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Help, CSS SDX 15" sub bottoming out!

post #1 of 18
Thread Starter 
A couple of weeks ago I finished building a sealed CCS SDX 15" sub. The enclousure size is 3.75cf (internal), the amp is ED LT1300 and a ED EQ2 eq.
After running my yamaha YPEO, the sub is caligrated with my radio shack digital meter. The sub is on a space of 4,500-5,000cf room. The sub sounds good on music and at moderate levels, good on movies too. The problem is when the sub hits around 100db or higher on movies such as explosions, it makes a popping sound (driver bottoms out). My sitting position is 9ft from the sub. The receiver LFE setting is at 0 and the output at -10. Crossover is set at 80, small on the speakers and calibrated with the sub at 75db. The volume on the amp is set at 10:00 and the phase is 0. I've run it with and without the ED EQ2 but no luck getting rid of that popping sound. I plugged the receiver and the sub to different outlets (I thought maybe a lack of current from one outlet was a factor), well, no luck. I don't believe the amp is clipping. The enclousure is made out of birch ply, heavily braced (check my forum on "first CCS SDX 15" sub made" here. The space from the back of the driver to the plate amp is about 4". Maybe the sub is not wired correctly? It's a D2oms sub. Thanks for your help.
post #2 of 18
My guess would be that the amp is clipping and not that the sub is bottoming out. 100db is asking alot out of that amp...especially if you are EQ'ing the upper freq's down to help bring up the low end.
post #3 of 18
The CSS SDX 15 is not going to bottom out, not even remotely close on that kind of power and that small a box.

Illka tested that driver in a 100 liter box, and drove it with a Crown CE4000 on 220v, 3,600 watts available. ( check out the Home Theater Shack forum )

You have a pretty large room and should have multiples of that sub in there, there is a chance that you are expecting a bit much out of it, clipping the amp before the driver is even sweating. Of course two subs of that size with a much larger amp is a much better bet than just one.

Edit: I just checked the model, and with accounting for 100 degree F temp rise on the voice coil... you are close with 1kw PIN, but I bet that amp does about 800 or so into 4R, has anyone tested the output of them> ?

I was going on memory, and the 7 cu ft I recommended would be for a vented alignment, I edited it to remove that.
post #4 of 18
Does anyone know the xmech on that driver? If it's eq'd it could possibly be pushing to hard at the lower frequencies. I don't really think that's it, but it's a possibility.
post #5 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by brandonnash View Post

Does anyone know the xmech on that driver? If it's eq'd it could possibly be pushing to hard at the lower frequencies. I don't really think that's it, but it's a possibility.

The retailer's website claims it's 40 mm.
post #6 of 18
I can get a clacking sound out of my SDX's with low bass. They are in 4ft ea but I am using a CE4000. I have no experience with the LT1300 so I have no idea how much power it may actually have, but I'd expect no more than 900w.

Mike,
There is no way that one SDX will take full power from a bridged CE4000 at low freq's mechanically. Thermally it may. I don't think that just because Illka used a CE4000 means that he let it rip wide open at the lowest freq's. There would have been some damaged drivers for sure.
post #7 of 18
Thread Starter 
I've read someone tested the LT1300 plate amp (don't remember the site) and it put out 1332 watts, so it seems to perform up to manufacturer's specs. The CSS SDX 15" sub has a Xmax of 30mm and it says 1000rms. I have the box stuffed with 3.75 lbs of polyfill (1 lb per 1 sf). I'm going to test it again with a heavy bass movie to see if the amp is clipping.
post #8 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by spanish68 View Post

I've read someone tested the LT1300 plate amp (don't remember the site) and it put out 1332 watts, so it seems to perform up to manufacturer's specs. The CSS SDX 15" sub has a Xmax of 30mm and it says 1000rms. I have the box stuffed with 3.75 lbs of polyfill (1 lb per 1 sf). I'm going to test it again with a heavy bass movie to see if the amp is clipping.

I actually had a problem with my first one clipping also. I had 1 of the voice coils go out. you may want to check that. also i run my ce2000 at the 3:00 position and since i've gotten the replacement there has been no problems.
post #9 of 18
Thread Starter 
Ivisneau, I think you nailed it, a friend of mine came to eat in my house today and he is telling me the same (he told me before I read your post about a bad coil on your sub). He's handy doing electrical work and while testing the sub with some mid level bass scenes, he pressed the sub inward some with his hand and you could hear the popping (clanking) sound even more, he told me the same, that it's a bad coil. The amp did not clip at all during the heavy bass scenes. I bought this driver used and it seems it came defective, that sucks. I suspected it was the driver from the beginning.
Can a bad coil be fixed? Any way around that? The good part is I got a TC Sounds 3000 used for $300 a couple of days ago on Ebay. I plan to replace the SDX 15" sub with the 3000 by next week when I get it. It should be an upgrade (if it works!), on the same enclousure with the same amp.
post #10 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by spanish68 View Post

Ivisneau, I think you nailed it, a friend of mine came to eat in my house today and he is telling me the same (he told me before I read your post about a bad coil on your sub). He's handy doing electrical work and while testing the sub with some mid level bass scenes, he pressed the sub inward some with his hand and you could hear the popping (clanking) sound even more, he told me the same, that it's a bad coil. The amp did not clip at all during the heavy bass scenes. I bought this driver used and it seems it came defective, that sucks. I suspected it was the driver from the beginning.
Can a bad coil be fixed? Any way around that? The good part is I got a TC Sounds 3000 used for $300 a couple of days ago on Ebay. I plan to replace the SDX 15" sub with the 3000 by next week when I get it. It should be an upgrade (if it works!), on the same enclousure with the same amp.

I checked mine with a low signal to one coil and then to the other. one side worked and one did'nt (duh!). that really sucked cuz i had just built that thing, but css replaced it for free after some e-mails and such. the tc3000 will do the trick for sure but i don't think the holes will line up.
post #11 of 18
Thread Starter 
Next week, when I get the TC Sounds 3000 sub, I'm going to take the SDX 15 out and test each coil individually. It sounds fine, only when pushed hard it starts making noises. After checking the measurements, it looks like I'm going to have to cut the bafle about a quarter inch to fit the 3000. The bafle is 1.5" and the driver is going flush mounted, so cutting the outside bafle .75" is not going to be easy at all, any ideas?
post #12 of 18
Do you have a DMM? Measure the RE of both vc's. That sucks if one of your coils is damaged. Didn't you buy it used? I'd talk to the guy who sold it to you.
post #13 of 18
The SDX will not take even all the juice a single bridged PLX2 3602 can deliver when you try to reproduce extreme LF. Thermal is good to have but you can bottom out ANY driver. You will reach mechanical limits sooner or later,the spider,the sourround or the VC hitting the back of the plate. Something has to give,there no such thing as a sub driver that cannot be bottomed.

When testing drivers I always monitor what happens with test tones down to single digits,just to see where the limits may start to kick in.
post #14 of 18
Is it better to use Dreamweaver or to write code yourself using XHTML and CSS? This is for static brochure website. I was thinking of turning off Dreamweaver's code writing, and doing it myself, because of all the unnecessary code DW writes.
post #15 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by narmada View Post

Is it better to use Dreamweaver or to write code yourself using XHTML and CSS? This is for static brochure website. I was thinking of turning off Dreamweaver's code writing, and doing it myself, because of all the unnecessary code DW writes.

its always better to write your own code for a small or large project...if its really large, you'll want to use a server side API and generate the pages.
most website, over 99.9% have invalid HTML... its vital to understand how to strucutre it. Also HTML is not entire structured. its really better to use XHTML with which has a formal set structure to it, more rules to follow etc etc and more universal and portable.


beyond that, i should probably point out that you missed not only the thread topic, but forum and entire website topic by a long shot. So my guess is that you are a bot that scanned the thread topic and found a keyword "CSS" and and generated this response in order to gain enough posts so you can spam this board with links later on????

just a guess......
post #16 of 18
Kyle,
lol, you crack me up. 4AM and your talking to the bot
post #17 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by NEO Dan View Post

Kyle,
lol, you crack me up. 4AM and your talking to the bot

hahah at least they dont argue back.
post #18 of 18
I read your response and was like what the heck happened to this thread. Funny.
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