MMGs too small for my new room? ...the MMGs seem like they can't "fill" the space. Everything sounds weak.

Do they sound okay if you're sitting closer? Or is it you actually want echoey sound (which is easier accomplished in a small room)? I don't like that myself, so a large room like that would be perfect for me.

Also, try experimenting with toe-in and slant. I didn't notice it much with the MG12, MG1.6, or MG3.6, but it makes a big difference with some other planar speakers. Maybe also the MMGs.

One thing that is very obvious is vertical off-axis response. You really need to keep your head inside the plane of the Magnepan speakers. If you stand up your sound will disappear. The MMG slant or positioning might be making this a problem for you.
post #343 of 3491
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mupi View Post

I home auditioned the MC1's and the MG12's finally.
It was mainly 2ch music.

The dealer had already mounted the MC1s on stands. To me that
was too high. But I auditioned like that as he didnt want to remove the stands. I thought the treble from the rear side of the MC1 was much more than the front. So I turned the MC1s around so that I was facing the rear of the MC1s. There was a lot of treble but it wasnt very clear. So I turned them back and listened to them the correct way. After a while I got used to the lower treble from the fronts and I liked the detail.

The nexy day I borrowed the MG12's. Initially they sounded great with great clarity and soundstage. I also liked them as they sounded fine even without a sub for many songs.

I played them the next day and I didnt hear that much high end. Nothing had changed in my set up. I liked it so much I didnt change anything on my receiver. I thought I was just imagining but I am sure the high end wasnt as much as the previous day. I was using a sub with MG12 also. I tried without the sub and set the fronts as large and may be the high end came back a bit but I wasnt happy. I was sold on the MG12 but this loss of high end (not completely though) kept me from buying them. I just dont know what happened. Nope I didnt blow the fuse or anything. I dont play louder than some 70 db as my room is small. May be I hit 75db and thats it.

I am thinking of getting the MC1s now. Has anyone tried them as fronts, of course with a sub. I feel that the MC1s have more high end than the
MG12s. I dont think it is because the MC1s only go till 80Hz. I am also not imagining. I tried with both my old Yamaha RX-V795a and my new RX-V2700 which I got just a could of days back and they both sounded the same i.e lacking the high end that I enjoyed the previous day.

Is anyone using the MC1s as fronts with a sub.
I wont have problem with the height as I am planning on making a DIY stand. It is not going to be hard to make a stand to support a 10lb frame.

Any feedback is appreciated.

I am also borrowing the MMGs next week to listen to them at home.

I am. Mine are wall mounted 24" from the floor and 24" from the back wall. I love the sound, and they do throw a large image, even though I have a large Sony TV between them. Going to replace that Sony RPTV with a Panny plasma (wall mounted) one day. I'm using two subwoofers, a 12" JBL and a 12" Velodyne. Two mmg-c's (one for the back surround) and mmg-w's round out the system. I used to have a pair of 1.6's for the front, but a crackhead "borrowed" them. The MC-1's were a little of a step back in sound, but a huge step forward in appearance for my room. Very pleased with the sound. I crossed the MC-1's over at 120hz, not perfectly seamless, but it was the best compromise. Hope this helps, wasn't quite sure what the question was.

Edit: I'm powering all this with an ONKYO 805, which provides all the volume I need, with headroom to spare, and I like my rock loud.
post #344 of 3491
Quote:
Originally Posted by paulwozniak View Post

I am. Mine are wall mounted 24" from the floor and 24" from the back wall. I love the sound, and they do throw a large image, even though I have a large Sony TV between them. Going to replace that Sony RPTV with a Panny plasma (wall mounted) one day. I'm using two subwoofers, a 12" JBL and a 12" Velodyne. Two mmg-c's (one for the back surround) and mmg-w's round out the system. I used to have a pair of 1.6's for the front, but a crackhead "borrowed" them. The MC-1's were a little of a step back in sound, but a huge step forward in appearance for my room. Very pleased with the sound. I crossed the MC-1's over at 120hz, not perfectly seamless, but it was the best compromise. Hope this helps, wasn't quite sure what the question was.

Edit: I'm powering all this with an ONKYO 805, which provides all the volume I need, with headroom to spare, and I like my rock loud.

Thanks for the reply.
So when you say it was a step back in sound from 1.6, was it a step back in the clarity and high end?
post #345 of 3491
Not in clarity and high frequencies, more like a smaller sound stage and a lot less bass propagation. This is understandable given the difference in size. The 1.6's are roughly 4 times larger, but they are both quasi-ribbons, so the only difference is the length of the quasi-ribbon in this case. After I ran the Audyssey program, the high frequencies were actually dialed down a bit from running un-equalized on my MC-1's. I believe they sound more natural now. Clarity has never been an issue with either model for me. These speakers take a little getting used to if your last set were traditional boxes. The more you listen, the more you realize how much everybody else (other speaker makers) had it wrong. Maggies sound more like "music" to me than anything else i have owned. In between my Maggies (the 1.6's and my current set-up,) I used a few other speakers that were loaned to me to tide me over, and they sounded good, but when I went back to Magnepan, I knew I was back "home". I listen longer with my Maggies than I did with anything else I have heard or owned. No listener fatigue.
post #346 of 3491
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mupi View Post

I home auditioned the MC1's and the MG12's finally.
It was mainly 2ch music.

The dealer had already mounted the MC1s on stands. To me that
was too high. But I auditioned like that as he didnt want to remove the stands. I thought the treble from the rear side of the MC1 was much more than the front. So I turned the MC1s around so that I was facing the rear of the MC1s. There was a lot of treble but it wasnt very clear. So I turned them back and listened to them the correct way. After a while I got used to the lower treble from the fronts and I liked the detail.

The nexy day I borrowed the MG12's. Initially they sounded great with great clarity and soundstage. I also liked them as they sounded fine even without a sub for many songs.

I played them the next day and I didnt hear that much high end. Nothing had changed in my set up. I liked it so much I didnt change anything on my receiver. I thought I was just imagining but I am sure the high end wasnt as much as the previous day. I was using a sub with MG12 also. I tried without the sub and set the fronts as large and may be the high end came back a bit but I wasnt happy. I was sold on the MG12 but this loss of high end (not completely though) kept me from buying them. I just dont know what happened. Nope I didnt blow the fuse or anything. I dont play louder than some 70 db as my room is small. May be I hit 75db and thats it.

I am thinking of getting the MC1s now. Has anyone tried them as fronts, of course with a sub. I feel that the MC1s have more high end than the
MG12s. I dont think it is because the MC1s only go till 80Hz. I am also not imagining. I tried with both my old Yamaha RX-V795a and my new RX-V2700 which I got just a could of days back and they both sounded the same i.e lacking the high end that I enjoyed the previous day.

Is anyone using the MC1s as fronts with a sub.
I wont have problem with the height as I am planning on making a DIY stand. It is not going to be hard to make a stand to support a 10lb frame.

Any feedback is appreciated.

I am also borrowing the MMGs next week to listen to them at home.

I owned MC-1s several years ago and tried to use them as L+R satellites combined with a Velodyne DD-18 sub. I got good integration with a lot of trial and error caused in large part by the fact that I couldn't load the MC-1s off a wall as recommended by Magnepan. This mattered because if I left them in free air away from walls on stands as I did, they only extend to somewhere between 160-200 hz, which in turn required me to run the DD-18 that high (fortunately, the Velodyne DDs are linear at these frequencies). However, I had to move the sub almost in between the MC-1s because I was able to easily locate it as a distinct source of sound when corner loaded.

I tried 1.6s next and honestly liked them a lot more as main speakers versus the MC-1s for three reasons:
1: They were much easier to set up and enjoy, especially in the bass area. Indeed for most music I listened to, the 1.6s didn't require a sub at all. Actually, I enjoyed them more without a sub (for whatever reason, I had a more difficult time seamlessly integrating the sub with the 1.6s versus the MC-1s).

2: For me, size mattered and given the 1.6s height versus the MC-1, they sound they delivered was more realistic than the MC-1. Put another way, the MC-1s with sub sounded like a very good music system, but the 1.6s sounded more like live events (which is why I now have a bias toward tall planars).

3: From the midrange up, the 1.6s had a major advantage in dynamics.

Of course, you pay a cosmetic price in terms of the of the relative size of the two speakers but having lived with MC-1s/MMG-Ws and MMG/1.6 as L+R main speakers, I've concluded that I prefer the latter as mains, and the former as surround speakers, assuming you have the room for the larger Maggies up front.

In terms of tonal balance, I did think the MC-1s (with or without subs) sounded a bit bright in the treble compared to the 1.6s. This is somewhat surprising given that both models share common driver types, but perhaps differing crossovers and crossover frequencies have something to do with this.

I'm waiting on new 1.6s to arrive to replace my current MMGs serving as front mains at present. It's nice that I have prior experience with them so I know, more or less, what to expect (all good ).

Eric
post #347 of 3491
Quote:
Originally Posted by paulwozniak View Post

Not in clarity and high frequencies, more like a smaller sound stage and a lot less bass propagation. This is understandable given the difference in size. The 1.6's are roughly 4 times larger, but they are both quasi-ribbons, so the only difference is the length of the quasi-ribbon in this case. After I ran the Audyssey program, the high frequencies were actually dialed down a bit from running un-equalized on my MC-1's. I believe they sound more natural now. Clarity has never been an issue with either model for me. These speakers take a little getting used to if your last set were traditional boxes. The more you listen, the more you realize how much everybody else (other speaker makers) had it wrong. Maggies sound more like "music" to me than anything else i have owned. In between my Maggies (the 1.6's and my current set-up,) I used a few other speakers that were loaned to me to tide me over, and they sounded good, but when I went back to Magnepan, I knew I was back "home". I listen longer with my Maggies than I did with anything else I have heard or owned. No listener fatigue.

+1: I had the same experience with several other respectable sub-sat systems I've used until recently. Now that I've gone back to Maggies, I remember how much I missed their unique, musical sound and I'm confident I'll be staying with them for the long term (though I reserve the right to move up the line as finances and physical room permit ).

Eric
post #348 of 3491
I've been playing with MMG's, MMGW's & MMGC for a few weeks now. I got MMGW's & MMGC in first, the MMGC I just didn't like so I sent it back & got in a pair of MMG's. The MMG's just blow me away on 2 channel, I do have them on stands 9" tall & vertical. Right now I use the MMG's Phantom for HT & MMGW's in the rear. My question is about using 2 MMG's for center & 2 more MMG's for R&L in HT. I love how I have dialogue centered on the screen VS a CC over the display, Plus 2 MMG's would be a lot less than a CC3. In this set-up the main MMG's would be about 2ft outside the center MMG's & maybe another foot forward. Any thoughts on this set-up?, thanks.
post #349 of 3491
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tiga S2 View Post

I've been playing with MMG's, MMGW's & MMGC for a few weeks now. I got MMGW's & MMGC in first, the MMGC I just didn't like so I sent it back & got in a pair of MMG's. The MMG's just blow me away on 2 channel, I do have them on stands 9" tall & vertical. Right now I use the MMG's Phantom for HT & MMGW's in the rear. My question is about using 2 MMG's for center & 2 more MMG's for R&L in HT. I love how I have dialogue centered on the screen VS a CC over the display, Plus 2 MMG's would be a lot less than a CC3. In this set-up the main MMG's would be about 2ft outside the center MMG's & maybe another foot forward. Any thoughts on this set-up?, thanks.

I think that could certainly work sonically, though I personally think a wall of Maggies dominating my front line of sight would be a bit distracting. Call me old fashioned, but for music at least an important part of the experience is the very realistic soundstaging and imaging Maggies (including the MMG) deliver. I would think that a wall of MMGs could disrupt this effect.

Now, if you're going to use them primarily in dark room for HT where you don't see them, I think your idea could work quite well.

Eric
post #350 of 3491
Thanks for the reply elockett, this does have my interest tweaked & you're right- it would be a wall of Maggies. I'm also a little concerned about imaging having them all that close together. I was playing around with Eagles DTS last night with these as center & Paradigms R&L, there is a lot more of Don's Voice in the R&L than I thought would be there so it may be too distracting- just not sure.
post #351 of 3491
I ordered the MMGs on Monday and they arrived Thursday. My initial impressions on Thursday evening was that I didn't like the speakers. I was very disappointed because I had so been looking forward to them. On Friday I read through the owners manual of my pioneer 1018 and figured out that I had the settings all messed up. I modified a bunch of things and re-ran the MCACC and the sound is amazing. I spent all day yesterday and today playing anything I could find. I have to say that they really are unforgiving of bad sources, but the detail is just incredible.

That being said, what's the easiest way to get the speakers vertical? From what I've read here and at the asylum getting them up and vertical is the way to go. What is everyone else using? The mye stands seem to be popular, but are people really spending that much on stands for the MMG?

But thanks to everyone for all your advice so far. I'm really thrilled with these. I'm already thinking of getting some 1.6s for the living room downstairs. But first probably MMG-W rear and something for the center (don't know what yet) and then a sub looking at eD A2-300 or HSU VTF-2 MK3. And maybe some acoustic panels.... so much to do.... I love this hobby!
post #352 of 3491
Quote:
Originally Posted by ryuspeed View Post

I ordered the MMGs on Monday and they arrived Thursday. My initial impressions on Thursday evening was that I didn't like the speakers. I was very disappointed because I had so been looking forward to them. On Friday I read through the owners manual of my pioneer 1018 and figured out that I had the settings all messed up. I modified a bunch of things and re-ran the MCACC and the sound is amazing. I spent all day yesterday and today playing anything I could find. I have to say that they really are unforgiving of bad sources, but the detail is just incredible.

That being said, what's the easiest way to get the speakers vertical? From what I've read here and at the asylum getting them up and vertical is the way to go. What is everyone else using? The mye stands seem to be popular, but are people really spending that much on stands for the MMG?

But thanks to everyone for all your advice so far. I'm really thrilled with these. I'm already thinking of getting some 1.6s for the living room downstairs. But first probably MMG-W rear and something for the center (don't know what yet) and then a sub looking at eD A2-300 or HSU VTF-2 MK3. And maybe some acoustic panels.... so much to do.... I love this hobby!

Congrats on your MMG purchase, and I'm glad you're enjoying them. I don't recall what Mye stands cost, but I think I can provide a less expensive option. First, you'll want to build your own T footers like those found on larger Maggies. Try this tip from the Magnepan Users Group (MUG):
http://www.integracoustics.com/MUG/M.../richardh.html
One caveat about Richard's advice though: His instruction to use 1/4 washers is incorrect because the diameter of its center hole is too large, so the MMGs mount bolts will pass right through them. What you want is a washer with a 3/16 interior diameter. You can find them at any home improvement store. Further, though Richard was correct about the make and model of bracket to use, he didn't mention where to find them within Home Depot or Lowes. The location is not necessarily intuitive-try the lumber section . Though the L brackets are silver by default, you can easily spray paint them with any color you desire. Though optional, I also added self adhesive felt pads to the bottom of my footers to prevent the risk of them scratching whatever surface I placed them on.

As for the stands, I'm using a neat system I've only found at Lowes (and interestingly enough, not all locations nor at Lowes website). The brand is called "Real Organized" and it consists of plastic feet, metal poles, and shelves that can be combined in many different ways. I've attached a couple of pics of the shelf I built for my MMGs. In this example, I used a pair of 16"x24" black wood (actually laminate) shelves, a set of 16" poles (they always come in packs of four), and pack of footers with end caps (required because they bind the shelves to the poles). If memory serves, this configuration cost ~$28. The poles come in silver or black (surprisingly nice finish given the price) at heights of 8, 12, and 16 inches. The shelves come in several different sizes, colors (including glass), and shapes. Beyond the attractive cost, the system is easilly expandable and requires no tools for assembly. Indeed, the unit you see in my pics literally took a couple of minutes to assemble. Once assembled the unit is quite strong, and I'm using 6' tall towers in other rooms for extra storage and satellite speaker stands. As I said previously though, the trick is finding a Lowes near you that carries this system. One way to do this is to call any store near you and provide the following item number (black 8" poles): 253654. If the store carries this item, they'll carry the entire system. If the store you call doesn't have it, ask them to check for stores that do (they have proprietary inventory systems seperate from their website).

I hope this helps.

Eric
LL
LL
post #353 of 3491
Quote:
Originally Posted by ryuspeed View Post

what's the easiest way to get the speakers vertical?

If you have access to a table saw and dado head (or router), you can build these for under fifty bucks.

You actually don't need a table saw, provided you have the skill to cut the bottom panel square with a hand saw.

post #354 of 3491
Quote:
Originally Posted by s.bradford View Post

If you have access to a table saw and dado head (or router), you can build these for under fifty bucks.

You actually don't need a table saw, provided you have the skill to cut the bottom panel square with a hand saw.


Do you have instructions for how to build these? I really like the look.
post #355 of 3491
Quote:
Originally Posted by elockett View Post

Congrats on your MMG purchase, and I'm glad you're enjoying them. I don't recall what Mye stands cost, but I think I can provide a less expensive option. First, you'll want to build your own T footers like those found on larger Maggies. Try this tip from the Magnepan Users Group (MUG):
http://www.integracoustics.com/MUG/M.../richardh.html
One caveat about Richard's advice though: His instruction to use 1/4 washers is incorrect because the diameter of its center hole is too large, so the MMGs mount bolts will pass right through them. What you want is a washer with a 3/16 interior diameter. You can find them at any home improvement store. Further, though Richard was correct about the make and model of bracket to use, he didn't mention where to find them within Home Depot or Lowes. The location is not necessarily intuitive-try the lumber section . Though the L brackets are silver by default, you can easily spray paint them with any color you desire. Though optional, I also added self adhesive felt pads to the bottom of my footers to prevent the risk of them scratching whatever surface I placed them on.

As for the stands, I'm using a neat system I've only found at Lowes (and interestingly enough, not all locations nor at Lowes website). The brand is called "Real Organized" and it consists of plastic feet, metal poles, and shelves that can be combined in many different ways. I've attached a couple of pics of the shelf I built for my MMGs. In this example, I used a pair of 16"x24" black wood (actually laminate) shelves, a set of 16" poles (they always come in packs of four), and pack of footers with end caps (required because they bind the shelves to the poles). If memory serves, this configuration cost ~$28. The poles come in silver or black (surprisingly nice finish given the price) at heights of 8, 12, and 16 inches. The shelves come in several different sizes, colors (including glass), and shapes. Beyond the attractive cost, the system is easilly expandable and requires no tools for assembly. Indeed, the unit you see in my pics literally took a couple of minutes to assemble. Once assembled the unit is quite strong, and I'm using 6' tall towers in other rooms for extra storage and satellite speaker stands. As I said previously though, the trick is finding a Lowes near you that carries this system. One way to do this is to call any store near you and provide the following item number (black 8" poles): 253654. If the store carries this item, they'll carry the entire system. If the store you call doesn't have it, ask them to check for stores that do (they have proprietary inventory systems seperate from their website).

I hope this helps.

Eric

Using the stands from lowes is an interesting idea. We are already using some of them in the bedroom to hold some equipment and another set to hold books. Because our seating position is low, we probably wouldn't need the 16" bars and could get away with the 8" or 12". The only problem is that I have the oak with white MMGs and there isn't really a color option that matches that. But I can definitely give it a shot when I get back home.
post #356 of 3491
Quote:
Originally Posted by ryuspeed View Post

Do you have instructions for how to build these? I really like the look.

Well I guess it depends on how comprehensive you need them to be. I suppose I could write up step by step instructions, but they are pretty simple provided you have the ability to run a 3/4" wide, 3/8" deep dado down the length of the new rails.

Do you just need rough dimensions, or a step by step guide?
post #357 of 3491
Quote:
Originally Posted by ryuspeed View Post

Using the stands from lowes is an interesting idea. We are already using some of them in the bedroom to hold some equipment and another set to hold books. Because our seating position is low, we probably wouldn't need the 16" bars and could get away with the 8" or 12". The only problem is that I have the oak with white MMGs and there isn't really a color option that matches that. But I can definitely give it a shot when I get back home.

Unfortunately, your right about the color mismatch. I like the off-white oak combo but it can be hard to match with off the shelf stands (especially for MMGs that Magnepan (right or wrong) never designed to be elevated).

If you have the tools and skill s.bradford's solution looks awfully good.

Eric
post #358 of 3491
Quote:
Originally Posted by s.bradford View Post

Well I guess it depends on how comprehensive you need them to be. I suppose I could write up step by step instructions, Do you just need rough dimensions, or a step by step guide?

You do realize of course that a couple of companies in the business of modifying Magnaplaners got their start just this way.

You're probably not interested in such an undertaking but sometimes we don't notice right away when we've stepped in s***!

I know I've told you myself, they are very nice.
post #359 of 3491
Well of course a step by step would be the best :-) but we beggars can't be choosers. Basically an idea of the materials and what you did.
post #360 of 3491
Get yourself Sound Anchor MMG stands. Done.

http://www.soundanchors.com/page44.html
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