Official JVC RS10/HD350 Owners Thread! - Page 57

There's no need for a firmware upgrade to achieve this: You can go into the service menu and change the aperture for whichever iris setting (preset) is currently in use. I've changed mine to give -12, -9 and -6 for the three user menu 'preset' iris settings. As the lamp ages I'll move them up a click. I find -6 and above too bright for me anyway at the moment (500hours and a 112" wide scope screen 1.5 gain).

I find it extremely hard to believe that closing the Iris to -15 will reduce the white level ~58% and reduce the black level ~71%. 203 Lumens @43800:1 = .0046 lumens. On a 110", 16:9 screen, 1.0 gain, 36sqft = 5.64fL white and .000129fL. In terms of Astronomy, a 22 magnitude/square arcsecond night sky is at a level where the human eye cannot see any of its surroundings (the person standing next to you).... The 20 magnitude dark sky can illuminate surroundings at ~.0034fL and 23 magnatude is ~.00034fL. I cannot believe that the projector can achieve this claimed performance.

I've often suspected the reported performance of some measuring equipment at the low/no end of the light level. Its like trusting manufacturer marketing figures.

I misspoke; this was the "upgrade" to which I was referring. While I suspect setting "1" of 3 is already the smallest the aperture one can achieve in the RS10, the extra flexibility will be nice.

I don't know what to say. This finding is common in "complete" reviews by experienced technicians. Here are Jason's findings when measuring the current RS25 and RS15. Note his observation: "In order to achieve that contrast, certain parameters need to be met (such as long throw, and iris closed)". His results show the extent to which that is true.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...9#post17073079

Many others such as Greg Rogers and Cine4Home have written about this. I have no way to verify, I am not a technician, so all I can do is engage in a quote-fest, probably not very helpful.

Got an RS 10 last week, wow! What an experience. First projector, came from an old mitsubishi 57 rear projection big box. I painted a 128" screen on my wall with crappy old white paint and looks great. I showed a blue ray aquarium DVD and it dang near looked like a real aquarium.

How much better does it get with a screen (clarity/brightness?)

What screen recommendations are there for same approx size screen?

Room is fairly light controlled basement, no windows except 50' in rear walkout sliders, sitting right now about 15' back, proj maybe 16'. That can be adjusted before permanent ceiling mount. Mostly Blueray watching but definitely HD TV especially sports (Vikings, Favre is back, again, LOL)

What do I use to clean the lens? I see dust and a little smudge.

Thx for your input in advance.

You've got lots of options for a screen at that size. You could drive anything from a unity gain on up. So you can consider an AT screen if you want. Need to hide the speakers? Want full size identical LCR speakers placed at the same height? Want a screen wider than would fit with speakers at either side?

Maybe for sports you should consider a higher gain screen with some ambient light rejection. At the other end of the gain continuum from the AT screens is the Da-Lite HP. If it would work for you setup you'd have a really bright pic for sports.

Like so many things it's all a trade-off.

My RS10 showed up before I painted the walls so I projected it onto white primer. Great pic. I then put screen samples up and MY primer was identical to the Carada BW 1.4 screen sample. Looked great! All the screen samples looked great. Gray, 1.0, 1.4...I ended up going with a 2.8 high power screen because I wanted a bright punchy pic and I was paranoid about the projector dimming. That was a year and a half ago and I still love the screen.

Can we set the color range? I have a SA8300HD and the black levels look gray or washed out when I watch TV on it, however when I watch Blu-Rays or DVD's on my blu-ray player they are much blacker. I have this issue with my Pioneer plasma and the range has to be set to 16-235 for black levels to look right with a SA8300HD.

Any tips with SA8300HD? Thanks.

BigZAJ - The RS10 has an HDMI setting which, if I remember correctly, can be set to standard, enhanced or auto. Don't use auto. I had the same problem you have and I think I set it to standard for the TV. Others have mentioned it in this thread. Works like a charm.

Thanks, that was totally the issue! Looks awesome.

Hi,

after being a happy camper with my RS10 for around 7 months, I just noticed a slight 'red cloud' on the right side from top to button. Its roughly as wide as the standard windows scroll bar and is visible independent of input or user settings. It is only there in 16:9 not in 4:3. I even tried my spare bulb, but same effect there. Nothing obvious in the light path, mirrors or lense. Here some pictures:

Standard windows desktop:


zoom in


projector test mode


zoom in



Somehow that doesn't look healthy ... And while it's not really noticeable while watching a movie, knowing that it is there, is annoying enough!

Hope someone here has a good idea.

Thanks
wolf

thinkin about the dalite 133" 2.8 hp screen to pair with my RS10. Room is fairly narrow so extreme viewing angle wont be more than 25 deg either side of center. Also ceilings are 7.5ft. If I mounted the RS10 near the ceiling it'd only be 2-3 ft above eye level. Is that gonna be an issue with a high gain screen like that? I read you should have the projector at about eye level for the light reflectance?

Two or three feet off axis will knock the punch down a little bit, but it will still be much brighter than traditional unity gain screens. Another option for some rooms is a centered rear wall shelf closer to eye level. The "new" 2.4 gain High Power material (you can specify either) isn't as bright on axis, but also doesn't drop off as fast as you go off axis. Either is a great screen fabric.

Kevin

Hmmm how do i decide between the two? I thought I read people preferred the 2.8 material.

anything will be better than my 2 coats of white paint on the wall however

Yes I have the same. It may have always been there u just haven't noticed? Is that possible? I bought my unit with this defect and therefore got it a lot lot cheaper. Mmmm... I just project slightly larger on the screen

I think the root cause is one of the panels having a defect or something. :-/

I use a 120" 2.8 HP with my RS10 and love it. I get around 2.1 gain in my sweet spot seating. Gain goes all the way down to 1.1 in side seating, but the picture still looks nice and uniform (just not as bright).

I highly recommend you check out the HP thread for more details ...
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...773065&page=93

Also, use FLBoy's gain calculator to see what kind of gain you'll get with your specific setup ...
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=966057

Thanks, I ordered an hp screen and look forward to it.

I just got a BJC 35' hdmi cable but it gives me an error. I was using two cheaper monoprice cables patched together with a simple connector and they worked fine. Are there settings to change on receiver or projector for different hdmi cables? I'd think a cable is a cable and should be plug and play? no?

yamaha rx2600 receiver 1080i and rs10 projector.

Just gone for an jvc hd350 in white one of the last avaliable in the uk can't wait upgrading from my epson tw2000 hope its worth it.

Welcome to the club, but unless you really have to have a white one, Richer Sounds are now selling them new for about 60% of what I paid 18 months ago.

I posted screenshots of this issue, with an earlier model, a couple of years back.

I believe its one of the issues that a new panel design will eradicate.

kelvin got the white one slighty cheaper than richer sounds price and from a proper installer one problem that i have just thought of though, forgot it doesn't have trigger switch but my z7 does does any one know how easy it is to use my amp for switching my motorized screen?

That's a good deal then as the white ones always seemed to be a bit dearer for some reason. You should be able to set your amp so that when using a particular input the 12 volt trigger turns 'ON', though this might mean you can't listen to BluRays (for example) when just watching TV. Maybe you could use a second input such as coax for TV BluRay watching (in reduced non HD sound of course).

To get the best out of your HD350 you should paint your room black...which kind of makes the white HD350 stand out. I could do with one myself as it now stands on top of a bookcase at the back of the room and white would be less visible to anyone looking into my room.

Cheers kelvin i was hoping i could connect the trigger cable to one of the outputs on the amp and assign it to the dvd player ive got a switch on the wall to isolate the power to my projector and screen so even if it is called for when i want to watch blueray's through my plasma it won't be triggered as there is no supply to the screen.

Since I'm watching the HD250 thread and I'm interested about sharpness, I figured I'd ask some RS10 owners a few questions about sharpness and other issues for comparisons sake.

Can owners give a relative opinion on the sharpness of your RS10 / HD350? How does it compare to other JVC projectors? Other projectors? Are there any owners who have compared to the Mitsubishi projectors? What is the RS10 sharper than, and what is sharper than the RS10? That sort of thing. I'm not a DLP guy, so while I understand folks will indicate DLP projectors in their comparisons, I'm mostly curious about the other LCD/LCOS projectors.

I am also interested in the colour decoding of the new HD250, but I suspect, from my reading, that the lens, panels and overall optics of the HD250 should be more similar to the RS10/HD350 whereas the colour could differ simply due to a change in the electronics of the 250. I could be wrong, but from what I understood, there isn't a newer lens with the HD250.

Another question. Is anybody using their RS10 with a prismasonic lens? What is your screen size, throw ratio and throw distance?

What clearance is required for this projector on the back and sides? Where is the intake and hot air exhaust?

thanks

I'm starting to sound like a broken record here, but it's already been confirmed by GaryB (JVC UK) that the HD250 is just a HD350(RS10) in a matt black box. This means everything you need to know is in this thread...somewhere.

Don't you mean an RS15? Doesn't the RS40 have FI? And, isn't it supposed to be better than the RS15's

No I don't. GaryB has specifically said that the HD250 is the same internally as the old HD350(RS10). The HD550 is the equivalent of the RS15 so I take it that the HD250 will not have FI and definately not have a CMS (or even a rec709 mode).

The RS40 is a different model to the one I'm talking about and it likely is better than the RS15 as it's more in line with the RS25 (give or take a CMS depending who you talk to ).

Yep, I imagine it is identical or close to it, and that is why I'm here. Why wait for impressions of the HD 250 when RS 10 experience is already out there.

I'll search this thread. I've searched for sharpness but haven't come up with much yet. I need more comparison info....which leads me to my next question:

If there's anybody in the Toronto/Pickering area with an RS10 / HD350 who wouldn't mind demo'ing their projector, please let me know? I can provide a VP50 and/or H1000 prismasonic lens for experimental use, and/or bring some beer in exchange for the privilege of viewing your fine JVC RS10 projector.

thanks,

Vertical and Horizontal Shift.

Is there a way to tell where you are on these? There doesn't seem to be any metric or scale. How would I know when I am dead center or zero shift on these? Thanks.