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Official JVC RS10/HD350 Owners Thread!

350K views 2K replies 361 participants last post by  bazulkosergey 
#1 ·




JVC LINKS
Product page at Pro.JVC.com
Link To Brochure for the RS10 and RS20
RS10 Manual.PDF
RS-232C and Infrared

Remote Control Guide & HEX Codes (Thanks GaryB-UK)

RS10 Frimware update. This update improves IR sensor detection.
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REVIEWS
A first Look by Jason Turk of AVS
Art @ ProjectorReviews.com
CNET UK
Cine4Home Preview of the RS20 with some info from a Pre-Production RS10
Review by Phil Hinton of AVforums
Phil Hinton Video Review
Review by John Archer of TrustedReviews

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SPECS
-Enhanced 0.7-inch Full HD D-ILA devices and improved optical engine deliver the

native contrast ratio of 32,000:1 (maximum, depends on aperture setting)

for deep, true black level without a trace of gray.

-Compatibility with the latest HDMI version 1.3 (Deep Color) specifications means that this

projector can reproduce billions of colors and subtler shades of grayscale.

-Full 2.35:1 wide cinematic movie enjoyment via built in vertical stretch capability.

-Ultra quiet 19dB operation (in low lamp mode)

-Two trigger functions (screen or anamorphic lens)

-6 Point Custom Color Management.

-High-performance 2x zoom lens with motorized focus and zoom, enables flexible set-up.

-HQV Reon-VX video processor by Silicon Optix

-1000 lumen brightness with a three step fixed aperture

-Resolution 1920 x 1080 pixels

-Projection size 60 - 200 inches

-Customized gamma control on-screen

-Sleek black cabinet with black non-reflective front panel

-Wide Lens shift function (V: 80%, H: 34%)

-High-performance 2x motorized zoom lens and focus (f=21.4mm — 42.8mm, F=3.2 — 4)

-Easy-to-use self-illuminated remote control

-User Friendly Image adjustment menu

-Built in test patterns

-6 Point Custom Color Management

-Customized gamma control on-screen

-Outstanding Gray-scale reproduction

-Dual 1080p Capable HDMI (ver. 1.3) Digital Inputs

-HD Component Video Input

-RS-232C

-S-Video Input

-Composite Video Input

-D-sub 15-pin PC Input

-Lamp 200W UHP

-480i/p,576i/p,720p 60/50,1080i 60/50,1080 24p/60p/50p

-AC 110 - 240V,50/60 Hz

-Power consumption 280W (Stand-by mode:1W)

-Dimensions (W x H x D) 14-3/8" x 6-1/2" x 18 7/8" (365 x 166 x 478mm)

-Weight 11.0kg , 24.3 lbs
 
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1
#2 ·
FAQ's
Does it have the Bright Corners issue of the RS1/2:

-Seem to be a non-issue with the rs10's__________________________________________________________
Will it work with my Anamorphic Lens?

-You might need to alter your throw ratio if you were at the low end.
PRISMASONIC H-FE1500R It seems to need a 1.95 or greater throw ratio.
PANAMORPH UH380 confirmed to be working with a throw as low as a 1.57.
__________________________________________________________
Can it do the scaling for 2:35 Cinemascope setups?

-Yes its has a V-Stretch mode.
__________________________________________________________
How can I access the service menu?

Up/down/right/left/enter (type it fast) on the projector (not in remote).
WARNING Dont mess with service menu unles you know what you are doing!!
__________________________________________________________
Are there discrete codes for V-Stretch Etc.?

It seems the RS1 and RS2 codes work with the RS10. So until all the Universal Remote compans add the rs10/20 the the database Those will work.

UPDATE: Here are the Discrete codes for the V-Stretch. v-stretch on: 0x37 0x33 0x32 0x33 (ASCII: 73 23)
v-stretch off: 0x37 0x33 0x32 0x34 (ASCII: 73 24)
__________________________________________________________
Is there any way to adjust the iris presets in the service menu?

-No info yet.
__________________________________________________________
Does the RS10 use the same lens as the more expensive RS20?

-Yes (until someone informs otherwise)



************************************************************
TWEAKS
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Turk /forum/post/15217591


Good news. After more playing, with the iris engaged I got over 33000:1 contrast! Granted the light output dropped to just shy of 400 lumens, but still....quite impressive!...standard lamp mode, but yes iris 1. Iris 3 is where I got ~16000:1 and 968 lumens
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KNOWN ISSUES
-Recessed Lens makes it a bit more tricky to use an anamorphic lens.

-"Oversaturated" primary colors.
 
#9 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Turk /forum/post/15216200


Shading is SUBERB...hardly anything to speak of. So far of the 1/2 dozen units I have tested...perfect in regards to bright corners (there are none at all).

Can't wait.
 
#11 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Turk /forum/post/15217128


Look at that mac daddy packing job...who did that?

If only she will perform as good as she was packed! (jigesh, that didnt sound right did it?)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Turk /forum/post/15217128


The colors were, well, oversaturated (see charts below). This is similar to the previous RS series. I was able to tame them down a decent amount with the basic color control (other chart). Unfortunately the RS10 does not have a full CMS, like its bigger brother the RS20. But, still, after basic adjustment that were very acceptable. (NOTE: There are some adverse affects to do this adjustment, but I found that the setting was a good compromise).

Any hints for us regulars who have no idea on what to adjust to do what you did?



My nanny was wrong..an ovenight envelope was here when I got home...I was so PISSED. 1 min later..BAM! UPS shows up



I am going to test my Prismasonic with it now...
 
#16 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Turk /forum/post/15217591


Good news. After more playing, with the iris engaged I got over 33000:1 contrast! Granted the light output dropped to just shy of 400 lumens, but still....quite impressive!

Would that be in high lamp with the iris on 1?
 
#17 ·
Actually standard lamp mode, but yes iris 1. Iris 3 is where I got ~16000:1 and 968 lumens (which is about where it should be as it is rated about 17000:1 native and 1000 lumens).


I didn't get a chance to play with iris 2 to see the compromise, but I will when I have more time.
 
#19 ·
I have checked over about 1/2 dozen as I said. I have rated ALL 5/5 for bright corners (meaning as good as it gets...and with RS1/2's I rarely gave more than a 4/5). For uniformity I rarely did more than a 4/5 as well, once in a while a 4.5/5 (with the 1 and 2). With the RS10's so far all have gotten 4.5/5 and I only hastened to give 5/5's since I am sure if I actually measured them I would bet there would be some slight variation across the field, but to the eye it was undetectable.
 
#20 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Turk /forum/post/15218089


I have checked over about 1/2 dozen as I said. I have rated ALL 5/5 for bright corners (meaning as good as it gets...and with RS1/2's I rarely gave more than a 4/5). For uniformity I rarely did more than a 4/5 as well, once in a while a 4.5/5 (with the 1 and 2). With the RS10's so far all have gotten 4.5/5 and I only hastened to give 5/5's since I am sure if I actually measured them I would bet there would be some slight variation across the field, but to the eye it was undetectable.

Mine is mint all over the board. Great uniformity, NO bright corners (THANK YOU!!!) and my convergence is almost perfect (green is off .33 of a pixel).

I might just be in NEW gear mode but the image has much more punch and depth than my RS1.



Here is a quick screenshot and my messy mount job before I do any adjustments.

 
#21 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Turk /forum/post/15217591


Good news. After more playing, with the iris engaged I got over 33000:1 contrast! Granted the light output dropped to just shy of 400 lumens, but still....quite impressive!

That'll be about 45 ftL on my new screen. I think I can live with that.
(No, I don't have room for a truly big screen!)


W3bby - by the way, you want discrete codes. Discreet codes would not let themselves be heard.
 
#22 ·
OK here is a strange but not so strange question.



OK So I need a longer throw ratio for my existing prismasonic lens to work. I am at 1.8 Throw Ratio and since it has the recessed lens it wont work. When I zoom to make the image smaller eventually it works. Is there a mathmatical way to know how far back I need to go to get that size (the zoom that works with my lens)to fill the screen?

I have no help and cant do physical tests holding the PJ and the lens @ 8ft in the air!
 
#24 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by W3bbY /forum/post/15220120


How I am now is...170" lens to screen. 115x47.5 in 2.37 and 90 height for 16:9. I sit 165" away. Thats a TR of 1.88.

Yikes, now you have me panicked. When you say it doesn't work, are you getting vignetting? I am planning on using a Panamorph UH380 (already purchased and in hand) at a throw ratio of 1.65. I know that Panamorph has a wider aperature, but I may be in serious trouble. That is going to be one expensive paperweight.
 
#25 ·
This new "auto" lens cap is not our friend because it prohibits getting close enough to the JVC's outer lens element for our Anamorphic lens.

I just measured my U-100's 'in' aperture and it's only 2.3/4" diag and I'm pretty sure your's has a larger entrance. Can't help you with an easy way to find out where to place the pj. Maybe some sort of cart with wheels would help if your doing it your self.


This is the only issue I've been worried about. Jason was going to give some heads up on this but guess he forgot..
 
#26 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyR /forum/post/15220254


This new "auto" lens cap is not our friend because it prohibits getting close enough to the JVC's outer lens element for our Anamorphic lens.

I just measured my U-100's 'in' aperture and it's only 2.3/4" diag and I'm pretty sure your's has a larger entrance. Can't help you with an easy way to find out where to place the pj. Maybe some sort of cart with wheels would help if your doing it your self.


This is the only issue I've been worried about. Jason was going to give some heads up on this but guess he forgot..

UH380 is 3.25" across and 4 1/3" diagonal. Doesn't seem much bigger so could be trouble.
 
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