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Official JVC RS20/HD750 Owners Thread! - Page 133  

post #3961 of 5082
Quote:
Originally Posted by R Harkness View Post

Stewart generally recommends the Firehawk for "problematic" rooms - i.e. rooms in which ambient light, or light decor may cause issues in lowering image contrast. If you have a well controlled light situation without particularly light decor (standard dedicated rooms), then Stewart seems to always recommend the ST-130. More even illumination, greater over all gain, fewer issues with screen surface "sparkly" artifacts and a much wider viewing angle, less possible hot-spotting. And, as people say, it will generally look to have more intense colors.

I've tested out my samples of the ST-130 and Firehawk materials. What was interesting to me is that when I looked for ANSI-like contrast performance the results weren't what I expected. I had decently controlled light and the samples weren't really big, so there wasn't a lot of room light contamination. But I still expected the Firehawk to show more contrast when I had darker against brighter details. Actually I found the reverse. For instance, I had an image of a chain link fence at sunset. The links in the chain provided that perfect mix of a portion of each link being dark, against another portion lit up from the sun on the other side of the fence. I was expecting the contrast of those chain links to look more...contrasty...on the Firehawk. But actually they seemed to look punchier and more contrasty, by a bit, on the ST-130. I'm sure it's a bit of a perceptual trick, but the dark areas on the ST-130 in such an instance didn't look appreciably lighter than on the Firehawk, but the bright areas looked definitely brighter, so the effect was a bit more pop and contrast.

This generally seemed to be the case wherever I could put the samples on a light-against-dark portion of an image.

FWIW.

(I've chosen the ST-130 as my screen material. After comparing a number of materials, there was just something about the ST-130 that had a "just right" feel about it and a certain combination of pop, clarity and realism without major issues (like screen texture, poor viewing angles, hot-spotting etc. I swear though, choosing a screen ultimately seemed harder and more encouraging of neurosis than buying a projector!

Thanks to report your experience, and I'm agree with your choice

Wish to ask:
Did you setted 2 calibrated individual banks stored memories ( aka User1 - User 2) with the almost same nits a 100% ( or best available ) when you compared the 2 different Stewart surface matherials ??

Doing so, (with a dedicate calibration), switching back and forth between the memories aimed to the relate screen matherials, I found that differences are still there but really more subtle !
post #3962 of 5082
To help anyone who wants to remotely control the DLA-HD350, DLA-HD750, DLA-RS10 or DLA-RS20, either by RS-232C connection or by Infrared, I have written a Remote Control Guide. This contains details of remote commands, return codes and other related information. It is available for download from The JVC support website.
post #3963 of 5082
Quote:
Originally Posted by GaryB_UK View Post

To help anyone who wants to remotely control the DLA-HD350, DLA-HD750, DLA-RS10 or DLA-RS20, either by RS-232C connection or by Infrared, I have written a Remote Control Guide. This contains details of remote commands, return codes and other related information. It is available for download from The JVC support website.

Gary -

Thanks.
I'm thinking about remotes and automation now, so this is very timely for me.

Mike
post #3964 of 5082
While we're waiting to read Greg Rogers' review of the RS20 and not much else is happening here, I have an OT question:

do many of you RS20 owners have a power conditioner/surge protection/battery backup box for your HT? Particularly, the 'power conditioner'--is this a relevant feature, or just marketing?
post #3965 of 5082
Quote:
Originally Posted by GaryB_UK View Post

To help anyone who wants to remotely control the DLA-HD350, DLA-HD750, DLA-RS10 or DLA-RS20, either by RS-232C connection or by Infrared, I have written a Remote Control Guide. This contains details of remote commands, return codes and other related information. It is available for download from The JVC support website.

Gary, great manual, much more detailed than the JVC manual. The additional commands and details will be useful. I'm currently in the process of programming my Pronto Pro remote for 1-way RS-232 control. I may look into 2-way at some point.

One addition that might be helpful would be the inclusion of the serial port parameters (19200, 8, n, 1). I didn't notice that in the document.

Thanks for posting the link!
post #3966 of 5082
Quote:
Originally Posted by millerwill View Post

While we're waiting to read Greg Rogers' review of the RS20 and not much else is happening here, I have an OT question:

do many of you RS20 owners have a power conditioner/surge protection/battery backup box for your HT? Particularly, the 'power conditioner'--is this a relevant feature, or just marketing?

Surge: Whole house surge protection (MOV based) and Surge-X SEQ for rack
UPS: Furman

See full system details in my signature.

The UPS may have utility for brownouts and short blackouts and if you program it to allow the projector to shutdown (with fan) to preserve bulb.

Mike
post #3967 of 5082
Thanks, Mike, but I think your 'solution' is way beyond what I was thinking about. I've seen the announcement about a new Panmax product, the MX5102 for $650, but monprice seems to have a unit that reads like it does the same thing for $175. Anybody familiar with the monoprice unit ("UPS Battery Backup for Audio & Video Home Theater Systems--1000VA/500W")?
post #3968 of 5082
I wonder if gregr's review will be tomorrow? (or pushed to next week?)
post #3969 of 5082
Bill - I was using an APC J15 I think with the RS1. It worked great for the frequent brown outs I was getting when I was living in Florida. When I moved to Toronto and switched to the RS20, I tried a PS Audio Powerplant Premier based on Bulldogger's advice and it suprisingly (to me) cleaned up some of the noise I was seeing with the RS20 originally. I haven't had a power outage yet so I'm not missing the APC's too much at the moment. I think I may have dirty power up here which was adding noise to the pic and which the APC didn't do as good a job filtering out as the PS Audio piece does.
post #3970 of 5082
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrlittlejeans View Post

Bill - I was using an APC J15 I think with the RS1. It worked great for the frequent brown outs I was getting when I was living in Florida. When I moved to Toronto and switched to the RS20, I tried a PS Audio Powerplant Premier based on Bulldogger's advice and it suprisingly (to me) cleaned up some of the noise I was seeing with the RS20 originally. I haven't had a power outage yet so I'm not missing the APC's too much at the moment. I think I may have dirty power up here which was adding noise to the pic and which the APC didn't do as good a job filtering out as the PS Audio piece does.

Wow, an impressive looking product! But weird to have to spend almost half the price of the RS20 just to be able to plug it in.
post #3971 of 5082
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carlton Bale View Post

Gary, great manual, much more detailed than the JVC manual. The additional commands and details will be useful. I'm currently in the process of programming my Pronto Pro remote for 1-way RS-232 control. I may look into 2-way at some point.

One addition that might be helpful would be the inclusion of the serial port parameters (19200, 8, n, 1). I didn't notice that in the document.

Thanks for posting the link!

The basic information is in the Instruction Book, which I mentioned on P2. You are however the second person to say that, so I'll probably add it when I do V1.1. I'm still hunting for more codes BTW. I think there may be a few more in there that aren't documented.
post #3972 of 5082
Quote:
Originally Posted by millerwill View Post

Wow, an impressive looking product! But weird to have to spend almost half the price of the RS20 just to be able to plug it in.

millerwill -

You can plug other things in as well!

I wouldn't get the "J" (stepped approximation to a sinewave).
Here was my general search for a surge/power product - link
Here were some comments on the APC J series:
- link1 (Ralph review of APC S15) and
- link2 (why to not get a J series)

I do own an APC H15 and H20 (no S series), so I'm not anti-APC in general.



Mike
post #3973 of 5082
Quote:
Originally Posted by millerwill View Post

While we're waiting to read Greg Rogers' review of the RS20 and not much else is happening here, I have an OT question:

do many of you RS20 owners have a power conditioner/surge protection/battery backup box for your HT? Particularly, the 'power conditioner'--is this a relevant feature, or just marketing?

I use a Belkin Pure/AV UPS and their Pure AV power conditioner. Every once in a while you can find them at various dealers pretty cheap, much less than MSRP. I think I bought the pair for less than $400 a year ago. I would not put a lot of money into either one and never have been able to drink the cool-aid that the clean power makes things sound and look better crowd do. I don't buy expensive cables either. I like to use the UPS for my projector and cable box. I use the power conditioner more for cable managment than to "clean" power. Plus, the pair looks cool. You can get them in black or silver.

A quick Amazon search shows several AV's on sale. http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&key...l_6qfbsda32r_b
post #3974 of 5082
I've tried several Power Conditioner, few also really realy Expensive, on my layout !
I got a remarkable Audio/Video results with 3 Shaffner filter wired in series !
But the real Great steps I clearly listend and saw was with the test of BlackNoise Filters
http://www.systemsandmagic.com/index...rodotti_en.htm
http://www.systemsandmagic.com/index...tecnica_en.htm
post #3975 of 5082
Just wondering what projector to get, Iam leanning more towards the JVC DLA HD-750. Not sure what to think about the 120hz option on the EPSON, I like it and I dont.

Anyways this projector will be in a total light controlled room, and I will be sitting around 9 to 12 feet from the screen, Iam thinking on going with a 100" screen. I have been thinking on going with the DA-LITE JKP Infinity Screen

I will be watching blueray movies mostly and playing ps3 and xbox.

What ProJo should I go with?
What size and type of screen should i go with?
post #3976 of 5082
As you are in the JVC owners thread I would say get a 750

I have a 2:35 Carada BW 119" wide with a Prismasonic FE5000R A lens and it is fantastic much better than the Dalite cosmopolitan 1.5 I had before.
post #3977 of 5082
My review will be posted today, Tuesday 6/9/09 at noon (Pacific Daylight Time). I opened a new thread for discussion of the review.
post #3978 of 5082
Thanks Greg
Do you have a link for it ??
Thanks very much
post #3979 of 5082
You need to be a subsciber and plug in your pass word. Gove to the widescreen review site www.widescreenreview.com and sign in.
post #3980 of 5082
Reaching out to some of you esteemed videphiles...

I am considering installing my projector behind the back wall of my dedicated room for aesthetic purposes. Based on the projection calculator on projector central, I get a maximum of 100 inches at 20.1 feet away. Based on this data, I have about inch or two to spare. Will I sacrifice any video performance as compared to my current position which is about 16.5 feet away @ 100 inches?

Current screen is a 100 inch Stewart StudioTek 130 (1.3 gain)

Thanks in advance everyone.

Tony
post #3981 of 5082
Thanks very much Mark
post #3982 of 5082
Now that I've found the HD750 at an authorized retailer with a 30 day, no hour limit, no restocking fee return policy (just pay return shipping), I have some questions for you.

1. Is the RS20/HD750 as sharp as the BenQ W5000???

2. Is the black level comparison of the Legendary logo, between the VW70 and the RS20 at www.projectorreviews.com/sony/vpl-vw70/image.php real??? Are the whites actually that much brighter on the JVC than other projectors in its price class in dark scenes???

3. In it's brightest mode, will the JVC be bright with a 159" HP, with the projector shelf mounted at a throw distance of 18' in a batcave???

4. Will using the HD750's brightest mode (for a 159" HP) raise its black level to the point that its blacks will then just equal other projectors that cost a lot less???

5. How many hours have you been getting from the RS20/HD750's lamp??? How much does it cost???

If the HD750 is sharp (I've read posts and reviews that stated that the RS20 is soft/average), if the whites really are that much brighter in dark scenes than other projectors and if a 159" HP, in a true batcave, isn't too big of a screen, I'll order one.

Thanks for your info and time in advance.
post #3983 of 5082
Quote:
Originally Posted by Elkhunter View Post

Now that I've found the HD750 at an authorized retailer with a 30 day, no hour limit, no restocking fee return policy (just pay return shipping), I have some questions for you.

1. Is the RS20/HD750 as sharp as the BenQ W5000???

2. Is the black level comparison of the Legendary logo, between the VW70 and the RS20 at www.projectorreviews.com/sony/vpl-vw70/image.php real??? Are the whites actually that much brighter on the JVC than other projectors in its price class in dark scenes???

3. In it's brightest mode, will the JVC be bright with a 159" HP, with the projector shelf mounted at a throw distance of 18' in a batcave???

4. Will using the HD750's brightest mode (for a 159" HP) raise its black level to the point that its blacks will then just equal other projectors that cost a lot less???

5. How many hours have you been getting from the RS20/HD750's lamp??? How much does it cost???

If the HD750 is sharp (I've read posts and reviews that stated that the RS20 is soft/average), if the whites really are that much brighter in dark scenes than other projectors and if a 159" HP, in a true batcave, isn't too big of a screen, I'll order one.

Thanks for your info and time in advance.

I can answer your 3rd question

The JVC can have deep blacks and bright whites simultaneously because of its extreme contrat ratio. On a large screen like that you may need to pump up brightness to get good whites, but the high contrast ratio will still give you deep blacks. No matter what the screen size, etc, the black level will still be 30000x less than the white level. That's the beauty of the iris. You adjust it to give you a light level you are comfortable with for your screen.
post #3984 of 5082
If anyone is using a Harmony 890 to control the Zoom and Shift functions on the RS-20please go to the Remote Area on AVS and let me know how you set it up. I have a thread there.

Thanks much,

Randy
post #3985 of 5082
Greyscale field uniformity with the RS20?

Hey folks -- has anyone seen issue with uniformity on this projector? Is there variation between models, or are they all pretty good?
post #3986 of 5082
Quote:
Originally Posted by Elkhunter View Post

Now that I've found the HD750 at an authorized retailer with a 30 day, no hour limit, no restocking fee return policy (just pay return shipping), I have some questions for you.

Sounds like you can try one with very little risk. Why don't you try it and see what you think?

159" is a pretty big screen. I would not be concerned about your blacks so much as I would be be about your brightness.

You also seem concered about sharpness. It is sharp but not as sharp as a good 1 chipper might be.
post #3987 of 5082
I'm trying to avoid that $$$$ learning curve thing. To poor to buy cheap, and I don't want to buy it twice, like almost everything in my system to date. I'm trying to work with 1 local dealer and another dealer 45 miles out. One sells JVC and the other sells the JVC/PRO. They both offer conflicting information. The problem I have, I'll be firing the HD-750 the depth of the room 12'01" end of wall to the screen. Want a 92" diagonal screen. Seating distance will be approximately 8'5"-9'0". I currently have a Pioneer FHD1 that replaced a Mits WD-65831. The Mitsubishi's picture was to grainy. Source component at the time was a Denon DVD-2930CI now replaced by a Denon DVD-3800BDCI. What I have now is very good, just to small. My audio system creates a big boy sound and then this pip squeak plasma does not fit the sound. Even my 65" grainy Mits. picture, could have been bigger but with no grain. I have done enuff math to know that 2.35 aspect ratio is not a good solution in this application. This is my master bedroom. 12'.01"deep X 15'03"wide. I want the biggest picture I can get with no grain at my seating position and I do not want to buy an out board processor for $6K and the HD-350 for $4'500. one option given. For those of you who own the HD-750,is this set up possible. I paid $7k for my Tempurpedic bed which will vibrate with out quarters and also can place my wife and I in an upright position. Again I can not afford to buy this stuff twice. I really like movies I have well over 450BD's and 1200DVD's. This video thing really knocks me out. First exposure to home theater was 2004 and I'm hooked good. I really believe JVC is to front projection as Pioneer Elite Kuro is to plasma. Any and all help will be sincerely appreciated. ...................Renmeister
post #3988 of 5082
Based on much of the threads I've been poring over, the RS20 does not do very well with cable TV / Satellite HD/SD signals. What is the general recommendation then, do the conversion in the AVR / video processor? That will leave out the Pioneer SC07 i was thinking about since it does not process digital inputs...

Thanks in advance for any advice.
Mike
post #3989 of 5082
Quote:
Originally Posted by renmeister View Post

I'm trying to avoid that $$$$ learning curve thing. To poor to buy cheap, and I don't want to buy it twice, like almost everything in my system to date. I'm trying to work with 1 local dealer and another dealer 45 miles out. One sells JVC and the other sells the JVC/PRO. They both offer conflicting information. The problem I have, I'll be firing the HD-750 the depth of the room 12'01" end of wall to the screen. Want a 92" diagonal screen. Seating distance will be approximately 8'5"-9'0". I currently have a Pioneer FHD1 that replaced a Mits WD-65831. The Mitsubishi's picture was to grainy. Source component at the time was a Denon DVD-2930CI now replaced by a Denon DVD-3800BDCI. What I have now is very good, just to small. My audio system creates a big boy sound and then this pip squeak plasma does not fit the sound. Even my 65" grainy Mits. picture, could have been bigger but with no grain. I have done enuff math to know that 2.35 aspect ratio is not a good solution in this application. This is my master bedroom. 12'.01"deep X 15'03"wide. I want the biggest picture I can get with no grain at my seating position and I do not want to buy an out board processor for $6K and the HD-350 for $4'500. one option given. For those of you who own the HD-750,is this set up possible. I paid $7k for my Tempurpedic bed which will vibrate with out quarters and also can place my wife and I in an upright position. Again I can not afford to buy this stuff twice. I really like movies I have well over 450BD's and 1200DVD's. This video thing really knocks me out. First exposure to home theater was 2004 and I'm hooked good. Neither dealer will loan me a unit, something I became used to during my audiophool days. I really believe JVC is to front projection as Pioneer Elite Kuro is to plasma. Any and all help will be sincerely appreciated. ...................Renmeister

OK, I'll bite and assume this is for real. Go to your JVC dealer and view an image from your actual viewing distance. Grain is not a problem on my 88" screen at 9'. If the source is grainy of course you'll see it, but in my experience with the RS20 it provides a more film look than most digitial projectors, FP or RP.
post #3990 of 5082
Quote:
Originally Posted by egrady View Post

OK, I'll bite and assume this is for real. Go to your JVC dealer and view an image from your actual viewing distance. Grain is not a problem on my 88" screen at 9'. If the source is grainy of course you'll see it, but in my experience with the RS20 it provides a more film look than most digitial projectors, FP or RP.

I appreciate your response to my question. Unfortunately my dealer has last years model wit a Lumagen and he likes it a lot. The other dealer has on display a JVC HDLA-350. After looking at all my available options, I think the JVC HDLA-750 or the RS-20 is my best solution. I just moved from a state of the art 2ch system. It took years to acquire the knowledge and money to do this. As knowledgeable as I am in the 2ch realm, I'm equally inept on projectors & screens and setup. Again thanks for the help and the opinion..........Renmeister
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