Official JVC RS10/HD350 Owners Thread! - Page 41

I just sold my projector to buy an rs10 and now your telling me there are none left? How long till the 550s release and at what msrp?

So, the PJ has discrete IR codes for each input, but the JVC supplied remote does not output the commands?

How is your Harmony set up? Is there a 30 sec delay or so on power on to select input? What happens when you switch between TV and DVD while the power is still on?

I had a Universal MX800 that I gave up on because it was too finicky with the input delays.

Right now, I'm considering two options:

1. Harmony 890 or 900 with a time delay on power up to select input
2. Harmony 890 or 900 with an Oppo HDMI auto switch. Provided the switch works as promised, this seems like the best option. It allows me to add a game console later as well if I want.

Yup. Sad but true. I would happily trade the various picture setting buttons for direct inputs, but alas, no one asked me... I do like having User 1, 2, 3 buttons, however.


I have not yet built complete system use into my Harmony. I'm awaiting a new processor and that will require a total do-over. I just got tired of stepping thru the dead inputs to go from HDMI2 to HDMI1, so all I'm doing with the Harmony at the moment is input selection. I wanted to prove it worked with the direct inputs.

I have not explored how the RS10 interprets input commands during the warmup cycle. But that's something one can check with the RS10 remote. I hope someone here has already sussed that out and can report.


Not sure what you mean. I only switch while the power is on. I wait until I see a picture onscreen, and if I need to change the input, I use the Harmony--and it works nicely.


Yes, using an HDMI switch will solve the cumbersome PJ switching issue. Even though my new AV processor will allow HDMI switching, I will not use it because:
a) I only have 2 HDMI sources--the BD player and the DVR
b) The DVR is located inside the soffit near the PJ, so its output is easily connected to the PJ but not the processor. S/PDIF carries the best audio the DVR can output--no need for an HDMI run to the processor
c) the processor has no actual video processing, just switching, so I'll use the PJ to tweak the settings for each source unit and apply them based on which input is called.

Ok thanks. Stepping through the inputs would not be so bad if not for the couple second delay in response of each step

I'm guessing that that the PJ would not respond to the input change until it is warmed up, some 30 seconds or so after power on. I base that ont the fact that it does not store input change requests when stepping through. I have to wait until the PJ responds and press inlet again.


Sorry, I was not clear. I was thinking how the Harmony would respond if a long delay was programmed before input selection on power up and the remote was used to switch while the system was up. For example, when watching TV, would choosing the activity watch DVD, turn off the DVR, turn on the DVD and switch input, or would there be the delay before the input changed. I w would hope the remote is intelligent enough to only add the delay on power up.

Since I'm not buying a new AV processor anytime soon, (my Anthem does not have HDMI) I'm thinking the switch might be the best bet, although I may try just playing with the programming on the remote first.

With a universal there are direct access commands.

JVC has no more...period. Not saying you won't find stock left onhand at dealers, but JVC has no more.

The pro replacement will be announced later this week.

hei Jason:


I almost certain that your sales are restricted to the USA. It would be be a pleasure to make business with you, but I live in Brazil. I have an RS 10 pretty new, 49 hours, perfect. Despite of you selling or not selling projectors overseas, how does work this pro program?

I generally have restrictions put on my by manufacturers (all dealers do). Do you ever visit the states?

Jason:


To speak truly I've never been overseas. My brother just came from New york on a trip I was about to take with him but disconsidered. I've changed the projector recently, because the Mitts HC 7000 I had showed dust blobs and I already had problems with the hc 5000 (dust blobs also). I couldn't stand it. By the way I haven't sold the Hc 7000 yet, whith the optical block cleaned by a specialized store in my city.


Well I'm really enjoying LCOS, and the RS10 shows deeper blacks than the Mitts 7000, though I appreciated its picture a lot.


My room is pretty dark, not at cave. But all in dark blue colour, with curtains deeper blue, about 96% light controlled and a 106" high contrast motorized screen.


If I had to change my projector right now, certainly it would be for the hd 950 or 990, if the innovations are worth it.


I think pro division jvc will not keep these numbers for the american market, an they don't sell on line.


Since I heard a lot well about you, reading the posts in the forum, with sales of pre calibrated units that inspired me quite of confidence.


That's why I posted and wanted to know about the mentioned pro program. Is it a program in which one's projector is included in the upgrade?

Anyway, doing business or not, I will always read your posts. You got straight A's on the forum.

Thanks for the kind words. If you want to email me, I can see what can be done for you.

Jason:


It's me again. I misunderstood, due to fast reading, the post of a member that expects the pro replacement of JVC projectors with a program of Science Sales for those who want to upgrade to newer models. I mentioned in the post, if this program forecast the possibility ( in my case) to consider my new RS 10 as part of the payment. In the email I sent to you I detailed my aim at gettinhg the hd 950 or 990. Reading the referred post I concluded, however, that there's not such a plan, but a mistake on my part.


Sorry.

Sorry I think there is confusion. We don't take trades typically, especially for large buy ins like this.

I'm looking for a new PJ....

I want you opinion about if it's really worth the RS10//350 compared to the panasonic ptae3000 or the mitsu 6800/7000?

Is the lack of interpolation a negative point of RS10/350?

Thanks

leo

Thanks I'm gonna read now. But I ask about rS10/350 because I've got the $$$ for the Pana or similar, and I wanto to know if it's really worth paying the extra price and get the jvc.

New models are too expensive for me to buy...

I think if you took 100 people and stuck them into a room with both projectors (Panny and JVC), I'd bet 95% would choose the JVC (and this is from my experience, not just guessing). But, the JVC is more money...a good amount more. So that does come into play. I guess it ultimately comes down to what you want most...the best performance, or added features for a better price. Only you can answer as everyone is different.

My neighbor has the Panny. It was an "upgrade" to a 6 year old Runco LCD with a outboard scaler. He had nothing but trouble with the Runco and one day it just died and he decided enough was enough; no more $20K plus units.

I personally don't like the Panny that and would not buy it. In fact Jason talked me put of a Epson or Panny based on what my preferences were and he was right.

I was going to wait until after CEDIA to buy, but the clearance on the RS10 was just too good to pass up. I personally think the JVC is worth the premium (my wife does too) without the clearance price.

I could pick some nits and some things I'd like to improve, but overall I'm very happy with the JVC.

If I was buying now, I would wait until I could see what is out there after CEDIA. For the cost of a Panny plus a mount and some cables, the RS10 was a no brainer.

That's the beauty about projectors there getting better and better every year and cheaper too. Gone are the days of having to spend big $$.

Hey guys,

I can call myself a proud owner of an RS10 too now. I'm feeding it with a Panasonic DMP-BD80, projecting on a 2,80 m (110 inch) wide cinemascope screen.

While I'm pretty satisfied with the overall picture and especially DVD-scaling, I'm not that enthusiastic about the often praised high black level. No matter what medium or what scene, or if I use the "hide" button - I never come close to the real black of my screen frame. Could you have a look at the picture I took and tell me if this is normal for the RS10:



This is my first projector, so I don't have any comparison to other models.

I also have a question about anamorphic lenses.


This would only make sense if the film material on the BD is always stored with 1920 x 1080 pixels, regardless of the aspect ratio (i.e. distorted for everything above 16:9). But this would also mean that the projector would just need to pass through the "raw data". But you mentioned earlier that the projector would use it's own scaler to distort the image on the chip or chips by streching it verically. Can you help me solve this contradiction?

Thanks,
Hobbes

Welcome Sheriff Hobbes.

When you say that even with the 'hide' function engaged you can still 'see' your screen, this suggests to me that there is other light in your room. Either that or you are waiting a long time for your eyes to adjust to the very low light from the RS10 (the lens cover should have closed in the 'hide' mode, so only any small amount of light leakage from the casing should apply here).

When I got my HD350 (equal to the RS10 sans 12 volt trigger) I found I had to improve my room with regard to blocking any external light from adjacent rooms, windows, doors, etc. I also make sure that my equipment is set so that all the displays and LEDs are off where possible as they are near my screen and also light it up a surprising amount (not unlike a real cineam with it's green 'Exit' signs ). This allows a very deep fade to black, which seems to be your complaint. You will never get a complete 'black screen' with a lamp based PJ though. Only an older style CRT projector can achieve this and in the future LED or lazer lit PJs may be able to dim the light source completely in black out scenes, but not at the moment.

It is also important to set the brightness control correctly on this projector. If set even a notch or two too high, then black levels will be raised. You can use a DVE disc or even the free AVS709 disc from the calibration section of these forums to set it and other adjustments correctly.

Other things to consider are the room's effect on dark scene performance (not specifically mentioned in your question, but something to be aware of). This is where a dark scene has small amounts of bright light that reflects off the walls and ceiling (especially if you have a white ceiling/walls) and this reflection 'washes out' the dark parts of the image making them grey where they should be black. This tends to give the effect of 'flattening' the image removing the depth and even giving a 'fog' like effect to dark scenes. Applying dark material such as velvet at least in the area near to the screen can assist with this issue, as can painting the room a darker colour where possible/practical or even having a temporary 'curtain' each side of the screen, or similar, to use only when viewing films. It depends on how much you desire the 'best image' your PJ can produce, verses how much you want to turn your living room into a 'Bat Cave'.

I'm using the RS10 only after dark, so there's absolutely no light from other sources. But my walls are white. It's my living room so I don't want to paint it black.
But from my perspective the main problem is the remaining light from the projector, not the reflections from the walls. I have a red molton curtain over my screen which I also use to mask films < cinemascope.
Btw: the lens cover doesn't close in "hide" mode!

While I don't use the hide mode very much, I recall it allowed some residual light, and the door didn't close. Maybe I didn't wait long enough...

What I'm glad about is that I can make the black levels lower than a film projector in a real cinema. Maybe D-Cinema will allow a similar extension of black range, but it seems DLP isn't quite as good as LCOS in that respect, either. (My screen is Da-Lite HCCV, a very mild gray surface, in a totally dark room.)

I had the priviledge to see the $13k Samsung DLP PJ at Joe Kane's home theater, and it did not go as black as the RS10. That may have been as a result of calibration rather than capability, and if so, it means the RS10 is more than sufficient for correct film presentation, in terms of blackness. Between that and the color separations resulting from the Sammy's color wheel, on top of the cost, I'm one happy camper!

It's difficult to tell from a photograph, but it looks about right to me. If you have any light in the room, including light from the screen; and that light is sufficient to see anything other than the screen, the screen will always look lighter than the black velvet frame (because it is). Also, when you have a bright image against a black background, as in your screen shot, light scatter through the optical path will raise the black level.


What you have said seems correct to me. I'm guessing Mark may have meant to write "allows using the full chip brightness," instead of "resolution." I suppose it could be argued, though, that upscaling to 1080p could make the image seem sharper, in the same sense that upscaling a DVD to 1080p can make it seem sharper. Hopefully, Mark will comment.

I'll have to check my HD350, but I'm sure it did close in hide mode as this was the best way to darken my room for recalibrating my i1-LT probe when calibrating the greyscale. Next time I have my PJ on I'll double check.

If your room really is completely dark (even with white walls) the only other issue is the brightness setting, or perhaps your expectations.....

I checked last night and my HD350 definately closes the lens cover when put into 'hide mode'. Only a small amount of light comes from the PJ's case when in this mode and non out through the front, so it makes the screen as dark as the ambient light in the room allows.

Hi,

Any input from other RS10 users would be appreciated with regard to the following:

1. Image noise(fine dots that continuously come and go, ?mosquito noise) - especially in very dark scenes(e.g. National Treasure) but occasionally in bright images(Pride and Prejudice, 1995). Similar noise is seen in some HDTV channels. I'm coming from a Sony VPL-VW40 and I don't remember any noise issues like this.

2. DVD images seem very soft - I am using 1080p HDMI output from a Panasonic BD-30 Bluray player. Do I need a better upconverting player? Should I use 480i or 480p output instead?

3. Lens cover noise - much louder than lens shift or focus. Is this typical?

4. How much could the RS10 benefit from a video processor such as Anchor Bay/DVDO Edge in terms of noise reduction and/or DVD/HDTV sharpness?

I am most impressed by the on/off contrast and dark scene intra-image contrast of this projector. It is also quieter than the Sony, a nice surprise. The RS10 is probably a keeper.

Thanks,

Warren

The lens cover noise is normal.

Have you tried using the Detail and Edge Enhancement controls? I find they can add a degree of snap for DVD and HDTV without side effects if used judiciously.

Thanks, Roger, I'll try those adjustments.

Warren

Hello,,,the geek squad is coming back to re-caliberate my HD350.

I was wondering,,,What HDMI control should the caliberation be done under,,Auto or enhanced?

Also, the service menu does not need to be accessed correct?