Official JVC RS20/HD750 Owners Thread! - Page 165  

I'm looking for a SF Bay Area recommendation for a calibrator. I'm starting enquiries in this thread because i'd much prefer someone who has a long list of RS20 calibration under their belt.

(I was scheduled with UMR in June but now my day job has gotten in the way of a mid week daytime calibration that week.)

I had the same issue.. A lot of Home Theater companies around the Bay I have talked to don't seem to really push JVC except Magnolia and Century Stereo in San Jose.. BTW I will never do business with Century Stereo due to their rude customer service. And several people have experience rude customer service from them. Seems to be if your not a client willing to spend $100k they don't want you.

Yeah, I think I'll do almost as well using HCFR+Sypder2 versus choosing some green calibrator from a local shop. Really, I'd like to get an experienced pro to establish a baseline of excellence.

In the absence of being able to get UMR, I'm hoping to find another top drawer calibrator. I know there aren't a lot. And, ironically, here in the tech capital of the world, there are far fewer than in other parts of the US!

Lately the fan noise from my RS20 seems like its louder then at first. I haven't switched any of the settings. I am noticing it louder then my FPJ1 (RS2) was.. Anyone else have this problem?

Chris, have you checked the filter? I do mine (HD350) every 100 hours or so as it's easy to rinse under a tap, dry and refit.

only have 30 hours on the projector. I can clearly hear the projector running during quite scenes in a movie. Is this the case with everyone? I thought the RS20 was whisper quite. Maybe that is the RS25?

It depends on how close you are to it, whether you are using 'Normal' lamp (louder fan) or 'Eco' lamp mode. There is also a High altitude setting which will make it louder.

However, one man's quiet is another's noisy it seems as I've never had an issue with mine even when I ran it in Normal lamp for a while to cure the 400 hour flicker it had...I could just hear it if I muted the amp and mine is 8 feet behind me, but I have read of people saying they can hear their HDxxx clearly even in Eco lamp. Perhaps the change is more important in your case as this might indicate some issue, or perhaps even just higher ambient temperature?

Im pretty close to mine. Its about 3 1/2-4ft above my head..

My RS20 is about 2 ft from my head (on a stand just behind two recliners). When I mute the audio, I can barely hear a very low rustling sound, but cannot come close to hearing it with any audio in action, even when it is turned down quite low.

This is in Normal (low) lamp mode. In High mode, it is of course more noticeable, but again not at all with any reasonable audio level.

Mounted on ceiling.
Don't notice any noise.

Mike

My is on the ceiling also.. Hmm!

I purchased one of the "open-box" RS20s recently on sale by AVS and was wondering if they had the latest firmware (CMS fix). I didn't see any place where the firmware is listed on the menu (not on info page). Is this something that needs to be determined via the service menu?

Any help is appreciated!

Yes, you can see the FW version in the Service Menu.
Otherwise, a quicker check will be to enter the CMS settings and see the range of the controls. If you have a range of + - 30 you have the old firmware, if you have a range of + - 60, You have the latest firm
That's all

I have listened to two HD750s besides my own and all three are very quiet but definitely not silent. Mine hangs about two feet above my head and in low lamp I can easily hear it in silent movie passages, but it doesn't disturb me at all. I even tolerate it in high lamp mode nowadays since the lamp is a little dim at 2000+ hrs

When lived in Sunnyvale, I was very happy with calibration from Scott Schackel at Beeswing Audio Video, http://www.beeswing.com

I finally got to watch Avatar on my RS20 last night and WOW!

Who needs 3D! It looked like I was really looking through a window.

I finally got my RS20 calibrated recently. Went with the local Lion AV associate, Chuck Williams and I was quite pleased with the process and results.

I had previously calibrated the RS20 myself with HCFR and a Spyder2. That combo, combined with my inexperience, meant there was room for improvement across the board!

The whole process took about 4.5 hours, in part becuase I followed along every step of the way to learn all that I could, in part because I pressed for a little extra measuring at several steps to understand just how precise it is possible to get by doing the goldilocks "too far, then too little, then just right" approach to several settings, and in part becuase we didn't just do one setting but three:

1) *rec 709 for 2.35:1 films (this was our baseline on my 2.35:1 screen)
2) *rec 709 for 1.85:1 films (I use the zoom method which not only impacted what lense aperture to use but also slightly altered the gray scale)
3) *derivative of #2, but with a color temp setting that approximates the color of white produced by projector bulbs during the b/w era (since I love classic movies)

The images below show the before and after measurements (with the exception of the third dimension which the CIE chart doesn't show, though it too measured as close to spec as the measurements in the CIE chart). *The "before" measurements show what I was able to do on my own.


CIE BEFORE




CIE AFTER




RGB BEFORE AND AFTER




COLOR TEMP




GAMMA





These are the settings that generated the above "post" results, though you don't see the detailed gamma corrections here. *Note that these are likely NOT transferrable, since I am using a Stewart 2.0 gain screen which is color corrected for film and CRT.

Looks great Nathan. Can you post your gamma graph? (Not the one you posted, but rather the one that should look pretty much like a straight line assuming you did not set up a custom gamma curve).

Thanks for your calibration report. I've included it in the front projection (Post#1) list that's linked at the bottom of my post.

You mean another set of measurements or the actual 14 point custom curve in the projector? I don't think the values are visible all at once.

Its a graph that on the x axis has the IRE/% level (0-100) and on the y axis has the measured gamma. If your gamma measured perfectly, as an example, at 2.22 across the whole range then you'd have a straight horizontal line. This is usually more revealing than a gamma histogram which is what you posted originally.

FWIW (and it's not worth much, but...)

I finally saw a Planar DLP projector in action yesterday at an AV store (although it is now sold as Runco). Sorry I can't remember the model number, but it ran around $6,500. It was being shown on a JK Da Lite screen (I've been wanting to see that screen material as well).

Conditions weren't perfect but the upshot is I was expecting to see more ANSI-like contrast/image depth from what I get at home on my RS20. I didn't really get that, at least in this demo. It was a very bright image, but contrast on the Avatar scenes weren't great, nowhere near what I'm used to at home, particularly black levels. Playing the same scenes at home on my RS20/Stewart ST-130 screen it was another world in terms of image contrast and all around image solidity and depth.

Oh well. Just thought I'd mention it to fellow JVC owners.

This company has another Runco/Planar projector in another room that I didn't see and I plan to go back another time to check it out.

The RS20 is a "category killer." It kills everything in its category and the category above it. Period.

He didn't provide one like that but I would assume the data collected could generate it so I will ask and see.

Was the room a bat cave? There are plenty of posts at the forum saying the room has to be just about perfect to get close to the ANSI that a high-ANSI projector is capable of.

I have a noob question that has probably been answered 100 times already in this thread (but with 165 pages, I'm hoping someone can point me to a link!)

First question is left-to right. I am shifting it to 1.7" to the side of center, since the lens seems to be offset by that much. Is that correct, or is there built-in shift in the projector already to deal with the offset?

What about front to back distance? I can go anywhere from 12' (right over the front of my couch) to ~18' (back wall). Given a 120-126" screen size, this seems to be the entire zoom range of the hd750.

Can someone quantify the pros/cons of closer vs. further?

Closer to the screen seems like it would be brighter, but the noise from the projector would be right over my head. Brighter seems like it could also make the lamp last longer.

It seems like the only benefit to further-back is wrt fan noise? Or are there benefits to focus or something?

BTW, it will not be a complete bat-cave, but the windows will be completely blocked, and the walls painted a dark matte grey. The ceiling will be a lighter grey (same color, mixed with 25% white), and the carpet is TBD, but I will fight with my wife for darker rather than lighter :-)

Thanks in advance,
--Carey

I'm looking for a San Diego Area recommendation for a calibrator.

I'm starting inquiries in this thread because i'd much prefer someone who has a long list of RS25/35U calibration under their belt and doesn't charge $1000!!

Not sure you'll find that combo. I mean maybe a bit under 500 but not a lot under for someone with lots of experience.

The lense shift should handle the horizontal needs.

I think most people recommend the longest throw distance between screen and projector that you can manage without making the screen too large of course.

Does anyone know why people recommend the longest throw (I thought I had heard that too)? Seems like closer would be brighter, which seems like it would be generally better for bulb life, ambient light issues, etc.


Thanks,
--Carey