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Official JVC RS10/HD350 Owners Thread! - Page 55

post #1621 of 2036
Thank you both for the replies on this...

Also what is the proper screen ration to be looking at in this case -- there will be no masking system -- and this system is for my soon to be father in law who will just be using the room for movies essentially. Is the 1.78:1 the way to go since that is the 16:9 or are one of the other ratios more appropriate...
post #1622 of 2036
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chopin_Guy View Post

Thank you both for the replies on this...

Also what is the proper screen ratio to be looking at in this case -- there will be no masking system -- and this system is for my soon to be father in law who will just be using the room for movies essentially. Is the 1.78:1 the way to go since that is the 16:9 or are one of the other ratios more appropriate...

Most movies tend to be either the 1.85 or 2.40 (2.35) widescreen ratio. So you'll need to handle both. Either screen ratio will do it, but one will require adjusting the lens (2.40), the other (1.78) will not--it will be as simple as drop in the disc and hit play.

If your STBFIL (soon to be father in law ) is interested in ease of use, I'd go for the 1.78 screen. Everything the PJ can throw will hit the screen, and no need to mess with the lens at all. And this includes all the disc menus, as well as Batman, The Dark Knight, which alternates scenes in 2.40 and 1.78.

Your seating distance of 12' from the Carada 118" 16x9 screen gives a viewing angle of 39 degrees. Perfect. And room for the speakers flanking either side. The 10' ceiling height means you can have the bottom of the screen off the floor enough to park the center speaker under it. Rule of thumb, from eyeballs to top of screen, the angle should not exceed 15 degrees.
post #1623 of 2036
Rodger,

Thanks for the helpful information -- and was kind of what I had in mind as well. He is most definitely interested in keeping things simple -- this room will be a huge step up in every regard so I know they will be blown away. The rest of the system will be a 7.2 setup of the SVS M-Series (towers up front and bookshelfs for the 4 surround channels) with 2 PB13-Ultras -- with a 4810ci powering surrounds and seperate amplification for the front 3 channels. Should be fun...
post #1624 of 2036
Roger,

Since we're on the subject.. I thought there were lenses available that supported constant height. Which would add bars to the left/right of the image for 1.85 content and fill the entire screen for 2.35 content. I may be wrong about that but I recall this mentioned in the past regarding certain model lenses.
post #1625 of 2036
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chopin_Guy View Post

The rest of the system will be a 7.2 setup of the SVS M-Series (towers up front and bookshelfs for the 4 surround channels) with 2 PB13-Ultras -- with a 4810ci powering surrounds and seperate amplification for the front 3 channels. Should be fun...

This will definitely be a great home theater!

And don't worry about the unmasked areas of the screen. The contrast of the JVC is high enough to keep those areas quite dark. Not an issue.
post #1626 of 2036
Quote:
Originally Posted by adidino View Post

Roger,

Since we're on the subject.. I thought there were lenses available that supported constant height. Which would add bars to the left/right of the image for 1.85 content and fill the entire screen for 2.35 content. I may be wrong about that but I recall this mentioned in the past regarding certain model lenses.

I've not seen that, but I'm not well versed in add-on lenses. Never had one, never will.
post #1627 of 2036
Quote:
Originally Posted by adidino View Post

Roger,

Since we're on the subject.. I thought there were lenses available that supported constant height. Which would add bars to the left/right of the image for 1.85 content and fill the entire screen for 2.35 content. I may be wrong about that but I recall this mentioned in the past regarding certain model lenses.

Adding an anamorphic lens with a sled allows this: With lens in place (and appropriate vertical stretch applied in a scaler/projector's menu/amp) the image results in 2.35:1 at the screen using the whole panel of the projector. Sliding the lens out of the way (and cancelling the electronic vertical stretch in the scaler/etc) results in a 16:9 image of the same height on the screen.

I'm assuming from your post that you weren't fully aware of how these work, but if you meant something else I beg your pardon.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Dressler View Post

I've not seen that, but I'm not well versed in add-on lenses. Never had one, never will.

Actually my HD350 seems to give me a better 2.35:1 image with a lens (plus external scaler) than simply zoomed in my setup: I bought an Isco II used for a good price with the intention of trying it out and selling it on if I wasn't impressed. As you can see from my signature I've kept it. There's plenty of heated debate over on the CIH section, but in the end rather than study screenshots and read the many posts arguing for and against, I just bit the bullet and tried one out, so never say never...
post #1628 of 2036
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S View Post

Adding an anamorphic lens with a sled allows this: With lens in place (and appropriate vertical stretch applied in a scaler/projector's menu/amp) the image results in 2.35:1 at the screen using the whole panel of the projector. Sliding the lens out of the way (and cancelling the electronic vertical stretch in the scaler/etc) results in a 16:9 image of the same height on the screen.

I'm assuming from your post that you weren't fully aware of how these work, but if you meant something else I beg your pardon.

I wasn't sure how it works but I have been debating going this route. How about movies like batman where the aspect changes in certain scenes?
post #1629 of 2036
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S View Post

Actually my HD350 seems to give me a better 2.35:1 image with a lens (plus external scaler) than simply zoomed in my setup: I bought an Isco II used for a good price with the intention of trying it out and selling it on if I wasn't impressed. As you can see from my signature I've kept it. There's plenty of heated debate over on the CIH section, but in the end rather than study screenshots and read the many posts arguing for and against, I just bit the bullet and tried one out, so never say never...

I appreciate your post. I did not mean to imply by my emphatic "never will" comment that I do not think they offer useful options for folks. I'm just weighing it in the context of me being more biased to the sound side of the equation than the picture. The room is used 90% for music, 10% for movies. So I went with the RS-10 vs the RS-20, for example. But I think the results are superb nonetheless.

Is brightness the main benefit of adding the lens?
post #1630 of 2036
Quote:
Originally Posted by adidino View Post

I wasn't sure how it works but I have been debating going this route. How about movies like batman where the aspect changes in certain scenes?

To be fair this is where the lens option can fall down, but TBH as the resulting image simply remains at 2.35:1 (the top and bottom of the Imax scenes would be cropped by the vertical stretch) you might not be too bothered. I'm not a Batman fan myself (I know that's considered a hanging offence here, but never mind ) nor the other animated film that was produced this way. I did once watch 'Valkerie' (1.85:1 AR) with the stretch mode engaged (so I viewed it in 2.35:1) and was non the wiser until after the event.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Dressler View Post

I appreciate your post. I did not mean to imply by my emphatic "never will" comment that I do not think they offer useful options for folks. I'm just weighing it in the context of me being more biased to the sound side of the equation than the picture. The room is used 90% for music, 10% for movies. So I went with the RS-10 vs the RS-20, for example. But I think the results are superb nonetheless.

Is brightness the main benefit of adding the lens?

No worries Roger, we all have different priorities on here: I recently 'downgraded' to an older (but quality) Arcam AV9 processor to get better stereo results and gave up full HD sound (though 'core' DTS actually sounds better than my old 'full HD' receiver did, so go figure). Some might think I was daft for doing this, but it works for me. At your % viewing/listening I can understand your priorities, I actually home demo'd a HD750 against the HD350 (= RS20 against RS10) I bought and found that my room (at the time) limited the differences making the extra cost unjustifiable to me. Ironically, now my room is further improved I'd have got more benefit from the dearer model, so I plan to buy a used/end of line HD950 one day...

Brightness is one benefit, but with the HDxxx models you can reduce the iris and retain the same brightness overall, but gain extra contrast: Less iris gives more contrast. Also you tend to get more contrast at the minimum zoom end compared to the zoom required if 'zooming', so if the image is bright enough with a lens you might get more contrast due to these two factors. I used to find that I got a 'ring' of light on my ceiling above my head from some kind of overspill in the light engine which the lens removed, but more as a side effect caused by the housing masking it. The final side effect being that the black bars aren't there at all (which may not really matter if your screen wall is surrounded by very black material), which makes my screen surround completely black. More into the realm of placebo effect perhaps, but even though I couldn't 'see' the pixels before I bought the lens, the image just seems to be more 'solid' rather like when you see a smaller TV as the image is more dense. The biggest tell is when I remove the lens and go back to zooming...it just doesn't seem as good, which is the important bit for me.

There are pages of threads discussing this in the CIH section and they can get really heated, so probably best to leave it there.
post #1631 of 2036
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S View Post

TThe biggest tell is when I remove the lens and go back to zooming...it just doesn't seem as good, which is the important bit for me.

There are pages of threads discussing this in the CIH section and they can get really heated, so probably best to leave it there.

Thanks much for the detailed reply. Your first-hand comparisons make a good case.

Regards, Roger
post #1632 of 2036
Selling my JVC RS10 in Orange County, CA. $2200. PM me!
(sorry to hijack but thought it might be relevent)
post #1633 of 2036
Quote:
Originally Posted by GardenVariety View Post

Selling my JVC RS10 in Orange County, CA. $2200. PM me!
(sorry to hijack but thought it might be relevent)

More relevant in the classified section. AVS like to get paid for ads.
post #1634 of 2036
So guys, would you say that there are major differences in the PQ of the RS10 vs the newer RS15 ? Im looking to upgrade my current projector (Viewsonic Pro8100) and cant jusify paying more than 3000$.

I can get a lot of different great models in this price range , like the W6000, 8500UB or a used RS10 (Im not sure if there's still availble new). Or I can try to convince myself to get the more expensive RS15.

I'm torn here. What do you guys think ?
post #1635 of 2036
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackSoul View Post

So guys, would you say that there are major differences in the PQ of the RS10 vs the newer RS15 ? Im looking to upgrade my current projector (Viewsonic Pro8100) and cant jusify paying more than 3000$.

I can get a lot of different great models in this price range , like the W6000, 8500UB or a used RS10 (Im not sure if there's still availble new). Or I can try to convince myself to get the more expensive RS15.

I'm torn here. What do you guys think ?

I'm in the exact same situation and I'm buying a RS10 used.
post #1636 of 2036
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackSoul View Post

I'm torn here. What do you guys think ?

There's really not much difference except for the frame interpolation, which a lot of people don't like anyway. But keep in mind the warranty situation if you buy used. Is is transferable? I don't know. But JVC projectors don't break very often either.
post #1637 of 2036
On the last two movies I watched, out of about 8 total since I got the pj, the RS10 has shut itself off for no apparent reason.

On the one before the last one, it did it twice, once after about an hour into the movie, and then again a half hour later.

Last night it did it about 1 1/2 hours into the movie.

By the time I finish cussing and walk back to where the pj is in my bedroom closet behind the back wall, it restarts normally with the power on command.

I don't see how it could be overheating; I'm running on low lamp with the fan on high, on top of having a 100 cfm squirrel cage blower sucking through the exhaust vent.

The exhaust air and the case barely get warm.

Any similar experiences and what was the resolution?
post #1638 of 2036
Quote:
Originally Posted by noah katz View Post

On the last two movies I watched, out of about 8 total since I got the pj, the RS10 has shut itself off for no apparent reason.

On the one before the last one, it did it twice, once after about an hour into the movie, and then again a half hour later.

The most common reason for this is that the Off Timer has accidentally been left on, but this means the PJ would normally switch off in 1 Hour increments.

If the PJ is switching off because it has detected a problem, it will give an indication of the cause by flashing different sequences of the lights on the top. Have you noticed if these are flashing? If so, there is a chart in the Instruction Book which will point you to the cause. If that doesn't give any clues, an engineer can connect up the Service Software which will read out any fault codes to give a more accurate indication of the cause.
post #1639 of 2036
It's also probably a good idea to check the air filter. If it's really dirty, it could be choking off the air supply into the projector.
post #1640 of 2036
"If the PJ is switching off because it has detected a problem, it will give an indication of the cause by flashing different sequences of the lights on the top."

IIRC, the first time it happened the red light was flashing, and the other two times it was solid, i.e., in standby mode.

"It's also probably a good idea to check the air filter."

The pj has only 15 hours on it, and all the extra air that the blower provides is being drawn through automotive air filters on the inlets side.

I'll check the timer too, but I don't know how that could have got set.
post #1641 of 2036
It was the timer - set to 1 hr!

No idea how that could have happened.
post #1642 of 2036
Hi Noah -- glad you found the problem to be a "gremlin error."

Thanks for tip on this projector. I love mine and bought a VideoEQ to provide a CMS remedy for the over-saturated gamut (and to also achieve a near perfect grayscale).

My only complaint is that the RS10 remote is a big step down from the RS1 remote. Funny that JVC went top drawer on the projector (gold trim, auto lens cover, etc.) but went cheap on the user's primary interface.
post #1643 of 2036
Quote:
Originally Posted by noah katz View Post

It was the timer - set to 1 hr!

No idea how that could have happened.

I've asked for a popup message on future model to inform the user that the timer is set and that the PJ will be switching off in one minute. If they go for it, this should avoid similar issues in future.
post #1644 of 2036
I am nearing the one year mark in a week. My projector only plays 1080P material on a 120 screen at max opening.
If you bring up the double green lines the problem is this. On the left side, the first two lines have a magenta color bar running up and down the left side. When I dont have any material and just the blue screen. I only see blue. When I play a movie, about 2 inches of the screen is magenta on the left, again runs verticle. I tried to zoom in and out and the bar moved with the size of the screen.
Idea's, suggestions? Also do we have a 1 or 2 year warranty on it?
LL
post #1645 of 2036
When would be the best time to change the globe on these unit ? How many hrs do you think ?
post #1646 of 2036
I have been through my manual on the HD350. I have degredation on the outer left edge, as seen in my post 2 posts ago. Is masking related to bulb deterieration? To try to get a little more life out of it? Could my color bar on the left be related to the bulb?
post #1647 of 2036
Quote:
Originally Posted by Franin View Post

When would be the best time to change the globe on these unit ? How many hrs do you think ?

When it gets too dim. Sorry to be obtuse, but that really is the answer. It varies from installation to installation and even bulb to bulb. I've got a 10' wide 1.1 gain 16:9 screen and I find it remarkable that my RS20 is still plenty bright at 500 hours. I thought I was going to have to change early and often, but I seem to have a long lived bulb.
post #1648 of 2036
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr_Mark View Post

On the left side, the first two lines have a magenta color bar running up and down the left side.

Just a guess, but it might be a diffusion artifact from something out of alignment in the light path. The fact that it runs straight up and down suggests a mirror or less likely a panel.

Neither is good. Hopefully it is something else like your HDMI cable, video switcher, video processor, source device (DVD or BD), etc.

A more focused photo showing pixel structure would help in making better guesses.
post #1649 of 2036
Quote:
Originally Posted by erkq View Post


When it gets too dim. Sorry to be obtuse, but that really is the answer. It varies from installation to installation and even bulb to bulb. I've got a 10' wide 1.1 gain 16:9 screen and I find it remarkable that my RS20 is still plenty bright at 500 hours. I thought I was going to have to change early and often, but I seem to have a long lived bulb.

I'm at 600+ hours and still great but I was told by the salesman around 1000 hours. I wanted to confirm but your right when it gets dim.
post #1650 of 2036
I searched the thread and found no information. The other day I got a "lamp replacement" window pop up on screen. As well the light on the unit itself also glows orange. According to the menu I only have 1900 hours on it. I though it was rated to 3000 hours? Will I cause irreparable damage if I continue to watch while I order a new bulb? Is this message correct or just an error?
Thanks
Mike
PS: I assume this is something I can do myself..replace the bulb that is!!??
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