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Infocus X10/ IN80 Owners thread - Reviews, Settings, Screenshots and issues - Page 26

post #751 of 983
Quote:
Originally Posted by mbitigger View Post

Just got my X10 a little while ago. The difference from my 4805 is noticeable. It is quite a bit brighter and of course Blu-Ray just looks fantastic!

The color looked a bit blue to me out of the box. I tried playing with just the color and brightness using my DVE and found myself with a setting of Color at 44 and brightness at 57. Contrast seemed to have little effect, so I left it at 50.

Now I'll have to go through this thread and see what settings all of you are suggesting!

MB

There is no reason to use someone elses settings. There are way too may variables. I would however start by adjusting the iris first, to get the overall intensity like you want it.
post #752 of 983
Enjoying Blu-ray a lot right now! But I do have one question.

Is anyone using the mounts from monoprice for the x10? Do they work well?

Thanks in advance

MB
post #753 of 983
Quote:
Originally Posted by mbitigger View Post

Is anyone using the mounts from monoprice for the x10? Do they work well?

No, not particularly. I do use one but I had to modify mine to get the legs to reach the X10 mounting holes. 3 would work but the fourth did not. I have a machine shop so it wasn't a big deal, but as shipped, the 1 extra long leg that is sent was not enough. If they sent 2 extra long legs (the thing comes with 2 spares, one long and one short), then it would work fine.

Truth is, for the price you can buy 2 of them just to get the extra legs for it.

I'm talking about the articulating mount they have, not the one that's the tube which comes down from the ceiling. I mean the one with the telescoping square steel channel for height adjustment.

Other than the missing leg issue, I like the mount.
post #754 of 983
Thread Starter 
This one is from Art's blog

http://www.projectorreviews.com/blog...ectors-part-1/

Quote:
I do believe that the InFocus ScreenPlay 8602 - or shall I call it the IN8602, or the SP8602? - will be pretty impressive. Unlike previous projectors like the IN83, the SP8602 will be sporting a dynamic iris, so promises really good black levels (the blacks were, in my opinion, the biggest weakness of the otherwise superb IN830). Gone is the flying saucer shape, replaced by a more traditional looking projector that can share chassis with their install business projectors. No point in mentioning more now, as I'll no doubt do a First Look blog about the InFocus ScreenPlay 8602 in the next week. One last thought, one of the lower cost favorite DLP's of mine is the InFocus X10. From recent conversations, it seems InFocus has run out of them, but there are still some with various dealers. If the InFocus X10 on your short list, time is running out.

Is the X10 completely sold out in US?
post #755 of 983
Quote:
Originally Posted by anirbana View Post

Is the X10 completely sold out in US?

The word was Infocus sold all of its stock to TigerDirect for the closeout, and I see that TigerDirect is no longer listing the X10, so I would say for all intents and purposes it's sold out and the window of opportunity has ended.
post #756 of 983
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffKB View Post

The word was Infocus sold all of its stock to TigerDirect for the closeout, and I see that TigerDirect is no longer listing the X10, so I would say for all intents and purposes it's sold out and the window of opportunity has ended.

So then, what model replaced the X10 in this price range?
post #757 of 983
Quote:
Originally Posted by ricochet315 View Post

So then, what model replaced the X10 in this price range?

None at the moment, although you may find a dealer willing to sell you an IN81 around $2-2.5K I would think. It looks to me like the IN81/82 has been quietly discontinued as well however - the scant few authorized online resellers no longer list them available. It wouldn't surprise me to find out they are just clearing stock on the IN83 also, although Infocus may continue that model since it is DC4, and it seems likely the SP8602 is not.

I hope Infocus continues to have a gamut of products that span the price ranges, and doesn't choose to focus only on the ~$5000 price point (i.e. SP8602). We'll see.
post #758 of 983
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffKB View Post

The word was Infocus sold all of its stock to TigerDirect for the closeout, and I see that TigerDirect is no longer listing the X10, so I would say for all intents and purposes it's sold out and the window of opportunity has ended.

Wow - talk about getting in just under the wire. I dithered for so long about ordering - thank goodness I did not wait any longer! I really hope they keep up with their lower end devices as well. It would be nice to start seeing some entry level devices with DC2 and (by the time I replace this PJ) DC3...

MB
post #759 of 983
Checked Amazon a few minutes ago, TigerDirect still sells it.
post #760 of 983
Quote:
Originally Posted by ricochet315 View Post

Checked Amazon a few minutes ago, TigerDirect still sells it.

Yes, for at least a few hours more - Amazon shows 1 in stock at TD.

I would think it's possible that TD may get a few in occasionally from Infocus, so it may still be possible to pick one up from them after they sell their last one here.

I did see other sellers on Amazon with it as well, although at a little higher price. Not sure if those are authorized, although the X10 was more widely distributed than the IN8x series, so it's probably OK.
post #761 of 983
Glad I got in just before they ran out!! From what I read on Projector Reviews, there was not much calibration needed since the X10 is already close to ideal out-of-the-box. As a result, I was thinking of using the DVE Blu Ray calibration disc for final touch-up. However, I find this disc too confusing to use and I am not sure how to proceed. First, should I try to calibrate with the iris fully open or should the iris be partially closed during calibration. Seems that whatever calibrated settings you come up with, such settings will be ultimately affected when you open or close the iris. I wish there was a simpler way of calibrating other than the DVE disc. Can anyone dumb this (dve disc)down for me so I can figure out the order in which the test patterns should be utilized. Any help here would be greatly appreciated. Oh, by the way, out of the box, the picture is already sharper than anything i have ever seen. I just want to get the most out of it. I would consider getting an isf technician to calibrate, but since, as I understand it, the unit is already semi-calibrated, I would like to see if I can put the finishing touches myself

Regards

atabea
post #762 of 983
Quote:
Originally Posted by kbgl View Post

In the advanced menu, there are settings for gains, and bias. Just reduce the red ones a click or two. I've heard that new bulbs sometimes are slightly red. Could be the screen too. Either way, a slight change on those settings will take care of it. You could also reduce the color setting a little.

Thanks, I will give it a try. It is a beautiful picture. I'm glad I went for the 1080p. Very pleased, so far.
post #763 of 983
Quote:
Originally Posted by anirbana View Post

True. The lamp will need 100 hrs of burn in before the red push is reduced. This is with almost all UHP lamps.

This is very good to know. Thank you.
post #764 of 983
Quote:
Originally Posted by atabea View Post

Glad I got in just before they ran out!! From what I read on Projector Reviews, there was not much calibration needed since the X10 is already close to ideal out-of-the-box. As a result, I was thinking of using the DVE Blu Ray calibration disc for final touch-up. However, I find this disc too confusing to use and I am not sure how to proceed. First, should I try to calibrate with the iris fully open or should the iris be partially closed during calibration. Seems that whatever calibrated settings you come up with, such settings will be ultimately affected when you open or close the iris. I wish there was a simpler way of calibrating other than the DVE disc. Can anyone dumb this (dve disc)down for me so I can figure out the order in which the test patterns should be utilized. Any help here would be greatly appreciated. Oh, by the way, out of the box, the picture is already sharper than anything i have ever seen. I just want to get the most out of it. I would consider getting an isf technician to calibrate, but since, as I understand it, the unit is already semi-calibrated, I would like to see if I can put the finishing touches myself

Regards

atabea

As for it being close out of the box, I think a better statement would be, it's acceptable out of the box. Close might mean that there's very little adjustment to do, and even if that is true, wrong is still wrong.

Begin with Brightness and Contrast adjustments. If those do not calibrate correctly, you're wasting your time. I've read here that the bulb takes 100 hours to "break in", so if that's true, you should get things close and not worry about it till you get some time on the unit. I'd be lying if I said that I could see a change in mine, but I think that 100 hours is a good period to just get used to the pj anyhow.

On mine at least, just getting the B/C right really was about all I needed to have my image quality better than any other display I'd seen. (I've not seen many displays, but, eh, a few)

Also, if you are having trouble getting even the basic black level and white levels to calibrate, then you need to look into manually setting the colorspace on the projector. I fought this for a while and was really pulling my hair out. No matter what I did, there was no ideal setting. Well, nope, there wasn't and I had to dig a bit deeper to get my pj to calibrate with my HTPC. What's worse, it wasn't all the time. The Auto setting was hosing me. Once I figured that out, it was like I just traded up to a pj that cost $2000 more. wow.

Other than that, just follow the instructions on the dvd. If you can't follow them and get results like they show you should, then there's something wrong elsewhere in the pj setup. Stop back, tell people what you've done, what you are trying to do, and someone here will help. Try to be specific though.

Don't forget, there's a display calibration forum here too.
post #765 of 983
Quote:
Originally Posted by K-Spaz View Post

As for it being close out of the box, I think a better statement would be, it's acceptable out of the box. Close might mean that there's very little adjustment to do, and even if that is true, wrong is still wrong.

Begin with Brightness and Contrast adjustments. If those do not calibrate correctly, you're wasting your time. I've read here that the bulb takes 100 hours to "break in", so if that's true, you should get things close and not worry about it till you get some time on the unit. I'd be lying if I said that I could see a change in mine, but I think that 100 hours is a good period to just get used to the pj anyhow.

On mine at least, just getting the B/C right really was about all I needed to have my image quality better than any other display I'd seen. (I've not seen many displays, but, eh, a few)

Also, if you are having trouble getting even the basic black level and white levels to calibrate, then you need to look into manually setting the colorspace on the projector. I fought this for a while and was really pulling my hair out. No matter what I did, there was no ideal setting. Well, nope, there wasn't and I had to dig a bit deeper to get my pj to calibrate with my HTPC. What's worse, it wasn't all the time. The Auto setting was hosing me. Once I figured that out, it was like I just traded up to a pj that cost $2000 more. wow.

Other than that, just follow the instructions on the dvd. If you can't follow them and get results like they show you should, then there's something wrong elsewhere in the pj setup. Stop back, tell people what you've done, what you are trying to do, and someone here will help. Try to be specific though.

Don't forget, there's a display calibration forum here too.


Kspaz, thanks very much for your thoughtful response. I think I unerstand your point that even if it could be frustrating and takes a long time, the end result would be worth it. I don't think I have enough knowledge or confidence to tackle the color space issue because I don't even understand what it means. I will however, try to get the Contrast and Brightness dialed in as a starting point. I was curious though, whether or not the settings should be achieved when the iris was fully open (which is factory default) or when it was partially closed. I do find that the DVE blu ray disc content is a bit "preachy" and could have been made simpler. But then again, it could also be that I do not possess the necessary base knowledge to make a go at this. In any event, I shall keep trying and hopefully end up with an even better display.

Thanks

atabea
post #766 of 983
I think you want to calibrate your settings with the iris open. That's the worst case setting (100). It changes the contrast ratio, but I don't think it alters the colors in any way because it affects all colors more or less the same.

The color space is just a setting for your input device. If you go to calibrate and your white level of especially black level will not show what it should no matter what setting you use, then the color space is most likely wrong. That'll need set manually in the projector or source settings then.

I may have missed it if you did specify, but, what source are you using for this? DVD Player, Cable, BR Player, HTPC, other? What input cable are you using? And what have you seen so far in your white level and black level calibration attempts? White level = contrast setting, black level = brightness.
post #767 of 983
Quote:
Originally Posted by atabea View Post

Kspaz, thanks very much for your thoughtful response. I think I unerstand your point that even if it could be frustrating and takes a long time, the end result would be worth it. I don't think I have enough knowledge or confidence to tackle the color space issue because I don't even understand what it means. I will however, try to get the Contrast and Brightness dialed in as a starting point. I was curious though, whether or not the settings should be achieved when the iris was fully open (which is factory default) or when it was partially closed. I do find that the DVE blu ray disc content is a bit "preachy" and could have been made simpler. But then again, it could also be that I do not possess the necessary base knowledge to make a go at this. In any event, I shall keep trying and hopefully end up with an even better display.

Thanks

atabea

Here's how I would do it.

I would adjust the iris first and evaluate the picture quality using a variety of sources before you change any other settings. Select an iris setting that you think looks best. Adjustments made using a dvd will only be correct for the dvd player. Other sources may need slightly different settings.

You ultimately want to have the brightness control turned up enough to see any shadow detail that is in the picture. ( But you may feel the urge to turn it down to make the blacks look blacker. ) If you can, pause the picture, and move the brightness up or down and look at the detail in a dark object like blue-jeans, or a dark suit. (Brightness controls the near blacks. Contrast controls the near whites.) Leave the contrast at default unless you have a really good reason to increase it. For color control, reduce it to zero, and then raise it to about 30 after you've looked at the black and white picture for a few moments. Watch with it set at 30 a minute or so, then bump it up a couple clicks, and watch some more. Keep increasing it slowly till it looks natural, but try not to go much higher than necessary. Take some notes as you make comparisons. I think brightly lit outdoor scenes are the best for judging the color. A dim scene with low lighting will not have near as much color, and you may adjust it too high in an effort to improve it.
post #768 of 983
Hi kbgl - I would respectfully point out that what you describe is not calibration however. It is adjusting the settings by eye to what you think looks best. That and proper calibration are not the same.

Atabea - Here's my $.02 regarding calibration. The X10, like previous Infocus projectors, does not require much effort to get a pretty accurate picture. Choose an iris setting that you like - the setting should not change the calibration in any meaningful way.

Don't mess with the color and hue settings. Those are holdovers from the analog days and if the color decoding in your digital chain is working properly you should not need to touch. You can verify with test patterns and blue lenses if you wish however. When I did this the default settings were spot on, as expected. Here is a link to easier test patterns and a source for the blue lenses:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post16790625

For contrast and brightness, use test patterns. There's a trick to setting brightness on DLP projectors, even without a test pattern. Display a black screen (or look at letterbox bars), get close to the screen, and increase brightness until dithering in black is obvious. Then decrease the brightness until the dithering stops - that will be the correct setting. You can confirm with a pluge test pattern.

For sharpness, the standard setting introduces edge enhancement and ringing. Select "softer" unless you don't mind the artifacts, and wish to have fine detail emphasized (some like it that way).

For gamma, select "Film" when viewing film content. "CRT" is also OK, but you will lose black detail at the expense of perceived contrast. "Video" would be OK for video sources. Forget the rest. The reasons have been discussed in threads for previous Infocus PJs. I could probably dig up some links if anyone cares. I'm assuming Infocus has been consistent with their gamma settings from PJ to PJ, and that appears to be the case to my eyes at least.

You need calibration equipment to properly adjust the grey scale (color gains and offset menu), so don't attempt by eye unless you are one of the unlucky few whose X10 has obvious color issues out of the box (noticeably pushes red, green, etc). It's here where an ISF calibration would get you that extra 5-10% improvement. Your X10 should be fairly close to D65 out of the box though.

Other than that, leave everything else at default (e.g white peaking to 0, no BC) and you are done. As K-Spaz mentioned, color space can be an issue (especially with an HTPC), but if you are using a BD player, you're best off leaving it at AUTO unless you see in that player's thread in the BD forum that it has color space issues (should be rare though).
post #769 of 983
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffKB View Post

Hi kbgl - I would respectfully point out that what you describe is not calibration however. It is adjusting the settings by eye to what you think looks best. That and proper calibration are not the same.

Atabea - Here's my $.02 regarding calibration. The X10, like previous Infocus projectors, does not require much effort to get a pretty accurate picture. Choose an iris setting that you like - the setting should not change the calibration in any meaningful way.

Don't mess with the color and hue settings. Those are holdovers from the analog days and if the color decoding in your digital chain is working properly you should not need to touch. You can verify with test patterns and blue lenses if you wish however. When I did this the default settings were spot on, as expected. Here is a link to easier test patterns and a source for the blue lenses:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post16790625

For contrast and brightness, use test patterns. There's a trick to setting brightness on DLP projectors, even without a test pattern. Display a black screen (or look at letterbox bars), get close to the screen, and increase brightness until dithering in black is obvious. Then decrease the brightness until the dithering stops - that will be the correct setting. You can confirm with a pluge test pattern.

For sharpness, the standard setting introduces edge enhancement and ringing. Select "softer" unless you don't mind the artifacts, and wish to have fine detail emphasized (some like it that way).

For gamma, select "Film" when viewing film content. "CRT" is also OK, but you will lose black detail at the expense of perceived contrast. "Video" would be OK for video sources. Forget the rest. The reasons have been discussed in threads for previous Infocus PJs. I could probably dig up some links if anyone cares. I'm assuming Infocus has been consistent with their gamma settings from PJ to PJ, and that appears to be the case to my eyes at least.

You need calibration equipment to properly adjust the grey scale (color gains and offset menu), so don't attempt by eye unless you are one of the unlucky few whose X10 has obvious color issues out of the box (noticeably pushes red, green, etc). It's here where an ISF calibration would get you that extra 5-10% improvement. Your X10 should be fairly close to D65 out of the box though.

Other than that, leave everything else at default (e.g white peaking to 0, no BC) and you are done. As K-Spaz mentioned, color space can be an issue (especially with an HTPC), but if you are using a BD player, you're best off leaving it at AUTO unless you see in that player's thread in the BD forum that it has color space issues (should be rare though).

Hi JeffKB - I would respectfully point out that I didn't say it was a "proper" calibration. A "proper" calibration is a waste of time! An ISF calibration is a waste of money! (IMHO of course.) In the end, you want a picture that you like, whether it's technically absolutely, positively, 100% theoretically correct, does not matter. It matters to some people though, because they want to tell everyone that it is. Even in a "proper" calibration, there will be compromises. Your comments about gamma selection couldn't be "proper" calibration could they? Surely only one gamma selection is correct, but you state that using either is OK. Same with sharpness. Only one can be correct, yet you say to pick what you like the best. And what about that iris adjustment that changes the picture in a MAJOR way. You said "Choose an iris setting that you like". Surely only one iris setting is correct. Sounds a whole lot like adjusting by eye to me! Oh.. and what channel and time is the test pattern being broadcast for my HDTV ATSC tuners? I really want to record it on my DVD recorder, so that I can "properly" calibrate its playback on component inputs. If it's not broadcast too late, maybe I can stay up and calibrate for live viewing on HDMI as well. Or maybe I should simply adjust all inputs to match the adjustments made using my Avia test disc and my $40 dvd player (connected with $3 component cables.) Then I can rest assured that everything is adjusted to perfection, and if HDTV looks washed out, or oversaturated, or a little blue, then that's just the way it's supposed to look.
post #770 of 983
Kbgl,

Unfortunately, there are steps in calibration that the Avia disk doesn't tell you about. These are left out because they make the assumption that your display and source are talking correctly. If your TV isn't set like the source, you will end up making the conclusions that you've made, believing some subjective or default setting is the "best". Every display is different. Some don't even have menu options for those settings. This is why you hear them say on the cal disk , "IF your display has a ...setting, do xyz".

I don't want to begin some flame war, but I think that most will agree that a proper calibration is really important to any device displaying images correctly, and that on a digital display, it's all but mandatory

Yes a display might look ok with everything set to defaults. Set properly though they look a LOT better. This isn't subjective, it's a fact.. When you see a display set up correctly, what you saw out of the box will no longer be acceptable. There are things that I can guarantee you cannot see with a "eyeball it in" settings. It is impossible for the display to put that detail on the screen. Physically impossible. It simply won't display all colors, period.

Iris and Gamma, yea they're subjective to some degree. They change so little that sure, most any setting will work ok. THOSE are the things you set subjectively from movie to movie. Not the contrast, brightness and color controls.

With improper settings, there are details which are not on the screen, period. I'd just about defy you to set these with anything but a test image. This is not hard to figure out and it's an indisputable fact. Now, if you want to make the statement that "I like it wrong", then that's fine, it won't affect my display any. Just please keep in mind, there are settings on any display that have one and only one correct value, and others that you can use to please your eye. Do
the absolute ones first, and it'll make the image more pleasing.

If I set my display with a calibration image and I can see all the graduations properly, and you set yours and with that same image displayed, you cannot see all the graduations, you can pretty much assume that there are things that will be on my screen that won't be on yours.

Just fyi, imho, the Avia disk is about worthless...

Quote:


Other than that, leave everything else at default (e.g white peaking to 0, no BC) and you are done. As K-Spaz mentioned, color space can be an issue (especially with an HTPC), but if you are using a BD player, you're best off leaving it at AUTO unless you see in that player's thread in the BD forum that it has color space issues (should be rare though)

While I agree with this, unfortunately for me, my Panasonic DVD/VCR combo does not work correctly in "Auto", via Composite or component, of which I have to use both.
post #771 of 983
I don't believe your "Indesputable" facts. Period! But your right, it's not worth arguing about.
post #772 of 983
Quote:
Originally Posted by atabea View Post

Hi all,

Since I am operating with a low ceiling and the X10 has a horendous offset, I am thinking of using an ultra low profile mount (with only a 2.5 inch drop from ceiling to top of PJ) so I can take advantage of every available inch. Would a 2.5 inch drop be adequate for ventilation and tilt? Is anyone else using an iultra-low profile mount? Of course, my other option is to buy the dedicated mount from infocus, but that is very expensive.

Thanks

I had the same issues. I bought a low profile mount (PMS-0001) from mountdirect and it sits at about 2.5 to 3 inches from my ceiling. I also had to do a 2 inch screen tilt (used a 2x4 french cleat to hang the screen). The mount works great and I've had no issues at all with heat, projector tilt, or anyone noticing that my screen is tilted.
Most of my buddies simply stand there with their mouths open and say "I gotta get one of these"
post #773 of 983
I know it has been brought up before but it is worth repeating that, for those of you west of the Rockies, Home Depot has a product called Doable board in 4x8 sheets that makes a fantastic screen for $19. There is an entire thread on Doable boards.
post #774 of 983
NVM, found the answer, all enjoy this nice piece of work!
post #775 of 983
I have had my X10 for almost 3 weeks now, and have it mated to a Sony BDP 350S Blu-ray player. What I have noticed going to HD from my 4805....

Some movies really look better on blu-ray than others - even more so than DVD. Perhaps it is just that some films have a bigger "WOW Look at me" factor than others, or perhaps it is a bigger variation is source material and remastering. I am not sure. All I can say is that some HD material really pops out at me and others just seems to be a little bit better than upscaled DVD material.

the x10 is brighter than the 4805 which is nice because we recently moved and the new video room has more ambient light than the old one. I need some heavier curtains for the room in the not too distant future

Speaking up upscaling - I have been really impressed with how good many standard DVD's look on the system. There were some DVD's that I did not like to blow up to 96" because any errors in pixelation or deinterlacing or what not were very obvious on a large screen and detracted from watching them. The BDP 350 and X10 combo make these DVD's viewable on the the large screen.

I think I prefer turning off the "film' settings and keeping my system at 60 fps for just about everything I watch. Am I committing a terrible heresy by writing that? Sometimes I think I notice a difference and sometimes I think I must be imagining things.

A bit off topic - Sound. The sound with this system seems a bit more ... I guess dynamic... than my old system. The difference between soft sounds and loud sounds seems a bit greater. When I turn the volume up to hear a soft conversation, my ears get blasted when the big action sequences happen. I need to try a few more setting on my Denon AVR 1909 to find a happy medium.

Overall it's been worth it to upgrade. Now that the house is almost settled down I need to start having folks over for movie nights!

MB
post #776 of 983
Quote:
Originally Posted by mbitigger View Post

I have had my X10 for almost 3 weeks now, and have it mated to a Sony BDP 350S Blu-ray player. What I have noticed going to HD from my 4805....

Some movies really look better on blu-ray than others - even more so than DVD. Perhaps it is just that some films have a bigger "WOW Look at me" factor than others, or perhaps it is a bigger variation is source material and remastering. I am not sure. All I can say is that some HD material really pops out at me and others just seems to be a little bit better than upscaled DVD material.

the x10 is brighter than the 4805 which is nice because we recently moved and the new video room has more ambient light than the old one. I need some heavier curtains for the room in the not too distant future

Speaking up upscaling - I have been really impressed with how good many standard DVD's look on the system. There were some DVD's that I did not like to blow up to 96" because any errors in pixelation or deinterlacing or what not were very obvious on a large screen and detracted from watching them. The BDP 350 and X10 combo make these DVD's viewable on the the large screen.

I think I prefer turning off the "film' settings and keeping my system at 60 fps for just about everything I watch. Am I committing a terrible heresy by writing that? Sometimes I think I notice a difference and sometimes I think I must be imagining things.

A bit off topic - Sound. The sound with this system seems a bit more ... I guess dynamic... than my old system. The difference between soft sounds and loud sounds seems a bit greater. When I turn the volume up to hear a soft conversation, my ears get blasted when the big action sequences happen. I need to try a few more setting on my Denon AVR 1909 to find a happy medium.

Overall it's been worth it to upgrade. Now that the house is almost settled down I need to start having folks over for movie nights!

MB


You are absolutely correct ........ not all Blu-Rays are mastered as well as they should be... it depends on who is doing the transfer, how careful they are, the quality of the original they are making the transfer from... bunches of things and many times they just "schlock" the job so they can do a quick and dirty release on Blu-ray.
post #777 of 983
ok I have only used the projector for 45 hours and now I have a problem with it. Half the screen (left side) has a pink hue and the right side seems normal. This started areound hour 44. Is this a defective projector? Am I out of luck since TigerDirect is out of them? Will Infocus warranty it and guarantee I get the same or new bulb back?

I have attached a scren shot so you can see.

post #778 of 983
Quote:
Originally Posted by realdragonluv View Post

ok I have only used the projector for 45 hours and now I have a problem with it. Half the screen (left side) has a pink hue and the right side seems normal. This started areound hour 44. Is this a defective projector? Am I out of luck since TigerDirect is out of them? Will Infocus warranty it and guarantee I get the same or new bulb back?

I have attached a scren shot so you can see.


If you haven't already, try cycling the power and/or the brilliant color on/off... this is a pretty common 'feature' that generally does not persist. Happened to me once... cycled the power and have not seen it since.
post #779 of 983
Quote:
Originally Posted by dougri View Post

If you haven't already, try cycling the power and/or the brilliant color on/off... this is a pretty common 'feature' that generally does not persist. Happened to me once... cycled the power and have not seen it since.

Yup, uncheck Briliant Color, and it should be cured right away. The next time you power on, you can reselect Brilliant Color if you want it. It should be OK until... the next time it happens, maybe in a few days, maybe in a few weeks, so repeat when necessary. At least it's a cheap and easy fix.
post #780 of 983
Whew. Thanks a lot for the help and good news on that. I saw it did go away this morning but I was still worried it was something more serious.

My only other question is if the image shift function causes PQ degradation or not?
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